viper 211hv keyless entry, 2004 rav4

newbie here.

bought a 2004 rav4 l edition and suprisingly it doesnt hv keyless entry nor transponder keys.....
so iresearched on the internet and viper seems to be the fav model...so i bought the viper 211 HV model, and i need help in installing it.....has anyone specifically done a similar installation on the rav4?.
thanks

Try this...

H1/1 RED (+) 12V CONSTANT POWER INPUT         White @ ignition switch harness      
H1/2 BLUE (-) 200 mA SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT not used  
H1/3 BLACK/ WHITE-1 INPUT OF DOMELIGHT SUPER RELAY #87 not used / needed
H1/4 BLACK/ WHITE OUTPUT OF DOMELIGHT SUPER RELAY #30          not used / needed
H1/5 GREEN/ BLACK LOCK #30 COMMON OUTPUT            Blue/Orange @ DKP, 14 pin plug in pin 6
H1/6 WHITE/ BLACK LOCK #87a NORMALLY CLOSED       not used     
H1/7 VIOLET/BLACK LOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)           Chassis Ground
H1/8 BLUE/BLACK UNLOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT)      Blue / YELLOW (double pulse)  -  DKP, 14 pin plug in pin 13 
H1/9 VIOLET UNLOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)     Chassis Ground
H1/10 WHITE (+/-) PARKING LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT    ***set to (+)         Green or GREEN/ Red (+)   @ headlight switch   
H1/11 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT           Chassis Ground  
H1/12  BROWN (-) HORN HONK OUTPUT GREEN/ Red (-)  @ steering column     
H1/13  LT. GREEN/ BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM       not used          
H1/14  WHITE/ BLUE (-) 200 mA CHANNEL 3 VALIDITY OUTPUT not used
H1/15  YELLOW (+) SWITCHED IGNITION INPUT (ACCESSORY) Black (+)    @ ignition harness  
H1/16  ORANGE (-) 500 mA GROUND-WHEN-ARMED OUTPUT   optional  -  Starter Kill, etc       
H1/17  BROWN / BLACK UNLOCK #87A NORMALLY CLOSED        not used     
H1/18  RED / WHITE (-) OUTPUT OF CHANNEL 2     need relay for Trunk/Hatch release...   *** see link below - use top diagram

*** Trunk Release diagram : https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/14301_RAV4_5-WIRE%20TRUNK%20RELEASE%20DIAGRAM.pdf

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Soldering is fun!

thank you 4 the prompt reply.
am a noob on car electical diy.....more at home on mechanical diys....so on a scale of 1 to 10...what would you rate this installation...and how many hours estimate for the job?

This install isn't as complex as doing a remote start or alarm install.  However, to do it properly you will
need a Digital Multi Meter, soldering gun ( and soldering supplies ) and basic automotive hand tools.
There will be some vehicle disassembly for wire access.   You will need to use the DMM to verify the
wires prior to 211HV connection and for years of reliable and trouble-free operation all connections
should be soldered, well insulated ( Scotch Super 33+ tape ) and neatly run.  Due to the soldering and
DMM testing skills required, figure a difficulty rating of 7 on a scale of 10.  Research and planning will be
your best friends.  The wire connection chart posted above will be your basic guide.  Your research
will be finding the correct way to use the DMM in a 12V DC application to locate, test and verify both
(+) and (-) type signal wires in your vehicle.  While the wire guide above is nice, here are the actual
sources of that info :

Here is a link to Bulldog Security :  https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Here is a link to Ready Remote :  https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp
Here is a link to AudioVox :  https://techservices.audiovox.com/AccessRequest.aspx    Sign-up & info is free.

You will find that there are many of the same color wires in the harnesses under the dash, so testing is
crucial.  While they are newer Gen's, there are Pictorials on the 2011 and 2013 RAV4's in the Pictorial section.
They will give you a basic idea of disassembly and wire appearance and location.  Even more assistance
can be found with the Fortin WireColor service.  They will have detailed info with pictures or your 2004
RAV4 for a $5 fee (  https://wirecolor.com/en/ ).

For a novice, wanting to spend the time to learn and do it right, figure about 2 hours on research and unit
prep, then about 3 hours to install.  That 3 hours includes disassembly, wire locating & verification, module
placement, wire routing, wire "cut to length" and soldering, testing, wire & harness securing and re-assembly.

Done right, you will get many years of reliable service and learn a good deal of useful info can be valuable in future projects.

Good luck with your install. 

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Soldering is fun!

thanks for the tips...i was aable to install the viper keyless entry .everything works as stated, but the ignition controlled door lock/unlock doesnt work....pls help me solve this challenge.

Assuming the 211HV programming for Features 1 - 3 are still set at their Default setting, double check your connection from the
211HV Yellow wire @ H1/15 to the RAV4's Black Ignition 1 wire at the ignition switch harness.

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Soldering is fun!

yes thanks!.....that was the problem...hooked it up and my viper keyless works flawlessly now!!!....thanks 4 ur help........would hv probablly paid some1 a tidy sum to do the install without ur surpport.

my wife thinks am a genuis now.....lol, she doesnt know i stood on shoulders of giants 2 achieve the feat

next ops is installing my projector angel eyes with hid on my 4runner

I observed something aagain, pressing the unlock button opens the drivers door, pressing it twice shud open all the other doors...but this isn't so. it takes careful pressing & timing to get the other doors to unlock
am missing something again?

I THink its either programming issue or the 2nd unlock cable .. wht do u think?

H1/2 BLUE (-) 200 mA Second Unlock Output
The H1/2 BLUE output is used for progressive unlock. A progressive unlock system unlocks the
driver's door when the unlock (disarm) button is pressed and unlocks the passenger doors if the
unlock (disarm) button is pressed again within 15 seconds after unlocking the driver's door. The
BLUE wire outputs a low current (-) pulse on the second press of the unlock button of the transmitter.
This negative unlock output is used to unlock the passenger doors.

While the VIper unit allows the button to be pressed again within 15 seconds to allow for the 2nd unlock, the car itself wants to see that 2nd output within 3-5 seconds, or more like 3 seconds... You can test the timing by turning the key to unlock on the drivers door cylinder twice. Do it quickly, then do it with 3 seconds, 5, 10...etc you will see that the key will only unlock the other doors as well if you turn the key quickly. Your Viper is hooked up to the Drivers key cylinder wire, so with the Viper you get the same result as the key cylinder. My Mom has a Rav4 of that Generation and I just set the unit to "double pulse" unlock after she complain to me about 100 times...LOL, I was tired of hearing her. Sooo, when she hits unlock now, the drivers door unlocks and a split second later the rest of the doors open. All with one press of the button. Much , Much better than hearing her complain...

You have two choices to get your progressive unlock working.

1: Take the Viper's second unlock output and add it to the first unlock output you already hooked up. Just jump it right on there---no diodes or relays or anything like that.

You could jump the wires together right at the Viper brain, or extend the second unlock output down to the kick panel where you're hooked into the car.

2: See if the viper's second unlock can be turned off in programming. If you can turn it off, then the regular first unlock should make a pulse every time you press unlock, over and over. And then you wouldn't have to take the car apart again.

flobee4 wrote:

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While the VIper unit allows the button to be pressed again within 15 seconds to allow for the 2nd unlock, the car itself wants to see that 2nd output within 3-5 seconds, or more like 3 seconds... You can test the timing by turning the key to unlock on the drivers door cylinder twice. Do it quickly, then do it with 3 seconds, 5, 10...etc you will see that the key will only unlock the other doors as well if you turn the key quickly. Your Viper is hooked up to the Drivers key cylinder wire, so with the Viper you get the same result as the key cylinder. My Mom has a Rav4 of that Generation and I just set the unit to "double pulse" unlock after she complain to me about 100 times...LOL, I was tired of hearing her. Sooo, when she hits unlock now, the drivers door unlocks and a split second later the rest of the doors open. All with one press of the button. Much , Much better than hearing her complain...

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pls how did you reprogram it?. the instructions on the manual are not straaiught forward. pls explain it in simple easy 2 understand terms

Chris Luongo wrote:

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You have two choices to get your progressive unlock working.

1: Take the Viper's second unlock output and add it to the first unlock output you already hooked up. Just jump it right on there---no diodes or relays or anything like that.

You could jump the wires together right at the Viper brain, or extend the second unlock output down to the kick panel where you're hooked into the car.

2: See if the viper's second unlock can be turned off in programming. If you can turn it off, then the regular first unlock should make a pulse every time you press unlock, over and over. And then you wouldn't have to take the car apart again.

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i would prefer option 2, tired of tearing the car apart. any clues on how to reprogram?..the manual is confusing