06 honda crv starter/alarm aux?

Hey guys so I've been getting ready to install a solace S3 with a fortin evoall bypass on my sisters 06 honda Crv Exl. My question is I'd like to install the aux wires for heated seats and rear defrost? Will I need to buy anything else? How can I set this up?

From the bulldogsecurity website, I need relays for the domelight and trunk release, will I need it aswell for the rear defrost and heated seats? Doesn't mention anything about relays for the remote starter wires. Fortin also doesn't mention anything for a relay setup for remote start.

Install seems to be straight forward, other than the diode isolate for the door triggers.

In the next week or so, I will have time to tackle this job!
I'll post back on my progress!

Usually, new remote starters have an ACCY output wire, with a 30AMP fuse you use for the blower.

The electric in-window defoggers are one touch on, and timed, then they go off on their own. You can use a pulsed output (convert to correct polarity and voltage) to turn the defoggers on with that one pulsed output from the alarm module. If you send a LOCK pulse to the doors, you can use that (correct for polarity and voltage). Same with the seat heaters, they are also one touch on, but they stay on till you turn them off, mostly, I think factory ones are timed too.

You need to wire a pulsed output to behind those two buttons at the harnesses, so when the remote start is used, a pulse goes out to turn those items on. The defoggers will go off on their own. If the seat heaters have a times setting, that won't be an issue either.

That's what I would do... Using a relay to convert polarity if needed, and a resistor for voltage. You can use a meter to measure the voltage when you press the button to turn those items off. It can be as low as 5V with body control modules. Still, that is what I would do...

Thanks poweslave for your help?
I have one wire that is" accessory output"(-) this is a programable wire that has a setting for defrost, also 4 aux wires that are progammable in milliseconds and one setting to set " latched". Does latched mean always on?

The "accessory output" wire can be set to defrost and three other wires that can be programmed plus the 4 aux wires.

How will I go abouts setting up the negative output wires to a relay and connect them to the switch harnesses of the heated seats and rear defrost? Theres a few diagrams in the install manual, but I'm a bit confused on which wires to tap into?

Is relays nessessary to setup rear defrost and Heated seats or can I just tap into the wire harnesses of the switches. It has a 325mA negative output? Couldn't I just connect this wire to the switch wires to imitate a button press?? And which wires do I tap into?

You may have to go to www.wirecolor.com to find the wiring info for the rear defrost. Info can be purchased for about 5 bucks. Access is good for 48 hours. All of the other wiring services do not list info about the rear defrost wire location or polarity (+) (-)??

Not at all familiar with the Solace S3 system.

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Thanks smokeman, I was thinking about probing it with a powerprobe II, I have the Autel brand, which similar in features. Its a really cool tool, to check the polarity or voltage from the wire which you are probing. I will also try to use a digital multimeter to check voltage. I haven't done anything yet. Still researching what I need for my install.

06 CRV Rear Defroster: Yellow/Black (-)latched   Heater Control Unit, green 30 pin plug, pin 20

Thanks yellow_cake!!

Can you guys tell me what "latched" or "pulse" means???

For my solace remote starter it has a programmable output wire for aux install, but in the install manual it just says "defrost"???? It doesn't say anything about latched or pulse settings???

Let me see if I got this right.

You need to use your DMM to meter the wires going to the defrost switch.
12 volts then when you push the switch it drops to 0 volts and stays there. This is (-) Negative latching defroster.

12 volts then when you press the switch it drops to 0 volts, then jumps back to 12 volts. This is called (-) Negative pulsed defroster.

0 volts, then when you press the switch it jumps to 12 volts. This is a (+) Positive latched defrost an requires a relay to switch the polarity and increase amps.

Sound right to anyone?

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A pulse would provide a split second burst of (-); a latch will provide a continuous (-).

If you were to send only a (-) pulse for a latch type defroster wire, it will turn on for that split second and turn right back off; therefore you need a continuous/latched output.

Smokeman shows you the right way to test the defroster wire to confirm it's a (-) latching type.

If your remote starter doesn't have an option to set the aux wire to latch or timed latch, you may use some relays to convert a (-) pulse to a continuous latch output.

Okey so I've looked at the install manual, and I was wrong it does say "latched" for aux 1, aux 2, aux 3 , and aux 4. I have to program it for option 2 to get it at the latched setting.

Yellowcake, can I also do the same thing to the heated seats???
Would this be a negative output wire or positive???

Thank you yellow cake!!! And smokeman!!!

Left Front Heated Seat: green --- (+)latched --- seat heater switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 10
Right Front Heated Seat: GREEN/ red --- (+)latched --- seat heater switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 5

You may have both seats turn on with the same aux -or- have an individual aux for either seat.
Either way you will need 2 relays to convert the polarity to (+).

Made a diagram for either case. Be sure to use diodes; either across pin 85 & 86 of the relays, or inline on the AUX wires.

Thank you very much yellow cake. Now I'm ready to install this next week.

I have another question that is unrelated, so I have a fm remote fob from another older car strter and alarm, can this be programmed to my newer FM remote car starter and alarm, I was reading my owners manual to program the remotes, and it accepts up to 4 remotes.

I was just wondering if anybody has tried this?

If it's of a different company than most likely it won't work.

If it's made by the same brand/company, it might work. If the FCC id matches to the one on the new remote, it will work for sure. Aside from that, you won't know till you try.

Also in the diagrams above, you can grab the +12v sources straight from the heater switches. Each switch will have a power wire that become +12v when the ignition or accessory is on.

Make sure that the wires you use are of at least the same thickness as the ones you will connect to in the seat switch harness. They won't be crazy thick, somewhere around 16 or 18 gauge most likely. I emphasized those ones in the diagrams as the thicker wires.

Okey thanks again yellow cake! I'll post back on my progress...

Hey guys so just yesterday I started to install the car starter/alarm.
I was supposed to install it last year but didnt get a chance to!

But now Im having difficulty locating some wires?
Heres what I need help with?

2006 honda CRV
Parking lights (+),...........wiring diagram expalins the location is at the back of the fuse box top middle plug. This wire seems really difficult to get to???

Another wiring diagram tells me I can also use 18 pin plug, pin 15 at the front of the fuse box? Would this wire work?

Door trigger wire (-)........Green, and light green (diode isolate both wires)
The location of the wires says that it is located at the factory alarm plug (green) to the left of the steering column, I cant seem to find this wire?. There is a green plug under neath the turn signals but the wires are of a different color?


Lock and Unlock wire (-) and trunk release (2 wires) do these wires need a relay?
These are type B wires?