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cranks but no start python 1401/pkall

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130765
Printed Date: June 09, 2024 at 12:25 PM


Topic: cranks but no start python 1401/pkall

Posted By: kog506
Subject: cranks but no start python 1401/pkall
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 1:14 AM

I have had the RS for a week and half now but I have been experiencing a problem. Sometimes the remote start cranks forever but engine will not fire up. This happened 2 days ago, That morning the engine fired right up(~30 degrees). Later in the day when the weather was warm ~60 degrees. I remote start it and it would not fire seems like as if the immobilizer was active. So i chose to use the key and no problem. Then i shut it down to try the remote start again and it did same thing, crank but engine didnt not fire up. So later that night I tried the RS and if fired up. That problem I experienced happened again today, with same scenario. Do you know what is going on? I suspect the bypass (PKALL)



Replies:

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 6:43 AM
It's usually easier for us to give you an idea might what be wrong if you could mention what kind of car this is.

Regardless, a quick/easy first step would be to look at the PKALL while activating the remote starter. Does the LED on the PKALL light up during attempted remote start?




Posted By: kog506
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 6:51 AM
Chris Luongo wrote:

It's usually easier for us to give you an idea might what be wrong if you could mention what kind of car this is.

Regardless, a quick/easy first step would be to look at the PKALL while activating the remote starter. Does the LED on the PKALL light up during attempted remote start?


Its a 2000 toyota avalon XLS.
I know for sure when it successfully start up the pkall light up. But I havent able to access the pkall when im experience the problem.




Posted By: advanced
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 9:01 AM

Sounds like a tach learning issue.

Did you hook up the tach wire directly or are you using virtual tach? If you have ran a wire, try relearning the tach.

I always,always use a tach wire & never have a problem.

Tach wire should be easy to access. It is listed as a black wire in a gray plug in drivers kick panel, in harness going up to the instrument cluster. Otherwise go directly to a coil or fuel injector.



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Good Enough Isn't!




Posted By: kog506
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 11:01 AM
advanced wrote:

Sounds like a tach learning issue.


Did you hook up the tach wire directly or are you using virtual tach? If you have ran a wire, try relearning the tach.


I always,always use a tach wire & never have a problem.


Tach wire should be easy to access. It is listed as a black wire in a gray plug in drivers kick panel, in harness going up to the instrument cluster. Otherwise go directly to a coil or fuel injector.




Its using virtual tach, I guess I can connect it directly to the tach wire when the weather is better.




Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 11:03 AM
Next time it doesn't start, put the head of the key near the ignition barrel and see if it starts. That will tell you if it is bypass related or something else.

Did you connect both ignition wires from the vehicle? Are they connected separately or tied together to a single output of the r/s?

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 12:00 PM
If it's a tach issue, you don't have to wait for better weather it's pin 9 on your under dash OBD II aka data connector.
Hello Kenny, still convalescing, no work until the middle of next week.
At least I'm still breathing.
I'm also guessing from the first post that it isn't tach although I would tend to agree with advanced, I'm guessing poor wiring or poor programming to the by-pass.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: kog506
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 1:09 PM
offroadzj wrote:

Next time it doesn't start, put the head of the key near the ignition barrel and see if it starts. That will tell you if it is bypass related or something else.

Did you connect both ignition wires from the vehicle? Are they connected separately or tied together to a single output of the r/s?


I forgot to mention this, the first time it happened, I tried putting the key in the ignition and it did not fire up the engine using the RS (I guess its not the bypass that is causing the problem?). and the Ignition wires/wiring are connected to the bypass and from bypass to the RS using D2D.




Posted By: kog506
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 1:16 PM
howie ll wrote:

If it's a tach issue, you don't have to wait for better weather it's pin 9 on your under dash OBD II aka data connector.
Hello Kenny, still convalescing, no work until the middle of next week.
At least I'm still breathing.
I'm also guessing from the first post that it isn't tach although I would tend to agree with advanced, I'm guessing poor wiring or poor programming to the by-pass.


Thanks! and I don't think its bad wiring (Even though its still possible) I solder the H3 harness and someone other ones. The ones I did not solder, I used the wire splice.

Oh yeah! This morning it was about ~58 degrees and the car started up normally. So its not a weather issue? So I am leaning towards the tach wire. need to connect it the car wiring and not the car ground.




Posted By: buddholly
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 1:47 PM

It's a known problem on the newer directed units to lose power to the bypass when using D2D, you can either cut the 12v wire on the d2d cable and hardwire straight to 12v, or just ditch the d2d and go w2w. 



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Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 2:21 PM
that vehicle has
1-start
2-ign
1-acc
are you sure you powered everything up? since we narrowed it down to be a non-bypass issue (as you stated you tried to start with key in the cylinder) its most likely wiring. on the next failed start, turn the key to the ign position and attempt to remote start. if it starts you have missed an ignition wire.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: kog506
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 3:27 PM
Okay so it happened again. Its because of the bypass. I tested by sitting in the car and RS using the key fob. The engine immbolization light in the instrument cluster did not turn off. It kept flashing while the remote start was cranking. I guess the i need to do the W2W instead of D2D.




Posted By: kog506
Date Posted: February 29, 2012 at 11:10 PM
I haven't fix it yet by it seems like it start up w/o any problem if weather is colder?. I RS start it earlier ~3 hours ago. 61 Degrees. >:-(




Posted By: offroadzj
Date Posted: March 01, 2012 at 6:06 AM
yes, try changing to w2w and reprogramming it to the car. This is exactly why I HATE d2d with dei units. Its very unreliable... where-as a few extra minutes during install would have saved a ton of headache.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205





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