Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Express dball 2 and Viper 5706v Wiring

I just bought Dball 2 and Viper 5706v. I plan to work with a camry 2011.

This is my first car that I’m trying to install. And I need someone to verify wire connections as I go through wire diagram. Please correct me as I go through wire to wire.

First I want to prep Dball 2 wires to Viper 5706 then I’ll be talking to vehicle wire. I’m using the viper 5704 diagram since it is easier than viper 5706. I name Dball 2 wire diagram on connector 10, 12, and 14 pins as my D1, D2, and D3 and you can see picture below.

Dball 2 wires to viper 5704

D1/10      to     H1/2
D1/9      to      H3/1
D1/3     to     H2/5
D1/2     to     H4/1
D1/1     to      H4/3

D2/1     to      H2/2
D2/3     to     H4/1…from the Door lock, 3pin connector I name it H4
D2/4     to     H2/19
D2/5     to     H2/23
D2/6     to     H2/16
D2/10     to     pin 7 sil of obdii
D2/11      to     not sure where or what they meant by body ecu connector is?
D2/12     to     H2/17

D3/11…look like not connected?
D3/10      to     19pin headlight switch
D3/4     to     pin 4 can low of obdii
D3/3     to     pin 6 can high of obdii

Dball2 4pin d2d      to viper d2d

Thanks and appreciated

Here is the expresskit dball 2
posted_image

and the viper 5704

posted_image

Anybody??? just need to double check wires connection. it's going to be my first install.. appreciated

Are you doing D2D or W2W? If you're doing D2D, you only need the wires with the solid black lines. The dashed blue lines would be optional in D2D.

Do you also have the XKLoader2 to flash the DBALL?

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

I am too installing a DBI idatalink to Viper 5706v alarm/starter. I need help in understating the 10pin connection as shown below. The 2011 camry has 2 ignition wires and 2 starter wires. I need help in understanding how to connect these too the 10pin harness in the Viper.

posted_image

Here is what i am thinking of doing:

1 NC No Connection
NOT USED

2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT;
NOT USED?

or Do i need to connect this to Accessory wire ( WHITE(+) and orange)? This does not make sense? as one is input and output together.

3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY;

NOT USED

4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT;
This is for the Ignition 2 wire (PINK (+).

( I know i can switch this to Accessory 2 or Starter 2 in programming , but for now I leave it as Ignition 2, so I don't have to put a relay, but maybe then I need to put a relay for starter 2.)

5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT;
NOT USED?
or do i need to join with Ignition 1 wire(YEllOW (+)( this does not make sense where you have this coming and the 10 PINK (+) wire coming together. Anyways I don't think it is needed.

6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL);

(STARTER 1 and 2 wires)(YELLOW (+) and PINK (+)) cut and join together key side wires to this green wire. (Basically 2 wires joined together to this green wire) Again I don't know if I need to use a relay for the 2nd starter wire?

7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL);

(STARTER 1 and 2 wires)(YELLOW (+) and PINK (+)) cut and join together car side wire to this violet wire. I don't know if this is correct; I have read that I should use a relay for the 2nd starter wire; someone explain how if so needed.

8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT;
WHITE (+) join this Orange

9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87;
NOT USED

10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT ;
Connect to Ignition 1 wire; BLUE (+)

Overall I am getting confused in how the 2 ignition wires need to go and the 2 starter wires. If someone can clarify that would help me a lot. I am going to use D2D, and for the idatalink I dont have to connect that may wires. The 12 volt input constant on 6pin main harness has 15 amp fuse, while the rest of fused (3 wires) on the 10pin harness have 20 amp fuse.

I THINK I JUST REALIZE MY MISTAKE; all these BELOW i need to connect to a Constant 12V connection.

2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT
9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87

I think, I got the 2 ignition wires figured out, but can i just cut and join the 2 starter wires together or do i need to use relay to separate these out, if so how?

Yes, all three of those wires get connected to +12V constant.

The ignition is controlled through Ignition1 and Ignition2 on the remote start. Your starter wire is a different story.

You have the Starter wire (violet) on the remote start unit. You will need a relay for the car's Starter2.

Pin 85 - Ground
Pin 86 - Starter from alarm (violet)
Pin 30 - Starter 2 on car
Pin 87 - +12V constant - Make sure you install a fuse. 20A should be sufficient.

Never tie both of the starter wires together.

You don't need a DBALL and an iDataLink module. They both do the same thing. You'll have to pick one for your install. ;)

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Sorry; Thank you very much;

I still need little clarification;

When you say pin 85 ground you mean: GROUND to the chassis; or from the 24 pin harness; # 21;Violet / YELLOW; -200mA Starter Output?

Please clarify...

Also, in the 10 pin harness; I will not need to use : #3 PINK/BLAND (+) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY.

Pin 85 will go to chassis ground.

You can also use that violet / YELLOW starter wire if you want, you'd get the same result. It would connect as

85 - violet / YELLOW starter (-) output
86 - +12V constant (fused)
30 - starter2 on the vehicle
87 - +12V constant (fused)

The Flex Relay 87A is not needed for this this install.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Thanks freqsounds, I got from ebay, so its probably not flash yet. No, I don't have XKLoader2. I can have W2W or D2D, but not both.

I might get XKloader later since it got less wires connections. Right now, I just want to make sure that I have connections right from Dball to viper 5704 (5706). And here I rewrite connections again and hope it looks okay?

W2W
D1/1 to H4/3
D1/2 to H4/1
D1/3 to H2/5
D1/10 to H2/9

D2/1 to H2/2
D2/3 to H2/6
D2/4 to H2/19
D2/5 to H2/23
D2/6 to H2/16
D2/12 to H2/17

Here is D2D:
D1/9 to H3/1
D2/10 sil to sil pin 7 obdii
D2/11 RDA to body of ECU connector not sure where it is

D3/3 to can high pin 6 of obdii
D3/4 to can low pin 14 of obdii
D3/10 to pin 19 head light switch
D3/11 not connected?

You're going to have to get it flashed so you program the key. It's not going to work right without flashing. Maybe a local shop will flash it for you for a couple bucks.

As for the connections, all black lines on the diagram for the DBALL need to be connected for D2D.

All wires need to be connected for W2W, the black and dashed blue lines.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Thanks for all your help; I also wanted to know few more things:

1. Should I use actual Tach wire or Virtual tach off D2D of Viper will be ok? In illinois it gets cold in the winter time and I was not sure that if Virtual tach is good enough? or to go with ACTUAL tach wire?

2. Also, for the 24 pin harness of Viper 5706V; I don't really need to use anything expect for 13 BLACK/ WHITE** (-) Neutral Safety/parking brake input.? Besides this everything else can be used if I want to add more relays and do other things, like add more AUX outputs etc...

3. Door locks will be taken care of D2D with idatalink? Correct? So I don't need to worry about wiring this up.

4. Brake will also be taken care of D2D; so no wire needed? Othewise I need to hook up brake and 24 pin; 20 BROWN (+) Brake Shutdown input?

5. In the 6 pin harness; the 6; ORANGE (-)500mA ground when armed output; will not need to be use for the most simple install. SO don't need to use?

6. TRUNK release is built into D2D? If not, I need a relay and wire using the 24 pin; 3; RED / WHITE -200Ma Truck release output; I understand now the the relay hook up.

Are you using the DBALL or idatalink?

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Idatalink _ flashed with DBI to work with viper 5706v communication. 2011 camry.

Alright, I'm completely confused because your opening post said you were using the DBALL, but now it's the idatalink. There are 4 different modules for this car, so I'm going to assume you're using the ADS-ALCA.

1. Many techs swear by hooking up the Tach wire. While I agree, sometimes it's easier to use the Virtual Tach and increase the Fine Tune with a bitwriter by 100ms. The Virtual Tach works pretty well in my opinion if it's tuned correctly. But I have heard that it won't work on some cars, and the tach wire is needed. It's kind of trial and error.

2. You might need the hood pin if the car doesn't have one stock. Same with the trunk. You won't know whether you need these until you test it. Other than that, your neutral safety wire will go to ground if it's an automatic, and the handbrake if it's manual.

3, 4, 5, 6. The iDatalink is supposed to take care of all these via D2D. Sometimes it doesn't though. Unfortunately, the only way to tell if it's going to take care of these is to hook it up and test it before boxing up.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

I am a different user trying to do same but I have idatalink. I got it flashed with DBI, and going to hook up 2way as shown in idatalink manual diagram 1.

I would like ur opinion with the tach wire. Is better for winter time or stick with virtual tach? I don't have a bit writer,

If you don't have access to a bit writer, it may be best to wire up the tach. You can check a local shop to see if they'd charge much to increase the virtual tach fine tune. Without increasing it, I found the car doesn't like to start the first time.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

I have another question?

1. Take the 12v constant from ing harness or run a heavy wire to the car batter? I am asking b/c I will have to connect min of 5, 12v constant and I wanted to get your opinion?

2. Also take tach wire from the injectors or from the inside of car OBD | | conn connector 9? Which is better?

I want to thank you for your help

The +12V at the ignition cylinder should be sufficient for this install.

Either of those connections will work. It's easier at the OBD II connector, but it's your choice.

Just FYI, it's recommended to create your own post to prevent confusion like what happened above. If you have an issue that's related to another thread, you can reference that thread in your post by posting the link. :)

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

I have another similar question, and relates to parking lights, 6 pin connector, viper 5706v.

In 2011 camry, it is a (-) parking light. So I jump fuse on the viper module to (-) , and then use a relay to run the parking lights?

Do I have to use 4 WHITE/ BROWN parking light isolation wire- pin 87a of onboard relay ?

I know I have to use 5 WHITE Parking output ? But do this with a relay?

Thanks

Set up your 5706 as NEG (-) parking lights, and wire the white to the vehicle black wire that's it.
Also the OBD connector pin 9 is the best place for picking up the tach signal.
N.B.
The DB-ALL should provide the above two signals you can go D2D, if it's not giving some listed outputs simply hardwire, no harm done.
P.S. You got the DB-ALL from fleabay? Good luck with that then.

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Test before boxing up.

Piggybacking off of harryharris:

The 87a wires are rarely used except under special applications. The installation manual for the 5706 briefly covers this, but they're not needed for this install. Clip them all and tape them off.

The fuse inside the brain (usually a 10 amp) controls the polarity, so no relay is needed for this. The relay is built inside the 5706. Set the polarity to (-) and connect the white wire to the parking lights.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Thanks everyone. This is really a good point. I am wiring my remote start to learn and gain experience.

Again, question I have is:

1. Can i use my factory installed horn or I have to place the new siren that comes with the viper 5706v unit? I think I can use my car horn; but again I would like your advice?

2. How can i use my other AUX channels that i have leftover? I know I have to use a relay to power the end device such as a dome switch, but i would like to maximize my use of AUX channels and i would like some ideas as to what I can wire up.

3. At what point I should use the car battery as constant 12v? I read that the ignition harness 12v constant provides 30amps, but would that be enough if I were to use the aux channels if I were to use them all? Lets say dome light etc...

4. Also, what does it mean when we say accessories wire output to drive climate system etc..? SO I have to leave my AC or Heat depending on the weather on in the car to make this work? I mean I have to keep the ON, not off position and leave the AC button pressed in? Correct? It is not like that I can control the climate control with the remote starter? I just have to leave the physical knob in the car to the ON position in order to make this work?

I know I am asking too many questions but This will help everyone like me to understand. I am reading up and hopefully not asking dumb questions.

freqsounds wrote:

You're going to have to get it flashed so you program the key. It's not going to work right without flashing. Maybe a local shop will flash it for you for a couple bucks.

As for the connections, all black lines on the diagram for the DBALL need to be connected for D2D.

All wires need to be connected for W2W, the black and dashed blue lines.

Thanks, I'll get it flash.

Is there anything else beside flash dball2 and D2D connections?

Do you know how TLTH1 harness connector? It connects to OBDII one end, but not i'm not exactly the end goes.

Can you double check the D2D connections that I rewrote above?

Reply to vin123
As far as programming is concerned, yes, the DBALL is the only thing that must be programmed before installation.

Before I can answer any of these other questions, I have a couple questions. :)

This is a 2011 Camry, right?

Is this a standard, 'G Key', or 'Smart Key'?

If you haven't already, go to www.xpresskit.com and look up your car on the top right. It will give you a visual diagram of how you need to wire your remote start with the DBALL2.

Reply to thrue1
Don't worry, I'm getting there! Of course the thread would be easier to follow if you had your own thread. Each issue should have its own thread. posted_image

Because the iDatalink module syncs with the factory alarm, it should still give you the horn beep with lock/unlock. I don't know if the Viper will set off the factory alarm if it triggers. And for that, I recommend connecting the siren.

You can use aux channels to automate just about anything. As far as creativity goes, think of something and post a thread, we can't be creative for you! posted_image

Every car is different, and certain things rely on a certain skill level. For example, automating a trunk opening with an actuator would require some mechanical and electrical knowledge.

Aux channels only output 500mA. This isn't enough to power anything except a relay. So to answer your question, it doesn't draw off the +12V constant. Your relay would, however. Your dome light shouldn't be triggered by an aux channel though. It should be triggered by the dome light wire.

The car has separate circuits. For example, it has Ignition, Starter, and Accessory. The ignition handles the engine, the starter handles the starter, and the accessory handles anything that isn't required to start the car, for example, the radio, climate control, cigarette lighters, etc.

Controlling the climate control with the remote start does require a certain level of electrical skill. You won't be able to change the temperature though. You can use relays to bypass the current setting of a physical knob. Good chances are, you won't find a writeup on it, and the project would be fully custom. You'd have to meter the wires and cut wires and make your connections where needed. It would require a significant amount of relays to put a 'hot' or 'cold' setting on an aux channel. I have done this on my older Saab, and it was a pretty intense project. It's just easier to set the knobs before you go in for the night.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Yes, its G key. Can you check the questions above?

appreciated

vin123

Here's a visual diagram of the DBALL installation:

posted_image

You can see this here: https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7734&productid=553&firmwareid=5298

You need Installation 1.

The T-harness isn't going to work for this car.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

It shrunk the image, so you'll probably have to see it in the installation manual. All the black solid lines need to be connected in D2D mode.

W2W requires all the lines to be connected -- black and blue dashed.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

One last question

Suppose I left the AC on and fan knob at 2 setting, after starting my car with remote start the accessory will throw power to this climate control right away, right?

If yes, is there a way to delay this., so that car warns up before AC or Heat gets started? I think is better for engine, no?

I was thinking installing inline to the accessory out put a timer delay.... Like Finder 86.20.0.024, so that I can set the accessory output to turn on after 4 min , let's say. So that. Car can warn up to normal rpm and should get warm for it to be effective? What do you think?

Yea it turns on right away. This doesn't control the coolant going through the heater core, so it's not going to make a difference on the motor.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

I am saying,

For cold winter:

If I kept knob on 2 and started car with remote start, it is not a strain on motor on starting... I see the rpm slowly get to normal after 5 min, and If I started heat with a delay start it would be more effective? No?

For summer:

I think delay start not needed, if you keep AC on really low setting when u remote start? Would help though? No?

If so, do u suggest putting a delay timer on the accessory output (ORANGE). With some capable timer delay?

There shouldn't be a strain on the engine at all, they're two separate systems. The only thing it would strain is the charging system, but it's made to handle it.

I guess what I'm trying to say is, it wouldn't make a difference whether the blower were delayed, at 2, or at 4 during the beginning of the start or while warming up. It has no bearing on the motor.

It wouldn't be more effective either. The climate system doesn't dictate how fast the engine warms up. If it takes a long time for the car to warm up, you might want to get the thermostat in the cooling system checked.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

freqsound, i went to expresskit website and i see 2 dball installation guides.
The one you show me is: dball2 402.TL4 v1.15 firmware release date is 9-25-13.

and the one i've been using is this one: dball2 402.TL7 v1.15
Firmware Released Date: 1/16/2014

so which one should I use? does it matter if i choose either one? all i need is to get the right flash..

thanks

Your firmware is correct. The wiring should be the same though.

You want the latest firmware. It has updated code to make sure everything works properly. Make sure you're flashing it for the 'G Key' though. The encryption on the keys makes a difference.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

thanks you, as you know i'm new to this., there will be more ?s to come. i need to look for more.

thanks again...

No worries, keep the questions coming! Better to learn by questions than error!

Just let us know if you need anything.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

"I am saying for cold winter:
If I kept knob on 2 and started car with remote start, it is not a strain on motor on starting.."

Actually not at all because apart from the other points freqsounds made in answering that question,there's always a delay on of about 4 seconds on vehicular HVAC systems from start up.
When we used to install them the relays had a 3 second on delay.
Also it's not the AC compressor that draws the heavy juice, it's the cooling fans and the heating elements.
Also just noticed freqsound's comment it has no bearingon the motor. Very funny.

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Test before boxing up.

Please help,

I want to Put a delay timer in accessory output. Or, just not hook up accessory wire!

Instead I will put accessory wire on AUX channel and wire with a relay, so that I can turn on after few minutes, let's say in winter so car has enough time to warm up before I turn on the blower fan on position 2?

Is it ok not to use accessory output from remote starter to car? And instead use one of AUX channel to control (power up) the accessory wire? I know I will need a relay?

Just got a better idea.. Just to use a relay:

86: 12v fused
85: -200 mA of AUX 2; latched
87: accessory output (ORANGE)
30: wire hooked up to accessory wire in car

? Would this work?

Just want to Make correction:

It should be latched with reset not just

Latched as previously thread.

No point.
This would be exactly the same as using the +ACC wire at H3/3.
Incidentally on a gasoline engine the ACC doesn't cut in until the engine is running.
You're making unnecessary complications and failure points for the future.
First principle is KISS. Keep it simple, stupid!

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Test before boxing up.

Just want to make sure that I can right?

What I am trying to achieve is that car remote start duration for 1st setting is 12 min, so I start start car with remote start and let it warm up for 6 min, and when I am about to enter car I turn on AUX channel 2 with my remote and if I keep the fan knob at 4 setting, I get instant warm air, thus if I enter car at 11 min , it be nice and warm, And I will have saved initial load / wear on engine and other components.

I would like to do this.... Please help me out...

My logic is that if I install with a timer delay then i am not in control, but if I keep on AUX channel, even if I forget to turn on the channel, even if it is on let's say knob 2 setting, when I insert key into the ignition, the normal ignition system will still kick on power to accessory wire, because my remote accessory output is just an added source, I mean it's not cut like starter wire.....

Of course you can do it that way, aux to 85, 12V+ fused at 30 amps to 86 and 87, 30 to ACC.
Diode across coil* 1N4004, band to 86.
*Prevents relay shutdown spike (c. 200volts) affecting your remote start.
Really can't see the point in all this though, as I said before all HVAC systems are delayed until the engine has been running a short period of time.
You're going to a lot of bother to duplicate your engine management.

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Test before boxing up.

Can I just use the accessory output like this:

85: -200mA AUX 1 let's say , latched until reset

86: Accessory output (ORANGE) coming from remote start of viper.

87: Same accessory output wire(orange ).

30: another same gage wire going to car accessory wire

This way I don't need fuses? Not sure..

Please kindly comment

Yes.

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Test before boxing up.

So that's even simpler and get the full effectiveness I am looking for.

One last question to confirm:

No fuses or diodes needed if I use the accessory output to power the relay in the above setup?

I am all square after this I think , thanks so much.

Diode 1N4004 across 85 and 86 for reasons stated above.

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Test before boxing up.

freqsounds wrote:

Yes, all three of those wires get connected to +12V constant.

The ignition is controlled through Ignition1 and Ignition2 on the remote start. Your starter wire is a different story.

You have the Starter wire (violet) on the remote start unit. You will need a relay for the car's Starter2.

Pin 85 - Ground
Pin 86 - Starter from alarm (violet)
Pin 30 - Starter 2 on car
Pin 87 - +12V constant - Make sure you install a fuse. 20A should be sufficient.

Never tie both of the starter wires together.

You don't need a DBALL and an iDataLink module. They both do the same thing. You'll have to pick one for your install. ;)

Here I won't need a diode on 86 correct?

Except that will cause feedback across the two starters causing problems and fault codes to appear which belies the last comment on the freqsounds post. Wire it thus:-
H2 violet yellow (-) to 85
Fused 30 amps to 86 and 87
2nd starter from 30.
And yes the good old 1N4004 across 85 and 86,
band to 86.

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Test before boxing up.

Can u please explain when you say across 85 and 86?

Either solder the diode across the terminals or when you make your connectors, crimp the diode ends with your connectors, use 1/8" (3.2mm)shrink sleeving over the diodes.
If you still don't follow read up on relays and diodes or archive diode suppression here.

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Test before boxing up.

Here is a link to a nice write-up on relays : https://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm

About two-thirds the way down is a section on Quenching Diodes for the relays' coil. Even shows info on relays with built-in quenching diodes and their markings.

Here is a link to a R/S Install Pictorial that shows the quenching diode installation on a standard Bosch style relay harness : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=133810&tpn=1&PN=1

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Soldering is fun!

I will take your feedback and study.

For the 2nd starter relay is there a way so I don't have to use a diode?

No. Don't use a diode and watch your H2 section fry.

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Test before boxing up.

Is there any way without using diodes? For 2nd starter relay?

freqsounds wrote:

Yes, all three of those wires get connected to +12V constant.

The ignition is controlled through Ignition1 and Ignition2 on the remote start. Your starter wire is a different story.

You have the Starter wire (violet) on the remote start unit. You will need a relay for the car's Starter2.

Pin 85 - Ground
Pin 86 - Starter from alarm (violet)
Pin 30 - Starter 2 on car
Pin 87 - +12V constant - Make sure you install a fuse. 20A should be sufficient.

Never tie both of the starter wires together.

You don't need a DBALL and an iDataLink module. They both do the same thing. You'll have to pick one for your install. ;)

Ok I will use a diode, but just to clarify , in the above post , in this way I still need to use diode ? It was not mentioned in this thread?

Do try to read and understand what I've already posted here: -
"Except that will cause feedback across the two starters causing problems and fault codes to appear which belies the last comment on the freqsounds post. Wire it thus:-
H2 violet yellow (-) to 85
Fused 30 amps to 86 and 87
2nd starter from 30.
And yes the good old 1N4004 across 85 and 86,
band to 86."

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Test before boxing up.

Ok, I will do as instructed,

The diodes come In 1N4001 ... 007, what logic was used to select ...0004 diode? I read that higher have more V rating... Please kindly explain...

I apologize, but I am going to interject here. Thrue1, please create your own thread for this. The objective of controlling the climate control is off topic for this thread.

In addition, vin123, the OP, is getting emails every time someone replies to this thread. I'm sure he's not too thrilled about that, or the fact that it's difficult for him to find the information he needs for his install.

It's not that we don't want to help, but these are the forum rules. If you create a new thread, we will still be glad to help the best we can with this project.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

I have created new forum called , 2011 camry and viper 5706v under relay section. Sorry, I agree with your point

freqsounds wrote:

It shrunk the image, so you'll probably have to see it in the installation manual. All the black solid lines need to be connected in D2D mode.

W2W requires all the lines to be connected -- black and blue dashed.

freqsounds, i'm going to get my xkloader2 to flash my dball2 sometime this week.

here is remote starter from dball and viper 5706
posted_image

viper 5706 10pin heavy gauge connector
posted_image

I'm not sure which pin from viper to my wire chart. hope you can help and correct as i go:

ign1 of dball remoter start as viper #10 pink(+)ign1 input/output
ign2 " ....." viper #4 pink/white (+)ign2/flex relay output?
start1 "...." ??
start2 "..."?
+12v is on viper the 6pin connector is #1 red (+)12vdc constant input

Thanks

I just got my xkloader2 and flash my dball2 to my camry 2011 successfully. And now, I need help on viper5706 which wire going to wire reference chart.

From viper 5706 to wire reference chart below
Please feel free to make correction.
Here is what I come up with and i'm not sure the rest of it:

ign1 10 pink to pin 6 yellow
ign2 4 pink/white to pin 1 pink
starter1 6 green to pin 7 blue
starter2 7 violet to pin 3 gray

posted_image

You need your accessory wire too. This will be the white wire at the ignition cylinder connected by Viper's orange wire.

Keep in mind, there are 2 ignition wires, so you will need to use the Ignition2 wire.

There are also two starter wires. For this, you will need a relay. You have two starter wires on the alarm. The green one is input only. Don't need it. The violet one IS needed. Connect your relay as:

Pin 85 - Ground
Pin 86 - Violet starter wire from Viper
Pin 87 - +12V Constant
Pin 30 - Starter 2 on the car

You can also use the Starter (-) on the 24 pin harness if you want. That would be wired as:

Pin 85 - Violet starter wire from viper (SMALL (-) output)
Pin 86 - +12V Constant
Pin 87 - +12V Constant
Pin 30 - Starter 2 on the car

Either method would work.

Make sure you run a diode (1N4004) across pins 85 and 86 (stripe toward 86) for surge suppression.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

I have a question.

Did not harry said that doing this way below will cause issues with the starter issues? Even after using the Diode across 86 and 85 in this configuration?

Pin 85 - Ground
Pin 86 - Violet starter wire from Viper
Pin 87 - +12V Constant
Pin 30 - Starter 2 on the car

harryharris wrote:

Do try to read and understand what I've already posted here: -
"Except that will cause feedback across the two starters causing problems and fault codes to appear which belies the last comment on the freqsounds post. Wire it thus:-
H2 violet yellow (-) to 85
Fused 30 amps to 86 and 87
2nd starter from 30.
And yes the good old 1N4004 across 85 and 86,
band to 86."

Harryharris, care to elaborate on the science behind this one? I've never had an issue with this before, curious if I'm missing something!

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Yeah, because you do not say to use the diode except the 2nd way

Thank you, freqsounds. It took me awhile to read and read.

From Viper to vehicle ignition
8 Acc orange to white wire at ignition
10 pink to pin 6 yellow ign1
4 pink/white to pin 1 pink ign2
6 green ..Donot use
7 violet w/relay&diode as describe above to starter 2
Is there anthing else from Viper need to connect to vehicle ignition?
whats about at starter1 at the ignition?
And please check the above connection that I re-wrote...

thanks again

Sorry I'm going to contradict myself with this one. After speaking with harryharris, I understood his logic in this.

It is best practice to use the (-) starter wire to power the relay for Starter2. So this wire diagram would be the best one to use:

85 - violet / YELLOW starter (-) output (from 24 pin Viper harness)
86 - +12V constant (fused)
30 - starter2 on the vehicle
87 - +12V constant (fused)
Connect diode (1N4004) from pin 85 to 86, white stripe toward 86.

Your Violet wire from the heavy gauge harness will go to Starter1.

All your other connections look good, but please test your wires with a DMM before connecting them just to be sure.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Questions? where to do you get a relay and a diode? does autostore have it? and when you said connect to +12v constant(fuse), you meant at the ign that measure +12v and add a fuse to it?

Thanks,

vin123

You can get relays and diodes from radio Shack.

The +12V constant means anywhere in the car where there's 12V anytime. For this setup, you can use the +12V at the ignition. The fused part means install a fuse between that pin on the relay and the +12V source. You can get fuse holders from an auto parts store.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Thanks for a quick response. Is there a number for the relay or they know if I ask them for auto relay? and the fuse how many amp and volt?

By the way, there is a jumper on viper. do I need to anything to it?

freqsound, can you answer the 2 posts above. Then I'll be ready to go shopping for relay and fuses.

thanks

Absolutely standard cube type 4 or 5 pin automotive relay.
By jumper do you mean the fuse denoting POS/NEG parking light outputs?
If so read the Xpresskit instructions it will say either POS (most likely) or NEG parking light output shown (dotted lines if D2D) going to the right of the DB-ALL in the diagram.

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Test before boxing up.

okay,whats about the fuse?
The jumper on viper. it is the fuse..if you look on viper 5706..it show the jumper..but i'm not sure where to jump it.

I looked at the dball type 1 instruction, I couldn't positive or negative parking light output.

thanks

I believe on this car, a 20A will suffice.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

freqsound, can you tell me how to test wires using DMM? How can I tell which wire acts as ign1 or ign2 or( start1 or start2)?

By the way, about the relay..do you solder it the pin or using the relay socket to tight it down?

Thanks

Honestly should you even be attempting this install with questions like the last few?

Set DMM to 20VDC, black probe to a good ground, usually a bolt (unpainted) loads of 6mm thread (10mm spanner) in the driver's kickpanel, that's where you will ground the unit by the way, the red probe goes to each wire in turn on the ignition loom as you turn the key from off to ACC to IGN to Start.
As for the last line, WTH do you mean?
Could I suggest you take a quick look through the photos on the pictorial section.
Last go to Amazon, look for the car security installation manual.

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Test before boxing up.

A DMM isn't going to differentiate ign1 or ign2. You have to go by the diagram. They both light up at the same time when the key is in the ON position.

For your relays, wouldn't solder the wires, use wire connectors for these. If the relays came with sockets, connect your wires to the wires on the socket using connectors.

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Vin123 should look at the other forum, I got everything written with viper unit 5706v and 2011 camry

Good man, I originally thought you and Vin were one and the same from the similar questions. posted_image

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Test before boxing up.

No; I have installed a bulldog system on a 2003 maxima, using a key bypass: That was bit intense for me, and at that time I noticed that the aux such as AC, radio, heat Etc... Would kick on in few sec after the car started( assume I left it on), that's why my question before about aux channel. But you guys already answered!

Anyways, I (not vin123), have a question.

Is there any company ( remote) starter that makes keyless bypass built into the remote control box? Yes I understand that it still may need to get programmed, but from my point of view it would be even cleaner install.

DB-ALL2 PRO by DEI, Compustar "Blade" series.

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Test before boxing up.

Bulldog makes some . They have a "B" designation at the end of the model number. They are basically a "key in the box" style
combo unit. Think RS1100 with the 791 bypass built in.

If you want to go high tech, Compustar has the FT5x00 and the FT6x00 units ( and FT7x00, soon ) that have a docking port for a
full featured, data style, bypass module made by iDatalink called the Blade ( either Blade AL or TB ). These are great systems that
provide a very clean / compact install. These units, due to the programming and firmware flash requirements, are typically
"professional use" only. Omega also makes the Excalibur models ending in "EDPB" that accept an OEM version of the Blade cartridge.

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Soldering is fun!

thrue1 wrote:

Vin123 should look at the other forum, I got everything written with viper unit 5706v and 2011 camry

His last two questions wouldn't have been answered by your write-up though. :-)

My compliments to you for posting your write-up though! Every bit helps!

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Thanks guy.. I look into it.

Hi Harry,

I have one more question;

I can just tap off the 12v constant at one point along the wire, and then use ring terminals or a small connector box to feed the rest of the needed 12v constant for the relays.., ignition 12v fused, etc...

Let me clarify if u did not understand my question.

Here is a diagram: IS OK TO DO THIS WAY? This way I am not making new taps for every 12 volt needed?

posted_image

THATS ALL THE 12VOLT CONSTANTS I NEED FOR A BASIC INSTALL; without any other fancy AUX channels being used.

Yes, correct though if there's a fusebox nearby with a very thick white feeder cable use that.

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Test before boxing up.

Ok thanks: ignore post in my forum. : got mixed up

OK, now do you see the point of separating the threads?

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Test before boxing up.

Hi Harry,

You said that 2011 camry has a factory hood pin, but cannot find?

My info was from Directechs but on another post which you're involved with apparently only the SLE model.

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I installed the hood pin that came with viper unit. Ran it through grommet thru hood release. Same with the siren. Will mount siren by the battery .

I don't need a fuse or diode for the hood pin?

SUCCESS!!!

I HAVE INSTALLED THE AUTO STARTER and WORKS FINE:

Few advice:
1. Do prep work before hand with the viper unit and idatalink(or dball). Get all wires cut, taped etc ready to go before.

2. I installed the Siren and the hoodpin; Had to fish the hood opening cable back and forth to get the siren wire and hoodpin (gray) wire to outside by the battery. VERY DIFFICULT TO DO.

3. Need to take off the airbag unit(4 bolts) to get to ignition wires. DO NOT UNPLUG ANY YELLOW HARNESS ON THE AIRBAG!!!

4. Turn the Steering wheel left or right to access the screw that holds the steering wheel cover. Unless you can get the "black" wire straight, you will need to open this to see the 20 pin and the 18 black wire. I made connection there.

5. Remove the factory tape from the ignition wire bunch; this way you know that the group of 8 ignition wires will be in one group which is the only one you will need to work on.

6. Get lots of twist ties... you will need everywhere

7. On the left side kick-panel; you will see a grounding bolt grounding out two wires that are on a ring terminal. Group all 4 grounding wires together in a ring terminal and join at this bolt.

8. THERE IS NOT MUCH ROOM TO SET THE REMOTE START AND IDATALINK and the shock sensor; Mine unit hands right between the brake and the parking brake.

9. You will need to change MENU 3 setting to: Automatic transmission from manual

10. You will need to change to TACH (I used TACH WIRE TO ODBII ) If you use this need to change settings.

Good to hear everything working fine for you. I haven't started yet. But I will soon.

By the way, do you be any chance posting picture here as for my references?

I look under hood and i don't see a place to install siren.

About the constant 12volt, did you install the terminal to solder? I knew you ask someone some where in the post.

Look in front of the battery towards the light. I hung mine there by the support with a small bolt and lock washer and nut. Just only got one side of the siren foot. I will send u a photo.

The hood pin also has a location so you don't have to drill a new hole.

thrue1, where do you see wire information for camry 2011? I looked at your post, it isn't the same as mine. I found mine at this site the12volt.com.

thanks

thrue1 wrote:

SUCCESS!!!

I HAVE INSTALLED THE AUTO STARTER and WORKS FINE:

Few advice:
1. Do prep work before hand with the viper unit and idatalink(or dball). Get all wires cut, taped etc ready to go before.

2. I installed the Siren and the hoodpin; Had to fish the hood opening cable back and forth to get the siren wire and hoodpin (gray) wire to outside by the battery. VERY DIFFICULT TO DO.

3. Need to take off the airbag unit(4 bolts) to get to ignition wires. DO NOT UNPLUG ANY YELLOW HARNESS ON THE AIRBAG!!!

4. Turn the Steering wheel left or right to access the screw that holds the steering wheel cover. Unless you can get the "black" wire straight, you will need to open this to see the 20 pin and the 18 black wire. I made connection there.

5. Remove the factory tape from the ignition wire bunch; this way you know that the group of 8 ignition wires will be in one group which is the only one you will need to work on.

6. Get lots of twist ties... you will need everywhere

7. On the left side kick-panel; you will see a grounding bolt grounding out two wires that are on a ring terminal. Group all 4 grounding wires together in a ring terminal and join at this bolt.

8. THERE IS NOT MUCH ROOM TO SET THE REMOTE START AND IDATALINK and the shock sensor; Mine unit hands right between the brake and the parking brake.

9. You will need to change MENU 3 setting to: Automatic transmission from manual

thrue1, on #9 ...are you talking on remote key remote?

10. You will need to change to TACH (I used TACH WIRE TO ODBII ) If you use this need to change settings.

and #10 where do you change the settings?

I'm going prep my in a couple week.

Bulldog security or. It should be in you're xpresskit manual for your car and make

Vin ref. your last question, try reading the quick reference guide that comes with the unit it answers all your questions.

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Test before boxing up.

Just got my done and it works with two way LED remote. The one way remote (companion remote) doesn't work. Maybe someone knows, please let me know. I followed the steps on the manual came with, but it didn't work for me.

I also have my air bag light on. Maybe someone can tell how to turn it off.

this is Viper 5706v(5906) on express dball 2

Thanks...
vin123

First off, the cooling/overheating issue you're having is completely unrelated. Make sure you get that taken care of before you blow a head gasket or crank the engine block!

Second, you don't need to cut any starter wires. The only wire that should be cut is the autolight circuit (where the scissors are.)

If you had 2 starter wires, the remote starter would have never worked since you installed it. Both of them would require power while the car is starting.

What is the exact starting issue you're having?

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No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

On your large gauge harness, make sure you power up red,RED / white,RED / black to constant 12v. This vehicle uses 2x start and 2x ignition wires.

viper pink (ign 1) to vehicle BLACK/ red
viper pink/white (ign 2) to vehicle BLACK / YELLOW
viper purple (starter 1)to vehicle BLACK / YELLOW (smaller gauge)

viper violet / YELLOW 24pin harness to a relay
85 - violet / YELLOW second start output
86 - constant 12v
87 - constant 12v fused at 10 amps
30 - vehicle start 2 wire BLACK/ white
Diode across the coils 85/86. Band towards 86( or positive side)

On that note, your overheating issues is a mechanical issues, not electrical.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert