Printer Friendly Forum Posts - doubts, spy f10s alarm

Hi experts,

Finally, I bought a car alarm spy F10S; and I have differents doubts.

I attach two screenshot which red circle where I have problems:

1 - What is the point connecting the ON STR and lock the car? Does it have to do with the remote start? If so, if I do not connect it because I do not want to use the remote start could be any problem.
2 - My closing is positive, where do I have to connect the white wire and the white / black?
3 - My closing is positive, what's that blue cable that comes up and where I have to connect the cable?
4 - What is the difference between STR, ON and ACC?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

Could you print all the wiring plus your car details having said that the product is IMO a POS.
Oh wait isn't this the Toyota?
If so your locks are NEG.
And of course forget any real range but then you get what you pay for.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Plug 6 P refers to the R/S outputs, only connect the 12V+ constants and the ON.
The lock diagram as circled but the 2 wires connect to NEG not POS input.
At the bottom, you want the NEG door trigger wire connect to the domelight in the car, the wire that switches to ground (=earth, = massa, = (-)) when you open a door.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Plug 6 P refers to the R/S outputs, only connect the 12V+ constants and the ON.
The lock diagram as circled but the 2 wires connect to NEG not POS input.
At the bottom, you want the NEG door trigger wire connect to the domelight in the car, the wire that switches to ground (=earth, = massa, = (-)) when you open a door.

Hi again howie ll...

I know, I think I bought a very normal alarm, I hope more or less good results; I want spend this money... could be, I will regret.

I have in pdf all wires of my car, but I do not how can put here.

My car is a Toyota, are you sure the connection of the door and the lock is negative? One friend told me that the lock were positive.

The 1st circle, where appear the Plug 6 P; I will not connect the STR, have I to connect to 12V+ and 12V- constant? Or only 12V+? Can I connect the ON to the ACC?

The 2nd circle, where I have to connect the other 2 wire?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

~~Get Modric back to us at Tottenham Hotspur~~ and I will help.
Never known a Toyota to have anything but NEG locks, NEVER listen to friends.
Yes to 12V+, 12V- and ON (= Ign)
The second circle the other two wires marked NC, ORANGE and ORANGE / BLACK aren't connected.
My email address is on my profile, please email me the pdf.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

~~Get Modric back to us at Tottenham Hotspur~~ and I will help.
Never known a Toyota to have anything but NEG locks, NEVER listen to friends.
Yes to 12V+, 12V- and ON (= Ign)
The second circle the other two wires marked NC, ORANGE and ORANGE / BLACK aren't connected.
My email address is on my profile, please email me the pdf.

ok... I will connect to NEG.

Is the ON the same of ACC? Can I connect to ACC or is different?

The 2nd circle; marked with NC aren´t connected; YELLOW and YELLOS/BLACK are connected to NEG; and what happend with the other two?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

No ignore ACC, you're looking at a wire which goes live on position 2 of the switch and STAYS live whilst cranking.
The other two go to the lock/unlock triggers on the car.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

No ignore ACC, you're looking at a wire which goes live on position 2 of the switch and STAYS live whilst cranking.
The other two go to the lock/unlock triggers on the car.

Ok, so... I will have to look for the ON, because I do not know this wire...

The other two, how can know what of them go to lock and the other to unlock? Or it does not matter?

Regards,

You buy a Digital Multimeter and TEST.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ALARM     CAR     LOCATION
6P
Brown     BLACK/ red     Fuse junction box left of steering column or ignition loom
Red     Thick white     Ditto
Black     Grounding Bolt     Any M6 (10mm) bolt to body nr to above, use a ring terminal

12P
Yellow     Grounding bolt     Join to above
Yellow/black     Ditto     Ditto
White*     BROWN / white     Kick panel or fuse junction box LOCK (-) Alt. Blue/red
WHITE/ black*     GREEN / WHITE     Ditto UNLOCK (-) Alternative Blue.
Brown     GREEN / WHITE     Steering column loom
Brown     GREEN/ YELLOW     Ditto
RED / Black Don’t use unless you find the motor wire**

TEST EVERYTHING!!!!
The factory diagrams are over complicated and the install diagram is a joke!
There appears to be no hood (bonnet) pin input either.

In all honestly I could have tested for and done the wiring in less time than it took me to produce this.

*The install diagram doesn’t specify which one is lock and which is unlock!

** Won’t work the RED / yellow car wire, that’s NEG.
If an electric (solenoid) trunk (boot) release is factory fitted, take the red and black to the motor (+) wire.

Very poor product, no provision for NEG trunk release or NEG indicators which would be much easier on your car, light green at the Hazard switch.

Give Modric back to us.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

ALARM     CAR     LOCATION
6P
Brown     BLACK/ red     Fuse junction box left of steering column or ignition loom
Red     Thick white     Ditto
Black     Grounding Bolt     Any M6 (10mm) bolt to body nr to above, use a ring terminal

12P
Yellow     Grounding bolt     Join to above
Yellow/black     Ditto     Ditto
White*     BROWN / white     Kick panel or fuse junction box LOCK (-) Alt. Blue/red
WHITE/ black*     GREEN / WHITE     Ditto UNLOCK (-) Alternative Blue.
Brown     GREEN / WHITE     Steering column loom
Brown     GREEN/ YELLOW     Ditto
RED / Black Don’t use unless you find the motor wire**

TEST EVERYTHING!!!!
The factory diagrams are over complicated and the install diagram is a joke!
There appears to be no hood (bonnet) pin input either.

In all honestly I could have tested for and done the wiring in less time than it took me to produce this.

*The install diagram doesn’t specify which one is lock and which is unlock!

** Won’t work the RED / yellow car wire, that’s NEG.
If an electric (solenoid) trunk (boot) release is factory fitted, take the red and black to the motor (+) wire.

Very poor product, no provision for NEG trunk release or NEG indicators which would be much easier on your car, light green at the Hazard switch.

Give Modric back to us.

Incredible!!!! You told me the color of the wire in my car, and the location.

My doubts:

- Is necessary the wire brown ON If I do not use remote start?

- In 12P the White* and WHITE/ black* I received a diagram where appear what is for lock and what is for unlock.

- The brown, where is the Steering column loom ? Below the wheel?

- The RED / black if you have not found... Neither do I.

- Why say: There appears to be no hood (bonnet) pin input either? Told you the siren?

- In 8P, Is the trigger of side door NEG? I have to check with a multimeter what of both wire in the coretesy is NEG, is true?

- In 8P, I will NOT connect the Engine cut off, crystal up (my car has not package confort), the brake, hand brake, start sensing. Is it correct?

- What is the best way to connect the wire? Cut and insulating tape or this --> https://imageshack.us/f/471/robacorrientesug1.jpg/

Thanks in advance,

regards,

You won't control it properly without the brown connected.
The diagram toy sent doesn't say which is which. If you test those wires with the alarm's remote, that will tell you which is which.
If you remove the steering wheel cowling (cover) what you see is the steering column loom, probably also at the fuse/relay box.
Bonnet pin tells you if the bonnet is open. What does that have to do with the siren?
All the triggers on this car are NEG.
Don't get involved with the engine cut off, not needed. All European cars since 1/1/97 have factory transponder immobilisers.
Strip, solder after testing and verification then good quality insulating tape over the join.
NEVER, ever use those connectors they will corrode or shake loose within 3 months.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I wish you all the best of luck.
Your knowledge/experience is poor.
The product is awful.
Not a good combination.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

You won't control it properly without the brown connected.
The diagram toy sent doesn't say which is which. If you test those wires with the alarm's remote, that will tell you which is which.
If you remove the steering wheel cowling (cover) what you see is the steering column loom, probably also at the fuse/relay box.
Bonnet pin tells you if the bonnet is open. What does that have to do with the siren?
All the triggers on this car are NEG.
Don't get involved with the engine cut off, not needed. All European cars since 1/1/97 have factory transponder immobilisers.
Strip, solder after testing and verification then good quality insulating tape over the join.
NEVER, ever use those connectors they will corrode or shake loose within 3 months.

ok, thanks!!! I think, I have all clear.

The problem could be my language English... I am not consider with poor knowledge/experience.

If I have any problem, I will tell to you.

Thanks!!!

Regards,

Your English is better than many North Americans on this site.
I don't say anything in case English is not their first language.
Try to cut and paste to either word or Chrome files and see if there is a translation program.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

In 8P, what is the utility of the brake, hand brake, start sensing. I will not connect, is it ok?

Thanks in advance,

Regards,

Not needed, for remote start only.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi howie II,

I need more help... Yesterday, I started with the installation and the Fuse junction box left of steering column is very very difficult access to the box; and
- positive and negative, I will get directly from battery.
- STR I will not connect, seems not necessary if I do not want the remote start; I spoke with some people and they did not connected.
- where can I get the intermittent? In the fuse junction is very difficult, and only work with the contact... can I get from the warnings or directly from the intermittent? How can connect it?
- the shock sensor and microwave should be horizontal or they can be vertical?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

You can pick up those wires in the steering column loom as well.
White or WHITE/ red at fuse box or steering column loom for (+).
A nearby bolt for (-).
Intermittent??? What do you mean?
Shock sensor doesn't matter, microwave horizontal in roof lining.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

You can pick up those wires in the steering column loom as well.
White or WHITE/ red at fuse box or steering column loom for (+).
A nearby bolt for (-).
Intermittent??? What do you mean?
Shock sensor doesn't matter, microwave horizontal in roof lining.

Sorry, but I don not understand...
I am not sure, what is steering column loom and Fuse junction box left of steering column? Where is each of them? I check under the wheel... what is the other site?

The positive and negative I have clear, directly from the battery.

The intermittent = flash light.

microwave horizontal posted_image

with the orange direction to the floor or to the roof?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

Orange towards car.
Flashers, GREEN / WHITE and GREEN/ YELLOW, remove steering column cowl to obtain access, it's the loom going down the steering column.
Remove under dash panel, that will expose fuse/relay box to the left above driver's left foot.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry... my english; orange towards car but; towards down or up?

I have two boxes:
posted_image

This is the upper:
posted_image

and it is very difficult work with them... And the wire of the flash light is there; but, only work with the contact; can I get it from the warnings or directly to the flash light in the lamp?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

Orange down towards car.
I can see your ground (-) point, see the WHITE/ black wires going to a bolt on left lower part of first photo?
Somewhere in there should also be a thick white on a single plug or with another, that's your (+).
The black encased floor loom should have the wires for the flashers.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Orange down towards car.
I can see your ground (-) point, see the WHITE/ black wires going to a bolt on left lower part of first photo?
Somewhere in there should also be a thick white on a single plug or with another, that's your (+).
The black encased floor loom should have the wires for the flashers.

ok, microwave clear. positive and negative clear.

The flash light, I disconnect all from the down box, and always work... but, if I disconnect the plug that I mark in the second photo; it does not work. But as I said; only work with contact... so, If the alarm start without contact the flash light will not turn no. Do you understand me? That´w why, I think I should connect to another site; for example warnings that these works without contact. What do you think?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

Because those wires are fed POS via the ignition (contact?) if you feed each with a POS (+) voltage, each side in turn will light up if that's the case you have the correct wires, basically you have NO IDEA how to test!!

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Because those wires are fed POS via the ignition (contact?) if you feed each with a POS (+) voltage, each side in turn will light up if that's the case you have the correct wires, basically you have NO IDEA how to test!!

Yes, I am not a pro but I try it... I connect all except the flash light, with more help I hope connect it.

Check the first photo, it is very difficult work with the upper box, I can not put my hands in... Can I connect to the warnings or directly to the lamp ??

Thanks in Advanced,
Regards,

Drop that panel, two screws or bolts, you can see one in the top picture left.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Drop that panel, two screws or bolts, you can see one in the top picture left.

I spent 10 days in bed with lot of fever and I can not continue with the alarm.

One thing, I thought I have a problem with the English; when you said:
"the steering wheel cowling (cover) what you see is the steering column"

Are there any place of the photos I taken... or are you telling the cover of the wheel, where there are the sticks of the flasher, windshield wiper, lights and more... Because, I think this is the best place and I didn´t find there...

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

What extra can I add?
I wish you better but let's be realistic, this is completey beyond your abilities.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

What extra can I add?
I wish you better but let's be realistic, this is completey beyond your abilities.

The extra that you can add is:
when you said:
"the steering wheel cowling (cover) what you see is the steering column"
are you telling the cover of the wheel, where there are the sticks of the flasher, windshield wiper, lights and more...?

when you see the photos of the installation, you will see that there is no problem with my skills... hehe

Honestly, once you've installed the siren, sensors and antenna this is a 1 hour job.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Honestly, once you've installed the siren, sensors and antenna this is a 1 hour job.

Hi,

I install the alarm!!!! Work fine, but the shock sensor and microware is not very sensitive I will increase and I will test it again.

But, the flash light not light on... I think this is not the correct place for connect it, because in this wire only turn on when the ACC is on... I think the best place is in the warnings, what do you say howie?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

Have you checked to see if the Spy unit is giving you 12V+ on it's flasher outputs?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Have you checked to see if the Spy unit is giving you 12V+ on it's flasher outputs?

Yes, I checked with a tester, I bought for the installation.

howie ll wrote:

Have you checked to see if the Spy unit is giving you 12V+ on it's flasher outputs?

Yes, I checked with a tester, I bought for the installation.

I think the problem is that this wire does not turn on the flasher until I have the ACC connected...

This is hopeless I've tried to explain this to you before, if you apply 12V+ to either wire does it turn on the flasher each side?
If so you have the correct wire.
If the Spy unit delivers 2 x 12V+, then join one to the other, it doesn't matter that the two wires only work via ignition.
Please try to understand, it's so basic.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

This is hopeless I've tried to explain this to you before, if you apply 12V+ to either wire does it turn on the flasher each side?
If so you have the correct wire.
If the Spy unit delivers 2 x 12V+, then join one to the other, it doesn't matter that the two wires only work via ignition.
Please try to understand, it's so basic.

Hi howie... I tried to explain in post before...

Only turn on the flasher if I apply 12V AND I have the ACC; if only apply 12V the flasher NOT turn on.

Therefore, I told If the best place will be the warning (that turn on the 4 flasher without the ACC)

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

Does the vehicle wire (with the SPY unit output removed from the wire) show 12 volts on your meter with the parking lights turned on but the car off?

What year, make, model is the car?

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

Does the vehicle wire (with the SPY unit output removed from the wire) show 12 volts on your meter with the parking lights turned on but the car off?

What year, make, model is the car?

With the car off:
- The wire does not show 12 volts and If I apply 12 volt does not turn on the lights.

With the car in ACC:
- The wire show 12 volts and If I apply 12 volts turn on the lights.

Toyota Avensis 2005

Regards,

Kenny you can go to a NEG at the Haz flasher but that POS alarm doesn't have the provision for POS/NEG lights output, only POS.
I cannot get this person to understand that if he has CORRECTLY identified the left and right flashers (indicators) remember outside the US, everyone uses indicators. AND the POS Spy gives 12V+ on each of it's two light output wires, it doesn't matter a fig if they only work via ignition, that's how they're supposed to work, crikey, kill yourself with blind ignorance.
I'm off to watch the telly!
The Avensis is UK built grandchild of the Carina. But still a Toyota, i.e. dead easy, about a 1 hour job to install an alarm.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yea, what howie is saying is that since your alarm does not have provisions for a negative parking light output you have 2 options.
1) As howie suggests, find the parking light (indicator) lights after the factory relay (may have to go direct to the bulbs). If you go with this method you will have to diode isolate the wires so they do not back feed into each other.

2) Probably the easier method would be to get an external relay to change the + output to a - so that you can connect to either the - parking light wire or the hazards (4 ways). The relay would be wired like so:
87 - Chassis ground
30 - (-) parking light wire or (-) hazard wire
86 - + parking light output of alarm / remote start
85 - Chassis ground

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

30 to light green at the Haz switch. If not light green it be the wire that activates the hazards when grounded (connect to MASSA).

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

offroadzj wrote:

Yea, what howie is saying is that since your alarm does not have provisions for a negative parking light output you have 2 options.
1) As howie suggests, find the parking light (indicator) lights after the factory relay (may have to go direct to the bulbs). If you go with this method you will have to diode isolate the wires so they do not back feed into each other.

2) Probably the easier method would be to get an external relay to change the + output to a - so that you can connect to either the - parking light wire or the hazards (4 ways). The relay would be wired like so:
87 - Chassis ground
30 - (-) parking light wire or (-) hazard wire
86 - + parking light output of alarm / remote start
85 - Chassis ground

Thanks,

I do not understand howie, he is angry.

I identified the wire of the flash correctly, I check with the tester; and he told me the colour of the wire... the problem is not turn on when the alarm start; why? Could be that when I press the lever of the flash does NOT TURN ON until I start the ingition?

I think with the posibility of connect the flashers to the hazards; my idea is a rele:
- positive --> one of the two wire that go out from spy
- negative --> ground
- NO and common --> two of the wire that are connected to the hazard (both that there are not the light of the hazard), it does not matter which of them in which.

is these correct?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

howie ll wrote:

30 to light green at the Haz switch. If not light green it be the wire that activates the hazards when grounded (connect to MASSA).

I do not know the number of the rele, I know:

- POS
- NEG
- N.O.
- COMMON

Pos - Light flash output from remote start
Neg - chassis ground
NO - light green wire at hazard switch
Common - Chassis ground.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

Pos - Light flash output from remote start
Neg - chassis ground
NO - light green wire at hazard switch
Common - Chassis ground.

Neg and common to negative both? ok, more easy...

The NO, I do not understand, what is the light green wire ? Are you tell me the light green or the wire green? To the hazard come 4 wire, two (pos and neg) for the light of the button, the other two for the flasher.

Can you tell me the relation of pos, neg, no and common with the number of the rele? I want a bit of knowledge.

Sorry with my english...

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

By light green I mean the light green wire (color) at the hazard switch. Test to make sure it activates the parking lights, but it should.
86 - POS
85 - NEG
87 - N/O (normally open)
30 - Common
87a - N/C (normally closed)

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Sorry, I checked again, and when I activate the flasher the signal is negative (not positive)...

So... how can I connected it? At this moment, I have to the levers of the steering column, but it does not work... If I connect with the rele without change to the hazard will work?:
87 - Chassis ground
30 - (-) parking light wire (which of them? now I have both connected because from the alarm go out two brown wires)
86 - + parking light output of alarm
85 - Chassis ground

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

30 is going to your (-) hazard activation wire which you said you found. The 86 will go to the parking light output (+) from the SPY unit. It doesn't matter which one you use.

-------------
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote:

30 is going to your (-) hazard activation wire which you said you found. The 86 will go to the parking light output (+) from the SPY unit. It doesn't matter which one you use.

But I said If I can use the actual connection, that is to say, can I obtain from the levers of the steering column for the number 30 or have I to use the hazard?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

offroadzj wrote:

30 is going to your (-) hazard activation wire which you said you found. The 86 will go to the parking light output (+) from the SPY unit. It doesn't matter which one you use.

If I connect these the hazard is always on...

How can change ??

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

Howie is angry because he thinks you are totally incompetent and shouldn't be doing this.
you found the indicator wires,one goes to 12V+ and the ground, on/off when you turn the stalk.
Then turn the stalk the other way and the other wire goes 12V+ off, on again.
Once you verify this it doesn't matter that they only work on the ignition, the alarm will supply the 12 volts.
So then you test the alarm to see if it produces the 12 volts at those two wires when you arm and disarm.
Once verified, connect, job done.
The problems are that you don't know what the hell you're doing, I'm frustrated because either you aren't listening or you don't understand.
In either case you shouldn't be doing this, after all once siren and sensors are in this alarm should take an hour.
That is if it even works which I doubt.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Howie is angry because he thinks you are totally incompetent and shouldn't be doing this.
you found the indicator wires,one goes to 12V+ and the ground, on/off when you turn the stalk.
Then turn the stalk the other way and the other wire goes 12V+ off, on again.
Once you verify this it doesn't matter that they only work on the ignition, the alarm will supply the 12 volts.
So then you test the alarm to see if it produces the 12 volts at those two wires when you arm and disarm.
Once verified, connect, job done.
The problems are that you don't know what the hell you're doing, I'm frustrated because either you aren't listening or you don't understand.
In either case you shouldn't be doing this, after all once siren and sensors are in this alarm should take an hour.
That is if it even works which I doubt.

Hi howie ll; I have a lot of patience, but... it seems that you do not.

I wrote several times; the flasher is on by negative... and the alarm produce positive; so I can not connect directly with the flashers, I need a rele for invert the signal.

I change the connections, I go directly to the hazard, that I have a wire when I apply negative the hazard is on; so I connect with a rele with this connection, but it does not work, because the hazard is always on:
86 - POS - alarm
85 - NEG - ground
87 - N/O (normally open) - ground
30 - Common - hazard (that active with negative)

Is it wrong the connection?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

Have you even checked to see that the alarm produces 12V+ from those two wires when you arm and disarm it.?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

also have you even TRIED to connect those two wires (if they work) to the indicator wires which I asked you to do WEEKS AGO.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Have you even checked to see that the alarm produces 12V+ from those two wires when you arm and disarm it.?

Yes, and in the diagram appear that you have to connect to the positive wire.

Will do they produce 12V+?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

also have you even TRIED to connect those two wires (if they work) to the indicator wires which I asked you to do WEEKS AGO.

Yes, but they active with negative and it does not work because the alarm send positive.

howie ll wrote:

Will do they produce 12V+?

The alarm produce positive and the wizard and the flasher of the levers are active with negative.

At this moment I have connected with the hazard:

86 - POS - alarm
85 - NEG - ground
87 - N/O (normally open) - ground
30 - Common - hazard (that active with negative)

I think the 30 and 87 are changed, could be?

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

Just simply connect 12V+ to each of the original indicator wires I told you about ages ago and see if they light up.
If so collect the alarm light wires to each, job done.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Just simply connect 12V+ to each of the original indicator wires I told you about ages ago and see if they light up.
If so collect the alarm light wires to each, job done.

I told you too. I connected the wire of the alarm directly to the greens wire of the flasher in the lever and it does not work.

I think the best way is connect to the hazard with rele but, I have to change the signal... How could do it ??

Thanks in advance,
Regards,

NO NO NO
Not the green at the flasher the other 2 wires, GREEN / WHITE and GREEN/ YELLOW? I told you about them right at the start and you wonder why I'm loosing patience?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

February 14th.
Brown GREEN / WHITE Steering column loom
Brown GREEN/ YELLOW Ditto
If not there, at the fuse/relay box on the left.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

NO NO NO
Not the green at the flasher the other 2 wires, GREEN / WHITE and GREEN/ YELLOW? I told you about them right at the start and you wonder why I'm loosing patience?

Yes, I connected to the GREEN / WHITE and GREEN/ YELLOW and it does not work!!!

I repeat, should be the correct place connect to the hazard with a rele for invert the signal???

And the relay idea might have worked with a 1N4004 diode across 85 and 86 with it's band to 86.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

February 14th.
Brown GREEN / WHITE Steering column loom
Brown GREEN/ YELLOW Ditto
If not there, at the fuse/relay box on the left.

Yes, I connected there and it does not work

Did you expect anything to work properly with that rubbish alarm?

February 12th.
"the product is IMO a POS."
Did you find those two wires?
If you apply 12V+ to each in turn do the indicators come on each side?
If so you're doing it right and the alarm is at fault.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

And the relay idea might have worked with a 1N4004 diode across 85 and 86 with it's band to 86.

Have you checked the connection in the page before ??

Could be change the connection 30 and 87???

86 - POS - alarm
85 - NEG - ground
87 - N/O (normally open) - ground
30 - Common - hazard (that active with negative)
Is correct plus the diode I mentioned above.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

86 - POS - alarm
85 - NEG - ground
87 - N/O (normally open) - ground
30 - Common - hazard (that active with negative)
Is correct plus the diode I mentioned above.

With this connection is always on...

I check in other page, and say this
https://www.instalandofacil.com/images/polaridad-_2.GIF

If that's what you did, the diode is there as I mentioned, then it's an alarm fault.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

If that's what you did, the diode is there as I mentioned, then it's an alarm fault.

What is the correct?

86 - POS - alarm
85 - NEG - ground
87 - N/O (normally open) - ground
30 - Common - hazard (that active with negative)

86 - POS - alarm
85 - NEG - ground
87 - N/O (normally open) - hazard (that active with negative)
30 - Common - ground

The diagram with the diode is correct other wise it won't work.
The original wiring I told you about is also correct.
Please stop these stupid questions, enough is enough.
Why do I have to repeat everything, listen to your friends, they told you the locks were positive.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You've done none of the testing I told you to so what's the point.
Test light outputs from alarm?
Test original wires by attaching 12V+ to them?
I'm now blocking you.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

You've done none of the testing I told you to so what's the point.
Test light outputs from alarm?
Test original wires by attaching 12V+ to them?
I'm now blocking you.

Probably, you are the best installer, but... you are the worst teacher.

Forgot the past, read the present... I think is simple:
What is the correct?

86 - POS - alarm
85 - NEG - ground
87 - N/O (normally open) - ground
30 - Common - hazard (that active with negative)

86 - POS - alarm
85 - NEG - ground
87 - N/O (normally open) - hazard (that active with negative)
30 - Common - ground

The answer should be 1 or 2... and If you are friendly you can explain a bit more; but you are talking with things of the past.

If you do not want help, please, you do not insult me.

Regards,