03 honda crv avital 4103 and ads dlsl ha

I have done eight Remote Start installs but haven’t done one several years. Back in the day I hard wired everything. Am impressed with the modern bypass modules and am going to try one. Have a few questions.

2003 Honda CRV. Plan to use an Avital 4103lxl with an idatlink ADS-DLSL-HA. I chose this ADS model because it is a solo series and should be good to go. Will be connecting via W2W.

ADS calls for a GWR wire. On the 4103 is this the orange ground when locked?
ADS calls for trunk out. On 4103 is this RED / white channel 2 output?

From there I will follow ADS wiring and from the 4103 hook up 12V, Ground, Brake, Hood Pin, Parking Light, Horn and I may also do rear defroster.

Sure seems easy. Have I missed anything? – Any reason I should chose different equipment? Thanks in advance.

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There are absolutely only two kind of people in the world – Those who absolutely believe there are only two kind of people in the world and those who don’t.

The GWR is a blue wire in the 4 pin satellite relay harness (ground when running; NOT ground when armed). Yes, the trunk output is RED / white in the main harness.

You will still need to connect all of your main heavy gauge ignition wires. I believe that vehicle has 2 accessory wires and both need to be powered for the heater blower to work. The bypass should control the locks and factory alarm controls. So the rest of what you have should be right.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

OK, I see that now, it is called the 200mA status output
Then I’ll go:
Pink ignition output to CRV White ignition harness
Purple Starter to BLACK/ white starter
Orange accessory to BLACK/ red accessory
Pink/white programmable ignition 2 output programmed to accessory to CRV second accessory WHITE/ red.

Of Course will do 12V in straight to the battery w/30A fuse, all soldered, no t-taps.

If you see any other mistakes, please let me know.

Kenny (offroadzj) thanks you so much for the lightening fast response. Your help is sooooo appreciated.

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There are absolutely only two kind of people in the world – Those who absolutely believe there are only two kind of people in the world and those who don’t.

Looking good so far.  Using an iDatalink module is good.  Going W2W is good.  Soldering all connections is good. 

Heat shrink tube where possible, Scotch Super 33+ everywhere else. 

One last thought, run a Tach wire to the test connector and program the Avital to Tach Mode ( Menu2, Item1, Opt4 ).
Virtual Tach is not 100% reliable and cold weather does affect Honda's.

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Soldering is fun!

You should be able to get your 12v constant at the ignition switch. I believe it will be a heavy enough gauge wire.
Here is the wiring info for that car:
DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - HONDA / CRV / 2003 / Remote Start

[PRINT THIS PAGE]

12volts      white      +      ignition harness
Starter      BLACK/ white      +      ignition harness
Second Starter      N/A           
Ignition      BLACK / YELLOW      +      ignition harness
Second Ignition      N/A           
Third Ignition      N/A           
Accessory      BLACK/ red      +      ignition harness
Second Accessory      WHITE/ red      +      ignition harness
Keysense      RED / white      -      ignition harness
Power Lock      WHITE/ blue      -      gray plug above driver kick
Power Unlock      WHITE/ green      -      gray plug above driver kick
Lock Motor      yellow/black      5wi      gray plug above driver kick
Unlock Motor      YELLOW /GREEN      5wi      gray plug above driver kick
Parking Lights+      RED / black      +      driver kick panel
Parking Lights-      blue      -      factory alarm plug
Notes: The factory alarm plug is a green plug to the left of the steering column.
Hazards      same as turn signals           
Turn Signal(L)      GREEN/ red      +      steering column
Turn Signal(R)      GREEN/ YELLOW      +      steering column
Reverse Light      GREEN/ black      +      fuse box, 18 pin plug, pin 1
Door Trigger      green & lt. GREEN/ red      -      factory alarm plug
Notes: The driver door trigger is green, and lt. GREEN/ red catches all the other doors. Use both and diode isolate each.

The factory alarm plug is a green plug to the left of the steering column.
Dome Supervision      comes on with unlock           
Trunk/Hatch Pin      GREEN / WHITE & red      -      factory alarm plug
Notes: The GREEN / WHITE is for the hatch glass pin switch, and the red is for the tailgate pin switch.

The factory alarm plug is a green plug to the left of the steering column.
Hood Pin      yellow/red      -      factory alarm plug
Notes: The factory alarm plug is a green plug to the left of the steering column.
Trunk/Hatch Release      BLACK / YELLOW      -      gray plug above driver kick
Power Sliding Door      N/A           
Factory Alarm Arm                 
Factory Alarm Disarm                 
Disarm No Unlock                 
Tachometer      blue      ac      test connector
Notes: The test connector is next to the battery.
Wait to start      N/A           
Brake Wire      WHITE/ black      +      brake pedal switch
Parking Brake      GREEN/ orange      -      parking brake switch
Horn Trigger      orange      -      factory alarm plug
Notes: The factory alarm plug is a green plug to the left of the steering column.
Memory Seat 1      N/A           
Memory Seat 2      N/A           
Memory Seat 3      N/A           

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Will do – is it the blue tach test wire next to the battery to violet/white tach input (programmed).
Do I learn the virtual tach first and then hook this up after, or do I hook up and program the RS right off, before the first start?

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There are absolutely only two kind of people in the world – Those who absolutely believe there are only two kind of people in the world and those who don’t.

Thanks for the wiring info. Better, more info, than what I had.

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There are absolutely only two kind of people in the world – Those who absolutely believe there are only two kind of people in the world and those who don’t.

Wire Avital to iDatalink on bench.  Install assy in vehicle ( including Tach wire connection ).  Plug in fuses.  Program ADS bypass to vehicle.  Try locks.  Program Avital for Tach Mode and Flex Relay = ACC2.  Do Tach Learn process.  Try a remote start.

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Soldering is fun!

One more question - does the "hood Pin" yellow/red sense when the hood is opened? Can I use it and then won't need to install the mechanical one that comes with the unit?

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There are absolutely only two kind of people in the world – Those who absolutely believe there are only two kind of people in the world and those who don’t.

Verify Blue Tach wire with Digital Multi Meter.  Set to 20V A/C.  Connect Black lead to chassis ground and Red lead to suspect Blue wire.  At idle, reading should be1 to 6 volts and rise slightly with RPM's.

Test Hood Pin wire with DMM to be sure.  It should show open with hood closed and ground when hood is raised.  Set DMM to 20V DC.  Red lead to +12V and black lead to sustect hood pin wire.  DMM should show 0V with hood closed and +12v with hood open.  That is what the Avital is looking for.

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg357 - thank you so much.

Can I pick up the tach test anywhere in the cab? if so I shoud be able to stay totally in cab and not need to go thorught the firewall.

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There are absolutely only two kind of people in the world – Those who absolutely believe there are only two kind of people in the world and those who don’t.

Don't see any Tach wires listed inside the vehicle.  Honda is pretty good with having a convenient grommet in the firewall.  If you run the wire carefully, away from heat & motion, and solder / tape your connection, you will be fine.

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Soldering is fun!

I have gotten the tach inside on the CRV, but I'm not sure if it applies to this year. You can take a look at the fusebox above the gas pedal. You will see all the fuses and the above the fuses are a series of green plugs. While looking straight at the fusebox, the third connection up from the fuses on the face of the fusebox and on the left side should have a blue tach wire in it. Its a smaller green plug with about 8 or so wires in it.This plug also has the orange horn wire immediately to the right of the blue tach wire. Make sure you test.
Also, I feel the Idatalink doorlock and transponder module is too much for that car. You can find the doorlocks right at the drivers kick panel, as well as trunk release in the same connector. Negative lights are at the green alarm connector taped up to the left of the steering column(blue tape). Horn is in that green alarm connection also. Brake wire is at brake switch, easy to get to. Ignition wires are wrapped in gray tapped coming down the steering column and turning right in front of the fusebox area. When you take off the underdash you will see there is a hole to the right in the substructure with a gray taped harness going across it. This is your ignition wires if you want to grab them there. Data wires for transponder bypass are also in that harness. I personally use a dei's PKH3 or PKH34 or fortin's key override-all.
Also, you most likely do not have a factory alarm you will need to deal with. I have never done a CRV with a factory alarm until 2007. Not to say they are not out there...but rare.

Flobee4, thanks much for the info. You are right about the alarm, I tested with an open window. The green dash key fooled me into assuming it was a factory alarm. (You know what they say about those who assume).

I now see that idatlink may be overkill but I ordered everytiing before reading your post. Plus I have thought through how to install it and wanted to try one anyway. At this point it is not worth trying to change.

Will do the install in a week or two when I can get some time and will post up results when completed.

Thanks to all who offered assistance. This is by far the finest site on the web – hands down - because of the people. I have always found what I need mostly just by searching.

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There are absolutely only two kind of people in the world – Those who absolutely believe there are only two kind of people in the world and those who don’t.

Here is a post up to close out this thread. Ended up with a nice, clean install with a few turns along the way.

The car does not have a light or anything on the hood so I could not use the factory yellow/red hood pin – nothing there. I had hoped to not need to go through the firewall at all. Sense I did, I didn’t bother to try the tack at the fuse box. I think I found it but it would be hard to get so I just used the one near the battery.

Had another small problem. For the ADS door lock data I needed to get on “pin 2” on the 17 pin connector located at the back of the fuse box. Really hard to get to but I believe I was on the right wire. However the locks did not work so I must not have been. Wasn’t sure what to probe for so I went to the drivers kick and got my locks.

Shame, this is my first use of a “modern” interface and I had hoped for a more factory like performance using the remote – one click for the driver door, two for the rest, etc. However it works like a traditional directed.

One more issue I will post in a new thread. Can’t get the ignition controlled lock/unlock to work.

All in all, went quickly and works fine. Couldn’t have done without the good advice received here!

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There are absolutely only two kind of people in the world – Those who absolutely believe there are only two kind of people in the world and those who don’t.