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Viper 4204 with Dball, 2009 Nissan AltimaPrinted From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc. URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=132587 Printed Date: April 18, 2024 at 6:49 AM Topic: Viper 4204 with Dball, 2009 Nissan Altima Posted By: ssg of america Subject: Viper 4204 with Dball, 2009 Nissan Altima Date Posted: November 05, 2012 at 2:20 PM Car: 2009 Nissan Altima 2.5SL Automatic with PTS
Hardware: Viper 4204 Remote Start / Xpresskit DBALL with firmware 401.NISS3HT v1.05 I have the installation guide for both kits as well as a DirectWire print out for a 2008 altima. My confusion is coming from which wires to use from the remote start. The DBALL instructions are very straight forward since I'm using D2D, except for the one wire that connects to the (+) ignition on the Remote start (2 ignitions). Here is the Remote start wiring guide (i put at the end of each what I believe is correct). 4204V H1/1 (red) (+) 12vdc constant input > 40a constant on bcm H1/2 (black) (-) chassis ground > ground by kick panel H1/3 (brown) (-) 200mA horn honk output > pin 8 on horn plug H1/4 (WHITE/ brown) light flash isolation wire-87a light flash relay > do I use this? H1/5 (white) pin 30 of light flash relay > do I use this? H1/6 (orange) 500mA ground when armed output > do I use this? H2/1 (pink/white) (-)200mA flex relay control output > do I use this? H2/2 (BLACK/ white) (-) neutral safety input > Do I use this with an automatic? H2/3 (blue/white) (-) 200mA 2nd status / rear defogger output > pin 40 on green bcm connector H2/4 (GREEN/ black) (-) 200mA factory alarm disarm output > pin 6 or 7 on power window main switch H2/5 (RED / white) (-) 200mA trunk release output > D2D does this? H2/6 (green) (-) door input > D2D does this? H2/7 (BLACK / YELLOW) (-) 200mA dome light output > bcm wht plug pin 16 H2/8 (empty) H2/9 (dark blue) (-) 200mA status output > I have no clue??? H2/10 (pink) (-) 200mA ignition 1 output > second ign bcm gray plug pin 16 H2/11 (WHITE/ black) (-) 200mA aux 3 output > dont need? H2/12 (violet) (+) door input > does D2D do this? H2/13 (WHITE/ violet) (-) 200mA aux 1 output > do I need this? H2/14 (violet/black) (-) 200mA aux 2 output > do I need this? H2/15 (ORANGE / black) (-) 200mA aux 4 output > do I need this? H2/16 (brown) (+) brake shutdown input > does the D2D do this? H2/17 (gray) (-) hood pin input (nc or no) > hood switch H2/18 (violet / YELLOW) (-) 200mA starter output > does D2D do this? H2/19 (blue) factory horn input (use jumper to set ploarity) > do I hook this up with the other horn? H2/20 (gray/black) (-) diesel wait to start input > N/A H2/21 (WHITE/ blue) activation input > what is this? H2/22 (orange) (-) 200mA accessory output > do I use this? both accessories are + H2/23 (violet/white) tachometer input > fuel injector or coil pack wire. H2/24 (GREEN / WHITE) (-) 200mA factory alarm arm output > pin 4 or 6 on power window main switch H3/1 (pink) (+) ignition 1 input/output > Pin 11 on bcm blk plug H3/2 (RED / white) +12v fused (30A) ignition 2/flex relay input > do I use this? H3/3 (orange) (+) accessory output > pin 31 on bcm blk plug H3/4 (violet) (+) starter output > Pin 4 on PTS H3/5 (red) +12v fused (30A) ignition 1 input > rear of dash fuse box white 1 pin plug H3/6 (pink/white) ignition 2/flex relay output > do I use this? H3/7 (pink/black) flex relay input 87a (if required) of flex relay > do I use this? H3/8 (RED / black) +12v fused (30A) accessory/stater input > do I use this? if so does it go to the starter or accessory...or both? 1 (blue) (-) 500mA unlock output > does D2D do this? 2 (empty) 3 (green) (-) 500mA lock output > does D2D do this? DBALL BLUE 14/3 (tan/black) HSCAN high > pin 6 on obdII BLUE 14/4 (tan) HSCAN low > pin 14 on obdII BLUE 14/8 (yellow) data (vehicle side) > Pin 14/11 and vehicle side of key port BLUE 14/9 (orange / YELLOW) data (keyport side) > key side of keyport RED 12/2 (GREEN/ black) (-) push to start > pin 4 PTS RED 12/4 (RED / black) (-) door pin output > pin 39 green bcm connector RED 12/7 (gray/black) (+) keysense output > pin 11 on keyport RED 12/8 (PURPLE / green) (+) ignition status output > H3/1 on remote start? RED 12/9 (PURPLE / brown) (+) ignition status output > H3/1 on remote start? RED 12/10 (yellow/black) clock > pin 2 on keyport RED 12/11 (ORANGE / black) data > 14/9 or vehicle side keyport Hopefully this can help others in the future as well. thank you in advance. Replies: Posted By: offroadzj Date Posted: November 05, 2012 at 3:50 PM A couple quick points before I go through your posted list..
1. Save yourself a ton of future headache and don't use D2D. Use W2W... it is a lot more reliable and gives you the ability to test things down the road. 2. Ditch the DB-ALL and pick up an idatalink bypass. I used to use the DEI bypasses and they were very unreliable. Since switching to idatalink, I don't think I'll ever go back. ------------- Kenny Owner / Technician KKD Garage LLC Albany, NY 12205 Posted By: shortcircuit161 Date Posted: November 05, 2012 at 4:00 PM x2 with Kenny on ditching the DB-ALL. I used to install them all the time until they started failing to program or losing their programming after it was working for days or weeks. iDatalink all the way and on rare ocassions a Fortin. Both rock solid modules. Never looked back.
------------- Posted By: ssg of america Date Posted: November 05, 2012 at 4:18 PM thank you, points noted. I bought DEI products assuming they would make it easier since they come from the same manufacturer...I was clearly wrong. If I could return this one I would.
Posted By: offroadzj Date Posted: November 05, 2012 at 5:22 PM ssg of america wrote: Please see all comments next to each question. You are incorrect on quite a few of the connections and judging by your comments, I would HIGHLY suggest passing this to a pro. I have been doing remote starters for about 10 years now and have done thousands... I just started doing the PTS vehicles within the past couple years because they can be quite a bit more difficult. In addition, the BCM is VERY hard to get to on this car. The plugs can be very tight to get access to the wiring, and the screws are tamper-proof screws so they don't come out without a major fight. In addition, a small error when testing or connecting a wire can cause a lot of damage... so if you are not experienced, I would pick a different (easier) vehicle to start on. If you do decide to not heed my warning / suggestion, make sure to test EVERYTHING before making ANY connections. If you don't have a good quality DMM, get one before you even think about starting. ------------- Kenny Owner / Technician KKD Garage LLC Albany, NY 12205 Posted By: ssg of america Date Posted: November 06, 2012 at 11:29 AM thanks Kenny, your suggestions are noted as well.
I've been in the electrical / electronics trade my whole life...professionally since '95. I've worked on everything from VCR's to Nuclear A/C carriers and subs, I currently work on Helicopters for the Army. I'm more than capable of doing the work just not familiar with remote starters. I would be capable of figuring it out myself if Directed supplied something useful like an elec schematic or logic diagram...the wire descriptions were vague in its purpose and I'm not really sure why they need to supply a diagram for where the harnesses plug into the brain (unless you never mastered shapes as a kid). I figured I would try and save myself some time crawling around with my multimeter in the car and see if anyone would help me out...as you did kindly. thank you. ------------- Owner/Builder/Fabricator Syner G Racing LLC EST. 2003 V-FAB LLC EST. 2006 Posted By: offroadzj Date Posted: November 06, 2012 at 1:18 PM If you are confident in your abilities then have at it... and we'll help where we can. We just see a lot of backyard hack mechanics that think they can install a remote starting in a 2013 Mercedes because they know how to change a battery. Sadly it doesn't work that way. Making the connections is the easy part. Knowing how to use the sometimes correct information that you can find and turning that into something that actually works correctly is where it gets hard. But make sure to test everything you possibly can. Some wires are very difficult and sometimes not possible to test (ie some CAN wires, data wires, etc) and you have to hope that the diagrams are correct.
So as pointed out earlier, take your time with the install, test and re-test EVERYTHING you can, W2W the bypass to the module, and make proper connections. ------------- Kenny Owner / Technician KKD Garage LLC Albany, NY 12205 Posted By: ssg of america Date Posted: November 06, 2012 at 11:43 PM I'm taking the advice from you both and requesting a RMA to return all the Xpresskit crap. After looking at the installation guide with the Fortin EVO ALL I realized I purchased the wrong bypass. I did a bit or research and saw complaint after complaint about the inconsistancy of the DB ALL and I checked out idatalink and fortin and was sold....hopefully they will let me return them. I will post up my results once I get into this install. ------------- Owner/Builder/Fabricator Syner G Racing LLC EST. 2003 V-FAB LLC EST. 2006 Posted By: offroadzj Date Posted: November 07, 2012 at 5:52 AM To be 100% honest, even if they don't return it, it is probably still worth it to sell it for what you can and still buy either an idatalink or fortin. Just make sure that you buy the idatalink / fortin from somewhere that will program it for you. If you get the idatalink DLSL CA2, it should come pre-loaded with the required firmware.
------------- Kenny Owner / Technician KKD Garage LLC Albany, NY 12205 Posted By: ssg of america Date Posted: November 12, 2012 at 11:37 AM Purchased the EVO-ALL and the Flash link updater for both the nissan and toyota. I will start a new post for those that may be interested. ------------- Owner/Builder/Fabricator Syner G Racing LLC EST. 2003 V-FAB LLC EST. 2006 Posted By: magnamagus Date Posted: February 05, 2014 at 1:44 PM Hello,
SO what are the results of your install of the DBALL and Viper? Were you able to find out what the problem was? Were you able to fix it and get the install working on your Altima? ------------- Erick Posted By: kevmartin64 Date Posted: January 29, 2015 at 3:44 PM Can the same Viper 4204 wiring connections be used for a 2006 Chrysler Town & Country? I connected the Idatalink ADS AL CA with D2D and I can not get the starter to crank. I hear the relays clicking in the viper module but thats it.
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