viper 5901. 2010 f150 xlt

Hi to all,

First of all these is my first post but believe me I have done lots of research now...thanks to these forum and I believe is the best place to get more info now to get hands to work after I verify the information I compiled.

Please could someone guide me to don't fried my car...If what I'm going to do is correct and clear out some question I still have during the process.

I need help in installing my Viper 5901 on my Ford F150 XLT 2010. I want to install first only the alarm and remote start bypass 556UW module, later on I have many more modules to keep adding as I purchase almost all. I have the Tilt sensor, audio sensor, backup siren, backup battery, dual zone motions sensor, Voice module 516L. Unfortunately I have visited lots of installation places and no one even wants to touch these alarm here at Ecuador on these car as they said it these car is too delicate on the electronics and I can feel they don't know mostly.

First I have found the corresponding wiring for these car at these link:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=991

Also I found these other link telling about someone that installed too these alarm on a F150 2010 but FX4 and I believe not installed completely.
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/viper-5901-install-75334/#post696493

Which referred me to these photos of points to wire to into the car:
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/2010-remote-starter-wiring-info-pics-match-71887/

Also here I found in thse forum a few more info from KREG356:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=120108&tpn=1&PN=1#reply

But even after all these I have a few wires that aren't too clear where or what to do.
So I have created a spreadsheet that compiles what I have learned and my questions and what I plan to do. Please could someone take a look at it and help me? I couldn't upload it here so post it as picture whit a code on the first column for responses and know what we are talking about.
Photo in Here!

I plan to do a complete guide after all is done for further reference in the future for other on How I made everything with photos and all details possible..So please help me complete it!!

Sorry for my English is not my native language ;)

after looking through the links you provided it should be a straightforward job.
the main point is to use a multimeter and test/verify that the colors and polarity of the wires in the guides do match what is in your truck.
your last post of the spreadsheet with additional wires you had questions on does not open so maybe list them in the post as just the harness numbers/wire colors and we can help by giving info on what ones are needed and which are not.

you will definately need some diodes if you dont already have them 1N4004 are the favourite choice and you may need some automotive relays,always handy to have some in the toolbox.

as for the later addition of sensors the phrase "less is more" comes in here.ive never had/used more than two in a vehicle and some peoples preference is just the 5o8d on its own with nothing other than the included shock sensor with the 5901.

as for your comment that the auto shops wont do it as they say the vehicle is too delicate to install that applies to just about all modern vehicles today that use more modules and onboard computers for engine management and system communication, or maybe they find this type of system to challenging but hey it will save you money as long as you be patient and test wires correctly and listen to the advice you will get from here during the install


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i have way too much time on my hands.....

Thanks a lot for your reply.

I have uploaded again the Spreadsheet in editable format. Please could you be kind enough to take a look at it as I can bet I'm wrong in something there hehehe...

HERE!

As for the modules yes I will take your advice and just install one or two at most will have to decide but these after I install the base alarm and test it. Also I will try to get those diodes you recommend thanks :)

Well looks like I joined at the right time, putting a 5701 on my 2010 Crew Cab F150 this Saturday, TONS of helpful info on here.

This will be my first alarm/RS install.

I have the alarm system, the DBALL bypass and plenty of diodes.

Can anyone tell me if there are any other items, such as relays, I will need for this specific vehicle? I have all the necessary tools/disposables.

THANKS!

I have been researching and plan on installing tomorrow.

I am using the 5701 with the DBALL, using D2D.

This seems a little too simple when using D2D, the instructions for the DBALL only ask for connecting 5 wires from the DBALL to the truck: HSCAN Hi and lo, TX, RX and ignition input.

It then says there are very few connections between the alarm and the truck due to using the D2D:

H3: Ignition 1 output
    Starter Output Car side
    Starter Input Key side
    12V constant

H1: 12V constant
    Chassis ground
    Parking light output
    

Other than that, just the D2D cable, NSS, siren output, hood pin and antenna.

That's 5 connections for the DBALL to truck and 7 from the alarm to the truck, 12 connections only to the truck.

So I won't even use H2 or Relay out harness.

This is my first go at this, is it really that simple when using the DBALL and D2D??

Please advise, wanna get started in the morning! Thanks!!

The ignition wires at the ignition switch are all small gauge ( 18 ga ).
You should find a better source for the Viper's power wires.  You could go
to the battery, the SJB ( Red wire @ Black Plug G ) or the gray connector
in the DKP ( thick Red wire ).  Viper power wires are H1/2, H3/2 ( not
necessary as there is no IGN2 required for this truck ), H3/6 and H3/9.

Your Viper H3 should look like this :
      2010 F-150
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT     WHITE/ Orange        
H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT      +12V constant - N.U.
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT     PURPLE / Green
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)       Blue/White - cut
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)           Blue/White - cut
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)     +12V constant
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT             not used
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT               not used
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT      +12V constant
H3/10 NC No Connection

Please do yourself a big favor and be very careful with the (+) Parking
Light connection.  This is the only place where you can get in trouble
with this vehicle.  The easiest place to get the correct wire is at the
SJB.  It is a PURPLE / White wire at Pin 6 of the Gray 13 pin Plug E.  You
will have to lengthen the Vipers Parking Light wire but it is worth it.
Make sure the Viper Parking Light polarity Jumper/Fuse is set to (+).
The SJB is also a easy place to get the door locks wires.

The SJB is in the Passenger Kick Panel.

 

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Soldering is fun!

Additional thoughts...

Never used a DBALL ( or any D2D connection ) but make sure the DBALL
is flashed with the correct firmware, 401.FORD v1.01.  Think all the
2010 F-150's were standard 40 bit PATS.  The DBALL does not handle the
door locks and those connections are not shown in the diagram either. 
The Factory FOBs should still work while under remote start but the
Viper can do the locks too, if connected.  They are standard Type B (-),
requiring a straight connection to the correct wires in the truck.

Also start looking for your 5.5mm deep socket for a steering column
cover bolt....  Gotta love Ford   

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Soldering is fun!

A regular size craftsman 1/4" drive 5.5mm with a long extension will get the column apart as well. After you do a few of these trucks you get confident enough to find these wires right below the column cover (without removing it), but for a first timer, definitely remove the cover and visually trace the wiring to its source.

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

kreg357 wrote:

---

Additional thoughts...

Never used a DBALL ( or any D2D connection ) but make sure the DBALL
is flashed with the correct firmware, 401.FORD v1.01.  Think all the
2010 F-150's were standard 40 bit PATS.  The DBALL does not handle the
door locks and those connections are not shown in the diagram either. 
The Factory FOBs should still work while under remote start but the
Viper can do the locks too, if connected.  They are standard Type B (-),
requiring a straight connection to the correct wires in the truck.

Also start looking for your 5.5mm deep socket for a steering column
cover bolt....  Gotta love Ford    

---

God this is a great forum for info, thank you for your help!!

So you're saying that if I use the DBALL in D2D I would still have to connect the door lock wires off of the alarm to the truck in order for the Viper FOB's tofully function?

Yes, that is correct.  While I am not a DEI expert on the DBALL, going
by the install guide, it does not handle the locks or Factory alarm thru
its' data connection to the truck ( HSCAN ).  Those connections would
still have to be hard-wired between the Viper and the truck.  The DBALL
is slightly overkill ( for the price ) on this application and most
installers just go with a standard PATS bypass module and hard-wire the
rest.

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Soldering is fun!

Well, wired everything up and can't get the DBALL to program. It Flashes constant red when I put the first key in and turn it to "on".

The online pale I purchased from said they would load the latest firmware. Either they didn't or something is wired incorrectly. I verified my wiring coming off the DBALL (Can Hi and Lo, Ignition, RX and TX) and they are all good.

I'll run to Car Toys tomorrow and get them to flash, then try again as I didn't order the cable, lesson learned there.

DRIVING ME NUTS!!

Still won't work. Took DBALL to Car Toys and they verified appropriate programming and even flashed it again with newest Ford firmware.

When I follow the DBALL instructions for D2D and get to where I put the first key in the igtion and turn to "on" the DBALL LED flashes constant red, indication "CAN status not supported"

How can that be? Key is a 40 bit, has an 'S' on it. DBALL is supposed to support 2010 F150. Jumpers on Viper are Horizontal.

Also tried W2W by adding the connections for Brake Input, Tach Input, Door Status, GWR and power/ground on the DBAALL/Viper connection to what is listed below, same thing happened when trying to program DBALL module.

Here is what I have:

VIPER - Truck
H3/1 - WHITE/ Orange at ignition
H3/2 - NU
H3/3 - PURPLE / Green at ignition
H3/4 - Blue/White cut (connected to car side)
H3/5 - Blue/White cut (connected to plug/key side)
H3/6 - Battery
H3/7 - NU
H3/8 - NU
H3/9 - Battery

H1 Red - batterh
H1 Brown - siren
H1 Black - Chassis ground
H1 white - PURPLE / White @ SJB, Pin 13 on Plug E

Viper Door Unlock/Lock Harness
Blue - PURPLE / Gray @ SJB (Pin 4)
Green - Grey / YELLOW @ SJB (Pin 17)

Hood Pin switch wired, functions properly

NSS wired and in "on" position"

DBALL
HSCAN High - Pin# 6 on OBD port
HSCAN Low - Pin # 14 on OBD Port
TX - Pin #3 on PATS at ignition
RX - Pin # 4 on PATS at Ignition
Ignition - Pin #1 on PATS at ignition

Please help!

Just for grins, try reversing the HSCAN wires and then do the programming process.

To go completely W2W, add these connections and disconnect the D2D harness:
Viper H2/10 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT to DBALL 10 Pin plug Blue/White at Pin 10.
DBALL 14 Pin plug Red wire at pin 13 to +12V.
DBALL 14 Pin plug Black wire at pin 14 to ground.

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Soldering is fun!

Well, I did try switching both the HSCAN wires and the TX/RX wires, independent of each other in D2D, didn't work.

I also did have the three wires you mention above hooked up when trying W2W, still a no go.

I'll go outside real quick and try switching the HSCAN wires wile in W2W, I never tried that.

OK, just tried W2W with the connections mentioned above, same thing. Tried both combos of HSCAN wires also.

D2D harness was not plugged in.

Jumpers are horizontal on Viper.

Ive checked the PATS wires and connections from the DBALL to the PATS plug over and over, they're all good.

What else do you think it could be??

The DBALL isn't seeing the HSCAN signal.  Not sure why.  You could just use the DBALL for the transponder
bypass function only and hardwire the rest.

You can hard-wire the Tach, Brakes and Door Trigger(s) from the F-150 directly to the Viper.  Don't connect the HSCAN wires
and just use the DBALL for the transponder bypass.  The RED flashes at Step 4 are OK so just continue
programming with the second key observing the 5 second rule. Should work in either D2D or W2W.

RX = Pin 4 = Yellow/Orange
TX = Pin 3 = Violet/Gray

Verify the Pin 1 Ignition signal.

Everything should be soldered....

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Soldering is fun!

Well, before I go and do this, I did buy the DBALL for the simplicity of install.

Everything is soldered.

Is there a way to test the HSCAN hi/low w/a DMM?

Maybe the DBALL harness is mispinned and taking the two signals to the wrong spot at the DBALL?

Never tried testing the "CAN" signals with a DMM, but even looking
at them with an o'scope doesn't tell you too much. 

Agreed, not using the HSCAN defeats the purpose of the DBALL and
the ease it provides by supplying the Brake, Tach and Status signals.
Compare DBALL pin location and wire color to the install diagram.
Perhaps a call to DEI Tech Support is the best option.

As mentioned, I am not a user ( or fan ) of the DBALL.  No other
module manufacturer uses the Ford HSCAN with their products for
your truck.  Perhaps another forum member has used the DBALL on
the 2010 F-150 and can add some input.  For the ones that I did,
I used "the tried and true" Directed 1100F or iDatalink ADS TB
w/TB FM firmware and hard-wired everything else.

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Soldering is fun!

I did call DEI prior to this entire install for a few questions, they said they would not give tech support to a non-authorized dealer/installer (which I am clearly not :)

Was I mis-informed?

I'm going to do everything I can to utilize the simplicity of the device, maybe try a new one and see if this one is a dud, prior to hardwiring.

Is there any way that something wiht the actual Viper could be wired incorrectly and still elicit the error when trying to program the DBALL? I didn't think it could, but thought I'd ask.

kreg357 wrote:

---

Never tried testing the "CAN" signals with a DMM, but even looking
at them with an o'scope doesn't tell you too much. 

Agreed, not using the HSCAN defeats the purpose of the DBALL and
the ease it provides by supplying the Brake, Tach and Status signals.
Compare DBALL pin location and wire color to the install diagram.
Perhaps a call to DEI Tech Support is the best option.

As mentioned, I am not a user ( or fan ) of the DBALL.  No other
module manufacturer uses the Ford HSCAN with their products for
your truck.  Perhaps another forum member has used the DBALL on
the 2010 F-150 and can add some input.  For the ones that I did,
I used "the tried and true" Directed 1100F or iDatalink ADS TB
w/TB FM firmware and hard-wired everything else.

---

Yes, as you found out, DEI Tech Support is only for authorized dealers. 

From what I can tell from the DBALL install guide, the actual programming could be done
without any connections to the Viper.  As long as you were in W2W mode and had just
the Red and Black wires ( +12V & ground ) connected from the 14 Pin plug ( and the 5
wires, shown in solid black, connected to the truck ), it should program.

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Soldering is fun!

Just a thought. On the 3 Ford products I have installed on using a bypass module, I found there to be a second set of wires the same color as the TX and RX wires. Of course I was on the wrong set the first time around. Dug around and found a set of wires smaller gauge and used them.  

I have only tried to use a DBALL once and had no luck with it. Tossed it for a Fortin Key Override All. Love them. 

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kreg357 wrote:

---

Yes, as you found out, DEI Tech Support is only for authorized dealers. 

From what I can tell from the DBALL install guide, the actual programming could be done
without any connections to the Viper.  As long as you were in W2W mode and had just
the Red and Black wires ( +12V & ground ) connected from the 14 Pin plug ( and the 5
wires, shown in solid black, connected to the truck ), it should program.

---

Agreed, but the final step in programming the DBALL is to remote start the truck.

I also now think that the numerous red flashes I get after key 1 is done are OK, just means ALL status are not supported. I had stopped every time previously there. I have now moved forward, seems like it will work but the truck won't remote start in order to finish programming the module.

Oh, and when it does fail to remote start during programming, the viper brain clicks a few times and the parking lights flash 7 times, any significance to that?

PS, thank you SO MUCH for being as helpful as you have been thus far, i really appreciate it.

smokeman1 wrote:

---

Just a thought. On the 3 Ford products I have installed on using a bypass module, I found there to be a second set of wires the same color as the TX and RX wires. Of course I was on the wrong set the first time around. Dug around and found a set of wires smaller gauge and used them.  

I have only tried to use a DBALL once and had no luck with it. Tossed it for a Fortin Key Override All. Love them. 

---

I tapped the TX/RX and Ignition for PATS right at the PATS connector, so they've got to be the right wires.

Odd (and stupid) question: On the starter, the plug side is the key side and the other side is car side, correct?

Actually, you don't have to remote start the truck to finish the programming, just follow the manual transmission step 8 and jump +12V to the Ignition wire. 

Seven flashes means you are still in MTS mode.  Change the Vipers programming to Auto Trans, Menu 3, Item 1, Option 2.

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Soldering is fun!

OK, got into the menue ONCE and messed up.

Now it won't let me back in. Each time I have door open, ignition on then off and press the control button the thing goes into valet mode. Doesn't matter if I hold it down for 3, 5, 10 seconds or not, as soon as I let off it's in valet, solid blue LED on the control

Being as the DBALL isn't programmed yet and is not providing the Door Status signal, you might have to manually simulate the Door Trigger by touching the Vipers' H1/8 Green wire to chassis ground to get into programming.

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Soldering is fun!

Finally realized that myself last night and it worked, was able to trigger the door and get into programming mode. Successfully put it into AT mode. Now when trying to remote start the lights flash 8 times, "toggle switch off". I have the NSS plugged into viper and in the on position.

Also, I was able to get the DBALL to hold a 3 sec solid green LED by finishing the programming by doing the jumper method as you would for a MT, so supposedly it's programmed ( still shooting for D2D success). When doing the jumper though the truck did not actually start. However, the alarm STILL had to be physically grounded to think a door was open in order to enter programming mode, so the DBALL obviously isn't telling the viper the door status, even though it's supposedly programmed.

So I know my CANHi and CANLo are connected right. I know TX/RX and ignition at the PATS plug are right. Other than that the only connection off the DBALL is the D2D cable to the Viper. The viper only has the ignition/power/accessory/starter wires that it should on H3 (covered earlier on this thread) connected. Besides those the only connections bt the viper and truck are the parking light, seems to work, and the door lock and unlock, which also works.

The guys at car toys and best buy tell me they use this thing all the time in D2D with success. I don't wanna give up on that! Ill go W2W tonight if I still cnt get it to work, but I think there is something else to this.

Does the DBALL have to be flashed for either W2W or D2D specifically, or only to the proper vehicle?

Getting closer... 

While you might be connected to the HSCAN wires correctly, if the DBALL flashes
Red at Step 4 during programming, the DBALL isn't detecting the HSCAN and is
only programming the transponder bypass RX/TX side of the module.

For Neutral Safety, you need Viper H2/18 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT
connected to a solid chassis ground, the Neutral Safety Switch harness plugged
in to the Viper and the switch set to ON.

As far as I know, there is no specific D2D or W2W firmware.  Just the correct
flavor for the vehicle type.  Think it decides which communication method via the D2D harness power
input.

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Soldering is fun!

Ahh, so the wire has to be grounded IN ADDITION to the NSS. I assume of the DBALL would comm. it would sub for that wire.

So the DBALL has always flashed red at step 4. My truck's help center says "2 admin keys programmed, 0 mykeys". Is there anything on the truck side that may be preventing the DBALL from getting good CANS between itself and the truck? Or is the DBALL simply failing to comm. on its side?

I have got to think by now either the DBALL is a dud or it's still not flashed correctly (really should have gotten the cable already).

Gonna pick another DBALL up tonight, flash at best buy and test. If that one doesn't work either something's up. In W2W the DBALL must still communicate via the CAN wires, correct?

If I do go the hardwire route eventually what bypass do you recommend most on this truck for ease of install and programming?

Have you tried a remote start in the truck after the semi-successfull ( red blink ) programming?  While
the DBALL is not supplying any of those dashed blue line signals shown on the left side of the DBALL
install diagram, it might be handling the bypass function OK.

Hate to even suggest it, but triple check the HSCAN connections.  It's that or the DBALL is bad or flashed
with the wrong firmware.

I might be mistaken but I believe the HSCAN connection supplies the Tach, Brake, Door & Trunk Status
signals, only.  The DBALL should run without them as a simple bypass module, just connected to the PATS
system and bypassing that when GWR ( - Status Output ) is true.

The hardest part of going hardwire on that truck is the (-) N.C. door triggers.  Might need a DTIMazda module. 
That is the only place the DBALL earns it keep.

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Soldering is fun!

Success! Connected the BLACK/ wht wire to ground and the truck starts. Still can't get the DBALL to fully program, so it's not doing door triggers, foot brake, etc.

Really want the door triggers instead of going to the dome light and don't want to wore any diodes. Going to mess with programming more, making progress!!

Going to the ford dealership to see of one of these keys is a clone or if they are both master keys, truck was used when I purchased.

If I can't program the door pins, what is necessary besides diodes since they are (-) NC ?

Also, if I have working what is described above an the truck starts but has no door pin or foot brake sensing through the DBALL, do I need to hook up the GWR wire at all?

OK!      

The fact that the truck will remote start without a key near the ignition switch means that the
DBALL did program the bypass function and you do have two unique transponder keys.  The GWR
signal is coming thru the D2D harness ( no need for a separate wire connection ).   With no Tach
signal / connection, the Viper is in Virtual Tach Mode. 

All that is left is getting the HSCAN portion to work.

For safeties sake, temporarily hook up the Viper to the Brake signal ( PURPLE / White ) @ pedal switch. 
This will allow a proper key-take-over and emergency engine shutdown.

Just for fun, you can connect the Viper directly to one of the Door Triggers to test the Vipers
alarm functions.  Program the Viper to N.C., Menu 1. Item 13, Option 2, and connect the H1/8
Green wire to the GREEN/ Purple Drivers Door Trigger in the Drivers Kick Panel.  You can also try
using the Dome Light but if there is an exit delay / fade that could cause problems with the Viper.

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Soldering is fun!

DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

After the success above, switched the HSCAN wires again (now they are in the opposite positions as they are supposed to be according to the instructions) and door pins, foot brake work!!

Pretty much there! Thanks you SOOO much for all you help man, truly appreciate it! Saved about $450 and learned quite a bit here. Alarm/RS systems in these new cars are no joke if you don't have experience on them, thanks to all for you support. I'll be hanging around here and maybe even offer up my limited knowledge from this experience to others with equivalent installs.

Greg

Oh, and after all this the DBALL STILL flashes constant red at programming step #4, indicating "CANS not supported".

Maybe some additional things are not supported, but the door pins and foot brake inputs are!

Please HELP :(

Today I wired the alarm and put the H1/11: Park Light Output to driver kick, sbj gray 13 pin plug e, pin 6 purple white.
Set the alarm module fuse to + too

However, when I arm the alarm everything acts normal, parking ligth flashes, doors lock etc.., but on disarm the Headlights turn on and off after a few secs like 10. Is these normal??? or something is wrong on the wiring as I was careful to don't touch the headlight wiring to dont burn them.

The only thing I think might be is that I followed the Technical document 1098 for disarming the factory alarm on Ford 2010 with the relays etc...but as I have 556UW interface module I have no TX or RX cables from that wiring diagram and it is not showed there as compatible module...Do I need another module? Is these causing the headlight turns on.

PS. If I put the headlight contactor to OFF they don't turn on, only if they are on AUTO mode these happens. However, as I have HID I could hear they still try to get turn on when disarming the alarm.


Thanks for the help in advance ;)

Your Parking Light connection is correct and not causing the problem.   Neither is the 556UW bypass.

Does your F150 actually have the Factory Alarm?  Most of them don't.  As a test, roll down the drivers
door window, turn off and exit the truck.   Press the lock button with the door open, then close the door. 
Wait two minutes and then open the drivers door with the inside handle.  If the horn starts beeping, you
have the Factory Alarm.   No Factory Alarm = No need for DEI 1098.

The reason your headlights come on is DEI Tip 1098 actually pulses the trucks ignition ( & bypass )
momentarily to turn off the alarm.   That's almost the same as inserting a key and quickly turning to
RUN and back to OFF.

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Soldering is fun!