2011 tacoma g key dball issues

Hey guys, I'm hoping you can help me solve some issues I'm having with an install I've gone through. I'll outline the info as best I can, and answer any questions which may be required.

First, the equipment used:
1. Viper 5704 2 way remote starter
2. Xpresskit DBALL flashed to TL4, as this is the most up to date firmware for G-key tacomas.
3. The install is going into a 2011 Toyota Tacoma, Double Cab. The immobilizer circuit on the vehicle uses the 80-bit encryption, as specified by the G-Key.

The issues:
1. The DBALL does NOT enter programming mode. Following the instructions at XPRESSlink, the bypass module does not get past the point where the light turns solid red after holding the programming button and inserting the last cable. I've tried this in D2D, and after getting frustrated with it rewired it in W2W. Same result.

2. The way it is currently wired, I cannot use an OEM key to start the truck. Inserting the key and turning it to ON makes some relays click in the dash, but the dashboard does NOT light up, and turning the key to start the vehicle does nothing. To check things out, I connected the IMI ECM wire and IMI Car wire together, as if to put it back to factory. With the key in the ignition, remote start works fine. As well, starting with the key is back to normal. With the key in "ON", prior to "START", the dash lights up like a christmas show, and everything is peachy.

My suspicions:
1. Here's where I need your guys' help. I currently don't have the OEM disarm/rearm wires connected. I simply wired into the door lock/unlock circuits. I didn't think that I needed to wire in the factory alarm wires, since I didn't think that my Taco came with a factory alarm. As well, I don't have any keysense wires connected. Can you tell me if this is required if attempting to bypass Toyota's immobilizer circuit? I'm hoping I'm missing something blatantly obvious, and you guys can give me some guidance.

2. I've hardwired the tach signal from the OBD port to the R/S, since I figured this is supposed to work more reliably than virtual tach. Is this an issue?

3. I've tried reversing the IMI key/ECM cables from the bypass to see if that made a difference, but nada. The IMO cable wasn't touched when I tried this.

Here's the wiring spreadsheet, and the respective connections I made.

Thanks for any help! At this point, I'm about ready to give up on the DBALL, and pick up another bypass but I figured I'd see what you guys think.

I'm not a DB-ALL user but I can say that the iDatalink solution using the ADS TB bypass module with the DBI TB TL5 firmware is a much better choice.  No wires to cut and very easy programming.

Here is a link to the install guide :  https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/TB-TL5/DBI-TB-TL5-EN_20130926.pdf

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Soldering is fun!

The ADS TB bypass solutions is kind of what I'm looking at getting now, but since no installer here in town will sell it with the correct firmware, it looks like I'll be waiting for the bypass to arrive before I can complete the install.

I was just hoping someone could shed some light onto whether the OEM disarm/keysense etc would be required when attempting to program the key, or if there was some other factor at play.

According to the chart on the DB-ALL instructions, only the 2010 Tacoma with a G key is listed. Doesn't look like the DB-ALL will work with your Tacoma

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That sucks. If you're right, then I'll be ordering a new bypass tonight. It looks like NO 2011 or newer Toyota's are listed with G key support. I find it hard to believe that in 2010 they supported G keys for a range of models, then in 2011 all support was dropped. Rather, Toyota made it standard across the board, so there's only G keys from 2011 forward.

Unless I'm out to lunch..

jakub4 wrote:

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That sucks. If you're right, then I'll be ordering a new bypass tonight. It looks like NO 2011 or newer Toyota's are listed with G key support. I find it hard to believe that in 2010 they supported G keys for a range of models, then in 2011 all support was dropped. Rather, Toyota made it standard across the board, so there's only G keys from 2011 forward.

Unless I'm out to lunch..

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Further, their PKALL bypass has wiring instructions for a 2011 with G-Key.

Are you saying that with the programming button pushed in and you insert the last connector the light turns orange but never turns red when you let the button go?

The light turns orange while holding the button and plugging the blue (14-pin) connector in. Once I let the button go, it goes dark for a second then comes back on solid red. To me, this indicates it's waiting for the next programming step, as indicated by the DBALL manual.

For one reason or another, it doesn't sense the key in the ignition is turned to ON when I do it, so the light stays solid red.

I may be lucky, stupid or both. I tapped into a blue/white and GREEN/ black wire in the same connector, but 2 wires which were NOT pins 14 and 20 as required. Going to fix connection and resolder to correct wires right away, wish me luck.

Switched the wires, same result. Everything works except for remote start, and even that starts up for a second when the key is not in the ignition. The dball guide says to switch the IMI wires, but this did nothing. I've pretty much give up on the dballs

do you have the 2nd starter wire connected? what does the led on the dball do when you activate the remote start?

Second starter wire is connected, the dball stays red when remote starting.

One other thing, I can start the vehicle with the key, then use the viper to take over the ignition by pressing the remote start key, and it continues to run. DBALL is red throughout all of this.

If the LED is solid red the module never completed programming. I would double check the wires from the DBALL are in the correct pins on the connector. I have had a few DBALL harnesses that were pinned wrong. I would also triple check that my IMO, IMI, CANH & CANL are all correct. Page 17 in the guide tells you about LED diagnostics & troubleshooting

In case anyone was wondering, I took apart the dball to see if there was anything discernible wrong with it, and a trace was burnt out. Rather than dealing with another potentially problematic bypass, I ordered up an idatalink programmer and bypass. Wired it up wire to wire, flipped the power inn and everything worked the first time. ADS-TL FTW.

   iDatalink...  

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Soldering is fun!

In case anyone was wondering, I took apart the dball to see if there was anything discernible wrong with it, and a trace was burnt out. Rather than dealing with another potentially problematic bypass, I ordered up an idatalink programmer and bypass. Wired it up wire to wire, flipped the power inn and everything worked the first time. ADS-TL FTW.