Printer Friendly Forum Posts - viper 5904 will not start by key

I am attempting to troubleshoot a viper 5904 + iDatalink module (via D2D) in my wife's 2012 Honda Civic LX. Everything is installed as of two days ago. Everything alarm related is functional. On the remote start side.. not so much. At first I was having issues with the car not cranking at all during the remote start process. The remote would say it is starting, the car gauges would light up but and the viper unit would click but nothing else.

My current issue this: While fiddling with it tonight making sure the idatalink properly flashed/programmed for my configuration and pondering the possible issues. I attempted to start the car via remote a few times without success. I then attempted to start the car by turning the key in the ignition... nothing.. I figured maybe I ran the battery dead. Not the case. After sweating bullets for a while and jumping the starter wires purple and green at the harness that plugs into the viper unit then turning the key.. it fired right up. I'm thankful it did because I did not want to explain to the wife how I fried her brand new car.

Is it possible that the remote start is fried within the viper unit?

Need more info. Which iDatalink bypass module? Some only handle the transponder bypass while others will do that and a whole lot more. Additionally, most require a special firmware flash (DBI vs ADS firmware ) to go D2D with a Directed system ( Viper, Avital, etc ).

Have you installed Viper systems before? The H3 harness can be tricky ( wire labels vague ). The Neutral Safety setup and the Manual Transmission Mode default are other poorly documented areas. Listing your H3 connections for forum members to check is a good start.

Have you tried to check the Vipers Shutdown Diagnostics? This will give you an idea of the remote start failure.

Can you enter into PitStop mode? That will verify that most of the ignition wires are correct.

Have you connected the Tach wire, programmed the Viper to Tach Mode and performed the Tach Learn Process? That is the most reliable way to remote start an engine.

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Soldering is fun!

Living and learning..

So.. I was thinking about what I could have done to f#ck this thing up..

I read the install manual and it says "Never use a test light or logic probe when installing this unit. Always use a multi-meter."

I used a test light to check for output on the H3/4 Violet Starter output (car side of starter kill) wire.

Probably fried it.

Any possible way to repair this? (Aside from purchasing new unit)

Actually, the only safe place to use a test light would be those thick, high current, ignition wires.

Your Viper should be OK if that is all you used the test light on. Usually it's the vehicle and its' delicate computers that get fried by test light use, As long as the Civic is working 100% OK by the key, you should be fine.

Perhaps if you listed your H3 wire connections...

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Soldering is fun!

H3/1 pink connected to blue
H3/2 See below
H3/3 orange        connected to orange
H3/4 violet connected to yellow (car side)
H3/5 green connected to yellow (key side)
H3/6 see below

H3/2 RED / white    connected to white
H3/6 red     connected to white
H1/1 red     connected to white
(All 3 are soldered the same white. All fuses are intact)

Forgot an important one, H3/9.

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT    Blue
H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)       White
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT       Orange
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)       Yellow   cut
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)           Yellow   cut
H3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)       White
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT             Red   *** Set Viper to Flex Relay = ACC2 ( Menu 3, Item 8, Opt 2 )
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT    Not Used
H3/9 RED / BLACK ACC/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) White
H3/10 NC No Connection

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Soldering is fun!

I have not read anything about H3/9 being used. Would you happen to know how/where to go about connecting it?

So, connect H3/7 to red and H3/9 to white then set it up for flex relay in settings. Right?

Yes.
H3/7 supplies power to the Civics Accessory2 circuit.
H3/2 supplies power to the Vipers Flex Relay ( ACC2 ).
H3/6 supplies power to H3/1 IGN1 relay.
H3/9 supplies power to the Vipers ACC1 and Starter relays.

While ACC2 might be optional and not an issue when trying to get the Viper to crank the engine,
H3/9 is very important.

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Soldering is fun!

Your the man. Thanks.

Do you think the car will fire by key once all this is properly connected? Any ideas why it did fire and now it does not?

Might be a few days before I get around to correcting the wires. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again for the help.

If the car is working OK now, adding the R/S and all its' wiring should not have any affect on normal vehicle operation. The normal key start and everything should still function.

Listing the other Viper harness / connections will allow more help / feedback. There some "gotcha's" with the iDatalink bypass module if you are not familiar with them, too.

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Soldering is fun!

im thinking youhave the purple and the green heavy gauge starter interrupt wires reversed! the green shoudl go to the key side of the cut starter wire and the purple should go away side( sending power during crank cycle)

put the starter wire you cut back together, andf only hook the purple output up to it and test, you would only be living without the starter interrupt circuit portion of the alarm

jim hunter wrote:

im thinking youhave the purple and the green heavy gauge starter interrupt wires reversed! the green shoudl go to the key side of the cut starter wire and the purple should go away side( sending power during crank cycle)

Green IS going to key side
Purple IS going to car side

6sick6 wrote:

jim hunter wrote:

im thinking youhave the purple and the green heavy gauge starter interrupt wires reversed! the green shoudl go to the key side of the cut starter wire and the purple should go away side( sending power during crank cycle)

Green IS going to key side
Purple IS going to car side

How did you check?
Following what jim hunter said and reconnect the yellow start wire back together. Than try starting the vehicle with the key, if it works than you either made the connections wrong or the unit is defective.

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

91stt] wrote:

6sick6 wrote:

jim hunter wrote:

im thinking youhave the purple and the green heavy gauge starter interrupt wires reversed! the green shoudl go to the key side of the cut starter wire and the purple should go away side( sending power during crank cycle)

Green IS going to key side
Purple IS going to car side

How did you check?
Following what jim hunter said and reconnect the yellow start wire back together. Than try starting the vehicle with the key, if it works than you either made the connections wrong or the unit is defective.

Wow..

How did I check? I installed it.

I made a wire with two male ends and looped the purple and green @ the H/3 plug and the car fired right up (this is in the original post)

The car fired by key for first two days. Then stopped. That's when I looped the plug connecting the spliced ignition wires.

Are we soldering all our connection points? posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

Yes, all connections are soldered.

if your gonna have an attitude about the questions we as experienced installers are asking then your not gonna get much help i dont understand how you looped the purple and green back together with 2 male plugs, but simple deductions here if you reconnected the cars starter wire and the car started then youve ruled out the car having a problem and have now tracked it to the internal kill switch is not closin therefore the problem is in the viper unit and or the programming of options on that unit

I do appreciate your help. Seeing as I'm not a pro, if the viper unit is toast them I've lost out because I'm not under warranty. Correct?

Viper will not honor a warranty on a DIY install. Even if the internal Starter Relay is not returning to the N.C. position for Pin 30 to 87a, you might still make the Viper remote start work .

There are a few things you can try. First, reconnect the Civics cut starter wire and make sure everything works normally. Then connect the Vipers' Violet Starter Output wire and see if you can get the remote start to function ( as suggested by Jim Hunter ). If this works, the only thing you lost was the StarterKill / Anti-Grind feature. These can added later using an external relay and other Viper outputs.

If the remote start function still doesn't work (because of no output on the Violet wire), you can check to see if the Viper's (-) 200mA Starter Output is still working properly. If it is, you can wire up an external Starter Relay to connect to the Civics Starter wire.

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Soldering is fun!