viper 4704v

I have 2013 Honda Accord 2DR with Push-To-Start.

I was able to obtain the Vehicle Wiring from here:
https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?action=select&yr=26525&product=Remote%20Start&make=Honda&model=Accord%20(Smart%20Key)#


and I was able to obtain the Viper 4704v Installation guide from here, The12Volt. (Thank you)
I am panning on using the iDatalink bypass.

As I was looking through the installation guide, the "H3" harness confuses me, like the ignition flex relays wires. Where to do I solder those wires to?
Some wires are self-explanatory, like the accessory/starter output wire connects to the Accessory wire of the car. BUT the car has a second accessory/starter, which wires on the harness I connect it to?

Basically, the Harness (H3) wires 1,2, 5-8, are wires that are confusing me. Please help me if you can, I really appreciate it!

A sketch drawing will definitely help too! Thanks again!

Your 2013 Honda Accord 2 DR Auto Trans PTS vehicle install using an ADS AL CA w/DL HA6 firmware is
rather unique.   Basically, you will follow the Type 2 diagram found in the ADS Install Guide #12456 .

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT   @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 11, White wire  *
H3/2 RED / WHITE +12V  (30A) FLEX RELAY INPUT @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT     @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 23, Green wire
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT               @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 18, Blue wire     **
H3/5 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT      @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug 
H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT          @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 24, Gray wire    ***
H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a     Not Used
H3/8 RED / BLACK +12V  (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT          @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug

*    This wire also goes to the ADS AL CA Pink wire on the 7 Pin connector.
**  This wire also goes to the ADS AL CA BLACK/ White wire on 10 Pin connector.
*** Program Viper 4704V  Menu 3, Item 8 to Option 2 for Flex Relay = Accessory 2.

Please note that the ADS AL CA bypass module must be flashed with the DBI-AL(DL)-HA6 and the bypass
programming is a multi- step KLON process.  You must have the ADS USB flash cable and authorized
access to the iDatalink Flash WEB site.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

---

Your 2013 Honda Accord 2 DR Auto Trans PTS vehicle install using an ADS AL CA w/DL HA6 firmware is
rather unique.   Basically, you will follow the Type 2 diagram found in the ADS Install Guide #12456 .

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 11, White wire  *
H3/2 RED / WHITE +12V  (30A) FLEX RELAY INPUT  @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT   @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 23, Green wire
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT          @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 18, Blue wire     **
H3/5 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT   @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug 
H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT          @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 24, Gray wire    ***
H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a             Not Used
H3/8 RED / BLACK +12V  (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT          @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug

*    This wire also goes to the ADS AL CA Pink wire on the 7 Pin connector.
**  This wire also goes to the ADS AL CA BLACK/ White wire on 10 Pin connector.
*** Program Viper 4704V  Menu 3, Item 8 to Option 2 for Flex Relay = Accessory 2.

Please note that the ADS AL CA bypass module must be flashed with the DBI-AL(DL)-HA6 and the bypass
programming is a multi- step KLON process.  You must have the ADS USB flash cable and authorized
access to the iDatalink Flash WEB site.

---

Thank you!! This will help me out A LOT. Now, I did a lil more research and matching up with the RS module wiring to the car. Harness 2, first wire, flex relay output, where does that go? What a bout the status, ignition, starter output?

My goal is to have RS and option to activate the rear defroster.

Like most after-market systems, the Viper 4704 is designed to be generic with plenty of flexibility
and outputs to enable installation in a wide variety of vehicles.  There will be many wires that are
not needed for your specific application.

Still assuming a D2D connection to the ADS AL CA bypass module that has been flashed with the
DBI-AL(DL)-HA6 firmware.  Due to your specific application and the D2D connection, there will be
many unused wires.  Here are the 4 you mentioned.
H/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT is not used ( not necessary )
H/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT is not used ( handled by D2D )
H/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT is not used ( not necessary )
H/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT is not used ( not necessary )

Rather than go over the harnesses one by one, it might be easier for you to post all of your intended wire
connections.  This would allow the forum members to assist / review and make corrections / changes
and suggestions.

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

---

Like most after-market systems, the Viper 4704 is designed to be generic with plenty of flexibility
and outputs to enable installation in a wide variety of vehicles.  There will be many wires that are
not needed for your specific application.

Still assuming a D2D connection to the ADS AL CA bypass module that has been flashed with the
DBI-AL(DL)-HA6 firmware.  Due to your specific application and the D2D connection, there will be
many unused wires.  Here are the 4 you mentioned.
H/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT is not used ( not necessary )
H/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT is not used ( handled by D2D )
H/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT is not used ( not necessary )
H/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT is not used ( not necessary )

Rather than go over the harnesses one by one, it might be easier for you to post all of your intended wire
connections.  This would allow the forum members to assist / review and make corrections / changes
and suggestions.

---

I am planning to buy the D2D cable (idatalink to xpress kit connector) and use D2D.

1)Door lock, 3 pin connector on the RS, will not be used since the idatalink module will take car of that through D2D?

2)

H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT Not used
H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT Not used
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT I want to use this but not sure where to hardwire this to in the car
H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT* Not used, D2D takes care of this
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT Not used
H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT Not used
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT Not used
H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT Not used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT No idea
H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT Not used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT Not used
H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT Not used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT Hard wire this to idatalink
H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) Not used, D2D takes care of this
H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT Not used
H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) Not used
H2/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT Not used
H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT Not used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT Not used
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT B]Hardwire to idatalink
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT Not usedH2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT No idea

The idatalink requires e-Brake status to be hardwired to RS. Is this for Manual transmission only? so I do NOT need to use this?
it also requires Trunk, door, hood status wired to the RS but the RS does not have those

Think you might be mis-interpreting the iDatalink install guide.

For your vehicle the ADS AL CA bypass module will be flashed with the DBI-AL(DL)-HA6 firmware
and set to Installation Mode = Data Mode for D2D communication between it and the Viper 4704V.

The correct install guide is #12456 using the Type 2 diagram. In the diagram, all the Red dashed
line are handled by D2D communication. They do not have to be hard-wired. Only the Black solid
lines have to be hard-wired. You are correct that some of the data supplied by the bypass module
to the 4704V is not required and not used. Things like Door and Trunk Status would be used by an
Alarm system or required if your Accord had a manual transmission.   The E-Brake status might be
used by the 4704V as the Neutral Safety Input, but I am not sure.

H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT        Not used
H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT Not used Might need to connect to Chassis Ground if the D2D E-Brake signal isn't used.
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT      I don't have any info for this vehicle.
H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT        D2D takes care of this
H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT* Not used, D2D takes care of this
H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT        Not used
H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT Not used, D2D takes care of this
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT  Not used
H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT        Not used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUTNot used
H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT        Not used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT        Not used
H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT        Not used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) Not used, D2D takes care of this if vehicle has Factory Hood Pin
H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT Not used
H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) Not used
H2/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT Not used
H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT  Not used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT Not used
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT        D2D takes care of this
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT Not used

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Soldering is fun!

Gotcha! I was looking at the guide #12453. Diagram type #2. I found that guide through idatalink site using vehicle selection then choosing the ADS-AL module guide.

Now I am confused as to why there are two guides. The one you suggested is a lot less of a hassle, I like!!

So the door lock harness (two wires) there's no use for it since the ADS AL D2D takes care of it?

Then for these:

H1/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT     Not used?
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relayH1/    Not used?
H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY       Not used?
H1/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT    This to any ground bolt on the car?


Again, I really appreciate your time and patience helping me through this! I will definitely give back to this community (pic tutorial when I do this project).

When you were on the iDatalink WEB site looking up your car, if you narrowed it down to Honda, 2013,
Accord PTS Coupe 2 Drs Automatic, ADS AL CA only, it would show you just 2 firmware options. The
one that starts off with ADS is for use with remote start units that use the iDatalink communication D2D
protocol. The one that starts off with DBI is for use with remote start units that need the Directed DBI style
D2D communication protocol, like your Viper 4704V.

This is very important. As mentioned previously, your module must be flashed with this version of firmware
( DBI ). Also mentioned earlier, it uses the KLON process to bypass the Accords' transponder based ignition
immobilizer system. This KLON process requires that the module be removed from the vehicle during
programming, reconnected to the ADS USB cable / PC / iDatalink Flash WEB site for extended programming
and then reconnected to the vehicle to finish programming and then normal use. This is all detailed on
Page 17 of the install guide. The ADS USB programming cable is not supplied with the bypass module
and must be purchased separately ( ~ $60 ).

As for the Vipers Lock & Unlock output wires, this function is done via the D2D harness, so no hard-wire
connection is necessary. Also note that the Viper Lock output does both a Lock and an Arm function.

H1/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT     Optional **
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay    Not used
H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY       Set Jumper/Fuse to (-) and connect as per iDatalink install guide
H1/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT    Not used

** More info on the vehicles Horn wire :
Horn Trigger    Lt. Blue to Orange (-)    @ horn switch or dash fuse box, Green 36 pin Plug (E), Pin 34
A direct hard-wire connection is used.

More info on Parking Light connection ( the iDatalink guide is very brief on this wire ) :
Parking Lights(-)    Gray (-)      @ headlight switch, White 12 pin plug, Pin 8
A direct hard-wire connection is used ( after setting the Vipers' Parking Light Jumper/Fuse to (-) ).

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you Kreg357!

I am planning on wiring up everything, then do the first 3rd of the idatalink programming. I will go to my local pro installer and ask him to upload/install the DBI firmware. He is about 10 minutes away, will the temporary info that is stored in the idatalink still be there when I arrive at his shop? or the temporary info will be stored on there forever until firmware is installed?

I also found out where the rear defroster wire is at. Thanks to Damien22

"The rear defroster wire is Brown.
Below dash fuse box, white 28 pin plug, pin 14"

Thank you again Kreg357

The iDatalink bypass module is programmed with a multi-step process, as follows :
1.  Have Dealer flash the module with the DBI-AL(DL)-HA6 firmware.
2.  Properly make all the necessary connections shown in the install guide.  Don't plug in the harnesses yet.
3.  Do a Factory Reset on the module and then follow it with the Install Mode selection ( one blink ) and lock it in. 
4.  Plug in the rest of the bypass plugs.
5.  Start the actual vehicle programming. 
6.  At Step 4 disconnect the module and bring to Dealer.
7.  Dealer will perform Step 5. ( extended programming )
8.  Re-connect the module in the vehicle as per Step 6.
9.  Continue the programming process through Step 11.

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Soldering is fun!

Will I need this cable for D2D, idatalink to DEI Viper? Or does it comes with the bypass module?

https://www./itm/iDatalink-ADS-HRN-DBI-cable-only-for-D2D-Data-to-Data-DEI-Python-Viper-/181243850186?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a32f9adca&vxp=mtr

You will need the harness.  The one supplied in the ADS AL CA is for ADS style D2D.  If you get a FLCAN bypass module it will have the correct D2D harness.  ( The FLCAN is the same thing as an ADS AL CA and the FLC AL(DL)-HA6 firmware is the same as DBI AL(DL)-HA6.)

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Soldering is fun!

Do I need to wire anything else or buy a separate module if I want automatic window/sunroof roll up? or I just need to program the RS system to do that?

Right now, the factory smart fob, I can roll down windows and sunroof but can't roll back up using the fob.

Will this ADS-AL CA 64K w/ the DBI firmware work?

I saw other ADS-AL CA modules w/o the "64K"

You should get the newer ADS AL CA 64k module.

Not sure on the windows or sunroof.  Haven't done one and don't have any info on it.  Do the windows roll-up if you use the key to lock the drivers door and hold it to lock for 15 seconds? 

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Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

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You should get the newer ADS AL CA 64k module.

Not sure on the windows or sunroof.  Haven't done one and don't have any info on it.  Do the windows roll-up if you use the key to lock the drivers door and hold it to lock for 15 seconds? 

---

The only way to roll up the windows/sunroof is either inserting the key into the door turn the key to lock and hold on the second turn till the windows/sunroof closes or turn ignition to "On" to close it manually. It can not be closed with the key fob, unfortunately.

As promised:

https://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=145449

Pretty much tidy up your posts Kreg357. Added a couple pics and other important stuff I found out during the installation.

The only downside is that the car turns off when I open the door. :/

Thanks again!

Thanks for the update and link.    Very nice write-up on the install. 

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Soldering is fun!