ultrastart 72 series program issue

I just bought a car he has the ultrastart 72 series remote start installed. it worked but he said he had disconnected the battery a while back and never programmed it again. I got 2 remotes with it.

Instructions say to program it, cycle key on/off   on/off on , then leave it on and press and hold velet switch. I press and hold and no horn,
and the LED on the velet switch dont light up, but if i leave the car off, and press the unlock button a few times fast the led lights up, but then turn the key back on and it goes off.
No horn, no parking lights light up..

Do ya cycle the key fast slow, after ya cycle the key, does the LED supposed to light up or no.

Thanks Guys

Usually a simple power loss will not lose any of the programming, even the FOB's should still be paired-up.   That's the way they come in the box from the factory and
rarely have I ever had to re-pair the remotes.

Kinda wonder if it ever worked. You must be careful when doing a remote pairing procedure. There is not too much difference between that, the Valet Mode entry & exit
and a full factory reset. The U1272 must see the vehicles Ignition wire to go into any programming / reset modes. You can put a DMM on the U1272's thick Blue wire
to check if there is +12V on it with the ignition ON.

Think I would find the main module and pull the two fuses on the thick Red wires. Wait a minute or to and plug them back in. If the horn is wired correctly, it should beep.
If it doesn't, check to see if the WHITE/ Blue horn wire is connected to the vehicles horn wire.

Next try a Lock or Unlock. The Parking Lights should flash. If they don't, listen for a relay click or check the White Parking Light output wire.

While it might help, doing a Factory reset could loose some important programming, depending on the vehicle and bypass used. That info ( vehicle make / model / year )
would be very helpful.

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Soldering is fun!

ok..

i know it did work, i seen it work when i looked at it a couple months ago. maybe the batterys in the FOBS are dead or going dead, the little blue leds on the FOBS do light up,
Where are the main boxes usually installed? I found the antenna, up top windshield,
From what ive read, most are installed under the dash, drivers side, i can pull some panels off and look around, maybe follow the antenna wire down too.

the car is a 1995 oldsmobile 88 royale.

thanks

Usually under the dash. Follow the antenna wire.

Your car should have the VATS immobilizer system ( resistor chip in key blade ) so there should be some type of bypass module also. Usually a smaller black box.

Your door locks are Type A, so there should be some relays or another little black box ( Directed 451M ) down there, too.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok so i found the box, im wondering about that little blue wire that isnt connected to anything....
is that the horn wire? lol i cant find a cut wire up in there nowhere, can i run a new wire to the horn from that?

i think from the install manual on the ultrastarters website , it says maybe thats the tach detection input

Ok so yea i just followed number 5, the blue/white next to the pink one, thats the horn, it goes up and over where the e-brake pedal is, and down but thats it, its not connected to anything. and its not tapped off..
can i run that horn wire to the horn then?

Looks like they de-pinned all the "un-used" wires.   

Yes, the Blue/White is the Tach Input. Think I would connect that to a good Tach source. Tach mode always
works best, especially in the colder climates. You can do that after you get everything else sorted.

The WHITE/ Blue goes to the cars horn wire. It should be easy to find. Here is the info from ReadyRemote :
Horn Trigger  Black (-) @ steering column

That little black box with the Green, Blue and Red wires from the U1272 converts the lock outputs to (+) for your
door locks.

Those two Green 30 Amp fuses are the power to the R/S. There shouldn't be any special programming options
set, so a U1272 Factory Reset is OK to do. If you do the reset, then connect the Tach wire and it will auto-tach
learn the first time you start the engine with the key. Here is the info on a Tach source :
Tachometer     PURPLE / White   AC     @ ignition coil

I don't see any VATS bypass, so maybe then did a permanent bypass on it already...

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Soldering is fun!

ok ive never even messed with one of these, so. to hook it up to a tach source lol.... umm...

i am not gonna rip apart the steering column,
i think i will just find someone who knows this stuff and pay them a little to fix this up for me. i would rather pay then to screw it up even worse myself.

i have 2 horns, theres a black wire on each and an orangish yellewish wire. a pos and neg. just hook to the black.

but the tach wire i dont have a clue.

No, don't connect to the horns in the engine compartment. That probably won't work with the weak U1272 (-) Horn output. You should go to the steering column and grab the actual horn button wire. It' low current (-).

Think if you check the Ultra Start WEB site they have a list of authorized dealers / installers and you can find one close by.


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Soldering is fun!

ok..won't touch it at all then. np. I know a guy at my work that used to install car alarms.. will ask him tomorrow and post back when I get some results.

wow there is actually 1 in this small town. 11 miles away i know right where they are,

just wondering if they charge by the hour or what. have to stop in and see

Ok so just got off the phone when them,
They told me those 2 wires the horn and tach are not mandatory in order for the remote start to work. its just quite and no chirm/honk.

im gonna buy some batterys tomorrow and try that, if that dont work then, i might have to take it in and have them look at it.

Keep us posted. Also put electrical tape over the top of the fuses on the heavy gauge harness

Ok so ultra start support got back to me,

said:
The horn may not have been connected.

Do the ignition key cycle- ON OFF ON OFF ON
Press and hold the program switch
Wait 5 seconds then press the lock button on each of the remotes to be programmed
Release the program switch

You may need to try this several times to get the remotes programmed.

I did this, then after i turn the key off, take the key out and hit the lock button, it dont work, but the valet switch LED comes on.
ive tried about 20 times, still no go,
dont know what it means when i hit the lock button and program led comes on.

Personally, I feel the Horn beep is a very valuable audible confirmation tool while programming the Ultra Start
units. When I program the bench prepped unit ( still on the bench ), I connect a small piezo tone generator to the
Horn output wire to help me thru the programming menus.


   

Verify that the Antenna Harness is securely plugged in at both ends.

As mentioned before, verify that the U1272's thick Blue Ignition 1 wire is seeing the +12V when you cycle the
ignition key to Run and back to OFF.

Try a Factory Reset. Sometimes I have been lost in the menus / valet mode / etc. and a Factory Reset gets things
back to normal.

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Soldering is fun!

how do ya do a factory reset then? also do they sell those at radio shack or do ya have to buy them online,

Thanks

It would be cheaper just to connect the U1272 to the vehicles horn wire, but here is an inexpensive piezo
buzzer from RadioShack : https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productid=2062397 The Black lead
goes to the U1272 Horn Output and the Red lead to +12V constant ( either thick U1272 Red wire ).

Factory Reset
1 - Cycle the Ignition Key On/Off On/Off On (Leaving the key ON)
2 - Press and RELEASE the Program Switch 1 time. (HORN will chip to confirm that program mode was entered)
3 - Press and HOLD the Program Switch for until the HORN Chirps 3 times.
4 - Turn ignition key OFF to exit.
Note- System reset does not delete the transmitter codes from memory or reset Menu 3 Setting 1 (selectable Output)
back to second ignition. This setting must be manually changed.

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Soldering is fun!

yea but i cant find the vehicle horn im not that expierenced in vehicle wiring. I know there are wires int eh steering column, the horn one is there somewhere... if the horn wire and tach wire were broke or cut , you would see the other ends dangling,,, just wonder why the tach wasnt hooked up..

No Tach connection on your car = lazy installer, IMHO. The Ultra Start's Tachless start works pretty good and it will try 3 times to start your car, but the Tach Method, when properly connected and programmed, always starts the car on the first try. Much better for cold climates, again IMHO.

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Soldering is fun!

lol yea lazy i bet. but the horn wire, i can tear apart the steering column, and look for a broken / cut wire, what color am I looking for,
i think its black , if im not mistaken, from some directions i read.

but if it was hooked up at all, the wire would be cut, broke, or tapped into somewhere along the wire.

Yes, if it was ever connected. Here is the info again :
The WHITE/ Blue goes to the cars horn wire. It should be easy to find. Here is the info from ReadyRemote :
Horn Trigger  Black (-) @ steering column

You really should have and use a Digital Multi Meter to locate / test / verify the horn wire ( or any wire for that matter ).

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Soldering is fun!

Yep i have a multimeter. I know how to use that atleast.
i dont really give a rats ass about the remote start, but really just care about the lock, unlock, and truck. thats all i really want...
remote start is just a bonus.

someone said a remote lock/unlock, is a more of a plug n play in the trunk.

thanks again for the info!

The trunk release in your Olds requires a (+) pulse. You will need a SPDT relay to get that part to work.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok update:

I got a reply from ultrastart tech support. It was in service mode, so they told me how to get it out of service mode. Easy, did that, now when i hit the lock button the door locked. BUT only once, i cant get it to unlock or start, if i keep hitting the lock button the doors will lock once or twice out of like 30 times hittin the button, but the LED on the FOB lights up, could the battery still be too dead to send a signal? even tho the LED lights up on the Fob?

will buy a battery tomorrow and try it out.

Ok update 2, key fob works, somewhat. I can lock and unlock,
but no start, when i hit the start you hear a clicking, and kinda like a grinding noise commiing from the remote box under the dash, all the dash lights come on when i try to start, but then go off after afew seconds.
also sometimes when i hit the lock button, they all lock, but then the dash lights and dinger come on for a few seconds like it wants to try to start.

but hey as long as i have the remote lock unlock im good.. would be nice a remote trunk on this but ohwell it was all preinstalled already so...