Let me start with a quick intro. I have never tried anything like this before, much more of a mechanical type than electronic. I can do the physical work but can't figure out the correct connections needed.
I have a 2011 Kia Sportage with PTS. I am attempting to install a Python 1401 remote start with a Fortin Evo-Can. I THINK I've figured out about 83% of the conections, but if I don't know one they rest aren't going to help me!
I have the wire reference guide for the 1401, the wiring confuguration manual for the Fortin, and the wire info printout for the Sportage. So I think I have all the information but I'm not sure how to read it. I saw an install guide on the non PTS in the forums but didn't think it would be enough to help me.
Is there someplace I'm missing that basically labels connections down the list?
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Just barely smart enough to make it broken.
To answer your question, No. There is no definitive "cook-book" guide that will list each wire connection from any
specific brand / model remote start system to any specific brand / model bypass module to any specific year / make
/ model vehicle. Too many choice and permutations to deal with. That's why the professional 12 volt installer gets
paid the big bucks. 
All you will find is the installation guide for your Python system : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1183
or https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1184
The install guide for your bypass module for your specific vehicle : https://ifar.ca/download/3915/preview.html
Actually the EVO-ALL is a slightly better choice if you can switch.
And some basic wiring guide lists for your vehicle : https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Kia
In the case of a 2011 KIA Sportage with PTS using an EVO-CAN bypass module the Fortin install guide pretty much lists
most everything for you. I would suggest going W2W, making all shown connections "hard-wired". There will be many
un-used wires and others not listed in the EVO-CAN diagram are necessary and / or optional ( ie. the Python's Horn, Brake,
Tach, NSS and optional AUX wires )
Putting it all together is the installers responsibility. There are many very knowledgeable installers on this forum that can
assist you in your effort. The best way is to make up a chart with all the Pythons connectors / wires listed and where you
believe they should be connected. Same for the EVO-CAN. Post that and ask for corrections, input and advice.
There is a big learning curve and Directed does not help with all of their unique terminology.
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Soldering is fun!
That extended installation guide looks like it will get me further than what I had. I'll read through it before I ask any more questions.
I bought the Fortin Bypass on Ebay expecting it to be the Evo-All. (They described it as the Evo-All, but the picture was of the Evo-Can) I already downloaded the install instruction for that from the Fortin website so I think I'm all set there.
I called 5 different installers in Flint, MIchigan and NONE of them would install a stater on a PTS Kia. None of them had ever even heard of Fortin. I actually started this whole process because I have a 2011 Kia Optima PTS that I saw set up with a relay on the lock switch to start using the factory key fob (press the lock button 2x's to start) and I want to do the same to mine. But I've spent way too much money on my car to get that past the Financial Review Board (my wife) without doing it to her Sportage first.
Thank you for all the information links, Kreg357. Hopefully it get's me headed down the correcy road!
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Just barely smart enough to make it broken.
Amazing! Fortin is one of the top two brands in bypass modules and a very effective solution for the PTS KIA's. Keep us posted.
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Soldering is fun!
When you bought the EVO, did they flash it with the correct firmware for you? Without the firmware, the bypass is essentially useless.
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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
I knew there were firmware versions but didn't think that it was on a car by car basis anymore? (he said noobily)
I just saw that the Evo-Can page said my car required firmware version "2.12 and more" and the unit was labeled "4.0" so I thought I was all set there. Am I going to need a Flash Link to make it work?
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Just barely smart enough to make it broken.
No you are set with the version you have. No further programming is required until you get it intsalled.
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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
No. All Fortin bypass modules come from the factory flashed with the latest firmware. If yours is a recent one the H/W and S/W versions should be adequate for your install. If you wanted to connect it to a Directed remote start unit via D2D, you could re-flash it with the DBI D2D firmware, but if you go W2W, everything is OK.
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Soldering is fun!
I'm sorry, it's been a long day. I forgot that the Evo modules only needed the updated firmware version, not vehicle specific firmware. My apologies for the mis-information.
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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
PTS KIAS are easy Why will no one help you ? Probably because you have your own unit and they dont want to deal with it if it doesnt work.
Just call them and act like a new customer and see if they will do it?
lucasoil4u wrote:
PTS KIAS are easy Why will no one help you ? Probably because you have your own unit and they dont want to deal with it if it doesnt work.
Just call them and act like a new customer and see if they will do it?
I called around looking to purchase the starter and istallation from them. No one was interested. There was one place that acted like they might want to help. They never heard of Fortin and didn't do PTS cars. I asked if they would just put it in with the instructions on the website and they said they would "charge me an hourly rate to experiment with the install". I told them they could use my car as a "guinea pig" to see how easy (or hard) it was but I wasn't paying extra. I figure they could have seen how easy it was and made a lot of money doing PTS remotes, but oh well.
After all of that I finally just bought the units and started my installation research. I'd pay someone to install what I have today if there was anyone around willing>
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Just barely smart enough to make it broken.
Alright, so I used all the links Kreg357 provided above. As you will see I'm hung up on a couple of connections on the starter, but I'm really confused on the way the bypass is making it's connections to to remote starter(see bypass instructions). Just not sure were they are attched.
So this is as far as I can get:
Python 1401 remote start Vehicle Wires
Main Harness (H1) 12 pin
H1/1 (-)200mA Trunk release output-> (-)Trunk/Hatch Release (yellow/black)
H1/2 (+)12VC Constant input-> 12volts (red)
H1/3 (-)200mA hHorn honk output-> Not using
H1/4 Light Flash Insolation Wire-> ??
H1/5 (-)CHassis ground-> Body
H1/6 (+) Door trigger input-> Not used
H1/7 Factory horn input-> Not using
H1/8 (-) Door Trigger-> (-)Door Trigger (GREEN/ orange)
H1/9 (-) 200mA Dome light output-> Not using
H1/10 (-) Remote Start/Turbo timer activation output-> ??
H1/11 Parking light output-> Parking lights (green (L), yellow (R))
H1/12 (-)500mA ground when armed output-> Body (? not sure on this one)
Door Lock 3 pin
1 (-)500mA unlock output-> Power unlock (gray/black)
2 Not used
3 (-) 500mA Lock output-> Power lock (blue/black)
Remote Start (H3) 8 pin
H3/1 Ignition 1 input/output-> Ignition (blue)
H3/2 12VDC Constant input for ign. 2 anf flex relay-> 12volt (red)
H3/3 Accessory output-> Accessory (blue)
H4/3 Starter output-> Starter (red)
H3/5 12VDC constant input for ing 1 relay-> 12volt (red)
H3/6 Ignition 2/flex relay output-> Second Starter (WHITE/ black(SW2)) (PTS) questioning this one
H3/7 flex relay input 87a key side(if req.) of flex relay-> ??
H3/8 12VDC Constant input for acc and starter relays-> 12volts (red)
H2 Harness 18 pin (I get really lost here)
H2/1 (-) 200mA Factory alarm disarm output-> Factory alarm disarm (red (key unlock), gray (lock/unlock detection))
H2/2 (-) 200mA Aux 4 output-> Not used
H2/3 (-) 200mA Factory alarm arm output-> Factory alarm arm (brown (key lock), gray(lock/unlock detection))
H2/4 (-) 200mA Aux 2 output-> Not used
H2/5 (-) 200mA Aux 3 output-> Not used
H2/6 (-) 200mA Aux 1 output-> Not used
H2/7 (-) Diesel wait to start input-> Not used
H2/8 Empty
H2/9 Tachometer input-> Tachometer (white)
H2/10 (-) 200mA Status output-> ??
H2/11 (-) 200mA Flex relay control output-> ??
H2/12 (-) 200mA Accessory output-> ??
H2/13 (-) 200mA Starter output-> I think this goes to the pink wire shown in the Fortin install sheet here...https://ifar.ca/en/download/3915/preview.html
H2/14 (-)200mA Ignition 1 output-> ??
H2/15 (-) Hood input (nc or no)-> Hood pin (RED / black)
H2/16 (-) 200mA 2nd status/rear defogger output-> Not used
H2/17 Brake shutdown input-> Brake Wire (GREEN/ orange (2.4L))
H2/18 (-) Neutral saftey input-> Body
Evo-Can Bypass
3 Pin connection
1 Not used
2 (gray/black)Can low-> Can low (red)
3 (gray)Can high-> Can high (blue)
10 Pin connection
1 Yellow Ignition (blue)
2 Not used
3 (green) Door status (?) connected to remote start
4 (white) Trunk Status (?) connected to remote start
5 not used
6 (BROWN / white) Hand brake status (?) connected to remote start
7 (pink/black) Hood status (?) connected to remote start
8 not used
9 (light blue/black) Data wire (ORANGE / white) in vehicles Keyless Module
10 not used
6 pin connection
1 not used
2 not used
3 (PURPLE / white) Unlock/disarm (?) connected to remote start
4 (purple) Lock/arm (?) connected to remote start
5 (yellow/black) Trunk release (?) connected to remote start
6 (dark blue) ground when running (?) connected to remote start
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Just barely smart enough to make it broken.