2010 tundra viper 5701 lock

I installed a viper 5701 and an idatalink ads al ca bypass, w2w on a 2010 Toyota tundra. Everything works as it should. But when I remote start the truck, the drivers door unlocks, then starts and then re locks.

I have the bypass wired as such:
Bypass unlock/disarm to viper unlock AND viper factory oem alarm disarm.
Bypass lock/arm to viper lock AND viper factory oem alarm arm.

I was trying to incorporate both alarms together. Do I need to diode isolate the factory oem alarm wires to the viper? Or just disconnect them and the lock problem will be gone? It seems the factory alarm is triggering the drivers door to unlock prior to remote start.

And without going to the dealer, anyway to eliminate the factory keyless chirp when locking and unlocking, just using the viper alarm?

Thanks
Thanks

Diode isolate the GWR wire to both the bypass and to the factory keysense ( lt. green      -      Body ECU, white 10 pin plug, pin 5). That will disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the doors. Then connect only the lock / unlock wires from the viper to the bypass (not the factory arm / disarm).

Not sure on the factory keyless chirp.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Ok. I have the GWR from the bypass going to the viper at H2/10, dark blue, status output. So it's just from the bypass to the keysense then, or keep it with H2/10 also, cause I have nothing at the keysense now.

And does this disable the factory alarm for good?

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated!!

You need to pick up a couple 1n4001 diodes and isolate the single GWR output from the viper to both the input on the bypass and the keysense. I always seem to get diodes backwards (and someone can correct me if I'm wrong) but I believe the bands on the diodes should go towards the Viper..

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I'll grab a couple of those. Just to be sure, the GWR from the viper, that is H2/10, dark blue, status output?

Yes to Kenny on the diode band position.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for clarifying that howie ll!

If you are not using the Viper's H2/16 Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd Status / Rear Defog wire for anything ( like the rear defroster ), you could use this wire for the Keysense
and H2/10 for the bypass module.  Two separate circuits and no need for diodes.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

So I connected that and now I can't lock or unlock while the truck is remote started....

Got it all figured out.

First, offroadzj, howie ll and kreg357 thank you for all your help!!!!!

Long story short, I did diode isolate, no help, made things worse, then the doors would not lock or unlock after remote started. So I removed the diodes, AND removed the factory oem alarm arm and disarm wires from the bypass and viper unit, leaving the bypass lock/arm connected to the viper lock wires. And the bypass unlock/disarm wires connected to the viper unlock wires. Now everyhting operates as should, lock and unlock before and after remote start.

Using the Idatalink bypass I did not need the factory oem alarm wires, keysense wire nor the tundra's lock wires. The bypass takes care of incorporating those all together through the canh and canl connections, and the factory alarm and viper both work together. I made it more difficult myself, more than it should have been. it actually was a very straight forward install.

Again, thanks for the help. If I can help anyone with an install on a tundra. I'll try. lol

Good thinking.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.