remote start on a 1996 1998 jeep gc?

All the 455T does for you is control the doorlocks, and also arm/disarm the factory content-theft alarm when you lock/unlock the doors from an aftermarket remote.

Note that there is a difference between an alarm and an immobilizer. The alarm makes sounds/lights when people break in to steal your stuff; an immobilizer prevents the engine from starting without a valid key present. These two systems are independent; a given car may have one, both, or neither of these systems.

I think the Grand Cherokee pre-1999 has an optional alarm, but no immobilizer ever. I could be mistaken. But is the head of your ignition key gray or black? Only the gray keys have Chrysler's Sentry Key immobilizer.

So, from what I remember:

1. You can go ahead and install a remote starter without the 455T. The OEM Jeep alarm should automatically disarm when the remote starter starts the engine. (If you want to verify this, just arm the Jeep alarm, wait a minute, then reach in through the window and start the car with the key.)

2. The OEM Jeep remote will still work with the car off, but not with the engine running. So, after you activate the remote starter, you'd have to put the key in the door and turn it to unlock and get in.

3. If #2 above eventually makes you crazy, you can run wires into the driver's door and connect two relays there to lock/unlock that door. If you repeat this in the passenger door, it'll unlock all the back doors too. Quite a bit of work but that'll be your only option if you can't get a module.

Mine is a 1998, and has an alarm and immobiliser fitted as standard as I think all the 96-98 models do - if I open the door with either key (black, no transponder on these systems), the hazards start flashing. I presume the horn is meant to sound as well, but it's broken!

If I then attempt to start it - it'll run for two-three seconds before shutting the engine off. I have already disabled the (export only, I am in the UK) May & Scofield starter cut immobiliser (a separate module, the manufacturer was good enough to tell me how to do it!). So now I'm just left with the American-fitted immobiliser to bypass remotely. Nobody seems to know how to do it without the 455T - I've spent hours googling, and all the answers are "you can't"!

I find it a bit hard to believe, but no-one seems to have figured it out yet - the 455T interfaces with the Databus connection and used to be advertised as controlling the alarm, immobiliser, and door locks - which would be great, if I could find one!

Thanks for your help,

Patrick.

Here's a description of the system - it states that the VTSS system cannot be fitted to (export) models with the immobiliser fitted - however I and a few other UK people would beg to differ!

https://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl152i.htm

The immobiliser (export system) it mentions is easily disabled (I can post instructions how to in here, if that's allowed - as I mentioned, the manufacturers told me how to do it!) -  it stops cranking altogether.  However I am still stuck with the American immobiliser and alarm (albeit without horn!), which enables a short engine run before shutting down.

Both systems originally disarmed from the same keyfob, in tandem. I'd be happy to rip the American system out completely, there is little to no car theft where I live - particularly of cars with automatic gearboxes, as the evil little gremlins who steal cars only seem to drive stick - but if I have to add an aftermarket alarm as well as the remote start (or a combined system), then I will. But it seems the American system I am left with is tied into the databus system, which will not disarm it without the remote fob.

Any and all advice more than welcome!

	Battery		PINK/BLACK		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Ignition 1		DARK BLUE/GRAY		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	Starter 1		YELLOW/BLUE		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
	All Door Trigger
	LF Latch		TAN		(-)		AT BCM MODULE TO LEFT OF STEERING COLUMN BEHIND DASH
	RF Latch		TAN/RED		(-)		AT BCM MODULE TO LEFT OF STEERING COLUMN BEHIND DASH
	LR Latch		TAN/ORANGE		(-)		AT BCM MODULE TO LEFT OF STEERING COLUMN BEHIND DASH
	RR Latch		TAN / YELLOW		(-)		AT BCM MODULE TO LEFT OF STEERING COLUMN BEHIND DASH
	Alarm Disarm		VIOLET / YELLOW		(-)		DRIVER'S KICK PANEL "BLK PLUG" AT ECM
	Parking Lights		BLUE/RED		(+)		IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Yep, that was the first thing I tried! However it doesn't work for the 1996-1998 models, it only works up to the change in 1995 from an IR system to an RF system. All that happens if you ground the violet / YELLOW "disarm" wire is that the dome light comes on (and stays on, if you leave it grounded - flat battery the next day!)

I've removed that unit here in the UK on one of these.
It was behind the instrument panel and I simply chased the wires down and rejoined the cut wires.
Certainly wasn't tied in to the vehicle electrical system, CAN or otherwise and certainly shouldn't be on a US built vehicle (or Steyr in Austria for R/H/Drive models) of that vintage.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I suspect that was the export May and Scofield unit, located behind the light switch in RHD Grand Cherokees? - in their engineer's words,

"The wire numbers I mentioned were 21 and 22 on the Black 24 way connector these wires should be joined together, as I joined the company just after this product was designed I never fitted one to a veh so I cant advise on the location of the wires but I would assume it will be under the big fuse box

If you are fitting another alarm you may be able to remove the “link” looms 3 off and plug back into the body control module, when its all working you can tuck the looms with extra wires behind dash or remove carefully but only after you have proved all is well.

Pics 069 is a bcm and 303 is an alarm you might have a metal cased one but if so its not original as we fitted metal only on the early ones.

The key fob numbers are 04686255 and 56008969 these are interchangeable ( I don’t know why they made 2 fobs with the same electronics in and gave them different part numbers but  I have used them in place of each other)

I mention again that we didn’t control the remote entry on this model and you need a working fob to be able to start the veh as there is an American immobiliser on this veh..

Please note the removal or tampering with any security device on you veh may leave you with insurance issues."

This is purely to remove the starter cut that was added on to export vehicles (as a Thatcham requirement, in the case of UK vehicles)

All the wires were black, can't remember a unit behind the glovebox, I wasn't adding anything, just removing the alarm. If a starter cut then it's pretty easy to chase the wires and rejoin then test then kill it's power or remove it.
to satisfy Thatcham at the time, all black wiring, metal case, either cable tied or bolted down, 4 wires for 2 cuts, starter and ignition or fuel line,12V+ constant, 12V+ ignition, 2 x grounds (earths) actually EVERY Cat ll immobiliser was wired this way, just trace and test and remove.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

One thing bugs me here, export (UK R/H/drives) were assembled by Steyr in Austria, surely they'd have used a Euro sourced immobiliser for example the Japanese and rightly so were not hot on immobilisers (very little auto-crime in Japan) thus all Honda immobilisers came from Valeo in France, something similar at the time on Toyotas.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

---

All the wires were black, can't remember a unit behind the glovebox, I wasn't adding anything, just removing the alarm. If a starter cut then it's pretty easy to chase the wires and rejoin then test then kill it's power or remove it.
to satisfy Thatcham at the time, all black wiring, metal case, either cable tied or bolted down, 4 wires for 2 cuts, starter and ignition or fuel line,12V+ constant, 12V+ ignition, 2 x grounds (earths) actually EVERY Cat ll immobiliser was wired this way, just trace and test and remove.

---

Yep, the guy from M&S mentioned that all the wires would be black - but said that (on my year at least, 1998), all they added was a starter cut. Perhaps all the rest was already present on the US installed alarm/immob, and thus no need for the other cuts? Feel free to call me an idiot if that's a daft idea!

It does seem there were quite a few changes on these alarms through the years - if it turns out to be as simple as tracking down all the wires from the M&S unit I'll be delighted, but the fact that they have 2x 24 pin connectors, 2x 4 pin connectors, and one other connector on their alarm unit (can't attach pictures yet and am at work so can't access photobucket), makes me think there may be more to it than that on my 1998 unit?

I should mention that I have the build sheet for the Jeep, and the only things I can see on it that may be related to security (possibly as part of an option pack, etc) are as below -

ABBA European Equipment Group
ABES Export Equipment Group
ABUA United Kingdom Equipment Group
GXMP Remote Keyless Entry
YABS Build To Export Mkt. Specifications
4YBA Export Option Requirements

Well, as a quick update - I finally managed to buy a 455T from Ebay for $5! Plus 3 times that in shipping.

So I should be covered for all angles - Expect more questions soon, and thanks all for your help so fat!

Duh - so FAR, not so fat!

To add to this, can anyone reccomend a reasonably cheap, simple remote start to go with my new 455t? I don't need anything fancy - no alarm, no immob, as they are taken care of by the factory equipment. I'm happy to import from the US to the UK - boosting your economy here guys! 

All I really need is a r/s with as long a range as possible (I work in a steel framed/concrete floored office, auto-dimming glass, 2 floors up, 500+ people so fairly large car park), some indication that my Jeep has started - whether by a 2-way remote or just parking lights coming on that I can go to a window and see, and keyless entry.

The 455T should help out here, as all it really needs is a (-) from the starter module to disarm the factory alarm/immob so the Jeep can be started, it'll work the locks, etc. through the Databus.

I've looked at these two so far, but they still seem to have a lot more than I need - https://www./itm/Ultrastart-1280-XR-PRO-2800-Foto-Range-Remote-Start-System-With-Slim-Remotes-/300679280468?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4601e1b754

https://www./itm/Ultrastart-U1280TL-XR-PRO-2800-Foot-Car-Remote-Starter-Keyless-Entry-Ultra-Start-/300632443594?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45ff170aca&vxp=mtr

And have read (older) good reports on Ultrastart reliability - but they are a bit more than I actually need! I have a Ready Remote 24921 already, in it's box and unused, and it would be fine except for the limited range.

Would anyone care to suggest something, or should I just go with an Ultrastart basic model and leave the unwanted features disconnected?

Your opinions much appreciated.

Apologies, please free to delete Ebay links if they are not allowed. They are for an Ultrastart 1280 XR Pro, and an Ultrastart 1280 Pro. I didn't realise I wasn't allowed to post Ebay links.

A word of advice, or two buying electronics from fleabay? I don't think so, too many horror stories.
Second Ultrastart is an "unknown" don't go cheap you'll spend more long term.
There are much more reliable/known quality products available in the US, Compustar, Avox/Prestige/Code, DEI (Clifford, Viper etc.), Autopage.
Just one look at the Ultrastart remotes tells me all I want to know.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Something not to do then! I just want a simple remote start that'll give my 455T a (-) when I click to start - any brand in particular you would reccomend?

l Bearing in mind it needs to have a long range!

Cheers for your advice

All the above mentioned.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Many thanks! I shall have a look to see what's available. I take it any of them will have a negative "disarm" output to feed to my 455t? I've fitted plenty of alarms and one remote start before, but not via an interface!

ALL of them, known as Ground While Running(GWR) or status output.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Great, thanks!

I'm sorry to be an absolute pain of a newbie, but I have been looking at all the remote start modules on the net and my mind is frazzled.

Could someone reccomend me a remote start or three to take a closer look at, based on the following criteria, in order? The remote start I fitted before was to an old VW golf Mk2, and took about two hours to fit - some of these ones look like they could take me days!

1) Range - this is critical if I am to start the car without leaving the comfort of my office. I'm thinking over a thousand feet, are reputable manufacturers range quotes reasonably accurate for "open air" conditions, or should I take them with a hefty pinch of salt?

2) Price - I don't want to spend a fortune on a remote start, though I realise it can be transferred to another car in the future. I don't mind if it dies after two years, I doubt the Jeep will with the treatment it gets! Something available in the UK wou;d be a bonus, but not crucial by any means.

3) Simplicity - I'll be wiring this through a 455T as mentioned, and simply do not need all the fancy features that so many of these r/s kits have. All I need is a lock/unlock button, compatibility with the 455T, and a button to start/stop the engine. Anything else is pretty much superflous to me - I just want to get into a warm car in the winter, and a cold one in the summer!

Many thanks to all, particularly Howie - you're a star!

For technical reasons too involved to go into nothing on sale in the UK will give you the range. Come to think of it did you mention a steel framed office building with tinted glass, forget it, 50 feet if you're lucky.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

---

For technical reasons too involved to go into nothing on sale in the UK will give you the range. Come to think of it did you mention a steel framed office building with tinted glass, forget it, 50 feet if you're lucky.

---

Very good to know, Howie - I presume it's related to our allocated freqyuency band? I will ignore the range claims made by the manufacturers, then!

Hi Howie , I was thinking of getting an Avital 4103 - from what I have read it gets good reviews. I think it has all the outputs my 455T needs - as a reasonably cheap remote start, would you say yay or nay? And  is there a difference between the US version, and the UK version, in terms of range etc. ?

I know I can wire it in myself with no probems, just wondering if it is an OK R/S to use, and if the US version may have a longer range than the UK one?

Cheers,

Patrick.

Avital is the entry level, it lacks sufficient aux outputs for window closers etc. Not good range, the US version is the same as the UK, actually cheaper here. Not recommended for the above reasons, go for a Viper, 5904 if you're buying from the US but if you're buying from fleabay, remember no warranty or technical backups.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ah, I thought Avital was well reviewed - but I'll take your word over any Amazon buyer! I don't need window closure or anything else, are the Vipers that much better to pay the extra? I bought the whole Jeep for £500, it seems sensible to pay as little as possible for a r/s with good range etc, but you clearly really know your stuff - are Viper a lot better? 

Christ on a bike, that Viper is half the cost of my jeep!

Actually it's extremely complicated and too late at night to get into, basically Compustar, Autopage, Audivox are all highly rated by installers, unfortunately only DEI, Clifford and Viper are available in the UK.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You get what you pay for.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Very true, I'm a mechanical/electrical engineer for a job, but maybe the cheaper option would be better for me - I shouldn't have ant trouble installing a remote start, and can always call out an installer - but do you think the Avital 4103 is worth installing, or junk? 

Gawd, it's nearly 2.30am...

By the way, please get real, that £500 will buy you about 31/2 hours of dealer service on a BMW!!!

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Haha, tell me about it - I also have a 535i Sport to guzzle petrol like the Jeep does! It's never been near the dealer, I fix it myself - don't think free coffee and buns are worth paying £120/hr for!

Love those dealers, I got invited to a launch of the new Boxter in Hatfield recently, lots of booze and sushi but I've never seen so much botox in my life!
My mate had a small shunt in his 15 month old 335i recently, it went back to the dealer FOUR times to stop the left headlamp pointing at the ground (HIDs, motorised self levelling, the motor needed correct attachment).

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.