avital 5303l remote start

Hi guys,

I'm a noob here, and this is my first post. A little about me: I'm an ASE certified tech with 16 years experience. I can read wiring diagrams, and know how to follow instructions, so that's not a problem.

I've got a 2002 Toyota Camry SE WITHOUT a transponder module. It's a project car that i got from my step-son. Let me tell you, i have damn near rebuilt this car from the ground up, because my wife's dingle-berry son doesn't know how to take care of s**t.
Anyway, i installed new carpet, new struts ( yes, all 4 ), new timing chain, serp belt, tensioner, installed a JVC KW-AV50 head unit, along with subwoofer and all new speakers. Yeah, I'm having a mid-life crisis. I was going to get it painted, but i kinda ran out of money. Its the slow season for mechanic work, so it's parked in the garage while i take care of a bunch of dings and dents from a hail storm they had in Dallas. I got most of the body work done, and like all WORK-IN-PROGRESS cars, it's got primer here and there, along with bondo here and there. It's too cold to shoot primer on it now, so I've got until March to screw around with it.

My wife bought me an AVITAL 5303 remote start security system for Christmas. I got around to taking the covers off and locating and labeling the necessary wires for most of the functions. Ive read plenty of other forums and posts from other members and websites. And that has helped tremendously.

What i'm asking for here is this:

does anyone have access to the DEI website that can show me, word-for-word, how to hook up the remote start function to this car?

Ive been to their website, and i got the included instructions, but seeing as how this is my FIRST car alarm install, i'm doing what any good tech does...ask for help.

Looking at the install sheet for this model, i see the HEAVY GAUGE RELAY SATELLITE wiring, and i'm kinda at a loss. Also, is the RELAY SATELLITE 4-PIN CONNECTOR used for adding a relay ?

If anyone can help me on this, i'm willing to show my appreciation. I have access to Mitchell-On-Demand repair guide, and also Identa-fix, which is a bas ass technicians website for diagnosing problems with just about any car.

Since time is not an issue here, any personal help I get would benefit us all, as I plan on doing a STEP-BY-STEP guide with both pictures and HD VIDEO.

Once again, I sincerely thank any and all who can respond and help.

Greetings and welcome to the 12 Volt!

For the most part, nothing like a step by step guide for the installation of the exact products into that
exact vehicle exist.  But not to worry, there are many expert 12V installers on this site that can assist
you on this project.

First and foremost is your ability to use a Digital Multi Meter and soldering gun.  I image you have both
and are somewhat experienced in their use.

Next step is to watch some generic how-to install videos like these :
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/remoteStartervideo500.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUo_2_ysmd4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FgLK5DQefA&feature=relmfu
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8PKVGRBKfs&feature=relmfu

After that you will want to obtain all the wiring guide info / listings from all available sources :
Bulldog Security : https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp
Ready Remote :
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Audiovox ( free sign-up screen )
https://techservices.audiovox.com/AccessRequest.aspx

Then compare all that info and make up a cheat sheet listing all the Avitals'  harnesses with their vehicle destination.
You can post that here for review / assistance.

This should get you started.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanbkis for the quick replay KREG

I've been to the BULLDOG website, and thats where i got most of my info from.

Whats got me scratching my head is the Avital Quick Refence Guide for the HEAVY GUAGE RELAY SATELLITE. here is what it looks like:

➤ < size=3 face=FuturaCondMedium,FuturaCondMedium>< size=3 face=FuturaCondMedium,FuturaCondMedium>Heavy gauge relay satellite wiring diagram

< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/1	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> PURPLE	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> STARTER OUTPUT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE)
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/2	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> GREEN	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> STARTER INPUT FROM IGNITION (KEY SIDE)
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/3	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> RED	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/4	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> ORANGE	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/5	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> PINK	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/6	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> RED	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/7	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> PINK/WHITE	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/8	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> RED / WHITE	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT

Am i going to have to cut some wires from the Ignition switch and place the PURPLE & GREEN wire in their respectve place? Here is the wiring info from BULLDOG. The wire colors have been confirmed by doing a visual on my car.

12 VOLT CONSTANT	WHITE/ RED (+) (12 Gauge)	@ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG
STARTER	BLACK/ WHITE (+), See NOTE #5	@ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG
STARTER 2	BLACK / YELLOW (+) (20 Gauge), See NOTE #5	@ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG
IGNITION 1	BLACK/ RED (+) (14 Gauge)	@ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG
IGNITION 2	BLACK / YELLOW (+) (20 Gauge)	@ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG
IGNITION 3	N/A
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1	BLUE/RED (+) (18 Gauge)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG

Here is the ignition wiring :

Avital          Wire name 2002 Camry
H1 Purple Starter Out   BLACK/ White  Cut - vehicle side
H2 Green Starter In BLACK/ White  Cut - key side
H3 Red     +12V         WHITE/ Red
H4 Orange   Acc1         Blue/Red
H5 Pink     Ign1          BLACK/ Red
H6 Red     +12V         WHITE/ Red
H7 Pink/White      Ign2           BLACK / YELLOW
H8 RED / White      +12V         WHITE/ Red

You don't have to cut the vehicles Starter1 wire if you don't want the Starter Kill feature of the Avital alarm
system.  In this case, leave the BLACK/ White Starter1 wire un-cut and only connect the Avital's H1 Purple
wire.  Leave the Avital's Green wire unused.

Your car has two Starter wires and both need to be powered during a remote start.  The Avital 5303 has
a fairly easy way to do this using an extra external 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and a 20 Amp fuse / fuse holder.
Use this Avital wire to control the relay :
Remote start ribbon harness
5  PURPLE  (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON

Wire Relay as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to Avital PURPLE  (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant ( WHITE/ Red @ Ignition harness )
Relay Pin 30 to BLACK / YELLOW @ Ignition harness

Your main issue will be correctly identifying the ignition wires, being as Toyota has used the BLACK / YELLOW
color combo twice in the same connector.  Both are 20 gauge wires, one is Starter2 and the other is
Ignition2.  Your DMM will make this task easy.

Does the car have a Factory Alarm?  If you don't have a transponder based ignition immobilizer system, you
can use the the Avital's Blue (-) 200mA Status Output connected to the vehicles Keysense wire to disarm the
Factory Alarm.

That takes care of the thick ignition wires.  If you are going to order relays, get two.  You will need another
for the trunk release.

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg

Once again, thanks. I had read on another post (dated in june 2002) about an installer that had mentioned the smaller guage wires and the absolute need for using relays.

I'm going to order the realys right now, and with Amazon shipping, i'll have them by friday or saturday.

Like i said, since this is my first install, i'll be back for more help. I'll spend my time wisely, looking at relay wiring and what not. Your never too old to learn new stuff.

And just so everyone here knows....i've hated...HATED...any kind of electrical diag on vehicles. Just so many thnings that can go wrong, and when your flat-rate, electrical diag is the worst.

Sincerely appreciate your help....

Not too sure about needing relays with small gauge wires.  The relay used for Starter2 in this application
is due to the Avital's limited ignition outputs ( or the Camry's need for 5 ignition wires ).  With your Camry,
you will find both thick and thin ignition wires.  It is OK to connect the R/S's thick ignition output wires to
the vehicles thin ignition wires.

The relay needed for the trunk release is due to the R/S's output type ( low current (-) ) and the vehicles
trunk release circuit type ( 5 wire reverse ).

Yes, read up on relays, get a new battery for your DMM and practice soldering. 
Get ready for some real fun!  

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Soldering is fun!

Hey levithan,

Sounds like you've already got good information from kreg; he's been on the forum for a long time too.

I know you still have to learn about relays, but in most applications a relay is used like this: You have an item(alarm, toggle switch, whatever) that has a very weak output, not strong enough to power up your device (engine, light bulb, whatever) directly.

So if I'm making any sense so far.....let's just simplify it. You have a little tiny 25-cent baby toggle switch, and you want to power up a dozen fog lights on a Jeep. If you put one end of the switch directly to the battery, and the other end of the switch to the fog lights, the switch would quickly fail.

So what you do instead is you use your 25-cent switch to turn on ONLY the relay, and then the relay (which can usually carry 30 or 40 amps), "jumps" battery power from the battery to the fog lights. With that little tiny switch, you could light up a football stadium if you want.

Anyway.......that XCRS Relay Satellite or whatever they call it, IS just a bunch of relays in a plastic box all pre-wired for you. (Most manufacturers build all this stuff into the remote starter's main box. Only DEI uses an external relay pack).

So, they've already configured most of the relays for you. You should only need to buy two relays: One for the second starter wire, one for the trunk release.

You said you would like a step-by-step guide; there isn't one. But I've done a lot of those cars so I can give you some idea of where to find your wires.

The tech sheets you will find online are usually accurate about wire colors, but are often not the best/easiest places to find said wire.

STEERING COLUMN:
In the column you'll find all the wires coming from the ignition switch. There's also the negative parking like wire (I usually don't use this), horn (I get this somewhere else), and you'll notice that the key cylinder in the car has a ring that lights up with the door open. Get your door trigger at the illumination ring wire; much easier than using diodes for all the separate doors.

BOTTOM EDGE OF FUSE BOX:
In the plug at the bottom edge of the fuse box, you'll find parking lights, brake, and horn.

TO THE RIGHT OF THE STEERING COLUMN:
You'll see a handful of plugs here. One is gray, and has two BLACK/ orange wires in it. The BLACK/ orange closer to the center of the plug is tachometer.

DRIVER'S KICK PANEL:
First, wiggle the rubber boot that goes into the driver's door, and you'll see the same wires wiggling inside the car, going to three plugs all in a row close to the front. Lock in the bottom plug, unlock in the top plug.

Now, a little bit lower, closer to the back of the car, is a plug with a WHITE/ blue wire in it. That's your trunk release. Be sure to read the Relays section (on this site) and learn about how to do a 5-wire trunk. You'll be cutting the car's WHITE/ blue, not just splicing into it.

PREPARING YOUR SYSTEM FOR INSTALLATION:

Most installers prepare or "prep" the system on a workbench or table before installation. The job will not only come out neater, but saves time and back pain. 20 minutes at the bench beats 45 minutes laying down under the dash!

I'd say most installers can do a bench prep in 10-15 minutes. I'd allow myself 20 for the DEI systems with the old-style separate relay pack. If you're a newbie you might easily take an hour. Just put on the radio or TV, grab a drink, lay out your paperwork and tools.

STEP 1: Step 1 is ALWAYS find and test the wires in the car, so you know where you'll be going to make your connections. Have a plan as to where you're going to mount your brain. I suggest zip ties behind the fuse box.

STEP 2: All peripherals like the remotes, antenna, shock sensor....these should go in a small box that you'll keep in the car so you have these items at hand during installation.

STEP 3: Connect all the plugs to the brain, cut off the ones you won't use (but leave a few inches of wire for future upgrades), and make your system into one cohesive thing, with all your desired wires coming out of one end.

Take whatever wires will be going to one specific location, and dress them together. For example, you know that the lock and unlock wires will be going to pretty much the same place. I like to twist them together with my drill chuck; others prefer wrapping them with black tape.

Anyway........

The goal here is to do as much as you possibly can at the bench, and and leave as little as possible inside the car.

Your prep should allow you to do the following:

Jump into car, loosely put brain where it's going to go. Maybe just jam it in there, maybe hang it loosely with one zip tie. Don't fully tie it in yet; you may need to drop it down again to correct potential errors.

You should be able to immediately grab a bundle of wires you've already pre-dressed to be together, run them to their appropriate location, RE-TEST the wires you found, connect the wire, and tape it.

Really that should be it, just run wire, retest, connect, insulate, and on to the next.

ABOUT THAT SATELLITE RELAY PACK: I hate those things. Adds installation time, and makes it hard to keep the system neat.

You'll have a decision to make here: You can choose to Velcro or double-stick tape or zip-tie the relay harness to the main brain, making it into one single system to install. Or, tape any necessary other wires along the ribbon cable, and then you'll have two separate things to mount.

I suggest doing a google image search, and/or look closely at any used DEI remote starters for sale on eBay. The used systems will already have been "prepped" before, and you can see how another installer did it.

Just some examples......

https://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-parts-accessories/89405-viper-5701-help-remote-start-security.html
In this picture, you can see that someone just jumped into the car and started hooking up wires. Not only does this job look horrendous, but the person is probably spending hours and hours crouched under the dash unnecessarily.

https://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?31150-FS-Python-Remote-start!-Installed-your-garage!
This system has a little more tape than I would use, and the installer chose to have two bundles of wire coming out instead of just one, but you'll see how the wires have been routed so they pretty much come out on one end.

https://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=487929&page=99&fpart=2
This prep is from a very experienced installer; I know him. Note the wires spun in the drill.

https://www.d-series.org/forums/audio-electronics/96234-keyless-entry-installation-basics-lots-pics.html
Many installers like to screw the brain to their workbench. You could also put it in a bench vise. Either way, this site offers a full pictorial of bench prep.

Man, you guys are the cats ass !! I mean that in a good way. Well, I went to work today, and printed out the wiring diagrams from Mitchell-on-Demand for my car. The ones I needed anyway. Grabbed my Underhood work light, DVOM, Snap-On butane soldering gun, solder, flux, Power Probe, cutters, strippers, drill chuck for my small Dewalt impact gun, and shrink wrap tubing. When I get home, it's off to the garage to start testing wires and mapping out this install.

I'm a bit OCD when it comes to installing anything with wires. It once took me 3 days to wire up a 20 foot trailer, but the company I worked for back then has never had a problem with the trailer lights going out in the middle of the night while hauling a critical load to the job site. I don't believe in scotch locks or wire taps. They just invite corrosion and poor contacts. Everything I do is soldered and covered with shrink wrap. It's just the only way to do it right.

Once again, thanks for every suggestion you guys have given me. It hasn't gone up-noticed.

Chris,

Where did you find the photo of my first install!!? On the Titan

Just kiddin'...close to it.

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Hey kreg,

I'm wiring the Relay Satellite Relay right now. Since I've got 3 heavy gauge wires going to the WHITE/ RED wire at the ignition switch, I took the H/5 RED and the H/7 RED / WHITE and spliced them into the H/3 RED wire. That way, I can connect only 1 wire to the WHITE/ RED wire.

As I was wiring the relay, you didn't specify where to put the 20 amp inline fuse. I'm assuming I can connect Pin 86 and 87 together, connect the inline fuse to both ends, and solder the other end to the H/3 RED wire that will be connected to the WHITE/ RED wire of thenignition switch. Am I correct ?

Yes, the relay fuse is on the wire connected to Pins 86 and 87.  If you combine the Avital's power wires, just join two
and try to keep the double loaded section very short before the junction with the Camry's supply wire.  I believe you
will find a very thick +12V constant supply wire at the fuse box that can used also.  Remember that each thick Avital
wire is rated at 30 Amps, so joining them all into one long run to the WHITE/ Red isn't a good idea ( think the WHITE/ Red
is rated at 50 Amps ).  I would strip off an inch of insulation from the WHITE/ Red and make two wire connections at
this point, H3 + H5 and H7 + Starter2 relay.

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Soldering is fun!

ok...i got alomst everything wired in, expect for the door triggers and the parking light flash. When i hit the remote start button, i get the little "chime", the dash lights turn on, the climate contorl turns on, and I get just a quick "pop" of the starter. It never lasts longer than 1 second. I've checked my fuses, ive checked my connections, the relay you asked me to wire in is clicking, but only for a split second.

Ive done the TACH learn, but still no good.

Ok...any suggestions ?

Are you sure that you don't need a bypass for this car?  Try putting the key in the ignition, do not turn it, then try to remote start. If it starts yor need a bypass.

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Have you checked the Avitals Shutdown Diagnostics for a cause code?

Have you tried starting the car with a key and then going into PitStop Mode?

Did you program the Avital for Engine Checking = Tach Mode ( Menu 3, Item 1, Opt 4 )?

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Soldering is fun!

Ok...I'm out in the garage, and I just figured it out. I had tipped into the PARK/NEUTRAL signal wire going to the PCM. I had installed the toggle switch between the H3/1 and the P/N switch input. I could start the car with the key ( it's just a plain metal key) but not with the remote start function. Well, I finally gave up for the night, and went inside to play some games. Well, started reading other posts, and came across one dealing with the P/N input. Since I know this camry won't start in gear- design is built in- I decited to try and remove the wire and just ground it. When I did...she started right up.

Man, once again, thanks for all you replies. I'll spend the next couple of days finishing the wiring. I'll need some help with doing the trunk latch relay, but other than that, mi about done with this.

I now have a better understand of what this job takes, and trust me, you guys have more patience that I do. And I understand that you guys should be paid what your worth doing stuff like this. And I never got into doing bypass kits. Thank god !,

Good catch!  With most all newer auto trans vehicles it is perfectly safe to connect the Neutral Safety wire to chassis ground ( or EBrake ).

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Soldering is fun!

Glad to hear you got it going.  The Bulldog site has a very good diagram of a Neg(-) trunk pop relay set up on the wiring guide for the camr.

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Ok guys, I've taken a few days off from working on the alarm. I'm about to get somewhat busy with it again. I did the 5 wire relay for the trunk, and I'll be damned....it works! All I have to do now is get the wiring all cleaned up. I decided to not install a hood pin switch, but rather just to ground it out.

NOW...for the door trigger, do I connect the H1/8 GREEN (-) door trigger input, zone 3 to the blue key sense wire for my door triggers?

Also, when I hit the LOCK button on the remote, all the doors will LOCK, but when i hit unlock, only the drivers door will UNLOCK. What am I doing wrong?

Don't ground the Hood Pin input wire.  That will prevent a remote start.  You really should try to connect it
as it is an important safety feature.  If the car has the Factory Hood Pin, you can connect to this wire :
Hood Pin     Black (-)        @ theft ECU behind glove box
Another way is to install a tilt switch on the hood.  Easy to do, lasts a long time and only costs about $7.

The door unlock is normal ( called "priority unlock" ).   It's a safety feature of the vehicle in case someone
is hiding on the far side of the car, out of view, as you approach and unlock the car.  Anyway, if you want
all four doors to unloack at once, set the Avital to Unlock = Double Pulse or you could connect the Avital's
Unlock output to this wire ( info from Ready Remote ) :
Can also use the passenger door key cylinder wire for unlock, which only requires a single pulse. It is
 blue/white (-) in the passenger kick, door harness.

Here is the info on the Door Trigger ( also from Ready Remote ) :
Can also use the door ajar indicator wire, which will catch all doors. It is RED / black (-) at the upper left of the fuse box.

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Soldering is fun!

Hi guys,
I am getting ready to install the same RS on my wife's 2005 camry. I am pretty sure the wiring is the same, and this thread is a great time saver for me, but I had a few questions.

On the primary harness H1/2 (+)Red Constant Power Input - attatch this to the same 12V 30A(WHITE/ red) as the ones from the heavy gauge relay (H3,6 & 8 and 2nd starter relay)? Or use the 12V 5A (white) in the ignition harness? Or from somewhere else?

On H4/2 (-) Horn Output do I need to use a relay?

Also I am unclear on how to connect the H2/1 (-) Second Lock Output. The car is press once for drivers door unlock, twice for all doors. Do I need to connect this to retain that ability?

Last is H3/5 (-) 200mA rear defogger - any advice on where the wire is located and does this need a relay?

If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks!

For the Viper power input wires, don't use the Toyota's 5A wire at the ignition harness.  Connect everything to the
WHITE/ Red 30Amp wire, or better yet use the very thick +12V constant wire at the fuse box.

No need for a relay on the Horn output.  The car can use the Vipers (-) Horn output directly connected to the Camry's
Horn Trigger    GREEN/ Black  (-)      @ switch or bottom of fusebox, 24 pin plug

If you want to have the Progressive Unlock feature ( like the Factory Remotes ) just connect the Viper's Blue Unlock
wire directly to this wire : Power Unlock     Blue (double pulse)  (-)        DKP or BECU, top plug, pin 22   The first
Viper Unlock button press will unlock the drivers door and the second unlock ( within 2 seconds ) will unlock the rest.
H2/1 will not be used.

Here is some info on the Rear Defrost :
 Rear Defrost    YELLOW /GREEN (-)    8 PIN CONN,FRT RT OF FUSE/JUNC BOX
Not positive ( test to be sure ) but a 7 minute (-) latch output should do it.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the fast response Kreg, hopefully I can get started on the install this weekend. I did have another question.

I will not be installing the a alarm at the moment, just the starter and locks, and I saw your earlier post about not cutting the Starter 1 wire and leaving the Green (H2) wire unused. If I do cut it and attach H1 to the ignition side, H2 to the starter side, will that act as an anti-grind and prevent the starter from engaging with a key turn after a remote start?

Ok just one more question. Since I am not installing the alarm, do the door trigger wires need to be connected?

Thanks again, and thanks Chris for the wire locations, hopefully I can keep the post-prep install time under a day.

Viper and Avital are not my usual brands.  I am using an older Avital 5303 install guide and it
very well could be out of date for your 5303L system.

I don't have any complete documentation on the Avital 5303L system.  It appears to be very
similar to standard Viper units.  If that is the case, here is the description of the Menu 3-13
Anti-Grind programming option :
3-13 Anti-Grind: On (1) OFF (2): With the anti-grind On (default) the GroundWhen-
Armed output is active during remote start operation. This activates the
starter kill relay and prevents the customer from re-cranking the car with the key,
when doing key takeover. If accessories such as a voice module or window
module are added to the unit, it may be necessary to use the two-chirp setting
to program this feature OFF.
This leads me to believe that cutting the vehicles Starter wire and connecting both Avital H1 Violet
and H2 Green wires to the correct sides of the cut starter wire will provide both Starter Kill and Anti-
Grind with 3-13 set to it's default ON setting.

Once again, same Viper / Avital warning.  Never tried connecting an Alarm system without making
all alarm connections.  Here is one "gothca".  If you plan on using the Avital remote FOB's for setting
the programming options ( instead of the BitWriter ) and this 5303L system is similar to the older 5303,
here is the first step ( and an important note ) from the install guide : 
1. Open a door. ((The GREEN wire, H1/8, or the VIOLET, H1/6 must be connected.)
The wires mentioned at the (-) or (+) Door Trigger wires.  You can get around this by just briefly touching
the Green (-) Door Trigger wire to chassis ground at this programming step.

Just a minor correction on a possible typo :
I will not be installing the a alarm at the moment, just the starter and locks, and I saw your earlier post about
not cutting the Starter 1 wire and leaving the Green (H2) wire unused. If I do cut it and attach H1 to the ignition
side, H2 to the starter side, will that act as an anti-grind and prevent the starter from engaging with a key turn
after a remote start?
You have the H1 and H2 wire connections reversed.  H1 Violet goes to the starter ( vehicle ) side and H2 Green
goes to the key ( ignition switch ) side.

 

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kreg, I was a bit confused about the anti-grind but re-reading it it makes sense to me now. I was also going to attach the door trigger input for the purpose of programming, but I will wait until I do the alarm install later, and just use the green (-) to ground for now. Thanks again for saving me hours of time.

After re-reading Chris Luongo's post about the wire locations, I realized I could just get the door trigger by connecting the H1/8 green (-) at the illumination ring wire, or do I need to use the H1/6 (+) violet door trigger wire?
Thanks!

Hey dpb67.....after JUST finishing installing this alarm in my car, i thinbk i can help you out a little. For the door trigger, i used a red wire wire with silver dashes on it. It is located on the inside fuse box, left hand side, at the very top. This wire reported all 4 doors, and it was easier to run my wite to, as i ran alot of them down the left hand side amnd to the kick panel.

here is a picture. You see the red wire the clip is on...Thats NOT it. You then have a RED with YELLOW with SILVER DASH.....now, move over one more, to the red with SILVER DASH and thats the wire i used.

Let me know if you need any other pictures, as i still have not put all the covers back together.

Crap...i forgot to tell you...you need to use the H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER.

Thanks for the info and the pic levithan, I will look for that wire and test it out, I think the wiring s/b similar on my 2005. My relays didn't come yet so it will be a few days until I get under the dash, hopefully I have all the info I need.

Hey guys, i'm back.

I just had a VERY starnge thing happen. I was on my way home from work, just picked up a pizza, and was about 2 miles from home. My wife called all freaked out. "Honey, you have a problem. The car just started....all by it's self !"  I got home 30 seconds later, went into the garage, and sure enough, i could smell exhaust fumes. The keys are for the car are sitting on the passenger side seat, and the remotes are hanging up on thye key holder we have mounted on the wall. I felt the exhaust manifold and it was only slightly warm, so i'm figuring it only ran for maybe less than 1 minute.

I was finishing the install yesterday, and got into the programming the unlock button for a DOUBLE PULSE UNLOCK. Could I have changed something from the default setting ? it did take me a few tries to figure out how to get into certain sections of the menu by using the VALET SWITCH. I know some alarms with remote start have a feature that will start the car if the tempature falls below a certain tempature, but I'm not sure if this alarm has that feature. It is cold today, but only a low of 50-55 degrees. 

I have the fuse to the pulled out from the car battery, because I'm not taking any chances on this car starting while were sleeping or gone for the day while at work.

Any ideas on why this happend would be great. And thanks again for your replies.