Printer Friendly Forum Posts - cx2300 a remote start alarm

I can help you, really, but seems you have many troubles. Start by sorting one problem at a time, from the easiest to the toughest.
Door detection should be easy. Check with multimeter if it's tied to ground (90% of the cases) or to 12V when the door is opened, and wire accodingly.

Regarding remote start, it seems you meet the conditions for remote start (handbrake on, engine stopped in the right way previously), otherwise it would even not crank.
That's strange because in my case, the lowest setting 0:6 (cranking pulse time) cranks my car more than half a second (I would say 1-1.5s).
Give it a try with 0:9 or even 1:2
Don't use tachometer wire for the moment (so configure accordingly), take it easy fisrt.

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200sx, 300zx, S4.
Carvox CX2300a mods:
_RF range extended (>5kms)
_interfaced with GPS106B tracker
_hacked

Door trigger all doors, go to the wire at the domelight or at the fuse box that switches to ground when door is opened, stays on ground for X seconds till domelight shuts down or immediately doors are locked.
Tach either your location, colour seems correct or OBD LL data socket, pin 9.
It's either a tach not programmed or a by-pass (if needed) problem.
Does it R/S if you leave the key in the ignition, also is the key sense wire connected?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'm at work now so I can't check the door trigger wire til I get home. As far as a keysense wire, there is no wire on the alarm to connect to that. Is that needed anyway since my car has no immobilizer? When I get home I will try to "tach learn" the unit again, and then if that still doesn't work I will try tachless mode to see if it will start. The instructions are very strange. I highlighted in yellow the part that doesn't make sense.
https://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/560/cx2300usermanual17.jpg

Thanks!

roofoo wrote:

The instructions are very strange. I highlighted in yellow the part that doesn't make sense.
https://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/560/cx2300usermanual17.jpg

They are not. This is the "first time after install" remote start procedure. A kind of safety procedure to be sure all the wiring is correct (particularly handbrake or gear neutral depending on your wiring).
Failing this step, you will not be able to remote start after having closed the door with the remote.

But again you told us the starter craked, so .... at least the CX2300 is trying to start. If conditions were not met, it would not even try to crank.

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200sx, 300zx, S4.
Carvox CX2300a mods:
_RF range extended (>5kms)
_interfaced with GPS106B tracker
_hacked

What I'm confused about is the instructions don't say to start the engine, just turn the key to on. How can it learn the tach if the engine doesn't run? posted_image

Sounds to me that you missed one of the two ignition wires

If there's a keysense wire on this vehicle it will be controlled by the unit's "Status output" or GWA wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

P.S. Have you even bothered to try it with the key in to eliminate one of the possibilities?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I tried R/S with key in ON position, it still didn't work. Also started the engine with the key, then did the remote start keypress but when I pulled out the key the engine stopped.

THe car supposedly has a keysense wire, a yellow wire in the ignition harness. So you're saying that needs to be connected to the GWA wire from the brain?

Remote start of CX2300 doesn't work like this.

Except the "first after install" procedure, you cannot remote start if the car is not previously in ARM state / doors closed.

Yellow wire is just ignition detection wire.

-------------
200sx, 300zx, S4.
Carvox CX2300a mods:
_RF range extended (>5kms)
_interfaced with GPS106B tracker
_hacked

Ok, so ignore the yellow wire?

roofoo wrote:

Ok, so ignore the yellow wire?

No, must be connected and must "see" 12V when your turn the key to IGN position.
Must see 12v when cranking too (refer to the manual).

The state of this wire is checked both when the alarm is armed and for remote start.

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200sx, 300zx, S4.
Carvox CX2300a mods:
_RF range extended (>5kms)
_interfaced with GPS106B tracker
_hacked

But that sounds like the IGN 1 wire. According to my diagrams, the yellow wire is keysense and is grounded when the key is in the ignition.

I just thought of something else. Which side of the starter kill relay should the remote starter wire connect to? I have it connected to the key side right now.

It should connect to the vehicle side. If it is on the key side then it will not start the car when the relay is energized(by ignition and the ground when armed wire)

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

AH! ok, then I will have to change that. Thanks!

Er Kenny, help me with this, it if tries to crank then our poster has starter cut/anti grind connected the right way round.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

BUt could it be the relay that immediately stops the starter crank? When the relay gets +12 from IGN 1 while alarm is armed, relay contacts break the connection to the starter motor.

roofoo wrote:

BUt could it be the relay that immediately stops the starter crank? When the relay gets +12 from IGN 1 while alarm is armed, relay contacts break the connection to the starter motor.

Yes, but the ignition should be activation way before the starter... so the starter shouldn't be cranking at all. I would have to agree with Howie in that it sounds like it is correctly connected... otherwise it would not crank at all. Unless the relay coil is not connected properly and it is energizing with the starter....

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

Yes, but the ignition should be activation way before the starter... so the starter shouldn't be cranking at all. I would have to agree with Howie in that it sounds like it is correctly connected... otherwise it would not crank at all. Unless the relay coil is not connected properly and it is energizing with the starter....

I think you're right, I tried connecting to the other side of the relay and there was definitely no crank noise. So I had it connected to the right side I guess.

Ok, I tested the RED / blue wire again. When the door is opened, it measures 1.75V. When closed it measures 12V. I tried grounding it to see if that would trigger the domelight but nothing happens. So I'm thinking I have the wrong wire for the door trigger.

the door trigger wire is RED / WHITE (-)

look at the fusebox, at the top there are 2 white connectors. the left connector (believe towards the bottom) is the RED / white (-) that will watch all doors.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I found another RED / blue wire in the same bundle that seems to work with my domelight supervision. It still doesn't register the door input though. I'll look for the RED / white wire again, but darned if I could find it earlier.

Okay, I looked at the white connectors and there is no RED / white wire, only a RED / blue one. There are RED / white wires to the left bottom side of the fusebox in grey connectors . The wiring sheet from Scion also shows a RED / blue wire connecting the door switches, not a RED / white.
https://img190.imageshack.us/img190/3701/068069interiorlight1.jpg

Here is a photo I took of the fusebox. As you can see, there is no RED / white wire in either of the 2 white connectors, only a RED / blue in the bottom left pin.
https://img202.imageshack.us/img202/2175/1001237rs.jpg

Sorry to keep bumping this thread, but I think I figured out what to do. The RED / blue I am connected to now sees all the doors except the driver door. If you see the wiring schematic I posted, the driver's door trigger is on a separate line from the rest. So do I need to connect both RED / blue wires to the door trigger input and diode isolate them?

if there are 2 wires, you need to diode isolate the 2 wires.

driver door pin RED.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

If you don't find the RED / white door trigger wire @ top of fuse box in a 9 pin plug, then it's a RED / blue in the DKP towards the sill plate.

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Protect what's yours.

Also your starter wire should be on the car side of the starter kill relay not the key side. The car will never remote start with it on the key side hence the reason for the relay it kills the ignition from being started with the key when the car is armed, so in order for the car to remote start when the car is armed it has to be on the car side.

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Protect what's yours.

Okay, I'm making some progress! I diode isolated the 2 different door trigger wires, so now all doors set off the alarm. The domelight supervision works too!

Now for the remote start. I tried disconnecting the tach wire to see if it would work without it. Same problem - starter cranks for a fraction of a second then stops. Do I need to connect the tach wire input to ground or 12V if not used, or just leave it unconnected to anything?

If you disconnect it you need to also program the unit for voltage or no engine sensing and adjust your crank time accordingly. Have you tried remote starting with your key in the ignition (not turned, just in the barrel)?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I just tried again with the key iin the barrel, still no go. I'm not sure how to program the unit for tachless mode, the manual just says to not connect the tach wire. So I guess it's supposed to automatically detect it's not using the tach input?

It won't start because your starter wire is on the wrong side of the starter kill relay,I would switch it around and then test with the key in the barrel. Then if that works, then tackletach issue.

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Protect what's yours.

Somebody else said that if it was on the wrong side of the relay, then it wouldn't crank at all. Which it is doing, just not long enough to start the engine.

It'll will try to crank if the car is not armed because pin 30 and pin 87 are connected when the relay isn't active, did you fix your door trigger problem ?

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Protect what's yours.

OK children, before Ted pulls his hair out and ends up cynical like me do the following:-
Does your dome light stay on when you shut the car doors but extinguishes within 4 seconds of locking the doors?
If so you will have two or three wires there.
One is a constant 12V+, the second sits on ground when the doors are open and will go to 12V+ when the dome light goes out.
Connect to that and job done.
Or do you have an icon telling you the doors and trunk are open on your instrument panel?
If so pull the gauge cluster and use them, both neg.
Job done and no need for dome supervision.
Something else I've noticed, use a good quality test light such as a Snap-On or a Mac with an incandescent bulb. Much more reliable for the measurements you're doing and you seem to be rather ham fistedly overdoing it with the DMM.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi Howie, I've got the door triggers working correctly. So a brief rundown of everything:

Door lock: Working
Door unlock: Working
Hood pin switch: Working
All doors trigger alarm: Working
Domelight supervision: Working
Parking lights: Working
Siren: Working
Starter kill relay: Working
Parking brake switch: Working
Brake input: working
Shock sensor: Not tested yet
Tilt sensor: Not tested yet
Remote start: Not yet working - cranks partially then stops (with or without tach input, and with or without key)

Any other suggestions? I am thinking about measuring the voltage on the starter wire as it tries to remote start to see what's happening.

Thanks guys

Does anybody know what this option does?

6. ING2 fire off or on when motor crank

Not relevant to your vehicle.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Anyone know if it has 2 starter wires?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok, lets go over everything.
1) Did you connect BOTH ignition wires at the switch/ignition harness (BLACK/ red & BLACK / YELLOW)

2) Check your brake shutdown wire to make sure it is NOT showing 12v unless the brake pedal is pushed in (check it by turning the ignition on and while cranking)

3) Check you hood pin and make sure that it is ONLY showing ground when the hood is open, and nothing (or maybe 12v) when the hood is closed.

4) Is there a neutral safety wire? If so make sure that is properly grounded.

5) Connect your DMM black lead to the ground wire directly at the remote start unit, and the red lead to all of your main power inputs one at a time. Watch the voltage during the remote start process.

Check all of those things and get back to me with the results.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Kenny, if our poster hears it crank, then 2,3 and 4 are irrelevant.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Test the R/S starter output, make sure it fires for about half a second.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I am more having him test to make sure that he didn't grab a wrong wire and one of them are showing signal during crank. Its a long shot, but I'd prefer to cover all th bases... haha.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

OK, but I think you and I already know the answer, remember SF?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

okay basics here.

12v - WHITE/ blue
start - black small gauge
ignition - black thicker gauge
ignition 2 - BLACK / YELLOW
acc -blue/red
tach - black @ obd plug pin 9

i think you missed an ignition wire.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

try remote starting with the key in the ignition on the ignition position. if it fires right up, you missed an ignition.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Kenny, Ted said it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Back to the question earlier, "program ign 2 to fire on crank" YES!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

tedmond wrote:

try remote starting with the key in the ignition on the ignition position. if it fires right up, you missed an ignition.

I can't do that, because I have to arm the alarm before remote starting and it kills the starter with the key in the on position.

Or rather, the alarm goes off so it won't crank. The starter wire is connected on the vehicle side.

howie ll wrote:

Back to the question earlier, "program ign 2 to fire on crank" YES!

It's programmed that way by default. I measured the starter output from the brain when remote starting, it is 12 V for about a second.

Did you connect the 2nd ign wire like stated above ?

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Protect what's yours.

roofoo wrote:

tedmond wrote:

try remote starting with the key in the ignition on the ignition position. if it fires right up, you missed an ignition.

I can't do that, because I have to arm the alarm before remote starting and it kills the starter with the key in the on position.

i read the thread and realized it was a carvox. I'm surprised its become 6 pages.

okay do this then. you haven't understood the concept of an alarm/rs. When the alarm is armed, and you start the vehicle, the alarm is only active on the door triggers and hood.

1) sit in the vehicle and close the doors. arm the system
2) place a key into the ignition barrel in the off position
3) activate the remote start
4) as the remote start begins to activate ie acc, ign, turn the key to the ign position and leave it. if the vehicle cranks and turns over and stays running, you have incorrectly wired the ignition.

try that and see. i have a feeling its an ignition, or maybe because its a carvox unit

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I just tried what you said exactly. It still didn't turn over the engine. It's almost like the starter just isn't getting enough power.

There is also a WHITE/ red wire in the ignition bundle but I don't know what it's for. I haven't connected it to anything.

roofoo wrote:

There is also a WHITE/ red wire in the ignition bundle but I don't know what it's for. I haven't connected it to anything.

Nevermind, that's the constant 12V. I am using the WHITE/ blue constant 12V wire to power the brain.

okay so now we know you have it all hooked up correctly.

the issue is the carvox does not see that the engine is running.
Connect tach and program it. make sure in settings it is set to tach.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

tedmond wrote:

okay so now we know you have it all hooked up correctly.

the issue is the carvox does not see that the engine is running.
Connect tach and program it. make sure in settings it is set to tach.

This is the part that confuses me. The manual doesn't say how to program the tach. I know most other remote starts have you press a button or something to put it in learning mode, but the manual doesn't mention that.

connect tach at the obd2 plug. pin 9 black wire.

try starting again and maybe it will pick it up automatically. If taht fails, connect the tach wire to ignition. troubleshoot below:

if tack does not work, check the unit for an oil pressure sense wire,
if you happen to have one connect this to ignition, and remove tach wire.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Which ignition would I connect the tach wire to? 1 or 2?

it would not make a difference. either is fine.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Ok Ted. Please enlighten me, how in the world does connecting the tach to the ignition wire work? I'm not familiar with that unit; does it basically just become voltage sensing?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ted, have you installed this unit before? And where would I find an oil sensor wire? Thanks for your help.

ive done a few for people and one in my sisters winter beater a few years back. i honestly don't know if they were carvox, but they were some Chinese units that's for sure.

its really a hit and miss, and there are so many variations of this unit. Some had oil pressure sensor wires, some had tach or both. for all the carvox units ive done, ive attempted to use tach, but it never worked.

i connected tach to the ignition it started everytime. beats me i tell you.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Do you use a resistor to lower the current or just connect directly to the ignition?

...my instructions were to just connect it direct to ignition.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Just checking. Don't want to burn anything up . posted_image

Ted, Kenny, isn't this a prime reason why we try and get people away from these units to the proper brands and why it can't be sorted without proper testing or professional install.
8 pages, bloody hell.
To the first poster, the oil pressure switch feeds the icon on your gauges that looks like an oil can.
Kenny actually hit on the answer 7 pages ago!!!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yea, and I know the quality brands a little better. Being out of the game for a few years, I haven't heard of half the starters people are on here asking about.. haha.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

What do you think it's like over here, only DEI plus some Chinese cheap garbage.
How did that French guy know about it, mainland Europe is about 5-10 years behind the UK on this stuff.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Ted, Kenny, isn't this a prime reason why we try and get people away from these units to the proper brands and why it can't be sorted without proper testing or professional install.
8 pages, bloody hell.
To the first poster, the oil pressure switch feeds the icon on your gauges that looks like an oil can.
Kenny actually hit on the answer 7 pages ago!!!

What answer was that? posted_image

Aren't they all made in China anyway? The only difference is the instructions are not clear.

The answer is that rubbish to an amateur is even harder to put right or diagnose because of lack of experience.
No to being made in China, only DEI and the cheap stuff, anyway DEI is actually made in Taiwan to US designs, software and specs.
There's a hell of a difference in build quality, reliability etc. Between the Chinese stuff and US/Japanese/Taiwan/Korea stuff.
3 pointers, badly translated instructions, asking you to connect tach "engine sense" to the oil pressure switch and price.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Okay, well I'm going to try again tonight to get it to work based on Ted's idea. If I still can't I will try to get my money back. What do you think of Avital 5303?

Much better but please test and verify. If you aren't sure please don't hesitate to ask.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

How did that French guy know about it, mainland Europe is about 5-10 years behind the UK on this stuff.

What's the exact purpose of such sentence ....

This post is crazy.

I would never buy a $400 alarm, knowing what's inside.
The CX2300A gives you the services of a more expensive. Keep in mind it's $100.
YOu forget the chinese units can be modded easily too (with a bit of engineering).
Ok, you need to guess what the user manual is trying to tell but at the end, that does the job.

I hate the overengineered naming as here:
https://www.avital.com/Products/Product.aspx?path=Remote%20Start%20ampersand%20Security%20System&id=5000

By essence, any electronic device is not fault proof.
XR plus is just a joke but people are impressed .... that's magic
Any serial bus (ESP2) is painful when you want to add cheap accessories
(...)

[I]Fault-proof starter interrupt Keep your car where you parked it with this layer of protection against â€œhot-wiringâ€ by car thieves. Zone-2 impact sensor Detects blows or impacts to your vehicle with this 2-stage sensor that can react either with chirps or the full wrath of the siren. XR Plus Directed Electronics recently made a significant performance upgrade to the RF receiver section of many of our award-winning security and remote start systems. The new XR+ Extreme Range superheterodyne receiver has an improved sensitivity specification of between 3 dB and 6 dB, which equates to a measurable range increase on the order of 15 percent. It also offers improved image rejection for certain types of RF interference, resulting in improved reliability. ESP2 ESP2 is Directed's exclusive serial communications protocol that allows extra ultra-security, high-speed communication between systems and enables many of Directed's key features. Nuisance PreventionÂ® Circuitry (NPCÂ®) Neighborhood-friendly anti-false alarm technology Virtual Tach A dedicated A-to-D converter samples your vehicleâ€™s voltage hundreds of times each second, eliminating the need for a tachometer wire connection. D2D serial data port Quickly connects your Avital system to other interface devices via D2D cables. XCR onboard relays Extreme capacity remote start relays are built-in to Avital remote start systems. Bitwriter programmable Program your Avital system with the Innovations Award-winning Bitwriter hand-held programmer[/I]

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200sx, 300zx, S4.
Carvox CX2300a mods:
_RF range extended (>5kms)
_interfaced with GPS106B tracker
_hacked

Because I get to do loads of cars from mainland Europe, never ever seen a post on this site from France before! I used to install loads of Cobras, pretty bullet proof but extremely lacking in convenience features.
I've lived through the rubbish produced by Scorpion (now made in Taiwan!!) Meta and good old Piranha, went with the original Clifford product in 92.
Most of what you say is quite correct which is why we still tell people to do it W2W rather than D2D and I'm on record here as always telling people to hardwire tach.
I completely disagree with your comments, like Tedmund here I've tried to install the cheap junk and in terms of DOA product and lack of reliability it just isn't worth it.
And don't even get me on to French cars!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Amazon has it for $112. So it's about the same price I paid for the cx2300.

Ok, I tried with the tach wire connected to IGN 1. Still doesn't start. The car battery icon on the remote flashes and it beeps 4 times too. What does that mean?

OK, I've given up on this RS. I'm going to get a refund if I can. Thanks for everybody's patience with this, I really hoped I could figure it out but I've been a whole week without a car and can't troubleshoot any longer. posted_image

connect the PURPLE / white (oil pressure sensor wire) you can change it to tach, or as default connect to ACCESSORY.

i mentioned ignition previously, but Accessory would better mimic the oil pressure sensor wire. if you change the setting to tach, then connect to the OBD2 pin 9 black

also try leaving a key in the ignition cylinder in the off position.
or try what i suggested to flip the key to ignition when it was starting. after you do the oil sensor connection above.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Hey seriously I read every post and no one really seem to know how to plug the remote start on a cheap carvox....Door lock and shock sensor and stuff is pretty very easy...

But what about the Starter killer relay...

First of all with the chinese doodie carvox remote starter you have to cut you crank starter wire in half from the engine bay.
(that mean you cannot start/crank the car with the original key anymore and the only way to crank its with the remote key.)

Why no body here talk about the killer relay( 85 is easy its pluged to ignition, 86-pin1 of harness H3-->this is a ground actived by remote key that power the relay coil so that 30 let pass the +12 to 87 that is wired to the starter(the starter wire that you cut in half)

SO that mean no body in this forum ever talked for real about the stupid carvox install manual that dont tell at all where to take the +12 for 30 of the killer relay...

Carvox manual also dont tell where to plug the pin 3 of H1 harness
it only say Pin 3 purple wire(starter output+) connect to starter wire

So you have to understand alone that you have to cut in half your starter wire then pass 1 big wire from engine bay to inside car to relay 87 and to starter wire and also plug an other wire the pin 3 wire of H1 ..

That mean you have 2 wire going into the wire of the starter so its kind of a real strange 2 to 1 wire that doesnt look good...

So after installing carvox 2 way kit the neutral safety switch dont work no more and you cannot crank using the key no more...

Why no body ever talk about that and the killer relay but there is 9 page???

To much scrap here just like cheap Cardox manual

posted_image

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Aceracer

If any one here really installed a carvox remote starter plztell me what wire of my car should I plug on the 30 (starter killer relay)

make no sence on the carvox manual diagram

Some one tell me about real stuff

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Aceracer

what if starter relay fail while driving and voltage start passing from 30 to 87 without having the coil powered it would activate the starter while running...

Ive seen so many relay fail like this but carvox relay look hundred ime cheaper then the relay I seen fail and let pass a bit voltage from 30 to 87 without the coil activated.

Carvox is destinated to damage the car way too much and cut/damage all the car harness ...

Seriously have some one really install a Carvox remote starter and used it for more then a month without problems??????????

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Aceracer

YOu're a dumb, I even didn't read your firing posts entirely.

I have cx2300a fitted for 3 years now and use remote start 2 times per week. Nothing failed.

Stater killer relay <> remote start feature.

Starter relay wiring:
coil: IGNition (key ON) +12V and the orange wire coming from the unit (grounded when armed)
Relay switch: Original power wire of the fuel pump (may be IGN +12V but in my case, fuel pump has a power controller, so it's the ouput of the power controller) and the power wire going to the fuel pump (the one you just cut, so the relay is inserted in the fuel pump path).

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200sx, 300zx, S4.
Carvox CX2300a mods:
_RF range extended (>5kms)
_interfaced with GPS106B tracker
_hacked

You can also intercept the starter signal coming from the key but I preferred to intercept the fuel pump power supply.

-------------
200sx, 300zx, S4.
Carvox CX2300a mods:
_RF range extended (>5kms)
_interfaced with GPS106B tracker
_hacked

tegonfire wrote:

Hey seriously I read every post and no one really seem to know how to plug the remote start on a cheap carvox....Door lock and shock sensor and stuff is pretty very easy...

But what about the Starter killer relay...

First of all with the chinese doodie carvox remote starter you have to cut you crank starter wire in half from the engine bay.
(that mean you cannot start/crank the car with the original key anymore and the only way to crank its with the remote key.)

Why no body here talk about the killer relay( 85 is easy its pluged to ignition, 86-pin1 of harness H3-->this is a ground actived by remote key that power the relay coil so that 30 let pass the +12 to 87 that is wired to the starter(the starter wire that you cut in half)

SO that mean no body in this forum ever talked for real about the stupid carvox install manual that dont tell at all where to take the +12 for 30 of the killer relay...

Carvox manual also dont tell where to plug the pin 3 of H1 harness
it only say Pin 3 purple wire(starter output+) connect to starter wire

So you have to understand alone that you have to cut in half your starter wire then pass 1 big wire from engine bay to inside car to relay 87 and to starter wire and also plug an other wire the pin 3 wire of H1 ..

That mean you have 2 wire going into the wire of the starter so its kind of a real strange 2 to 1 wire that doesnt look good...

So after installing carvox 2 way kit the neutral safety switch dont work no more and you cannot crank using the key no more...

Why no body ever talk about that and the killer relay but there is 9 page???

To much scrap here just like cheap Cardox manual

sorry for spamming but would you mind sending me a clear copy of this diagram pls? tia