transponder bypass for 2006 corolla

New member here and newbie remote start installer, so any help would be appreciated! After much searching on this awesome forum, I'm having a hard time finding a concise procedure for installing a Python 414 with a flashlogic transponder bypass in a 2006 Corolla. I am electrically skilled but very new to the remote start/alarm realm. My big question is that I'm not sure which ignition wiring is needed and which is replaced by using the keysense. Also the virtual tach thing confuses me, not sure if i need the control center supplied with the 414 or not? Any dumbed down explanation of these subjects would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance

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yannyfreak

Link to Bulldog Security: https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp

It shows that the car has two Ignitions. You need to use them both.  The control center is the antenna unit for the Python. Also used for programming the Python, so you need it.

H1/1 Red, H3/2 RED / White, H3/5 Red, & H3/8 RED / Black will all go to 12 volts constant listed as White(+)

H3/4 Violet to Red(+).....H3/3 Orange to Blue/Red(+).....H3/1 Pink to BLACK/ White(+).....H3/6 to BLACK / YELLOW(+)

H1/2 to chassis ground...If car is an automatic trans H2/2 BLACK/ white to chassis ground..

Use a Digital Multi Meter to TEST and VERIFY all wires on car before connecting to Remote starter...Solder and tape all connections

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Thanks much Smokeman! Couple questions. H3/1 ignition output according to my bypass wiring diagram gets wired to the pink ignition input on the bypass. The bypass then outputs to the keysense along with ignition outputs to the code and txct pins on the corolla ignition. Does this sound right? Also this appears to cover all of my main power connections besides landing door locks,lights etc...correct?? Thanks again

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yannyfreak

Which bypass and firmware are you using?  I have not used a Flashlogic but can look at the wiring diagram.

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its a flashlogic FLCAN programmed for my car by Crutchfield. I'm referencing the idatalink install guide #8982 for my car on their website

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yannyfreak

I must admit my lack of knowledge with the Flashlogic. Maybe someone more knowledgable can chime in on this.

Your question about the H3/1 looks right by the diagram, so I would say it does not get connected to the ignition harness

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I REALLY appreciate all your help so far I'm not in a rush so I'll wait for a chime in! Do you know where the antenna unit for the Python needs to be mounted? Can it be buried under the dash or does it need to be kept visible to transmit? Sorry again for my ignorance, I like installing stuff myself but i didnt realize when i made this purchase how much expertise was assumed by DEI and others when they sell this equipment!

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yannyfreak

The ADS AL (TB) TL Type 2 wiring diagram does not show all the necessary connections from the R/S to the car, only those involved with the
transponder bypass.  Follow Mr. Smokes info for the H3 harness and just add the ADS Pink Ign wire to the H3/1 Pink that is already connected
to the vehicles BLACK/ White Ignition1 wire.  You will still need to connect the R/S to the vehicle for all other functions.

The Flashlogic FLCAN is the same as the ADS AL CA with DBI firmware.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks! so the the H3/1 outputs to the car as normal and the bypass pink can tie right in. Any idea why the ADS diagram is calling it an ignition input?

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yannyfreak

The ADS bypass module uses that Ignition input along with Keysense and the R/S's GWR signal to control its' transponder bypass output signals.

The ADS bypass is a good module.  Just remember to set the Installation Mode and lock it in prior to vehicle programming with the key.

Don't use virtual Tach.  Connect the R/S Tach wire to :   Tachometer     Black (ac)       @ ECM, far left plug, pin 5  ECM is behind glove box.  Set Python
for Engine Sensing = Tach Mode and do the Tach Learn process.

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Soldering is fun!

wow thanks!!! you just answered like my next five questions :) wasn't sure of sequence of programming between the bypass and r/s....I think i have it. You guys obviously do this a bunch...does the bulldog wiring also look accurate as far as door wiring etc.?? i did reference it before posting and became familiar with the car end of things, but i do have a Directwire list that adds turn signal and reverse light wiring??? I'm thinking all i really need is parking lights for start indication right?

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yannyfreak

The wire guide listings provide a lot of info, some of which will not be required for your installation.  Things like door triggers are only necessary
for an Alarm System install ( or a R/S on a Manual Trans vehicle ).

The R/S unit ( Python ) will also have some wires that will not be used for your install.  If you are not sure ( and want to help others using the same
system installed into the same car ) you could post your Python Harness wire connections.  That way forum members can check out the proposed
wiring and add any help / comments / corrections necessary.

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Soldering is fun!

I will do that to be safe. From your last post, I'm reading and dont understand how to set the Python to engine sensing=tach mode. I read up on and understand all the rest.

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yannyfreak

Hey Kreg,

Thanks for stepping in on this one. I have not used a Flashlogic and you helped to clear up the wiring layout in my mind. Maybe I'll try one on my next install.

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Most of the time I mount the antenna up center on the whindshield, behind the rear view mirror. You don't want to bunch up the antenna wire. I have read it reduces it range.

Plus you might want it in a easy spot to enter the menus with it. You will need to get to at least one menu for you install.  Menu 3, Item 1, for Auto Transmission setting, and Mune 3, item 2 for Tach setting.

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thanks Smokeman. I was a little slow on that one but i see the programming menu now! I'll take a day or two here and figure out the rest of my wiring and then post it for a check. I appreciate all the help!!

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yannyfreak

The programming method with the antenna button and the remote will take a bit practice so be patient.

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haha i see EXACTLY what you mean and was thinking the same thing! No indication of what your doing once your in the menu and figuring out that lock and unlock are ascending and descending....i assume ascending means 4to1 and descending 1to4 ??

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yannyfreak

If you can connect the horn wire it will help to hear the short honks as to what menu, item, and feature you are in and doing.

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gotcha thanks

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yannyfreak

yannyfreak,

Here's a little information that might help you. From back when these cars were new:

https://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=10739

Thanks Chris there are a couple handy pointers on that thread!

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yannyfreak

Here is a proposed list of my install including the things I’m still questioning. I have familiarized myself with the cars wiring and I am adept at electrical testing as well as soldering all connections. The remote start side is where I’m lacking. So again please excuse the novice questions! Everyone has been great so far!! I am installing a Python 414 one-way remote start in a 2006 Corolla using a flashlogic FLCAN bypass. The Flashlogic FLCAN is the same as the ADS AL CA with DBI firmware as stated earlier by Kreg.

Python connections

Plugging in the two pin connector for neutral safety switch to the control module and switching it on (any need to have this switch easily accessible?)
Plugging in control center and mounting it to windshield
Using D2D connector from control module to transponder bypass and using no other connectors other than the three listed later
R/S horn input polarity jumper set to (-)
R/S H 1/5 pin on R/S is taped off???

Main Harness 6-pin connector

H 1/1 red to 12+ white 15A
H 1/2 black to chassis ground
H 1/3 brown to gr/y @ horn switch
H 1/4 wh/br light flash to ??? (pin 87a light flash relay)
H 1/5 wh to ??? (pin 30 light flash relay)
     Also don’t know how to land fuse on control module for light flash polarity
H 1/6 orange ground when armed ?? (not sure)

Door Lock Harness 3- connector

H1 blue to (-) unlock to blue/y 10-pin driver kick
H2 not used
H3 green (-) lock to green 10-pin driver kick

Aux Harness 24-pin connector

H 2/2 bl/wh (-) neutral safety input to chassis ground with H ½
H 2/16 brown (+) brake shutdown input to gr/wh on brake pedal switch
H 2/23 violet/wh tach input to black pin 5 of ecm behind glove box

Remote Start Harness 8pin connector

H 3/1 pink to BLACK/ wh ign #1
H 3/2 RED / wh to 12+ white 15A
H 3/3 orange to blue/red acc.
H 3/4 violet to red starter
H 3/5 red to 12+ white 15A
H 3/6 pink/wh to BLACK/ y ign #2
H 3/7 pink/black flex not used
H 3/8 RED / black to 12+ white 15A
** Not sure if I’ve covered needed door and light hookups for a remote start**

ADS bypass

D2D plug connected
Wh/bl keysense to blue/black ignition
Wh to chassis ground
Pink to BLACK/ wh ign with R/S H 3/1
GREEN/ red code to ign pin #4
Gray/red txct to ign pin #5


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yannyfreak

Setting the parking light polarity is set on the brain. On top is a small cover. Remove the cover and install a 10amp mini fuse in the proper position for your car. Center pin is common. One is (+) and the other is (-).  Fuse should have been suppiled with the Viper.

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Thanks Smokeman. I have located it and the mini fuse is supplied. I'm still researching which wires to land for this and determining polarity. It looks like the blue and green wires on the 10-pin driver kick but I'm still reading on this

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yannyfreak

For the Pythons four +12V constant connections, DEI lists two wires at the ignition switch harness. The White is 25 Amps and there should be a Black rated at 15 Amps. Additionally, Toyota typically has a very thick White or Black wire in a separate one-pin connector at the fuse box that is rated at over 100 Amps that can be used for +12V constant power.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg.I guess when i get started with the install I'll simply see which 12+ is most accessible. Is anyone comfortable with giving me a thumbs up for my entire wiring plan including answering those last couple questions i posted? Mostly....am i missing anything especially with light and door lock wiring?? I could land turn signals, etc but i'm not sure which lights are normally wired for indication when doing a R/S   


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yannyfreak

yannyfreak, the wires you list look pretty good. I'll try to make a few comments on them, section by section, using the names you made for each section.

Python connections:

You would turn the toggle switch off before making repairs under the hood, to prevent the car from starting and injuring you. If this were a customer's car, you'd want to consider drilling a hole, mounting the switch, and explaining its operation to the customer. Since it's your own car, I think you'd be OK to zip-tie it under the dash where you can reach it.

I'm pretty sure that plug is taped off so the factory knows which units are new and which are used. Just pull the tape off.

No idea about that horn polarity; that's new to me. But the horn wire in the car is negative.

Main Harness:
WHITE/ brown not used on your car (used for some cars where the light wire has to be cut in half and routed through the remote starter)

Orange ground-when-armed: Are you planning on installing a starter-kill relay to make the car harder to steal and/or as anti-grind so you can't grind the starter when the remote starter is on? That's what this is for. So you'd either connect it to Pin 86 of a starter kill relay, or cut it short and don't use it for anything.

White parking light wire and the fuse: Your car has a negative-trigger parking light wire at the switch in the steering column, and there's also a positive wire (green) running down the driver's door sill to the rear of the car. Your choice as to which way you do it, but the fuse position must match.

(Or, simply explained: If the fuse is in the negative position, the white wire puts out a ground. If it's in the positive position, it puts out a positive.)

Door Lock Harness:
Yes, you have it right.

Tip A: Test these wires while turning the key in the outside of the driver's door.

Tip B: Program your Python for 0.4 second lock pulses and the locks will unlock faster. Also set unit for double-pulse unlock if you want to unlock all the doors at once, or leave this setting alone to retain driver's-priority unlocking.

Aux Harness:
Brake is in the driver's door sill going to the rear of the car. Easier for you, and no chance your wire will get caught up in the pedals if it comes loose. In the door sill, you should find one green (positive parking lights) and two GREEN / WHITEs (must test; only one is brake). I usually just get my lights and brake here together.

Tach: I do this another way. The black trim around the instrument cluster is held in by one fake plastic screw at the top, and then it just pulls out. (As with any car, only pull on plastic panels when the car is warm. I would let car run with heater on maximum for a little while before working).
Once you get that plastic out, you don't even need to remove the cluster or anything. The wires come out of the top of it, on the left side.

You'll see many black wires in the harness. But off to the left side, find a RED / white. (This is door trigger if you were to install an alarm, but you don't need it today.) Anyway, the black wire just to the left of the RED / white is tach.

Remote Start Harness 8pin connector

Everything there is correct. By the way, the blue/red accessory wire just powers up non-essentials like the radio, mirrors, and cigarette lighter. I like to leave this un-connected to keep the radio quiet during remote start. Up to you.

And yes, the only door and lights connections you need for remote starter is locks and parking lights. If you were installing an alarm, you'd want to find door trigger and trunk pin, but you don't need it.

ADS bypass

Yes, you have that all right. A few comments though:

D2D has been a disaster and works when it feels like it. Might want to leave your Python blue/white wire long until you know the install is good, then cut it short if/when D2D works.

The 2-pin connector with keysense, you'll notice the other wire is WHITE/ black. This is a ground wire; connect your white here if you want to.

And something to make those TX/RX wires easier to get right: Pin 3 is always empty. This will help you from counting pins backwards. So, even if you don't know which way to count the pins, it should go like this:
1: wire
2: wire
3: empty
4: connect GREEN/ red
5: connect gray/red

P.S. Was this already mentioned upthread? The 2-pin keysense connector is RIGHT next to the ignition wires. Put your key in the ignition, open the door, unplug the connector and make sure the door chime stops.

Late entry - slow typist...  more of the same

While your location is not shown, I am assuming North America due to the parts source.  This is important
becuase of the Parking Light vs Hazards install difference.  ( You're use of "land" vs tag or connect has me
concerned.)

Here is a link to the Python 414 Install Guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1168
On Page 5 it shows the Parking Light Jumper/Fuse location and setting positions.  You might need
a flashlight to see the markings on the PCB once you get the cover off.  For your 2006 Corolla, set it
to (-) and connect the H1/5 White wire to the GREEN / WHITE (-) Parking Light wire at the headlight switch
connector in the steering column.  The H1/4 WHITE/ Brown wire is not used.

H1/6 is not used.
H2/17 Hood Pin is an important safety feature and should be installed using the hood pin switch
supplied in the Python kit.
The  Door Triggers are not required for your Auto Trans install.

Believe everything else looks OK.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you Chris and thanks again Kreg. You guys are great! I'm going to review all this info today and see if I have it straight. Kreg...yes I am in Pennsylvania. Also I used land as a general term in my ignorance to mean plug in the fuse....it was late :)

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yannyfreak

I have reviewed my plan and made corrections to my wiring scheme as instructed. I think I'm good!!! Just to clarify, I AM going to use the hood pin switch using the Aux harness pin #17 wired to the switch.
Could someone please clarify for me how the neutral safety toggle operates with my Automatic car? Sorry i just like understanding everything I'm doing as well as wiring it correctly! I am connecting the aux harness pin#2 to ground as instructed and plugging the neutral safety two pin toggle to my remote start and having it on. How does this neutral safety work exactly? I believe Chris was referring to my hood pin at the beginning of his post when i was referring to this switch.

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yannyfreak

The R/S's Neutral Safety Input is a signal generated by the vehicle if and only if it is in neutral ( or Park ).  Like
the Hood Pin input or the Brake Pedal input, it will prevent the remote starter from cranking the engine.  Not
all vehicles have this signal available but this safety feature is built in to almost every vehicle with an automatic
transmission.  As part of any install, this should be verified to ensure safety.  Here are the instruction from your
install guide :
Testing the neutral safety switch
1. Make sure there is adequate clearance to the front and rear of the vehicle because it may move slightly.
2. Make sure the hood is closed and there are no remote start shut-downs active.
3. Set the emergency brake.
4. Turn the key to the “run” position, this releases the shifter.
5. Place the car in drive (D).
6. Place your foot directly over the brake pedal, but do not depress it. Be ready to step on the brake if the
starter engages.
7. Activate the remote start system.
8. If the starter engages, immediately depress the brake to shut the remote start system down. If the
starter does not engage, no additional safety system is required.
If the starter engages and the vehicle is a General Motors product or Dodge Dakota pickup, refer to
www.directechs.com for Document 1008 under the Resource tab. For an alternative shut-down method
which prevents the starter from engaging. If the vehicle is not a General Motors product or a Dodge
Dakota pickup, please call Directed Electronics Technical Support for an alternative shut-down method.
Do not return the vehicle to the customer until this feature is properly installed!

The Neutral Safety toggle switch acts as another way to prevent the engine from cranking when set to the
OFF position.  You could use this when you bring your vehicle in to a service / repair shop to prevent
any possibility of the R/S engaging the starter.

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Soldering is fun!

Got it...thanks again Kreg. I saw the instructions but when reading them without the accompanying info i wasn't 100% sure if they were just referring to a manual transmission install. I'm going to do the install Saturday and then post a cleaned up, revised wiring list with my corrections so future rookies like me will have a guide!

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yannyfreak

One last question before i dive in....do you experienced installers out there have luck using an automatic wire stripper to strip your inline wires to tie in without stretching the smaller gauge wires and doing damage??

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yannyfreak

Never tried an automatic wire stripper.  Depending on the wire gauge and available access, I will either use a standard wire stripper or a somewhat dull razor knife.  With practice you get a feel for the insulation vs wire and can safely remove the insulation without nicking or cutting any strands.  But, as in anything else, everyone has their own preferences.

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Soldering is fun!

I use this wire stripper here:

https://www.irwin.com/tools/pliers-adjustable-wrenches/self-adjusting-wire-stripper

This version has the Vise Grip name on it, but I've seen the same tool all over the place with different colors and different brand names. Radio Shack carried it with their house brand Kronus; I'm not sure if they sell it anymore. I've also seen it under the 3M name at a Wal Mart Super Center.

TIPS:

---I've not had a problem with damaging wires like you have in your car, not even the smaller wires. 2009+ Corolla has still, easily broken wires, though. I've had good luck by heating the wire with the flame from a cigarette lighter.

---You'll definitely want everything in the car nice and warm. Cold plastic panels crack when disassembling, but also cold, stiff wires are no fun to work with.

If you're going to bring the car into a garage, keep it outside with the motor running and the heater on maximum for 20-30 minutes first.

I do nearly all of my installations outside with the motor running and heat cranked the entire time. This does require being extra-careful when making connections, as the wires are powered up and shorting them out would blow the car's fuses.

---Those strippers have two things you should be aware of: A fair amount of exposed metal, and inside the handle, a not-so-great wire crimper.

When stripping wires, watch out you don't bump the metal of the strippers against the car's body metal. Not the end of the world if you do, but you could blow a fuse.

When you see the wire crimpers, take note of the pointy parts. It HURTS if you have your fingers in there when you squeeze the srippers!

Since this is your first install, you should plan on the entire weekend for the job. Take it slow, One wire at a time. Test, Verify, and Connect.  Then Double check the correct wire of the r/s to the correct wire of the car.

My first one took three days as I was second guessing what I was doing, (didn't know about this excellent site at that time), and then it didn't work as I had used scotchlocks. Had all the right wires, just lousy connections. 

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Thanks once again for the advice guys :)
Rich....yup while my goal is to know EXACTLY what I'm doing before i start i am allowing the weekend for the install. I have a little OCD going on and i like doing things right the first time!!
Chris... I have this Irwin auto stripper at my disposal so I'm gonna try it inline with one of the heavy wires first and see how it feels. I does seem a little rammy using such a big tool on such intricate work!
Kreg.... I'm with you on the old school way of stripping the wires with a blade. It's what i usually do and will prolly hand strip the small gauge wires at the very least!

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yannyfreak

I'm in the middle of the install and all is going smoothly....except for locating the tach wire...can anyone intimately familiar with the 2006 Corolla help me out?? I'm looking at the ecm as well as the instrument cluster as suggested earlier by Chris. I'm not confident enough with either location to land the wire.
Thanks in advance

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yannyfreak

This from Omega Wiring:

Tach Signal

BLACK

AT ENGINE CONTROL MODULE

Engine Control Module Is Located Under Glove Box.TACH wire Is In The 35 Pin Connector, First From Left.

Test for TACH wire using DMM set to AC Voltage

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Thanks Rich..well except for a slight delay on locating the tach wire, the install went pretty darn smooth! programming not so smooth :( i managed to "fat finger" the bypass while setting its mode and cleared out the programming to it that Crutchfield had done for me. Gotta stop for the night and read how to reprogram the transponder to my car from scratch...ooohhh well. Like a wise man on this forum once said...especially for a newbie...allow a whole weekend for the install!!

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yannyfreak

Wow! Just got back to car yesterday to program the system. Works been crazy! Anyway....after my last post i had to do a factory reset on the transponder bypass which was very easy per the instructions. The rest of the programming went flawlessly and the system works flawlessly. I will be updating my install details in the next couple of days so it's useful to other newbies like me.
One problem did occur during the programming that i will mention. When i was complete, i unplugged the control center so i could fish the wire up to the windshield and reinstall it. The R/S did no like this!! I'm sure there are steps i do not understand that i should have taken but lets just say for inexperienced guys like me, land your wires and leave them once your done. The R/S flaked out and at first the car did not even want to start using the key. I unplugged the entire system and the car battery, and plugged everything back in. Whatever error i cleared worked and I'm back in business.

I will most likely have a couple of questions next weekend when i get back to the car and set some features that i wanna tweak like the way the doors lock/unlock.

One lingering question for the experts now is that the Control Center LED blinks steady when the car is not in use. I don't think it was doing that before i unplugged it for the final install. Is the controller supposed to blink to mimic a security system when the car is parked or is it showing an error?? If it is correct, can it be disabled in features?? If it can i'm not seeing it.
Thanks once again for everyone help!!!


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yannyfreak

Chris, been away some time and haven't really followed this post but two things struck me.
The stripping tool link you posted, WTH don't they make it with a smaller head?
A question ham fisted people like me often ask.
Although as it stands it's quite good for the thin gauge wires on a Toyota.
Our OP posted brown as H1/3 going to a wire on the car. Since all Toyotas use a low current NEG trigger at either the steering column loom or the BCM shouldn't this have been H2/8 BROWN / black?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.