code alarm ca6225
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131243
Printed Date: May 10, 2024 at 4:15 PM
Topic: code alarm ca6225
Posted By: topless stang
Subject: code alarm ca6225
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 9:17 AM
Im trying to install the alarm/remote start in the title and I also picked up the FLCAN to use as a bypass. I believe I'm ready to go, but I have a couple questions for the gurus here.
Is a Tach wire necessary?
Do I have to install the pin switch?
Do I need the Neutral safety wire, does it get that i fo from the FLCAN or can I just ground that (I have an automatic)?
Is the 'ground when armed output' connection needed?
Also everything is accounted for, but there was a relay left over. I'm assuming it's for the starter kill/anti-grind. The book mentions cutting the starter 1 wire, but doesn't show the connections made to the 4 wires on the relay. Any help would be appreciated. thanks!
Replies:
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 9:19 AM
I forgot to mention, this is going in a 2007 Mazda5.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 9:38 AM
The Tach Mode is usually the most reliable method of remote starting
a vehicle. Here is the Tach wire info from DEI :
Tach NOT BLACK/ Green, Black, or GREEN/ Blue (ac) @ any ignition coil or fuel injector
The Hood Pin is an important safety feature and should be connected.
The supplied hood pin switch might not be necessary if you car has a
factory installed switch. Check the car for it and then test / verify
this wiring listed in the DEI wiring guide :
Hood Pin Gray/Red (-) @ pin switch or BCM, 16 pin plug, pin 1A
The FLCAN only does the transponder bypass function and does not supply
a Neutral Safety signal. You can either connect to the EBrake (-) or
chassis ground.
The Starter Kill is optional. Here are the generic relay wiring diagrams :
https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 1:39 PM
kreg357 wrote:
The Tach Mode is usually the most reliable method of remote starting
a vehicle. Here is the Tach wire info from DEI :
Tach NOT BLACK/ Green, Black, or GREEN/ Blue (ac) @ any ignition coil or fuel injector
The Hood Pin is an important safety feature and should be connected.
The supplied hood pin switch might not be necessary if you car has a
factory installed switch. Check the car for it and then test / verify
this wiring listed in the DEI wiring guide :
Hood Pin Gray/Red (-) @ pin switch or BCM, 16 pin plug, pin 1A
The FLCAN only does the transponder bypass function and does not supply
a Neutral Safety signal. You can either connect to the EBrake (-) or
chassis ground.
The Starter Kill is optional. Here are the generic relay wiring diagrams :
https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page2.asp
Now that was quick! I saw that diagram right after I posted, and it generated another question lol....
The orange wire says 'From Alarm (-) When Disarmed'. Would this be the Orange wire on the 6 pin output harness? That's what it's labeled as in he book and it is an output harness, but I just wanted to be sure.... I'm assuming the Pink is going to the Ignition(+) wire on the ignition column. The Black wire goes to the Ignition Switch side of the cut Starter wire and the WHITE/ black wire goes to the Motor side of the cut Starter. If I use the starter relay do I use the stand alone wire from the alarm brain also? If so do I need to connect the Purple Starter (+) wire on the starter harness?
What connection is the Pulse During Crank? There is also a Pulse After shutdown connection that is used to relink doors, does that just get connected to the door lock connection?
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 2:21 PM
First, let me state that I am not a CodeAlarm installer and am not
real familiar with their specifics. I can't find an install guide for
the CA6225 you mentioned. Possibly it is a CA6552? Anyway...
Yes, the CA6552 Orange GWA wire is the correct one to use for Starter
Kill. The Pink wire in the diagram goes to the CA6552 thick Pink
Ignition wire ( which continues to the vehicles Blue Ignition wire ).
Too confusing... Here is the relay wiring :
Relay Pin 85 to CA6552 ORANGE GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT (-)
Relay Pin 86 to CA6552 PINK IGNITION 1 (+) (which continues to the vehicles Blue Ignition wire)
Relay Pin 87A to cut key switch side of vehicles BLACK/ Blue Starter wire
Relay Pin 30 to cut vehicle side of vehicles BLACK/ Blue Starter wire AND
CA6552 thick PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT ( both wires connected to Pin 30 )
The CA6552 GREEN / WHITE wire may not be necessary on your vehicle. It can be
used for several things like RAP shutdown, lock after shutdown, etc. Here is the
description from the install guide :
This wire will supply a ( - ) 200mA pulse after the remote start shuts down. This
is typically used to re-lock the vehicle’s doors if they unlock upon remote start
shutdown. It can also be used to pulse a door pin-switch wire to prevent the
vehicle’s accessories from remaining on after remote start shutdown.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 3:08 PM
kreg357 wrote:
First, let me state that I am not a CodeAlarm installer and am not
real familiar with their specifics. I can't find an install guide for
the CA6225 you mentioned. Possibly it is a CA6552? Anyway...
Yes, the CA6552 Orange GWA wire is the correct one to use for Starter
Kill. The Pink wire in the diagram goes to the CA6552 thick Pink
Ignition wire ( which continues to the vehicles Blue Ignition wire ).
Too confusing... Here is the relay wiring :
Relay Pin 85 to CA6552 ORANGE GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT (-)
Relay Pin 86 to CA6552 PINK IGNITION 1 (+) (which continues to the vehicles Blue Ignition wire)
Relay Pin 87A to cut key switch side of vehicles BLACK/ Blue Starter wire
Relay Pin 30 to cut vehicle side of vehicles BLACK/ Blue Starter wire AND
CA6552 thick PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT ( both wires connected to Pin 30 )
The CA6552 GREEN / WHITE wire may not be necessary on your vehicle. It can be
used for several things like RAP shutdown, lock after shutdown, etc. Here is the
description from the install guide :
This wire will supply a ( - ) 200mA pulse after the remote start shuts down. This
is typically used to re-lock the vehicle’s doors if they unlock upon remote start
shutdown. It can also be used to pulse a door pin-switch wire to prevent the
vehicle’s accessories from remaining on after remote start shutdown.
You are correct sir, I haven't really slept since Thursday night lol. It's my wife's badly on Tuesday and I'm installing this alarm and also installing a new deck, amp, speakers and subs. Finished the audio buildout a little bit ago and I'm now in planning stages for alarm install. Your help has been great! One last thing...that GREEN / WHITE wire...if that's not installed will the alarm still unlock the doors?
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 3:16 PM
Also, what size resistor do I use for the door lock connection? It says 1k ohm, but what wattage?
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 3:34 PM
The Ca6552 uses its' 3 Pin Lock Output Harness with these wires to interface
with the vehicles locks :
1 BLUE UNLOCK ( - )
2 OPEN
3 GREEN LOCK ( - )
Does the Mazda5 have the Factory alarm system? If you do have the Factory
Alarm, you will have to connect the CA6552s' Arm and Disarm outputs to the
vehicle and might find that they also lock and unlock the doors. Here is a
link to the DEI wiring info for your car :
https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Mazda&model=Mazda5
If you don't have the Factory Alarm and must connect to the one-wire door
lock wire, relays are necessary and the 1,000 ohm resistor is typically
1/4 Watt rated. If you don't already have the relays, see about a DEI 451M
module. It comes with the resistor, too. They can be had for less than $10. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 4:44 PM
kreg357 wrote:
The Ca6552 uses its' 3 Pin Lock Output Harness with these wires to interface
with the vehicles locks :
1 BLUE UNLOCK ( - )
2 OPEN
3 GREEN LOCK ( - )
Does the Mazda5 have the Factory alarm system? If you do have the Factory
Alarm, you will have to connect the CA6552s' Arm and Disarm outputs to the
vehicle and might find that they also lock and unlock the doors. Here is a
link to the DEI wiring info for your car :
https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Mazda&model=Mazda5
If you don't have the Factory Alarm and must connect to the one-wire door
lock wire, relays are necessary and the 1,000 ohm resistor is typically
1/4 Watt rated. If you don't already have the relays, see about a DEI 451M
module. It comes with the resistor, too. They can be had for less than $10.
I don't believe it had an alarm...I know it had keyless entry and the panic button worked, but that's it I believe. If the factory connection is there can I just connect to that? I was also looking over the FLCAN instructions and it said that two keys are required, but in step 4 it says if the light turns green after using one key then programming is complete...I'm kinda confused on that one....
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 4:59 PM
Thanks for that link...looks like that relay can be had at Best Buy for $10...I was afraid I was going to have to order it lol....and you say it already has the resistor soldered in? Is the wiring diagram for that somewhere on here or in the book? The book has one listed for reverse polarity locks, but it shows two relays. One on lock and one on unlock, but the wonderful page you sent me to only says to use it on The lock wire. The relay diagram says the relay uses +12v, green lock output wire(coming from alarm brain) and to cut the door lock motor wire and use that on 87a & 30, is that correct?
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 5:00 PM
BTW, Thanks for that link, it's great! I can't edit my post or I would have added it in.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 5:28 PM
The DEI 451M comes with a resistor pack with many of the most common resistors included. With it you
should have no problems with the locks. A 1,000 ohm resistor is available at RadioShack also. However,
you could try a direct connection with the Lock wire to see if that works. You can try a direct connection
with the Unlock wire through a 1K ohm resistor, also. You might get away with it or even add a 1N4004
diode to see if that works and you don't need relays. The CA6552 shows a diagram with relays for this
style vehicle lock system on Page 18 of the install guide ( Negative Multiplex Locks ) and DEI does recommend
using relays. Here is a link to the 451M install guide : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726
See Wiring Diagram Type H
The FLCAN bypass module should be flashed with the FLC-AL(TB)-FM2 (V3.22) firmware. Hopefully the seller
did this for you. You can check the white label on the box to see which firmware it left the factory with.
The current FLCAN w/FLC-AL(TB) FM2 firmware install guide is #8786 dated 3/16/12. The wiring
connections are pretty basic. It appears that you can connect the FLCAN to the CA6552 via the D2D harness.
This will save only 3 wire connections ( shown in orange dashed lines ). It looks like you will need two working,
non-clone, keys to successfully program the bypass module to the vehicle. If you go D2D, remember to set the
FLCAN's install mode to Data ( one blink ) as shown on Page 12, prior to actual vehicle programming with the
keys shown on Page 13. If you do only need one key to program, it will be evident at Step 3. Older PATS
immobilizer systems only needed 1 key to program the bypass, while newer PATS systems need two keys. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 22, 2012 at 10:22 PM
kreg357 wrote:
The DEI 451M comes with a resistor pack with many of the most common resistors included. With it you
should have no problems with the locks. A 1,000 ohm resistor is available at RadioShack also. However,
you could try a direct connection with the Lock wire to see if that works. You can try a direct connection
with the Unlock wire through a 1K ohm resistor, also. You might get away with it or even add a 1N4004
diode to see if that works and you don't need relays. The CA6552 shows a diagram with relays for this
style vehicle lock system on Page 18 of the install guide ( Negative Multiplex Locks ) and DEI does recommend
using relays. Here is a link to the 451M install guide : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726
See Wiring Diagram Type H
The FLCAN bypass module should be flashed with the FLC-AL(TB)-FM2 (V3.22) firmware. Hopefully the seller
did this for you. You can check the white label on the box to see which firmware it left the factory with.
The current FLCAN w/FLC-AL(TB) FM2 firmware install guide is #8786 dated 3/16/12. The wiring
connections are pretty basic. It appears that you can connect the FLCAN to the CA6552 via the D2D harness.
This will save only 3 wire connections ( shown in orange dashed lines ). It looks like you will need two working,
non-clone, keys to successfully program the bypass module to the vehicle. If you go D2D, remember to set the
FLCAN's install mode to Data ( one blink ) as shown on Page 12, prior to actual vehicle programming with the
keys shown on Page 13. If you do only need one key to program, it will be evident at Step 3. Older PATS
immobilizer systems only needed 1 key to program the bypass, while newer PATS systems need two keys.
You were a godsend today! I believe I have everything I need and I'm ready to tackle it tonight after the wife and baby go to sleep. I soldered all connections that have the same connection points to each other and have them ready to go into the car later on.
I was looking around and pricing the FLPROG cable...that thing is expensive lol...have you (or anyone else reading) seen any used ones pop up for sale frequently?
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 12:57 AM
kreg357 wrote:
The DEI 451M comes with a resistor pack with many of the most common resistors included. With it you
should have no problems with the locks. A 1,000 ohm resistor is available at RadioShack also. However,
you could try a direct connection with the Lock wire to see if that works. You can try a direct connection
with the Unlock wire through a 1K ohm resistor, also. You might get away with it or even add a 1N4004
diode to see if that works and you don't need relays. The CA6552 shows a diagram with relays for this
style vehicle lock system on Page 18 of the install guide ( Negative Multiplex Locks ) and DEI does recommend
using relays. Here is a link to the 451M install guide : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726
See Wiring Diagram Type H
The FLCAN bypass module should be flashed with the FLC-AL(TB)-FM2 (V3.22) firmware. Hopefully the seller
did this for you. You can check the white label on the box to see which firmware it left the factory with.
The current FLCAN w/FLC-AL(TB) FM2 firmware install guide is #8786 dated 3/16/12. The wiring
connections are pretty basic. It appears that you can connect the FLCAN to the CA6552 via the D2D harness.
This will save only 3 wire connections ( shown in orange dashed lines ). It looks like you will need two working,
non-clone, keys to successfully program the bypass module to the vehicle. If you go D2D, remember to set the
FLCAN's install mode to Data ( one blink ) as shown on Page 12, prior to actual vehicle programming with the
keys shown on Page 13. If you do only need one key to program, it will be evident at Step 3. Older PATS
immobilizer systems only needed 1 key to program the bypass, while newer PATS systems need two keys.
Just looked at diagrams again. The 451m has a three plug harness similar to the one on the 6552, but it's backwards and also has an extra connection (red middle +12v). So I clipped the 451M harness off and did the same to the 6552 harness. I then soldered the blue to blue and the green to green coming from the 451M going to the 6552 harness. I did not connect the red wire as the 6552 manual says the middle connection on that 3 wire harness is not used. But looking at the wiring diagram for the negative multiplexed locks in the 6552 manual it shows a +12v connection between relays @ points 85 & 86. Is this red middle wire on the 3 wire 451M harness supposed to provide +12v? According to the 451M type H install the purple wire is connected to ground, the green is Lock & the blue is unlock, there is no +12v connection. I think this is my last hurdle. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again for the help so far!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 2:35 AM
Red has to go to a constant 12v+.
If you test your unit when it's powered up you will probably find that the middle pin is just that.
You could have left the plug as was just used lock as unlock and vice versa.
These products are made for professional installation, the guides on all the leading brands make assumptions for instance, knowing how to wire relays, diodes, etc and why you need relays with resistive multiplex locking systems, you know what status, GWA, and GWR are, thus beginners find the guides "bad" or make mistakes from lack of understanding.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 5:08 AM
As Howard points out, the center Red lead from the 451M goes to +12V constant. I just did the same thing you did, clipping the connectors and combining the lock wires between the R/S and the 451M modules for an install planned for later today. The Red wire was connected to a thick gauge +12V input wire to the R/S brain ( like the Red or RED / white wire on your CA6552 unit ). All that is left is the direct connection of the GREEN/ Black wire to the lock wire on the vehicle and the Blue/Black wire, through a 1k ohm resistor, connected to that same vehicle lock wire.
As for a FLPROG cable, they are rare to find used, but can be had new for around $50. It is the same as the iDatalink ADS USB cable. However, you must be a registered, authorized, verified dealer / installed to gain access to that area of the WEB site. https://www.flashlogic.com/ Click on the "Flash Your module" and then "Register a WEBLink Account" for more info.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 5:39 AM
Thanks for responding guys. I guess I'll either have to pay Worst Buy to get the Klon set up or buy another key from the dealer...whichever is cheaper....I just hopped back online to try to find a wiring diagram for my BCM. Looks like I'll also solder the +12v from the relay to one of the fat +12v wires.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 5:43 AM
I'm not familiar with the vehicle but just in case that BCM is a sleeper and shuts down, could I suggest fusebox main input constant or the ignition constant, fused 3-5 amps.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 6:19 AM
howie ll wrote:
I'm not familiar with the vehicle but just in case that BCM is a sleeper and shuts down, could I suggest fusebox main input constant or the ignition constant, fused 3-5 amps.
Will do. I found the diagram and the BCM, but I'm struggling trying to get it out so I can get at the wires/harnesses on the BCM.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 7:04 AM
Actually it's not the KLON process but just a firmware flash on the module. Some Best Buys are pretty helpful and will do it for free or a nominal fee. An alternative to the FLCAN is the PKALL bypass module ( $40 ). Link to PKALL info : https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=196------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 7:08 AM
kreg357 wrote:
Actually it's not the KLON process but just a firmware flash on the module. Some Best Buys are pretty helpful and will do it for free or a nominal fee. An alternative to the FLCAN is the PKALL bypass module ( $40 ). Link to PKALL info : https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=196
I have the right Faw flashed to the unit, but I. The install doc it says you have to connect it to a PC to use Klon. I'm having zero luck pulling out this BCM, my hats off to you guys who do this on the regular lol.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 7:31 AM
Which firmware / version is flashed on your FLCAN and what is the install guide document number? The KLON process shouldn't be necessary for your vehicle.
-------------
Soldering is fun!
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 7:41 AM
kreg357 wrote:
Which firmware / version is flashed on your FLCAN and what is the install guide document number? The KLON process shouldn't be necessary for your vehicle.
It said its needed if I only have one key. I have tb fm2 flashed to it. Have you any any experience removing the BCM on a Mazda5? I have been trying for hours and have had no luck with Internet searches or physically trying different things...
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 7:45 AM
Take a photo and post it.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 8:20 AM
Using iPad/iPhone, so I can't while I'm doing this. I think these bolts are just super tight. I'm going to go get some liquid wrench...the knockoff wd40 I have here isn't cutting the mustard....
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 23, 2012 at 9:13 PM
After I finished the first couple harnesses I connected the brain and battery to test. Everything was working so far, so I took a nap and had dinner....now I'm back at it. I had a question... What would you connect the Instant trigger wire to? I was thinking the trunk pin switch. Am I correct in thinking that the instant trigger will automatically trigger the alarm, no warning chirps and if the alarm is not armed the instant trigger does nothing if tripped?
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 1:29 AM
Looks like something's not right.....I finished all of the connections and thru testing I identified 2 problems.
1. The unit will unlock the doors, but will not lock them. It doesn't seem to matter if I have the 1k ohm resistor tied into the 451m lock wire or not.
2. Parking lights don't flash. I wired them up as positive using a +12v source, but Im guessing the polarity is negative so I'll try that next.
Hopefully I can get some idea around the locking issue. Also, this alarm is weird....my Viper chirps once for arm and twice for disarm but this Audiovox is different. It chips once for disarm and twice for arm...weird.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 1:55 AM
From your last post I'm wondering whether you have even read the instructions or tested anything in the car.
That's with reference to the lighting polarity and the locks not working.
Your approach is going to mean this $$$$$$
If you read your manual it will tell you about correct the chirp sequence, Cliffords always did 2 arm and one disarm, Viper the other way round. There's no convention here, depended on how the mnufacturer designed and built the alarm.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 1:56 AM
And yes, hood and trunk pin are instant triggers.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 2:04 AM
This is the lock wiring, similar to this picture though you only use the one resister and 2 x 1N4004 diodes:-
6CB_multiplex_via_relays.bmp------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 2:39 AM
I fixed the parking light issue, it was a bad splice connector. The lock issue remains. I even tried to use a new 1k resistor, but no joy. There is a 1k ohm resistor soldered in line on the green wire on the 451m and after the resistor the blue and green wires are connected together and the tied into the same lock wire. The connection has to be good sine it's locking properly...I'm at a loss....
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 2:45 AM
Ground the green between the resistor and the 451, see if that works.
N.B. Make sure you have your lock and unlocks the right way round.
You need to do a lot more testing.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 2:54 AM
I just tied a ground into the green wire between resistor and 451m. Everything else alarm wise seems to be working properly. I can't do the remote start until I pick up,another key, so I can't test that portion.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 3:05 AM
And did that unlock the car?
If it did the relay is at fault (almost impossible IMO), if it didn't you've done a bad joint.
P.S. How are you joining cables?
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 3:08 AM
Unlock is working fine, it's just not locking. I've used solder to connect harness wires that have the same point, direct wire. One tin with wire nuts at the ignition harness and quick splice connections at the BCM.
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 3:44 AM
I jus be sleepy...geez. The connections with the resistor and unlock/lock wires is all solder and quick splice to the wire at BCM.
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 4:07 AM
Ok, now I'm really confused. I disconnected the lock wire from the 451m, but the Unlock when disarming still works!! How is that even possible? Is it using the factory arm / factory disarm wire?
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 7:07 AM
Ok...so I went back and re-did all of my connections and it now locks! But now it won't unlock....when I put the key in the ignition the doors unlock though. Does that point to the factory disarm connection? I tested it and it seems good.
Posted By: topless stang
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 7:30 AM
I answered my own question, now I see why people don't recommend using quick splices. I'm confident now that everything is ok. It's Miller time!! But seriously thanks to both of you guys for all of your help, I wouldn't have got this done if it weren't for that. Now I'm off to flush mount some tweets and clean up / reassemble the car.
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: April 24, 2012 at 8:43 PM
That's good news. Glad it's all working correctly now. 
A quality solder connection is a thing of beauty and a joy to behold.  ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 25, 2012 at 4:45 AM
Especially when it's nice and shiny and smooth.
There's a wonderfully informative thread on "how to" in the General Discussion forum, read the first post.
Late this morning, went out to get a new bit for my Weller Pyropen and some 9.5mm (3/8") shrink for R/S work, I normally use 6.4mm (1/4") for butt connections on the thicker stuff but it won't make two of those cables easily.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
|
