Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2011 toyota camry se remote start

I have a 2011 Toyota Camry SE I'm going to try to install a viper 4203v and a xpresskit xk05. I have done a few remote starters before but not in anything this new i have been searching the forum for install tips but now I'm really confused has any one installed this combo in this car can i get some tips

I have done installation in most toyota cars up to 2012, but I use "Key Override All" from Fortin Electronics. It is Simple.

ropuma wrote:

I have done installation in most toyota cars up to 2012, but I use "Key Override All" from Fortin Electronics. It is Simple.

Totally agree with ropuma. This is the most simple bypass for this vehicle if you don't wanna sacrifice a key. Also, use the are and disarm wires to lock and unlock the doors (unlock requires a double pulse). You can find them in the DKP and they will test with the key in the door. I use two diodes and isolate the disarm and unlock wires for the r/s so it disarms before remote start along with unlocking the doors (kill two birds with one stone). If you wanna incorporate the trunk release, there is a black 18AWG wire in the driver's harness running to the rear. This is 5-wire so make sure you use a relay. Also , I grab (+) p.lights (green) on the front of the fusebox. This wire will still allow for light flash with the p.light switch in the auto headlight position. Grab tach, black,pin 9 at OBD II.Other than that, This vehicle is straight forward.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

thanks guys but I'm sorry I don't have the xk05 I got the db-all how is this unit

It will work fine, but its a little overkill for that car. All that it gives you over say the Key-overide-all is foot brake, tach, and door / trunk status; all of which are extremely easy to get to on that car. I personally wouldn't have wasted the money, but if you already have it, then go for it. I suggest using the w2w method and run an actual tach to the OBD port. Don't use the tach out of the DB-ALL, I have never had a tach work correctly out of them (haven't really installed many though). Other than that it should be pretty straight forward.

1 more thing, make sure to use a relay on the 2nd start wire. Don't just jumper from the 1st starter wire. Also, is this a standard key or smart key?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

It's a standard key how do you run the relay for the second start wire

Because D2D can be unreliable and it gives almost no ability for diagnosing problems / issues in the future (no actual wires to test / verify). And it only takes a few minutes to make the connections so why risk the headache over 5 min. less of work?

Wire up the 2nd starter relay as follows:
30a/40a standard automotive SPDT relay
Pin 85 - (-)200ma 2nd starter output from r/s
Pin 86 - 12v constant fused
Pin 87 - 12v constant fused (20a)
Pin 30 - Vehicle 2nd Starter wire
Pin 87a - no connection

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

i don't see a second starter output from the remote start

also is there any special I have to do to unlock the door while the car is remote started with the factory key fob

If you don't see a 2nd starter output then do as follows:

Pin 85: (-)Ground while running
Pin 86: (+)Tap into Starter wire
Pin 87: (+)12v
Pin 30: Camry's 2nd starter wire
Pin 87a: Not used

I believe on the new DEI units that there is a 5 pin green plug with negative outputs for GWR (blue), Ignition (pink), 2nd Ignition (pink/white), ACC (orange), and the one you need, starter (purple).
Not sure without seeing a manual but this should steer you in the right direction.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

offroadzj wrote:

Don't use the tach out of the DB-ALL, I have never had a tach work correctly out of them (haven't really installed many though).

Thats cause it's a DEI product. For as much as they market their garbage you would think their products would be a like more reliable. Also, trying to find install manual for their R/S unit or alarms is like trying to pull teeth if you're not a dealer. They market like they're a royals royce but once you get a chance to install these you realize you got a geo metro. Just sayin.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

kxed] wrote:

also is there any special I have to do to unlock the door while the car is remote started with the factory key fob

I believe with the camry that the vehicle is designed to shut down the keyless entry when the vehicle is started. One thing you can try is to start the vehicle with the then try the keyless.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Yea the remote won't work while the key is in the ignition is their a way to unlock the doors while it is running eith the remote start with the factory key fob

On pin 85 is that any car ground while running or from the r/s and pin 86 that goes to starter no1

kxed] wrote:

On pin 85 is that any car ground while running or from the r/s and pin 86 that goes to starter no1

pin 85 is either the blue or blue/white ground while running from the r/s and you are correct on pin 86.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

kxed] wrote:

Yea the remote won't work while the key is in the ignition is their a way to unlock the doors while it is running eith the remote start with the factory key fob

I'm not too familiar with the factory keyless entry module on this vehicle but you may be able to interrupt the ignition wire that the factory keyless sees that shuts the keyless down while the vehicle is running.

Why don't you just use the r/s remote to unlock the doors. That unit has the ability to unlock the doors with the vehicle running and you'll have the remote with you anyway won't you?

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

its a one button remote will that unlock the doors

Yes. This option only works with the vehicle remote started. A 1 second press with the vehicle started will unlock the doors.

It says here in the manual:

4203v Owner's

I've used this feature on several one button systems.

Make sure you use the disarm wire in the DKP to unlock the doors ( - single will do driver's and - double will do all doors).

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Thank you for all your help I think I'm ready to install it

I don't see a wire for keysense from the rd or dball is there a wire I need to hook up for this

If you have a factory alarm, I believe connecting the GWR (Status output) of the remote starter to the keysense will disarm the factory alarm during remote start without unlocking the driver's door. Make sure to diode isolate the GWR when splitting between the DB-ALL and keysense. If you have a 2nd status output, then you can use that instead of having to diode isolate your GWR.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I don't have a factory alarm so do I need to hookup a keysense wire or dont I need it

Unless the bypass calls for it (some do, some don't) then no it is not needed.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

ok the db-all doesn't show it Needed. Thanks

For future notice the key sense doesn't disarm the factory alarm if it has one. Use the disarm that tests with the key in the door. We do all the remote starts for the toyota dealer in town and the key sense has never worked.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

Yea, I wasn't 100% sure about the 2011. I know that on the tacomas, up to 2010 it did work.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I got it installed the dball was a nightmare I couldn't get it to program so I ripped it out and installed a tk05 and programmed like a pro. even though they don't list it on the dei web sight Toyota is still using 2 different keys in 2011 a g key and a punch mark key. I think this is where I had the problem with the dball and tl4 firmware as I have the punch mark key but dei said it should still work.

Punchmark means 40bit and most bypasses connect to the RX/TX wires at the ignition switch

G on the key means 80bit and all bypasses connect to the IMI/IMO wires behind the glovebox.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Xpresskit only shows imi/imo for 2011 DEI said it will work hooked up in the imi/imo way ever though I have the 40bit key

kxed] wrote:

I got it installed the dball was a nightmare I couldn't get it to program so I ripped it out and installed a tk05 and programmed like a pro. even though they don't list it on the dei web sight Toyota is still using 2 different keys in 2011 a g key and a punch mark key. I think this is where I had the problem with the dball and tl4 firmware as I have the punch mark key but dei said it should still work.

Don't use DEI and you won't have this problem...ADS and fortin will set you free. Believe me posted_image

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage

I will remember that next time what brand remote start do you recomend

im big on the compustar + idatalink or fortin (whichever works better)

DEI start/alarm units are reliable and work great. just their xpresskits bypass line specifically DBALL need some fine tuning.

The price of a DBALL is significantly cheaper compared to fortin/idata when it comes to wholesale/dealer pricing. I have a feeling the current cost is to make up for their R&D, and soon once its "perfected" to them, the prices will go up.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

Okay guy now I'm having some new problems sometimes the remote start will do nothing at all I soldered all wires so it can't be a poor connection. can it be a antenna problem? also i didn't diode isolate anything as it didn't say to can there be an issue there?

i suggest you further explain your problem. "remote start will do nothing at all" doesn't really give us any indication or narrow down the problem.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

it will not activite at all no lights or clicking like there is no power and the remote makes the no reception noise

Start with the basics. Check all of your power and ground connections as close to the module as you can. Make sure to check all of the main (large gauge) 12v constants as well as the small gauge constant as well (if applicable). Connect your DMM black lead to the ground connection right at the unit (as close to the connector as possible) and the red lead to each constant power.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

It will work sometimes but not always all connections are soldered

It could be an antenna issue but just because something is soldered doesn't mean its not a bad connection. I would check all of your connections at the connectors into the r/s when it is not working and see if there is any change. If it is a connection, it will most likely be either a power or a ground issue since if it were a shutdown issue, it would at least flash the lights.

Also check the neutral safety toggle switch and make sure the connections on the switch are good. The small switches that DEI supplies have extremely weak connections and any little tug can break the connection.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

i grounded the neutral safety wire. I'm trying to catch it when its not working but that always seems to happen when I'm not at home to run some tests

I'm not familiar with that particular model, is there a separate toggle switch for disabling the remote start? If so check the connections on the back of the toggle.

If there is no toggle then you issue is most likely related to either a bad ground or bad power signal. What did you use for a ground?

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Next time it acts up for you try tapping the (-) activation input (usually WHITE/ blue on DEI units but not sure on this unit) to ground the same number of times that you would press the start button on your remote. If the starter responds to that on command you have issues with your transmitting and receiving (remote, antenna, antenna cable). If it doesn't respond when you tap it to ground you have a problem with power, ground, or the toggle switch.

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I drink current, eat ohms, and bleed voltage