clifford 590.2 dead siren output?

I went through all of the diagnostics the first time everything said bad alarm. You can jump 12V to the siren out and you will get a chirp. Read it with a DMM and no output on brown siren out from the alarm brain with siren disconnected. I called the place I got the alarm from they said no problem and sent me another one just got it back in today. Same exact problem as above it never even try's to let out a chirp shriek or nothing. Or am I getting a run on crap alarms.

Now I did install an additional siren inside the cab as I have many times in the past on customers vehicles back when I did this for a living and didn't have any problems. I've only been out the last 3 years though. Could the two siren's be instantly frying the siren output.

Thanks for thoughts ideas etc

most dei units say 1 amp max in the brown. a 514 pulls about 1 so if you have two 514 sirens you might be pushing it.

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

Yep used two of the 514 sirens in parallel. damm I figured I'd at least get bit of chirp out before it surrendered if that is the case. Guess we'll go for #3 and one siren and see if that does it.

definately try a single siren that you know works. before you accept that its a loss.

sometimes they will push 2 514s and sometimes they die.

i like to have the alarm power a 4pdt relay. i hook extra sirens from the relay.and fuse each with a 2.5 amp fuse. that way if its going off and someone cuts the siren wire (that might easily blow the alarm circuit).

it just pops the fuse for that siren and the others still wail.

alarm makers should have siren fuses inline..... but then if they did, you might not go alarm shopping soon.

they fuse the parking light wire.......hmmmm. they dont even list current draws on the box.

BTW...

DEI says 1 amp (550ESP) is the max load that should be used on the siren wire ...
revenger siren 1.1 amps
pain generator   .22 amps
5 generic minisirens(pain generators) simultaniously 1.1 amps

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

this may sound dumb, but have you checked if the system is in "silent" mode?

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

It says its not. I cant even get a chirp or reading on a dmm when you try to put it into programming menu mode.

depending the meter you have, most meters wont even register that siren chirp, as the DMM cannot read that quick. try to get another brain OR just use the horn output with a relay, set for constant output when triggered.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

what if you used the horn output setting with a 528T set to the max and used a siren on IT?

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

of course you would shut OFF the confirmation chirps all together.

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yuk
quiet rural missouri, near KC.
If your system moves you physically and not emotionally, you have wasted your money.

I haven't looked in depth for the new viper stuff, but you might be able to program the horn to function on lock/unlock/trunk/panic. I'm not certain, but i dont see why they wouldnt have it.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

An analog meter should be able to register fast enough to at least give you indication of a pulse if it is outputting anything.

Or wait for it, vindicated yet again, good old Snap-On test light.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

My fluke DMM says it's DOA and snap test light confirms?? I really think I'm running into a run of crap alarms. The 3rd one is being shipped to me now maybe it will be the charm I hope. I really want to get my brand new truck put back together one of these day's.

Guys I finally got it working tonight 6 months and 3 alarms later and my lord it was a wth moment when I finally fixed it.

The place I bought my original alarm from Wholesale alarms on ebay is now defunct. But they only went under after I sent them my third failed unit. So I purchased the identical clifford from a friend who runs a local shop here. Put it in tonight and same stinking thing dead siren.

I feel like a complete newbie complete idiot now. When I installed it I simply connected all of the wires as normal. When I performed all the troubleshooting I went off of the position in the connectors where the wires were located without cross comparing it to the wire color vs pin number in the damm instructions.

Guess what DEI's made in china monkeys put the WHITE/ brown tracer in pin 3 where the siren should have been and the siren in pin 4 where the park light isolation wire should have been located.

I spent 2 hours going overr every wire color vs location in connector shell to verify everything and I stumbled upon a factory screw up that made me feel like a complete moron.

Thanks for the help.

Another welcome member to my "bring back the old style US made Clifford club".
I only ever found two mistakes on the old Cliffords, G1-G4, aux outputs labelled the wrong way round and no provision for indicators rather than lights on the old Solaris cured with 2 x 1N5404 diodes.
Never had a wrong-un.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Damm do I miss the cliffords of the early 90's they were some bullet proof alarms. I actually still have a friend that bought a 96 camaro new while we were in high school I installed a clifford remote start and smart windows module. Soldered and heat shrinked everything and the sucker still works beautifully today. But it's getting hard as hell to find remotes for it as they fail. He's been buying one at a time off ebay as he finds them.

I have about 10, Eagle II type onwards, trouble is the UK version (green LED) wasn't compatible with the US version.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.