Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2011 mazda 3 dball problems

2011 Mazda 3 Installing a viper responder one and DBALL. When programming and you go to do the last step. hold the program button and remote start the DBALL actually clicks and doesnt start the car. The car will not start without the key in the ignition. I have double checked all of the connections and they are all right on. I just noticed in the manual for the DBALL that I need to turn on RFTD output on, but how because I have a single button remote. Any help on where to start to fix this issue.. Thanks..

Follow the Dball feature programming instructions and the one button remote will change (toggle between) the options each time its pressed. IE feature 1 is No RF Output(Default option) which is option 1 and the leds on the DBALL will flash Green x1(Feature) and Red x1(Option). So Changing Feature 1 to option 2 will Flash Green Led x1(Feature) and Red Led x2(Option).

Any idea why it clicks when trying to start?

Relays click when energized even the viper internal ones.

well i understand that. It will click once when the key is in the ignition. but when i try to remote start it clicks 8-10 times and the security light flashes. I am gonna re flash it tomorrow i think and see what happens.

It said it needs RFTD on so im gonna flash it like that. I have no way to change it with the one button remote.

lucasoil4u wrote:

It said it needs RFTD on so im gonna flash it like that. I have no way to change it with the one button remote.

It can be programmed with the One button remote as you only need to enter the features programming mode and then press the button on the remote one time and then exit..Each time you press the button it will change the setting, if it is off and you press the button it will change to on, if you hit it again it will go back to off.

Feature Programming Programming

To enter feature programming routine
Turn the ignition ON, then OFF.
Within 5 seconds, press and HOLD the programming button until the LED turns ON orange (after 3 seconds). Release the
Programming button.
The LED will flash green once slowly to indicate the feature number is 1. After a short delay, the LED flashes red rapidly to indicate
the current option of feature 1 (i.e. 1x green followed by 1x red indicates feature 1 is set to option 1). The flashing sequence will
repeat until a new command is entered.

Changing feature options
Press the lock/arm or unlock/disarm (or in you case the only button you have) button on aftermarket transmitter to change the option of the selected feature.
The LED flashes red rapidly the number of times equal to the current option number. After a short delay, the LED flashes green
slowly the number of times to indicate the current feature.
--
The flashing sequence will repeat until a new command is entered

When you enter programming mode it trys to remote start the car when you press the one button on the remote, it doesnt change anything.

Then disconnect the remote start GWR Blue/White (-) Status.

When you try to programm the dball and it remote starts does it exit the programming mode?

When remote starter is on a second push of the button should unlock.

So to reccap if pressing the button one time starts and dosen't cause the dball to exit programming the a second press while running will unlock which will change the setting, if not then disconnect the GWR so the starter dosen't cause the dball to exit programming mode and see if the settings for the dball change. You may need to still press the button twice while the remote start is trying to start the vehicle to get the unlock, with the GWR unhooked. As the GWR enables the dball to bypass the security.

I'm running d2d so I'm not using the gwr per the xpresskit diagram . Check it out 2011 Mazda 3 non smart key . Installation 5 d2d. It does cause the Dball to exit programming mode .

Most would reccomend against doing D2D with the DBALL, because there are top many problems. W2W is the perferred way.

The only other way that I can think of is to put both the the Viper and the DBALL into programming mode at the same time, when using D2D .Then when your done with the DBALL, go back into the viper and change the setting that may have changed to what it was as default(Menu 1 Feature 1-Horn honk pulses=off). Otherwise a Bitwriter is the next step.

Ordered a PKall old school doodie seems to work alot better. Did take long and wired it in and it all works. DBALL is junk.

The dball is a new platform that still has issues and bugs that need to be worked out. As for the old school stuff I use them too and have zero problems with them and they also has more functions per vehicle application then the dball most of the time.

Works great going old school thats for sure. Much more reliable.

Now I am getting 5 parking light flashes when trying to remote start. Dont understand cause no one is hitting the brake. ANY help??

Is the brake connection data or hardwired to the vehicle? It sounds like there is an incorrect signal on the brake wire.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

DMM Check the H2/3 Brown brake wire input as it should only have +12v on it when the foot brake is pressed.

H2/1 BLACK/ White should be grounded for a Automatic Trans.

Both of those are true. Sometimes it works most of the time 5 flashes. Bad Brain?

Hardwired Green in DKP. shows 12 volts when brake is pressed.

I would just test and make sure that the wire doesn't somehow show voltage with the ignition on to make sure, but it sounds like possibly a bad brain. Is the DBALL W2W or D2D? If D2D, try changing it to W2W in case there is a miscommunication from the DBALL to the Viper Brake shutdown.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

The DBALL was removed and a PKALL was installed. So the Viper brain is used for the brake shutdown. Brown wire to green in DKP. only shows 12 volts when brake is applied. Im getting 5 flashes when trying to start or go into Pit Stop mode.

I just brought up the install guide and it shows that 5 flashes is the hood, not the brake. How do you have the gray hood pin wire connected? Test to see if that is showing ground.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

gray is the small gray wire on the 5 pin harness. Connected to nothing. I havent ran that yet. I was gonna get a mercury switch cause this is the wifes car. The neutral Safety switch is hooked threw a switch to ground. Wire isnt hooked to anything yet. Is the Brain Bad?

Put your meter on the gray hood pin wire and see if it shows ground. If so and it isn't connected then the brain is bad. Also make sure you have a ground signal on the NSS. Check both directly at the connector to the brain.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

I will do this after work. Thanks man

If the hood pin is not connected then you should get no reading from it as "offroadjz" said. It's a NO connection and a ground to it will trigger shutdown 5 Flashes. Which means bad brain.

What resistance value to make the unlock work on the wire at the bcm?

Direct ground for unlock as below:

Power Lock lt. green -1000 ohms BCM above driver kick, white 24 pin plug (6), pin D
Power Unlock same as power lock -

Don't for get the diodes for each wire lock and unlock.

Only have to do unlock so no diodes needed

When the car gets put it put stop mode and you turn off the key after about 45 seconds the car shuts off and restarts. Then it Runs fine . Any idea of what this could be . Also remote start won't let me get into programming mode ... Any ideas ??

Not sure on the restart, but the programming mode needs to see key on, key off, press programming button and hold with in a few seconds, programming button needs to held until the led flashes the number of times for the menu you want. Then tap the button and release the number of times for the option and then hold it. IE tap 3 times and then hold the fourth time to change option 3.

I do that for programming and the LED never flashes. I have a new brain coming to try to fix these issues. Im running the PKALL d2d for power, if i unplug that to change the brain will it loose its program? Thanks

I talked with a friend of mine and he thinks the brain is bad and that is why it wont go into programming mode. So i will replace the brain. DO I have to reprogram the PKALL if i take it away from power?

No it should hold the settings, as this type of bypass can only be programmed twice and has to be sent to the factory to be reset.

Sweet Thanks a bunch!! What state you in Lurch228

I'll bet the brain insn't bad. I can't remember is this model of remote start manual transmission capable? If so all of the new vipers come default manual transmission mode. Check that and change to automatic if needed. Most DEI stuff is Menu 3 Option 1

I would also have to say I have had great luck with the DB-ALL as of late. Only carry 3 bypasses in the shop now. DB-ALL FL-CAN and 556U

vipercon99 wrote:

I'll bet the brain insn't bad. I can't remember is this model of remote start manual transmission capable? If so all of the new vipers come default manual transmission mode. Check that and change to automatic if needed. Most DEI stuff is Menu 3 Option 1

The Responder One is not MTS enabled and only has 2 menues not 3!

lucasoil4u wrote:

Sweet Thanks a bunch!! What state you in Lurch228

The mitten state.

The remote start works I just cant get into any programming functions. The Responder one is a base line brain with upgraded remotes. My bitwriter wont even talk to it.

If your bitwriter won't talk too it then you need to update the bitwriter to the newest version Which last I knew was 2.7, but there are some listings for a 2.9 upgrade.

As far as the valet programming it should program if your are folling the steps correctly.

And when you say upgraded remotes what model of remote are you using with the responder one.

Thats all it is from DEI. They use a cheap brain with the better remotes. I have 2.7 and it wont talk to it.

Have you tried pulling the power from the viper Aka the heavy guage plug to see if it will comunicate with the bitwriter then.

I put in a new brain and i was able to do everything that I wanted to do. Works out pretty slick. think the brain was bad as the bitwriter talks with the new brain. Starting to go away from DEI products cause they are hit or miss if you get a new one. Just picked up Excalibur/Arctic start(compustar)/Autopage

Quality control isn't what it used to be for any electronics company. If you use any one brand for any period of time your chances of getting a bad one are very good. If you start getting multiple bad ones then it would be time to change either model line or brand depending on the problem.

I switched brands Compustar/Excalibur/Arctic Start/Autopage. We will see how these do also got away from xpresskit and went to Idatalink.

Even then changing brand dosen't mean your changing manufacture. DEI bought out a lot of the competition. So as to corner the market and continue to sell to cross competeing markets. So DEI essentials, xpresskit, Omega, and fortin are all the same product line different sticker or plastic case.

@lurch228

DEI does NOT own Fortin. However DEI's entire Optimax series are rebadged Fortin modules. The DB-ALL is NOT a rebadged EVO-ALL.

UNITED STATES DISTRICT COURT
MIDDLE DISTRICT OF FLORIDA
ORLANDO DIVISION
OMEGA PATENTS, LLC,
Plaintiff/Counter Defendant,
-vs- Case No. 6:05-cv-1113-Orl-22DAB
FORTIN AUTO RADIO, INC., and
DIRECTED ELECTRONICS, INC.,
Defendants/Counter Claimants.

Which the patents are owned by omega, as the idatalink and omegalink are the same thing.

lurch228 wrote:

UNITED STATES DISTRICT COURT
MIDDLE DISTRICT OF FLORIDA
ORLANDO DIVISION
OMEGA PATENTS, LLC,
Plaintiff/Counter Defendant,
-vs- Case No. 6:05-cv-1113-Orl-22DAB
FORTIN AUTO RADIO, INC., and
DIRECTED ELECTRONICS, INC.,
Defendants/Counter Claimants.

Which the patents are owned by omega, as the idatalink and omegalink are the same thing.

So let me get this right...

You think that because a company stands beside DEI in court that they must be "all the same product line different sticker or plastic case"?

The listing of the 2 separate company names in the case header should be the first clue that they are in fact 2 separate companies. If they were the same company then only DIRECTED ELECTRONICS would be listed.

lurch228 wrote:

FORTIN AUTO RADIO, INC., and
DIRECTED ELECTRONICS, INC.,

Or did you just simply use google to try and find something to support this misconception?

If you still don't believe me please give me a call at Fortin and I'll have the President help verify the facts for you. posted_image

Most of my installs are Compustar now. HAHA DEI has horrible horrible quality control. And I can tell you one thing OMEGA is not DEI, Never Had a bad Omega Product.

If you actually read anything about the court case you would know what is what. And wouldn't be asumming things not said. FYI Omega sued Fortin and Directed for the non-payment of patent rights. As DEI is getting their stuff from fortin and not paying Omega. Omega is the R&D and idatalink is the manufacturing side making them for omega. As Fortin is manufacturing the bypasses and selling them to DEI. In the end all the technology is "mostly" owned by omega and licensed to all the other players. So if you want to contradict the facts with you own truth be my guest, as far as I am concerned I will buy what ever is cheapset out of the bunch not a name brand. Why buy idatalink when omegalink is cheaper and made by the same company for the R&D owner with a different label and part number!

lurch228 wrote:

If you actually read anything about the court case you would know what is what.

I have more privileged knowledge about this case than what was published. I'm trying to set the record straight because there appears to be a vast amount of misinformation being thrown around.

lurch228 wrote:

As DEI is getting their stuff from fortin and not paying Omega.

Not true. At the time of this court case Fortin was not manufacturing anything for DEI. At this time Fortin was only manufacturing the APDataLink Line for AutoPage. DEI's Optimax wasn't available until a few years after this court case.

lurch228 wrote:

In the end all the technology is mostly owned by Omega and licensed to all the other players.

Not true. 'Some' of the 'intellectual property' is licensed by Omega, but the majority of the 'technology' in each is owned by their respective owners. Just because products may share a similar license agreement does not make them equal, nor does it change the ownership of those products.

For example, Apple and Microsoft share several license agreements with each other. This does not mean that Apple 'owns' Microsoft, nor Microsoft 'owns' Apple, nor are Apple or Microsoft manufacture the same products with a different label.

lurch228 wrote:

Why buy idatalink when omegalink is cheaper and made by the same company for the R&D owner with a different label and part number!

Not true. idatalink (ADS) is also a separate independent company just like Fortin. Again, Omega does not 'own' either Fortin or ADS.

Perhaps I am missing your point. Feel free to clarify what you really meant.

Slap what ever case keyboard and OS you want at it it's still a PC buy all rights. Wether it be HP,DELL,IBM-Lenovo they all make PC's using the same parts from vendors not their own soley owened parts. You want to have a brand war over symantics of the basic facts. You don't need to own a company on paper to rebadge a product with your own label and sell it for yourself. Changing a data plug and using a different comunication protocol. Dosen't make it a far superior product for twice the price. You work for fortin so you are biased on your opinion of your quality over another. As if being the best published rated product today gives anyone the win tommorow. Only until the market standards change or the penny crunching pencil pushers need to make more profit then someone else wil be on top. As all publicly traded companies have the number one responability which is to the share holders and that is more profit.