Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2007 dodge ram 1500 compustar

HI ALL, I AM NEW TO THIS BUT HAVE BEEN READING OTHER THREADS FOR OTHER PROBLEMS IVE HAD WITH OTHER CARS, ANYWAYS I HAVE A 2007 DODGE RAM 1500 WITH COMPUSTAR REMOTE START/ALARM WITH THE CM3000 BRAIN AND IDATALINK BYPASS. THIS WAS MY VERY FIRST INSTALL WITH A REMOTE START/ALARM AND I INSTALLED IT THE OTHER DAY AND I HAVE THE ALARM PART WORKING PERFECTLY FINE BUT NO REMOTE START. YOU HOLD THE BUTTON AND IT COMES ON LIKE IT WANTS TO START BUT IT JUST ISN'T CRANKING OVER. SO I CHECKED TO SEE IF THERE IS POWER FROM THE START WIRE COMING FROM THE BRAIN AND THERE IS. I DO REALIZE THAT THE DODGE CHRYSLER VEHICLES ARE MORE COMPLEX THAN A HONDA OR TOYOTA BUT I AM AN AUTO TECHNICIAN AND KNOW MY WAY AROUND CARS FOR SURE. SO IF ANYONE KNOWS WHAT I COULD HAVE POSSIBLY DONE WRONG OR NOT A WIRE HOOKED UP? AND HELP WOULD BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED

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Need more info to assist.

Which iDatalink module did you use? What firmware and version is flashed on to module?
Did you use the ADS HRN CH5 harness? I think, with the CM3000, you had to go W2W. Did you
set the modules install mode and lock it in? Did the module program to the vehicle as per
the install guide?

The iDatalink bypass modules makes this install fairly easy. While there are some differences
( in vehicle wire locations and the lack of a Starter wire on the 2007 ), this pictorial might
help : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130085~PN~1

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Soldering is fun!

THE BYPASS IS THE ADS AL-CA. I DIDN'T FLASH ANYTHING ON IT CAUSE IT DIDN'T SAY TO. I DID NOT USE THAT HARNESS BECAUSE THE CM3000 BRAIN DOES NOT HAVE A PLUG IN FOR ANY HARNESSES. IT IS AN OLDER MODEL SO THAT'S WHY I GOT IT FOR CHEAP BECAUSE THEY DON'T MAKE THIS ONE ANYMORE. I WOULD HAVE USED THAT METHOD FOR SURE THOUGH IF IT HAD A PLUG IN BECAUSE THAT'S JUST WAY EASIER. I PROGRAMMED THE BYPASS IN THE HARDWIRE MODE AND IT HAS LEARNED MY TRUCK. I FOLLOWED THE PROGRAMING PROCEDURE EXACTLY AND IT WORKED. LIKE I SAID BEFORE THE ALARM AND KEYLESS ENTRY WORK JUST NO START

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There should be a white sticker on the bottom of the inner white box the ADS AL-CA came in that
tells you which firmware / version was loaded at the factory and which install guide to use.
Hopefully it is ADS AL(DL) CH5. If it isn't CH5 then it won't work on your truck until it's
re-flashed with the correct firmware. There are different versions on CH5, so if yours is an
older unit, use the install guide listed, not the current one found on the WEB site.

As shown in the pictorial, I prefer to go W2W and make all the necessary connections listed in
the Type 3 install diagram. Also note this warning in the install guide :
          WARNING:
        DO NOT CONNECT
        ANY OTHER ACCESSORY,
        IGNITION OR START WIRE
        FROM THE REMOTE STARTER
        TO THE VEHICLE

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Soldering is fun!

OK THAT WHITE BOX IS AT HOME AND IM AT WORK RIGHT NOW SO ILL CHECK THAT LATER BUT THAT LAST COMMENT THERE:
DO NOT CONNECT
        ANY OTHER ACCESSORY,
        IGNITION OR START WIRE
        FROM THE REMOTE STARTER
        TO THE VEHICLE

WHAT I DONT GET IS THAT THE STARTER WIRE IS ALREADY PRE-WIRED TO A STARTER KILL-RELAY WITH TWO WIRES COMING OUT OF IT SO I DONT KNOW WHICH WIRE TO HOOK UP WITH THE BYPASS. I DID HOOK UP ALL THOSE WIRES TO THE TRUCK ANYWAYS AND WHEN I DISCONNECT THEM THE TRUCK GETS NO SIGNAL AT ALL FOR THE REMOTE START LIKE NOTHING HAPPENS AT ALL. SINCE THE BYPASS HAS NO ACCESSORY WIRE DO I JUST CUT THE WIRE OFF THE BRAIN? I AM FOLLOWING WHAT DO TO ON THE TYPE 3 INSTALL GUIDE AND THE TACH WIRE ISNT WORKING SO I JUST CONNECTED IT UNDER THE HOOD AND THAT WORKS. THE GUIDE SAYS I NEED A DIODE IN THE CONNECTION WITH IGNITION WIRES FROM THE BYPASS TO THE BRAIN WHICH IVE DONE. IS THERE ANY SPECIFIC AMPERAGE RATING I SHOULD BE USING? RIGHT NOW ITS A 6 AMP RECTIFIER DIODE

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Remember that the Compustar CM3000 is a generic aftermarket component that is designed to be
flexible enough to work with a wide variety of vehicles. The included, pre-wired, Starter Kill
relay is a nice feature but might not be applicable to all vehicles. ( As an example, newer GM
vehicles don't even have a Starter wire at the ignition switch. To crank the starter, they
monitor the ignition and accessory wires and send a start signal when they see the Accessory wire
drop while the the ignition wire stays at +12V.) With your truck, you won't be able to use that
Starter Kill feature without some serious engine compartment wiring. Following the iDatalink CH5
install guide, you will connect the CM3000 Starter wire ( without relay, just cut it off ) directly
to the bypass module. The iDatalink will initiate the vehicles start sequence when it sees GWR and
the CM3000's Starter output via its MUX and CAN Bus connections to the truck.

Yes, there is no need for the CM3000 Accessory wire. The ignition wire diode ( if you blow up the
diagram ) is shown as a 1N4001, but any 1N400x diode will work. ( Think I've even used a 3 Amp diode
at times ).

It's possible that the iDatalinks' Tach output isn't working because it has the wrong firmware loaded
on it, but going directly to the engine is fine.

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Soldering is fun!

Did you set the brain for automatic transmission instead of manual trans?

Yes I did set it for auto trans but cutting the green loop
And kreg I did exactly what you said with all the connections and it worked!!.....only for like 3 seconds though. As soon as the trucks starts up, it shuts down. And now my keyless entry isn't working. The truck will arm and disarm but the doors will not lock or unlock and I didn't even touch those wires. So I don't know what happened

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If the red LED is flashing when you remote start the truck, then the sentry immobilizer is not being bypassed properly. As well, did you program the tach wire to the remote starter ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I will check to see if the red light is on then and yes I did program the tach wire to the engine because the bypass tach wire isn't workinh

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What was the firmware indicated on the white sticker? If it is indeed ADS AL(DL)-CH5, then I would try a Factory Reset on the iDatalink bypass module and then set the Install Mode to Standard ( two blinks ), lock it in and then re-program to the truck. As Jeff pointed out, the iDatalink module does give some indications via the LED during remote start that could assist in troubleshooting a problem. They are listed at the end of the Install Guide ( along with the Factory Reset procedure ).

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Soldering is fun!

So I read the sticker on the box and it says:
SW- ADS AL(DL)-CH4 2.04 so that means it had the wr

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Wrong software. How would I flash it?

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Therein lies the problem. You need a special USB computer cable ( ADS USB ) and registered dealer access to their WEB site to flash the module. If you purchased it locally, see if the seller will flash it for you. Otherwise , if you don't want to spend $60 for the cable and can't meet the "dealer" qualifications, you might try a local BestBuy ( in the States, not sure if they are in Canada, too ) or friendly car alarm shop.

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah we have a best buy and future shop here. They don't need any wire harness to flash it do they? I can just take it in and ask them to flash it and tell them it's a 2007 dodge ram?

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No harnesses, just the module. They should know exactly which firmware is needed but can select it thru pull down menus knowing the year, make and model. Bring a box of doughnuts, they are doing you a huge favor. posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

Haha ok I'll make sure to do that today then. Another question here, the siren is really loud! Like ear piercing loud. I've read in the manuel that came with it and it said if I wanted to make it louder all I do is cut the black loop. So I thought maybe the black loop got cut but I took my siren out and can not find a black loop anywhere. So is it inside the siren? I didn't want to take it apart and find out its not there

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Ok so....
I finally got it to work!!! All is good. It remote starts and locks and unlocks and all thy good stuff lol. I just went to do a factory reset on the bypass only to find that the lock, unlock and ignition harness WAS UNPLUGGED!! Kind of stupid of me that I didn't see it earlier 😝. Anyways it's all good now and thank you everyone for your help. It was all very appreciated.
I still need help with the siren though. No big deal if it won't be quieter but it would be nice to know if it can be. Also I don't know if it's only on the chrylsers or not but when I press the unlock it only opens the drivers door so I have to press it a second time then all the doors unlock. Wondering if there was a way around that?

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Change unlock to double pulse unlock.

How do I change it to double pulse unlock?

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Here is a link to a CM3000 install guide. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=355

See Page 4 for programming Menu 1 Option 5 to ON ( Menu 1 on Page 5 ).

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Soldering is fun!

So I tried that programming and it didn't work. I have a 4 button one way remote (1WAMR-1600). The guide isn't making much sense because its says 4 button remotes have I+II buttons and my remote does not have those and I know those buttons are on the 2 way remotes. Mine shows pictures of lock/panic, unlock, trunk, and auto start but it says those are on 6 button remotes. So Im lost again lol

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On four button remotes, I think Button I is top left. Button II is top right. Button III is bottom left. Button IV is bottom right. . ( I use the OP-500 programmer and the CM5x00 and CM6x00 series ). Using the remotes takes some getting used to and timing is everything.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok I got it programmed and it works. Does anyone know how to make the siren quieter though? Still too loud and I think the neighbours are getting annoyed lol

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Duct tape over the siren.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote:

Duct tape over the siren.

Some units offer Silent Arm/Disarm... Not sure if this unit does... or...............^

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Or... Adjusting the Car Siren Volume: In order to decrease the chirping volume of the siren, cut the loop located on the siren.

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

I read the Manuel and it says to increase the siren volume, cut the black loop. So I tried to look for a black loop Cause I thought maybe it was cut and can not find it! I took it out of the truck and still couldn't see it. My question is is the wire on the inside of the siren?

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It says DECREASE in what i read...

Adjusting the Car Siren Volume: In order to decrease the chirping volume of the siren, cut the loop located on the siren.

This was copied and pasted from the manual... Assuming the Link above is your Unit...

Maybe the Siren is from a different unit or the manual is Old... Or...

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Ok that's weird because my manuel says:
Siren- six tone siren usually mounted in the engine bay. You can INCREASE the volume of the siren by clipping the black loop

That was copied and pasted from my manuel

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Well, the loop is usually visible and if you are not seeing this loop, im guesing either the Manual is Incorrect/Been Updated or the Siren has been switched... Sounds like some Black Duct Tape... Or just give it a Poor Ground_**Just Kidding on the Poor Ground**_... Maybe just buy an extra/replacement Siren that is at The DB level your comfortable with.

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!