camry 2007 ignition problem inspection

Hello all,

I installed the Audiovox remote starter APS901N in the 2007 Toyota Camry XLE a while ago and it works flawlessly. After a state inspection yesterday, car engine just died. It won't start with the key, and the windows and blower fans are not working when the key in final position turned as well. I tried using the remote start key fob and the engine starts up....blower works too and engine starts. As soon as I insert car key, step on brake, the blower fan stop working.

I looked at all fuse, seems to be all right. I just can't start the car with the key and brake is very hard, and well as steering wheel. Any idea what's wrong? Seems like no power with the key inserted. I'm thinking ignition is messed up but which area? Car is disabled, please help. Thanks.

Check you have 12V+ at the ignition constant and then 12V+ on the ignition wires on turning the key to ignition.
You have a blown ignition feed fuse, probably either adjacent to the battery or in an engine bay fuse box.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Most likely what howie said. Is your audiovox 12v supply connected somewhere other than the ignition harness? That would explain why the car only starts with the remote start.
Do check the fuses with a multi meter or a test light.

It is a high current input into the ignition though so I would assume that the unit is getting it's power from the ignition switch feed. So my money is on a bad ignition switch. Test all of the switch outputs like howie suggested. Obviously, if you did get your power from a different source then it is most likely the main feed fuse.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Thanks all. You guys were right, it was a blown 7.5A fuse. It looks alright initially but when I buzz them out with a DMM, the 7.5A was dead. I changed with new one and it worked.

I'm just curious why this happened. I tap into TACH wire on the OBDII connector for the remote starter. I wonder this cause the problem when the inspection guy plug it in his machine for car inspection.

I doubt the tach wire would cause a problem. What exactly was the 7.5A fuse for?

I just went outside and check. Its label AM1 on that 7.5A. Ignition 1?

Check the remote start wiring.  Make sure that the Camrys' two Ignition wires ( Pink & Yellow ) are isolated and not joined to the same remote start Ignition Output wire.  Same goes for  vehicle's two  Starter wires ( Blue & Gray ).  They must be kept isolated and powered from the remote starter on separate circuits. 

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Soldering is fun!

I just did a 2007 Avalon and there was a small gauge 7.5amp 12v constant but the main input was 40amp if I remember correctly. I would make sure they didn't tie into the wrong power wire for the remote start.

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Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205

Kreg and Kenny both hit the nail on the head. If you are grabbing power from the ignition switch make sure you are only grabbing power from the black 30 amp wire not the orange 7.5 amp wire. Also since there are 2 ignition wires and 2 starter wires, you cannot simply jump the 2 together simply because you don't have enough high current outputs on your remote starter. This will blow the AM1 fuse on Toyotas. I personally use ignition 1 & 2 and starter off the remote starter brain and then use a relay off the negative start wire to feed the power needed for the 2nd starter wire. On an Audiovox, the negative start wire is one of the black wires with a strip on that 4 pin harness. Its labeled as ground while cranking.

Will do. Thanks all.

Erm Flobee, I gave the answer with the first post!
Considering I've never done one and Camrys haven't been on sale in Western Europe since 03 don't you think I should be up there along with Kenny and Kreg?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Only half credit, Howard.  Plus two bonus points for spelling and grammar ( proper Queens English ).   

How are the Spurs doing?

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Soldering is fun!

OK, I pointed in the right direction, I could have said, what's a Camry?
It's 3:30 pm here right now, game starts in half an hour and it's a toughie, they (Liverpool) have hit form at the wrong time (for us).
I have worked on a US spec LS 430, what a PITA to get into the trunk area when you can't (be bothered) to get the rear seats out. The grommet is too near the centre of the rear seat. They should look at a Mercedes, 2 seconds.
BTW that makes 2 of us running away from Volvos now.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry Howie for not giving the credit were credit was due...LOL, you did mention check the fuses!

On this car, the AM1 fuse handles the 2nd start, 2nd ignition and acc off the switch. Like Flo said, if when installed they simply jumped the 1st starter to the 2nd to make it work you will blow that fuse. We had an installer that worked for me for a brief period and he did 3 Camrys, all without using a separate relay for the 2nd starter. Every one of them came back with that fuse blown, and not right away but after a period of weeks or even months in the case of the 3rd one he did. He did diode isolate them, but apparently that's not enough. They must be on thier own relay...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks Mike. Will open it up again this weekend to check out the wiring.