viper 5704 in a 02 rendezvous

The install- its a viper 5704 (new 5901) with an xpresskit xk06 loaded with dlpkgm. It is going into an 02 buick rendezvous.

I installed the 5901 in my fleetwood but my memory is a little foggy.

1. Diodes- will the door locks be the only place I need diodes?2. Flex relay- from what I have gathered this is used in some ignition switches, mainly toyota or nissan. Will this be something I need to hook up or do I just leave these out?3. Has anyone ever done anything d2d? It says I only need to hook up one wire from the xk06 module and it will control my door locks, hatch release, ac, rear defrost and possibly other things? So would this mean I attach this wire from the module to the car and I don't have to hook up any of these features on the alarm?Any input would be greatly appreciated.
If I left out any pertinent let me know and I will get it on here as soon as I can. Thanks

Sorry, I am not a big XPressKit user, buy I can't find an install guide for an XK06 flashed with DLPKGM firmware
anywhere.  The XK09 lists that firmware but does not support the Rendezvous.  There is the DEI DLPKGM bypass
module ( OEM'd by Fortin ) listed for the Rendezvous but it only handles the locks, bypass, parking lights and
supplies a Tach signal.  Even plugged in an XK06 to the XKLoader2 and looked for 2002 Rendezvous firmwares.
The only XK06 firmware listed for the Rendezvous was PKG5 and that only does the bypass function. 

Could you supply a link for the XK06 w/DLPKGM firmware install guide?

Anyway, the vehicle has two ignition wires, one starter wire and two accessory wires.  You will need the Vipers
Pink/White flex relay output for the Ignition2 wire and could possible leave the Brown ACC2 wire un-powered.  It
would be simple enough to install a 30/40 Amp controlled by the Vipers (-)200ma Orange Accessory Output to
power the vehicles Brown ACC2 wire.

The door locks are a one-wire system, Unlock is straight ground and Lock is ground thru a 470 ohm resistor.  You might
get away with direct connections or maybe adding diodes will help.  Audiovox suggests using relays to "enhance" the
ground signal.  A DEI 451M lock module might be required and it comes with the resistor needed.

 

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Soldering is fun!

Sorry it is an xk09 and on the back it says dlpkgm. The box says soleX series. So your saying this isn't the correct module for my car? No wonder i couldn't find the manual online...I just checked my email from ordering and I did order the DLPKGM but received an xk09. Though when I go to xpresskits manual download it has 03-07 rendezvous. Hopin it is the same for the 02. Thanks for all the info.

So with the dlpkgm I will run the d2d connector to the module and the alarm. The only wires from the dlpkgm are 1 data wire to the car and igntion to the car and tach to the alarm, is this correct? Then I wouldnt to have to worry about the door locks, bypass, parking lights and tach wires from the alarm to car. I shouldn't need any diodes for this setup, right?

Just double checked the XK09 w/DLPKGM firmware.  Neither the general availability V2.05
or the beta V2.07 list the Rendevous ( or it's cousin Aztek ).  There is a big difference
between the DEI XK09 and the Fortin oem'd DLPKGM bypass module.  Perhaps another forum
member has experience with that vehicle and the XK09.  Best bet would be a call to DEI
to verify that module / firmware combination will work before taking the dash apart.  I
remember doing a few early Azteks with a spare key, 556UW and hardwiring the rest.

If you are going by this installation guide ( for the actual DLPKGM module )  : 
https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=5950&productid=125&firmwareid=1633
You will find that the modules' connectors shown in the diagram do not match up with your
XK09 module. 

To answer the D2D question ( using the above install guide ), yes, no need for diodes
( or relays ) for the door locks.  Note that the Tach signal would still need to be
hardwired between the bypass and the Viper.  Also, the bypass Pink Ignition wire can be
connected to the viper's H3 Pink Ignition wire which would continue to the vehicle's
Pink Ignition wire at the ignition switch.

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Soldering is fun!

Great....so I wrote techronics.com (where I purchased alarm and module) and told them my bill said dlpkgm but I received the xk09 and here's what I got in response " The DLPKGM has been discontinued, the XK09 is the direct replacement and does the same things." Funny thing is the dlpkgm still shows in stock on their website and they charged me for the dlpkgm. Fun fun.

Well, now there saying it doesn't work for my car and they're going to have their returns department contact me...
Btw kreg thank you so much for your help. Bear with me as I may need some more help but I think I'm starting to get it.

I can't find a dlpkgm. Will the DB ALL work? It looks like from xpresskits website it does and it controls more options?

Absolutely.  See if they won't give you the DB-ALL flashed with the 401.GM5 firmware for the same price, seeing as all the trouble they put you through...

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I doubt they charge anything for flashing it but its on their website for the price I paid for the dlpkg. Nice

I got the DBALL in the mail today. It's nice, I have the d2d cable, J1850, and RAP Off to hook up. I just would like to clarify some things to make sure I do this right.

 On the heavy gauge connector, I have an ignition 1 input/output and a (+) (30A) fused Ignition 1 Relay input, what is the difference. The Ignition 2/flex relay input 87 is the polarity feed for ig.2/flex relay, does this mean solder this to positve for a positive output and ground for a negative output?? So since my car has a green (+) wire on ignition 2 this wire is soldered to positive so the Ignition 2 output is positive?

On the Aux/shutdown/trigger harness I have H2/3 blue/white (-200mA) 2nd status/rear defogger unit. What is the 2nd status? Aside from that I can hook this to a relay then to the wire that powers the rear defogger? And I would use a diode or none because I was going into a relay and not into the car?

I ordered a XKloader2 because they didn't load any firmware on the DBALL. Are they hard to use? Am I going to be able to download the firmware off of xpresskits site?

Thanks again for all your help.

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT       Pink @ Ignition Switch Harness IGN1
H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) FLEX RELAY IN    Orange @ Ignition Switch Harness +12V
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT                     Orange @ Ignition Switch Harness ACC
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)        Yellow @ Ignition Switch Harness - Cut
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE) Yellow @ Ignition Switch Harness - Cut
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT            Orange @ Ignition Switch Harness +12V
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUT   Green @ Ignition Switch Harness IGN2
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A            Not Used
H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACC/STARTER IN Red @ Ignition Switch Harness +12V
H3/10 NC (no connection) NC     Not Used

Be aware that there are two Orange wires in the Ignition Switch Harness.  One will test as Accessory and the other
should be +12V constant.  Bulldog lists a Red and Orange +12V constant wires at the ignition switch harness, DEI
and Audiovox do not.  DEI lists two wires at the center console fuse box for +12V constant.
12volts    red (60A), red (60A)  (+)      center console fuse box, rear, gray 68 pin plug, pins F12 and F3
Depending on what you find ( via DMM testing ), split the 4 Red and RED / xxxx +12V constant input wires from the
Viper between the available +12V constant sources.

H3 harness basics
1. Any wire with Red in it goes to +12V constant
2. H3/5 is not mandatory.  If you don't want Starter Kill / Anti-Grind, don't connect this wire and don't cut the vehicles Starter wire.
3. H3/7 is the Flex relay output.  Program Menu 3, Item 8 to desired igntion signal ( IGN2, ACC2, Starter2 ). Factory Default = IGN2.

H3/2 is the input source for the Flex relay ( H3/7 ).  H3/6 is the input source for H3/1.  H3/9 is the input source for H3/3 & H3/4.

 H2/3 blue/white (-200mA) 2nd status/rear defogger    This is a selectable/programmable output.  Factory Default is 2nd Status
which is the same as the Vipers' DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT.  Through programming it can be configured as a Defrost
control output ( either pulsed or latched ) in Menu 3, Item 11.

The XKLoader2 is easy to use.  You will need to download some things ( VIP4 ) from the XPressKit site to get the all the necessary
files.  You might also have to register to be able to download any Beta firmware.  Registration is free and un-restricted.  There is pretty
good documentation on the site for XKLoader2 use.

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Soldering is fun!

Well I got it hooked up and cranked the car up for the first time since puttin a rebuilt tranny in it. After foolin around with it for a bit, I've got the alarm functioning, its operating the hatch and informs me when the hatch or hood is open, door locks/unlock works. The only issues I've come across are these...
1. No remote start. It acts like it wants to but doesn't. Didn't notice and "light flashes"/relay clicks for a reason why its not working. Tried with key in ignition and without. Got late so didn't get to put a meter on it yet. Car starts with key just fine.

2. No parking light. I didn't hook up this relay yet. I have the 4 wires I think I need just not sure what pins to plug them to on relay. I am using a spst (should be good for a negative trigger right?) I have a wire from the alarm, a 12v+, a ground, and I tapped into the blue wire on the headlight switch. Any help on what goes where wsould be greatly appreciated.

3. Mini piezo siren inside the car is not working. I will have to double check my wiring on that one. And retest the siren. It worked before installed.

Thanks again for everyones help. This site has been a valuable resource.

No start or crank :
Assuming your vehicle has an Automatic Transmission ( think all Rendezvous were autos ).
1. Did you program the Viper to Auto Trans?  Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 2
2. Did you connect the Neutral Safety wire to chassis ground or the EBrake?
3. Did you connect the Vipers' Neutral Safety Switch and set in to the ON position?
4. If you plan on running in Tach Mode, did you change the programming ( Menu 3, Item 2, Opt 4 ) and perform the Tach Learn process?

Parking Light :
You can either connect the Viper to the (+) signal or (-) signal.  Here is wire info from DEI :
Parking Lights(+)    brown  (+)     BCM, gray 24 pin plug, pin B3 
Parking Lights(-)     lt. blue  (-)     BCM, gray 16 pin plug, pin A6 or at Headlight Switch

Set the Viper internal Parking Light jumper/fuse to the correct position ( + or - ) and connect the H1/5 White wire directly to the corresponding
wire in the vehicle.  H1/4 is not used.  No external relay is needed.

 

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Soldering is fun!

It is automatic
1. Programmed it to auto
2. I did hook this to ground, will need to put a meter on and make sure connection is good.
3. This is connected and set to on (tried on. And off)
4. I think I set it to virtual tach, could I change this because the dball?

This actuall crossed my mind that I just hook the wire straight to parking light switch and not use a relay but I wasn't sure. I will give this a shot tonight. Thanks for everything Kreg

The DB-ALL shows that it does supply a Tach signal.  You could set it to Tach Mode and try a Tach Learn.  If it does successfully learn the tach signal you should be OK.  Can't remember if the Rendezvous had one touch start, if it does, Virtual Tach or even fixed crank time would be OK also.

The Viper should give Shutdown Diagnostics after a failed remote start to help define the problem.

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Parking lights worked, got the siren goin. Still having trouble with remote start. Neutral safety wire is grounded, alarm is set to automatic. N.safety switch is in on position (with it off, I get an immediate error on remote). Changed the system to tachometer and followed procedure for learning tach. Still no luck. The lights flash once in between each start (so each time I hit button it trys 3 times and the light flashes each time) no other light flashes. Thanks

This might help determine the problem.

Remote Start Shutdown/Startup Diagnostics
Shutdown diagnostics: If the remote start activates but fails to stay running, the remote start module has the
ability to inform you of what may have caused the remote start failure. Before performing shutdown diagnostics
it is important that you let the remote start shut off on its own i.e. let it attempt to start 3 times then shut
down, if this is not done the unit will report the shutdown you used to shut off the remote start.
Note: Shutdown diagnostics does not report if the vehicles factory immobilizer is causing the problem.
To perform shutdown diagnostics:
1. With the ignition Off, press and hold the Control button (on Control Center).
2. Turn the ignition On and then back Off while holding the Control button.
3. Release the Control button.
4. Press and release the Control button. The status LED flashes to report the last shutdown for one minute or
until the ignition is turned on, as shown in the following table:

Status LED Flashes Shutdown Mode
1 flash Runtime expired
2 flashes Over-rev shutdown
3 flashes Low or no RPM
4 flashes Transmitter shutdown (or optional push button)
5 flashes (+) Brake shutdown
6 flashes (-) Hood shutdown
7 flashes Timer mode/Turbo mode/Manual mode error *
8 flashes Neutral safety shutdown
9 flashes Low battery (voltage mode)
10 flashes Alarm triggered **
11 flashes Wait-to-start input timed out
* Timer mode error: Ignition is on or shutdown input is active when activating timer mode.
  Turbo mode error: Turbo mode is programmed off, engine is not on or shutdown input is active.
  Manual mode error: MTS mode not enabled.
** Alarm was triggered during remote start sequence.

Startup Diagnostics: If the vehicle fails to activate the remote start, the remote start module will notify you via
your Responder HD 2-way remote control and will flash the parking lights on the vehicle to notify you of what
caused the no-start situation.
Parking Light Flashes
5 flashes Brake wire is active
6 flashes Hood pin wire is active
7 flashes Manual transmission mode is enabled and not initialized.
8 flashes Neutral safety wire has no ground or the neutral safety switch is Off.

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So I would go by the startup because it isn't remote starting at all. If I hit remote start and it starts going through the motions and then I hit the brakes, it stops and the remote says remote start error. if I hold the brakes and hit start the remote immediately says remote start error and flashes 5 times. If I open the hood and hit start the remote immediately says remote start error and headlights flash 6 times. I checked continuity between ground and the neutral safety wire pin at the alarm and its grounded. I verified it is on automatic trans. Here is what I'm reading on the heavy gauge connector
H3/1-     12V when ignition on and start
H3/2-     12V constant
H3/3-     12V when ignition on
H3/4-      12V when start
H3/5-      12V when start
H3/6-      12V constant
H3/7-       12V when ignition on and start
H3/8-       not used
H3/9-       12V constant


What am I missing here?? Car starts great, every time with key, rest of alarm is functioning as it should. it won't remote start with key in ignition. It doesn't flash any after all 3 trys just once for each try

I don't think its related but I didn't hook up the RAP off from the DBALL. Is this wire really necessary?

RAP shutdown should not be causing any problems with a remote start.

H3/3 should also drop during start/crank output.

Verify that H3/4 Violet is connected to the vehicle side of the cut Yellow Starter wire and that H3/5 Green is connected to the key
side of the cut Yellow Starter wire.
 
Last resort would be to switch to W2W mode between the Viper and the DB-ALL.  This will aid in troubleshooting the problem.

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H3 does drop when started. So if I switched to w2w I would have to hook everything up? :( doesn't sound like fun. if I'm gettin 12V out of starter wire, why isn't it starting or at least attempting to? Would this mean its something with the car?? Thanks again.

Great. I drove for about an hour today and when I got home, none of the dball functions are working. Looks like I've still got a lot to do...

Time to double check all your connections.  Everything some be securely soldered and well insulated.  Make sure all the connector plugs are fully seated and latched in place.

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Well I reprogrammed the db all and its fine again. Wonder what would cause it to "forget"?? Now back to the alarm. If I'm gettin 12v out of the starter wire (to starter) when I hit the remote start button, does this tell me its something on the car side, meaning that its nothing on the alarm side? How can I test to see if I hook up a tach wire if that will fix it?

As a test you could just set the Viper to Engine Checking OFF and select a fixed 1.0 second crank time.

Here are a couple of alternate Tach sources.  Connect the Viper VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE directly to the
source listed and do the Tach Learn Procedure. 

Bulldog Security :
TACH   PURPLE / WHITE (AC)    @ IGNITION COIL

DEI :
Tachometer    NOT pink  (ac)     @ any fuel injector

Also verify the Vipers D2D jumpers are set in the horizontal position.

Of course, if the Viper is already outputting the Starter H3/4 Violet +12V signal during a remote start attempt and you
tried a remote start with the ignition key in the cylinder ( but not turned )......

Perhaps you could list your Viper H3 to vehicle connections very explicitly, even a photo.  That might help.  Also
detail the vehicle sequence during remote start. ( Dash lights, starter motor, etc.  There is some DB-ALL diagnostics listed on the
next to last page of the install guide that might help, too.)

As for switching from D2D to W2W, it might resolve/prevent the issue you had where it worked for a while, stopped working
and had to be re-programmed to the vehicle.

 

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Soldering is fun!