2004 dodge ram 1500, python 574

Well i have searched here, dodgeforum and several other sources and have not found what im looking for. I have found all of the install information and even recieved direct information from a metra rep. Hopefully someone here can help me fill in the blanks.
I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7l V8 5-Speed Manual Trans (Quad Cab)
I intend on installing a Python 574 Remote STart/Security System. I am questioning myself on the Resistors and Relays needed to make the door locks work. And everything with a question mark in the images i will attatch.


Thanks for any help you can give me,
Sean

Check the guide for the iDatalink ALCA , maybe that will help you out.

https://idatalink.com/search/index/model/5088

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Sean McAuliffe
Sales Rep.
Installation Distributors

That really doesnt answer my question. I Dont understand what im supposed to do with the information you have given me sean. Sorry!

what bypass module are you using?

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Sean McAuliffe
Sales Rep.
Installation Distributors

i originally wasnt planning on using one. but after more research i ordered the 456c directed. Hopefully that will work. But im still having trouble locating where all the wires with a ????? hook up to.

You don't need to know all of that information if you use an ADS-AL CA bypass module is what my point was. If you use the ALCA, the guide gives you all of the information you need to know and it is a much much much simpler install than trying to do all the convenience features manually.

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Sean McAuliffe
Sales Rep.
Installation Distributors

Ahh ok. See i dont need the immobilizer because i dont have the chip key. But do need the door lock feature working. If this doesnt work ill try the idata one.

ah gotcha.

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Sean McAuliffe
Sales Rep.
Installation Distributors

I'll go through the wires one at a time. In the install manual, it should also give you a run down of each wire. Make sure to test every wire with a DMM... don't just go off the wire chart. It can be wrong!!!

Orange   ground when armed   This wire provides a 200ma ground signal when the alarm is armed to run additional LEDs, window roll up modules, etc. It is normally not used.

Pink/white   (-) 200ma ignition/flex relay control output   This is a secondary (-) 200ma output that is activated at the same time as the main ignition wire (or accessory depending on how it is programmed). It is normally not used.

BLACK/ white   Neutral Safety Input   This wire must see ground either through a factory Neutral Safety Switch (ground when vehicle is in neutral, open when in gear). However with the truck being a 5spd and the alarm/starter being placed into manual mode, this wire will most likely need to be connected to the factory parking brake. Check with the install manual to be sure.

Dark blue   Status output   This wire shows a (-) 200ma signal when the remote start is activated. This is mostly used for triggering immobilizer bypass modules. You will probably not need this connection.

Pink   (-) 200ma Ignition 1 Output   This is the same as the pink/white above, but it is activated with the Ignition output only. Normally not used.

WHITE/ black   Aux 3 output   This wire is used for driving relays for external accessories that may be added. Normally not used.

Violet   (+) Door trigger input   This wire is used when the vehicle door pin is a (+) signal.

WHITE/ Violet   Aux 1 output   Same as WHITE/ black.

Violet/black   Aux 2 output   Same as WHITE/ black.

ORANGE / black   Aux 4 output   Same as WHITE/ black.

Violet / YELLOW   (-) 200ma Starter output   This wire is the same as the (-) ignition and flex relay outputs above. It sends a (-) 200ma signal whenever the main starter wire is activated. Normally not used however you will most likely use it to drive a relay to bypass your clutch safety switch.

WHITE/ blue   Remote Start/Turbo Timer activation input   This wire will activate the remote start feature of the vehicle when it is grounded. Normally not used except for when the turbo timer function is used and an external trigger is wanted.

Orange   (-) 200ma Accessory output   Same as Pink and Pink/White above.

RED / White   Flex relay 12v input   Connect this wire along with the Red and RED / Black wires to a constant 12v source.

Orange   Accessory output   Connect this wire to your accessory wire on the truck.

Violet   Starter output   (car side)   Connect this wire to the car side of your cut factory starter wire.

Green   Starter input (key side)   Connect this wire to the key side of your cut factory starter wire.

Red   Ignition 12v output   See RED / White above.

Pink/white   Flex relay output   Connect this wire to a 2nd ignition or 2nd accessory wire on the vehicle (must reprogram unit for 2nd accessory)

Pink/Black   Flex relay input (key side)   This wire is only used if the 2nd accessory/ignition wire needs to be cut for remote start. Not required on your truck.

To be 100% honest, it sounds like you are in way over your head. You are asking some of the absolute most basic questions. I'm all about going head first, but you are taking a BIG risk if you are not 100% confident in your skills. One wrong or improper connection can cause THOUSANDS of dollars in damage to the truck. My advice is to bring it to a professional. Its worth the cost.

Manual transmissions also add an additional difficulty and safety issue if not done properly.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I am confident in my ability to do this. However it is my first install. And anything i questioned myself on i figured i would ask here. I'd rather be 100% positive before i go into any project. Thanks for your advice.

It wasn't anything personal... I just see a lot of people get on here with no previous knowledge of a car's electrical system and expect to tackle jobs way above their skill level. We are here to help you through the install. Do you have a good DMM? If not make sure to get one before you even think of going under the dash... it will help ensure the correct connections are made. Also, please tell me you do intend to install this properly, with a manual transmission sequence (not just bypassing the clutch and using it as an automatic starter).

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Yes, my Meter is a Fluke 87 (True rms). Also, i intend on using the manual transmission mode that the Python 574 offers. I have heard horror stories from those who bypass this with cars starting in gear.

Ok good. You are off on the right path... lol. If you run into anything and have more questions just let us know!

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Well i have almost all of it wired up. The only thing im now questioning is how to bypass the "Clutch Engagement" which is the NSS input... I dont necessarily need to bypass it but i've been reading about relays used by one of the aux wires on the python side to send a signal to my two clutch wires... Any info that can be given to me would be great. Also should i hook my NSS Wire up to the parking brake?

Well after finding directeds tech tip #10000... and doing some research i have found out i will hook up H2/2 NSS input to my parking brake. However please tell me if this should work for my clutch bypass.
Below should be an image of what i intend to do. I am pretty sure my clutch is a normally open circuit and according to the tech tip this is how i should have it wired up... My main question is however can i use the pink/white h2/1 wire to be my + 12v to turn the relay on?

Actually i realized i read it wrong. I think i will need a + trigger. seeing that the pink/white is a (-)... Could i use the orange wire from H3/3 Accessory Output?

Wow. I now realize what i need to do. Ignore my 2 previous posts. Tell me if this diagram is correct Please.
Basically it needs a 12v positive at all times, and then the relay opens by the h2/18 wire which sends a signal to the relay to create a connection between the two sides of my clutch switch.

You can use the status output, but I prefer to use the (-)200ma starter output. That way it only activates during cranking. Other than that I'm not 100% sure on that truck on whether you need to open the circuit or connect the 2 wires. Your best bet is to test your wires and see what they do when the clutch is pressed in.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Well the test procedure described in mitchell ondemand and the dodge ram FSM states this
Check switch continuity with an ohmmeter
while operating clutch pedal.
² Pedal Depressed - Continuity
² Pedal Released - No Continuity

So im assuming that it is normally in the open position (when released) and when it is depressed current is going through which would mean its normally an open circuit... Right?

Well i have it all hooked up and im having one minor/major problem. When i turn the key to the on position all of my lights flash and flicker. If i unplug the unit it stops immediately. Also im using the directed 457c (bad reviews and now i know why) and it will lock my doors but will not unlock them

Also, when i plug in the alarm box/module, my door buzzer starts beeping as if my door was open, however it wont do it when its unplugged... I tested and double tested every wire and took the better part of two days to install this. I took my time and thought i had it all right. Sometimes it wont do the flickering and everything acts fine. But that was only once or twice...

Where did you ground the unit to? Have you tried pressing unlock on the remote after plugging it in to see if it is the alarm in the aftermarket alarm going off?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I grouneded it to another factory ground on the left kick panel... Should i ground it somewhere else by itself? Arm/Disarm makes no difference in how its acting unfortunately.

Also, just realized that all of my gauge lights are staying illuminated when i plug the module in. Wether the vehicle is on or off the lights on the gauges and on my light switch are staying on. Could i have tapped into the wrong wire?

It sounds like a bad ground issue. Did you put its own ring terminal on it or did you just tap into a factory ground? Also check your battery terminals for corrosion and to make sure they are tight. You may also want to do a drop test on your battery (either bring it to be tested or disconnect your ignition and fuel pump so the trunk won't start, and crank the engine for a few seconds to watch your battery voltage).

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

ok, well i cut the white wire on the 6 pin harness... and it fixed my problem for the most part. Now when i turn my headlight switch to the parking light position.... my fog lights come on with my parking lights, without me pulling my switch out...
Still no unlock feature though.

How did you connect your parking lights. If I remember correctly that truck needs a ground through a resistor to activate the parking lights and you MUST use a relay to isolate it from the switch. If you did not use a relay to isolate it there is a slight chance you may have damaged your light switch or possibly even the unit itself.

Remind me, what exactly is the unlock doing/not doing and how do you have it connected currently?

Edit: I looked back in your original post. The door locks MUST use a relay as well. The ground output of the alarm is not strong enough to drive the locks through the resistor.

I would start by completely disconnecting everything from your parking light wire to return it to factory and see if the switch returns to working properly. If not you may have damaged the switch, and hopefully just the switch. If it starts working properly then you can go back into it and connect the relay as follows:
Pin 85 to ground (or 12v constant if alarm parking light output is (-))
Pin 86 to alarm Parking light output (+)
Pin 30 to car side of cut parking light wire
Pin 87a to switch side of cut parking light wire
Pin 87 to ground through resistor (I want to say its 180ohm but check that to be sure)

Then once you get that working you need to get a DEI 451m relay pack. It will plug into your door lock output connetor and then connect the remaining wires as follows
Violet/Black - Ground
Blue/Black - lock/unlock wire through unlock resistor
GREEN/ Black - lock/unlock wire through lock resistor
WHITE/ Black - no connection
BROWN / Black - no connection


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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks for all of your help. Ill pick up a few more relays tomorrow and go from there. Keep running out of daylight here after work.

If you can't get your hands on a DEI 451m you can do it with 2 4 pin relays. But the parking light relay MUST be a 5 pin.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

after reading many reviews the dei 457c is a comnplete piece of junk that almost never works. IS that you you recommended the 451m ... and i can get it but it wont be here for a few days. After buying 4-5 relays would it be cheaper just to buy one of those all in one modules... such as the dball?

You may want to look into the idatalink bypass. It will need to be connected w2w but thats usually preferred over data anyways. But it also incorporates a few extra data-bus options. If you go with the DB-ALL just make sure you get it programmed with the right firmware for your truck. If you go with idatalink, look into the ADS-ALSL CH. It should come pre-programmed with the proper firmware. The ADS will give you outputs for brake pedal, tach, door status, factory arm/disarm, lock/unlock, and immobilizer. Although I'm sure you've made most of those connection already anyways, if you switch out to a new bypass you will probably be pretty much starting over anyways.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ok. Do i need a bitwriter to program all of the features on this? I thought it was able to be done with the remote by geting it into a certain mode. Im confused on how to program it properly.

Yes it can be done manually. You have more options with the BitWriter but it is not required. The install manual should give you the exact procedure... I'm not 100% sure how to do it on that one.

How did you make out with the other issues? I'm assuming everything is working since you are getting ready to program???

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Well i think part of my unlock issue is the fact that it needs a double pulse instead of a single pulse to unlock. And i hooked up all of my remote start features and im getting an error. Remote Start Error (7 Flashes) Manual start mode??? But , when i try to program with my remote it doesnt work properly. I've followed the instructions. Is the control button the one where the blue light is... or is it the F button on the remote? Ithought f would stand for function.

the control button is the one on the antenna. You door locks will require a relay if I'm not mistaking. The ground signal out of the unit is not strong enough to trigger the locks through the resistors. Did you get your parking lights figured out?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Sorry i work 12 hours shifts from thursday-sunday and dont have time to work on the truck during these days. So im back at it today. As far as the parking lights go i did not get it hooked up properly yet, from what i understand if i go from the switch i have to go the relay/resistor route. but apparently theres a + under the hood somewhere i that i can tap into? Possibly into the relay itself. However there is 2 wires for parking lights a white and a WHITE/ brown... Which one goes where... Thanks again.
Sean

H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay
H1/5 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT

I originally had these hooked up wrong, i had h1/5 (white) hooked to a negative at the switch which is how i did indeed fry my switch (already replaced everything works properly now).... However, need to get these hooked up properly. Thanks,
Sean.

Sorry... I didn't realize that the unit you had had the isolation wire. You will want to cut your factory parking light wire at the switch, connect the WHITE/ brown to the switch side; white to the parking light side; then insert the proper resistor into the module where the parking light fuse jumper normally is. Make sure to put the resistor along the 2 connectors for (-) parking light output.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks man ill give that a shot now.

Hey that worked perfectly. Thanks for the advice. I think i figured out my remote start problem too, because its manual i forgot that i have to follow the remote start procedure. Im going to go give that a shot now. Hopefully it works.

Did you also connect the clutch bypass?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Just finished that about 5 minutes ago. Works perfectly. I couldnt figure out the manual transmission mode feature so i put it into automatic just to test it, and then when i switched it back to manual it all the sudden started to work flawlessly. Thanks for all your help, wish there was something i could do to repay you for this. Just have to get my door unlock feature working which isnt a priority for me. My lock button works ... just need to do a few more relays for the unlock feature and i should be good.
Thanks Again,
Sean

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSyiGTJZ-38
It, just need to install the new headlight switch so that my fog lights dont come on when parking lights are on.

You best bet for the locks is to pick up a DEI 451m. It will make life a lot easier.

Violet/Black - ground
GREEN/ Black - 820ohm resistor - violet/dark green wire in DKP
Blue/Black - 330ohm resistor - violet/dark green wire in DKP
BROWN / Black - no connection
WHITE/ Black - no connection

The 3 pin plug with the green, blue, and red wires will plug right into the Python door lock connector.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks again man. Couldn't have done it without you.

No problem. Glad I could help.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205