2011 camry and viper 5706v
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136209
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 3:02 AM
Topic: 2011 camry and viper 5706v
Posted By: thrue1
Subject: 2011 camry and viper 5706v
Date Posted: March 02, 2014 at 8:29 PM
Diodes useage?
Replies:
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 02, 2014 at 9:03 PM
I would like to reconfirm the use of diode in relay for 2nd starter connection.
I was told,
85: -200mA starter output ( 24 pin harness in viper 5706v - # 21 violet/ yellow
86 & 87. - 12v fused with 30 amp
30- connect to 2nd starter wire in camry
Use diode 1N4004 between 86 and 85, with strip of diode towards 86, cathode towards 86
Also why use 1N4004 and not higher like 1...007?
What is logic in selecting right diode?
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 7:28 AM
Two reasons:-
If you properly read any of my answers in the previous thread I said the relay spike is c. 200 volts.
A 4004 handles 400 volts inverse so it's man enough for that.
Secondly it's the most widely available, I buy about 300 at a time.
You didn't really have to post those questions but should have taken up Kreg's advice on the previous thread.
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 7:54 AM
Thank you I am going to wire my 2nd starter exactly as told above.
As for the accessory wire I will not do anything like put it on a AUX channel.
You had said that there is build in delay by ECM , how long is the delay for?
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 7:57 AM
It doesn't matter how long these circuits are inactive during the start cycle.
HVAC depends but about 3 seconds.
Just attempt your instal then you can worry these things.
Congratulations by the way you've bought up a topic that no on else has thought of and do you know why?
Because in the real world it doesn't matter!
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: freqsounds
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 9:24 AM
In addition to all this, it may be beneficial to contact your local Toyota dealer to learn about the climate system. Going forward on this particular project will void any existing warranty on the heating/cooling system. And as stated before, the engine management system accounts for these circumstances.
New car manufactures have basically dummy-proofed vehicles. There is nothing you can do inside your car to cause extra wear to the engine by turning on the heat or A/C.
I understand you're looking to do something with the Aux channels on your remote start. This isn't a feasible option to use the Aux channels though.
If you have a locking gas door, you can program an Aux channel to open it.
If you have a sound system, you can use an Aux channel to turn it on during a competition or to scare the cat off the hood of your car (that is something a customer wanted to do!  )
I also respect the fact that it is your car, and you can do anything you want with it, but we believe this is more-or-less a waste of time and energy as this won't help prevent any damage to your car. In fact, it could damage your car because you're modifying OEM equipment that wasn't made to be tampered with.
------------- No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 9:26 AM
I'm in 110% (!) agreement.
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 8:25 PM
Thank you... I will not wire the Accessory with the relay. I use the output provided by the remote start and connect to the accessory wire on the car.
But for sure I will do as said earlier for the 2nd starter wire with the relay and the diode across 86 and 85 with the stripe towards 86.
I think i got everything so let me run down what i need to do one last time with all the harnesses listed and their connections.
I am going to give matching color on the 2011 Toyota Camry. ALSO I am going to add the idatalink wiring as well.
First: VIPER 5706V
Main Harness, 6-pin connector
1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT
(BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1)
2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND
(FIND A GOOD CHASSIS GROUND; BOLT ON RING TERMINAL ETC)
3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT
(CONNECT TO POSITIVE SIDE OF SIREN (RED WIRE)
(MOUNT SIREN somewhere by the brake fluid resivor away from moving parts of engine)
(BRING THE (-) BLACK WIRE of the SIREN BACK inside the car and mount with above ground connection)
4 WHITE/ BROWN- PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay
(NOT USED)
5 WHITE- PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT
(Switch the fuse in the Viper control box to (-) setting)
(Connect this wire to: BLACK (-) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, WHITE 20-PIN PLUG, PIN 18)
6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT
NOT USED [/B}
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 8:31 PM
Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT
NOT USED due to D2D with idatalink
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT
NOT USED due to D2D with idatalink
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 8:31 PM
Door Lock, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT
NOT USED due to D2D with idatalink
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT
NOT USED due to D2D with idatalink
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 8:54 PM
Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector
1 NC No Connection
2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
(Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1)
3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
NOT USED
4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
Connect to PINK (+)@ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 1
5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT
(Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1)
6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
CUT BLUE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 7
Connect the side of this Blue wire that is on the key side (towards where one places key to start) (or the Right side) to this GREEN (+) Starter input.
7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
Connect this cutted Blue wire (left side) ( or side that goes towards ignition towards engine) to this VIOLET(+) wire.
This is the only wire which one has to cut and make separate connections from it(NOTE)
8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
( Connect this to WHITE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 2)
(NOTE: FROM many above conversations with the fine folks I have decided NOT to place a relay to control this; WISE CHOICE)
9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
(Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1)
10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
Connect to YELLOW (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 6
SINCE THIS 2011 TOYOTA CAMRY has 2nd Starter wire, NEED TO CONNECT THIS AS WELL: so here is the process for that: need a SPDT relay
86 and 87 CONNECT to 30Amp Fused; 12V CONSTANT. You can take one wire and make a Y split after the fused portion.
85: The ( 21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT) from the 24 pin Aux harness on Viper 5706.
30: Connect to 2nd starter wire in Camry ( So this would be the GRAY (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 3)
MUST: USE Diode 1N4004 across 86 and 85 with the strip or (cathode) towards 86. One can solder this to the relay harness or crimp.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 8:54 PM
Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector
1 NC No Connection
2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
(Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1)
3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
NOT USED
4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
Connect to PINK (+)@ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 1
5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT
(Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1)
6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
CUT BLUE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 7
Connect the side of this Blue wire that is on the key side (towards where one places key to start) (or the Right side) to this GREEN (+) Starter input.
7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
Connect this cutted Blue wire (left side) ( or side that goes towards ignition towards engine) to this VIOLET(+) wire.
This is the only wire which one has to cut and make separate connections from it(NOTE)
8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
( Connect this to WHITE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 2)
(NOTE: FROM many above conversations with the fine folks I have decided NOT to place a relay to control this; WISE CHOICE)
9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
(Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1)
10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
Connect to YELLOW (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 6
SINCE THIS 2011 TOYOTA CAMRY has 2nd Starter wire, NEED TO CONNECT THIS AS WELL: so here is the process for that: need a SPDT relay
86 and 87 CONNECT to 30Amp Fused; 12V CONSTANT. You can take one wire and make a Y split after the fused portion.
85: The ( 21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT) from the 24 pin Aux harness on Viper 5706.
30: Connect to 2nd starter wire in Camry ( So this would be the GRAY (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 3)
MUST: USE Diode 1N4004 across 86 and 85 with the strip or (cathode) towards 86. One can solder this to the relay harness or crimp.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 9:18 PM
I AM NOT GOING TO DO ANYTHING YET WITH MY AUX CHANNELS FOR NOW SO IAM JUST GIVING STRAIGHT BASIC BREAKDOWN.
Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector
1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA Ignition 2/Flex OUTPUT -NOT USED
2 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT -NOT
USED
3 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT -NOT USED
4 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT -NOT USED
5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT -NOT USED
6 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT -NOT USED
7 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT -NOT USED
8 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT -NOT USED
9 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO)
( CONNECT THIS GRAY WIRE TO THE HOOD PIN underneath side ; crimp into connector provided and join) Usually it is good to leave it NO condition;
10 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR N/O)
Idatalink should take care of this with D2D
11 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT -NOT USED
12 VIOLET/WHITE* TACHOMETER INPUT
( I AM NOT GOING TO USE VIRTUAL TACH as I think this is better as I don’t have a bit writer tool)
SO: Connect to: BLACK (AC) @ OBD II Connector, BLACK 16-PIN PLUG, PIN 9)
13 BLACK/ WHITE** (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY /PARKING BRAKE INPUT
GROUND THIS WIRE on a good chassis ground like with above harnesess.
14 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT -NOT USED
15 GREEN* (-) DOOR INPUT -NOT USED
idatalink should take care of this with D2D
16 BROWN / BLACK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT -NOT USED
17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT -NOT USED
18 VIOLET* (+) DOOR INPUT -NOT USED
19 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT -NOT USED
20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT -NOT USED
Taken care by idatalink D2D
21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
AM GOING TO USE with a relay for the 2nd starter connection; see above with the 10pin harness explained.
22 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT -NOT USED
23 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT -NOT USED
24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT -NOT USED
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 9:25 PM
NOW I AM GOING TO WRITE ABOUT THE LAST REMAINDER:
Shock Sensor and Neutral Safety Switch and D2D port and antenna:
Shock sensor:
Connect the harness to the sensor provided. Make sure the green wire that is not free, i mean that is looped back into harness is the side that goes into the shock sensor.
The side with the free green wire, is the side which will go into the sensor input port on the viper control box.
MOUNT the sensor in a good place. COMMENTS WELCOME on this topic[/B}
Neutral safety switch:
Just connect into the control box.
D2D port:
Viper came with 2 harnesses; I only used the one that fit the one with the idatalink (seems to be one more on the idatalink joining harness)
Antenna:
Plug harness; and run into control box; Stick antenna right by your IPASS!!!
NExt I am going to talk about idatalink only.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 9:42 PM
idatalink: D2D; dBi-al(dl)-tl5-En I have Viper 5706V so I had to get programmed with DBI type.
I have a G-Key 80bit; install type 1; so look at drawing 1 on the manual.
I need to connect only, as everything dotted lines will be taken care of D2D firmware.
LEFT SIDE OF DRAWING:
PARKING LIGHTS: (DONE; read above post)
D2D harness (DONE; read above post)
RIGHT SIDE:
STANDARD (12V, IGNITION, ACCESSORY,
STARTER) REMOTE STARTER
(ALL DONE with the 10pin harness)
JUST NEED TO:
Connect: IGNITION A, meaning; Ignition 1; PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT to the PINK - IGNITION (+) INPUT ON THE IDATALINK HARNESS.
BROWN / RED - CANH
Connect to(Black (DATA) OBDII)
BROWN / YELLOW- CANL
Connect to: (White (DATA) OBDII)
ORANGE / BLACK - IMMOBILIZER DATA
Connect to:Gray (DATA) OBDII
GRAY/RED - GROUND (-) INPUT
JUST TO GROUND....
PLEASE HELP I dont know what it means by 'without OEM hood status only'; I don't think Camry has a hood pin status so I can just connect to ground?
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 9:48 PM
can anyone review all this and let me know if i miss anything.
the programming of your factory key should be easy. if not i will wirte back.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 03, 2014 at 9:56 PM
ONE MORE QUESTION
IN MENU 3; REMOTE START of VIper 5706V
I need to change the Engine Checking Mode to Tachometer; Correct? as I am going to use the Tach input for wiring?
Virtual Tach
Voltage
Off
Tachometer
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 04, 2014 at 4:43 PM
Anyone welcome to comment
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 05, 2014 at 12:03 AM
Anyone please comment
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 06, 2014 at 7:57 AM
Anyone
Posted By: freqsounds
Date Posted: March 06, 2014 at 8:04 AM
If your connections above are exactly what is shown in the diagram, then they are correct. There's no sense in reinventing the wheel, which is why there's a visual diagram. 
If you don't have a hood pin (you won't know until you hook up the iDatalink), you'll have to install one.
If you are using the Tach wire, you will need to change the setting in menu 3.
If your car has a manual transmission, connect the Neutral Safety wire to the E-Brake. Otherwise, connect it directly to ground.
------------- No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 07, 2014 at 12:40 AM
Connect and initialise the idatalink unit after 5706 is powered up.
Without OEM hood switch means the vehicle doesn't have one ex-factory. If not you have to install one.
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 07, 2014 at 5:58 AM
Can you kindly explain the issue with diode on the express ball forum?
Posted By: freqsounds
Date Posted: March 07, 2014 at 7:48 AM
thrue1 wrote:
Can you kindly explain the issue with diode on the express ball forum?
What issue? ------------- No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 07, 2014 at 4:25 PM
What's the "express ball forum"?
And please, please stop saying "kindly".
It reminds me of people who say "honestly" or "with all due respect",
you know they don't mean it.
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 07, 2014 at 4:28 PM
If diode is needed no matter which way I hook up the 2nd starter wire?
You told of two ways; one by using starter 1 (violet), and other using the -200mA starter output. I understand what to hook up with the relay's , but do I need to use 1n4004 diode irrespective of which method I use? This is my question.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 07, 2014 at 5:05 PM
Any comment on the diode and method
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 07, 2014 at 5:29 PM
The second method and use the diode.
I'm sure this is at least the fourth time freqsounds, myself and possibly Kreg have said this on this thread and the last thread you hijacked.
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 07, 2014 at 7:28 PM
NO MORE QUESTION ON THIS DIODE TOPIC; I will wire as below for the 2nd Starter wire.
H2 violet yellow (-) to 85
Fused 30 amps to 86 and 87 ( MEANING it will a fuse before the split connecting 86 and 87.)
2nd starter from 30.
And yes the good old 1N4004 across 85 and 86,
band to 86.
OK; THANK YOU!!!
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 2:02 AM
Absolutely correct  ------------- Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 10:14 AM
Use mini fuses. Or. ATC larger type for the 30 Amp?
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 12:03 PM
So my question is what type of fuse and gage wire to use; If I use a mini fuse then the fuse holder comes with 16 gage; If I use larger ATC type of fuse the fuse holder comes with 10 gage wires. In this application I think I need a ATC type of fuse, but again I would like to know for sure!!!
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 08, 2014 at 5:55 PM
It doesn't matter as long as the length is kept short.
The starter is only going to crank for about 1/2 second.
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: vin123
Date Posted: March 14, 2014 at 1:04 PM
thrue1 wrote:
Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector
1 NC No Connection
2 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 12V ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
(Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1)
3 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
NOT USED
4 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
Connect to PINK (+)@ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 1
5 RED (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 1 INPUT
(Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1)
6 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
CUT BLUE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 7
Connect the side of this Blue wire that is on the key side (towards where one places key to start) (or the Right side) to this GREEN (+) Starter input.
7 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
Connect this cutted Blue wire (left side) ( or side that goes towards ignition towards engine) to this VIOLET(+) wire.
This is the only wire which one has to cut and make separate connections from it(NOTE)
8 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
( Connect this to WHITE (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 2)
(NOTE: FROM many above conversations with the fine folks I have decided NOT to place a relay to control this; WISE CHOICE)
9 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 12V IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
(Connect to constant 12V; BLACK (+) @ DASH FUSEBOX, WHITE 1-PIN PLUG(A), PIN 1)
10 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
Connect to YELLOW (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 6
SINCE THIS 2011 TOYOTA CAMRY has 2nd Starter wire, NEED TO CONNECT THIS AS WELL: so here is the process for that: need a SPDT relay
86 and 87 CONNECT to 30Amp Fused; 12V CONSTANT. You can take one wire and make a Y split after the fused portion.
85: The ( 21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT) from the 24 pin Aux harness on Viper 5706.
30: Connect to 2nd starter wire in Camry ( So this would be the GRAY (+) @ IGNITION SWITCH, WHITE 8-PIN PLUG, PIN 3)
MUST: USE Diode 1N4004 across 86 and 85 with the strip or (cathode) towards 86. One can solder this to the relay harness or crimp.
Nice wrote up. where do you get vehicle wire diagram? I'm using dball diagram on camry 2011.
on the viper 10pin heavy gauge:
pin 6 green and 7 violet ..i'm confused when you said cut blue wire. is it one end to pin6 green and another goto pin7 violet?
I'm using dball with viper 5706 and the same as you have camry 2011 with "G" dot on.
Thanks
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 14, 2014 at 1:36 PM
Blue is ur starter 1 wire , on the car, need to cut this wire , split:
Posted By: vin123
Date Posted: March 15, 2014 at 2:00 PM
thrue1, did you install your camry what you wrote above? how is it?
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 15, 2014 at 7:30 PM
No not yet. Waiting for warmer weather.
Posted By: vin123
Date Posted: March 16, 2014 at 12:05 AM
Yes, I'm waiting too for the warm weather. I live in north of minnesota.
By the way, I went out today looking for my relay, fuse, and diode. And I couldn't find the diode. I went to RadioShack both locations..there isn't any. One of the saleperson said they discontinue. And the relay, they don't have connector or socket with.
I saw the fuse.
Any place that may has them?
Thanks,
vin123
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 16, 2014 at 2:16 AM
Vin, you just discovered another problem for the amateur, obtaining miscellaneous parts.
I rarely have less than 20 each of different relay types, buy my diodes as 100/500 plus etc.
I almost shudder to say this but try fleabay.
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 16, 2014 at 8:32 AM
Buy from Amazon. I did,
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 16, 2014 at 8:37 AM
Good answer.
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 16, 2014 at 9:16 AM
Hi Harry,
Can you reply to my question in vin123 forum
I wrote there by mistake? It is about connecting 12v constant for multiple use.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 16, 2014 at 9:38 AM
Hi Harry,
Yes; Agree;
One more question:
this one is about the 2nd starter relay. In the viper 5706v it says to cut the 1st starter and join with the respective(key side and starter side); I got this point...
But,
Question for the 2nd starter relay; using a relay; the 30 will go to the 2nd starter( as a tap), I will not have to CUT the 2nd starter wire like the 1st starter wire? I think this is correct but want to make sure.
Basically, the starter kill on the 1st starter wire; inside is programmed that if there is a command from the using a remote starter throw power or connect line to car side of starter kill to start the stater.
Whereas, if we did not use the remote start, and just turned on car using a key, how does it know that power needs to go to the 1st starter wire (if it is CUT) and joined to the remote starter?
I guess I am not understanding with and without remote start as it pertains to the Starter wires?
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 16, 2014 at 10:04 AM
Amateur mistake, over thinking without understanding.
The second starter is a "booster" device, fuel enrichment etc. for cold weather.
You only cut the first starter wire, not the second.
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 16, 2014 at 10:05 AM
got it;
thanks
Posted By: vin123
Date Posted: March 16, 2014 at 10:50 PM
thanks thrue1, i got it order amazon
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 17, 2014 at 7:51 AM
Do me a favor;
I want you to list out all the connections like I did with viper 5706v and express kit that u have to the car. This way it will help us both, double check, explain more where needed like cutting relays etc thanks
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 9:05 PM
I have one more question?
I wired the diode between 86 and 85 with strip towards 86, I want to know if I use an analog multimeter to make sure I did not fry diode while soldering.
I use 1 ohm : I connect red(+) of multimeter to 85 and black(-) to 86 and I get a flow of current.? Is this correct? I think it is but want to make sure.
Opposite way: no flow.
Posted By: vin123
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 12:06 PM
The viper 57076 is going to be the same as your connections. And I'll check the connection again on the viper.
And here is express dball 2 type 1 installation. I use the solid lines since I'll be using D2D. The word "not use" means its dot line due to D2D.
Connector #12 on Dball
1 (-) Handbrake Status Output: BLACK/ White..not use
3 (-) Door Status Output: GREEN / WHITE. not use
4 (-) Trunk Status Output: RED / Black.. not use
5 (AC) Tach Output: Violet/White. not use
6 (+) Brake Status Output: Gray. not use
10 SIL: Yellow/Black…To OBDII Sil Pin 7
11 RDA: ORANGE / Black. not use dont have on camry 2011 "G"
12 (-) Hood Status Output: Blue/Red. not use
Connector#10
1: Green: (-) Lock Input. not use
2: Blue: (-) Unlock Input..not use
3: RED / White: (-) Trunk Input. not use
10: Blue/White: (-) GWR (Status) Input not use
9: Pink: (+)Ignition Input.To Viper Ign1 pin5 Red(+) fuse 12v ign1 iput
Connector#14
3 HS Can High Tan/Black..To OBDII Can High pin 6
4 HS Can Low Tan..To OBDII Can low pin 14
10 Auto Headlamp Shutoff: ORANGE / red..To Head light Switch pin 19
11 Auto Headlamp Shutoff: Yellow/Red…Not use.this one get cut
13 (+) 12v:Red…Not use
14 (-) Ground.Black…Not use
Here is the xpress dball2
https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=9478&productid=553&firmwareid=7036
https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=9478&productid=553&firmwareid=7036
Posted By: vin123
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 12:08 PM
viper5706 ..miss type
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 1:02 PM
True1, your last question ref. relay and diode is correct, did you mention analog meter at one point?
Don't unless like me you know what you're doing an analog meter will fry any chip driven components.
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 1:16 PM
Yes: it's not hooks up yet ; just testing and getting relay ready
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 1:23 PM
OK
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: vin123
Date Posted: March 21, 2014 at 8:54 PM
thrue1, can you let me know how it goes with your installation?
I'm still waiting for my orders and weather to warm here..
vin123
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 22, 2014 at 4:57 AM
I got prep work done with the relay, and used plastic ties on unused wires. I don't want to cut them, maybe for the future
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 23, 2014 at 2:03 PM
Question,
The viper 5706v did not come with an led light? Is that correct?
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 23, 2014 at 2:17 PM
The control button and led are both on the antenna? Correct?
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 23, 2014 at 2:50 PM
Question,
When I connect hood pin switch in the engine bay and run the wire back into 24 pin, gray wire (9), do I need to put any diodes in between?
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 23, 2014 at 2:53 PM
No, why would you need to?
Especially when it's here, not in the engine bay:-
Left of steering column, gray 25 pin plug, pin 2
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 23, 2014 at 3:00 PM
I heard in some online video, ok thank u
In most cases hood pin should be as NO, Meaning when hood is closes it should see ground
Pin 9,gray is as (-) hood pin input (NC or NO)
I need to set to NO , because of hood is open it is not depressed, but when closed ground is seen by pin 9.
Explain if wrong
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: March 23, 2014 at 3:14 PM
So what you are saying that toyota camry 2011 has a hood pin already from factory and I don't need to install one that is given in viper 5706v?
I can just join viper 24 harness pin 9 to 25 pin plug pin 2? Is it NO or NC
Posted By: harryharris
Date Posted: March 23, 2014 at 4:04 PM
Couldn't you even look and check?
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Test before boxing up.
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: April 06, 2014 at 1:11 PM
Hi
I just started wiring: removed panel and the airbag bracket; did not unplug the airbag connectors
Where is this hood pin wire?
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: April 06, 2014 at 1:44 PM
I am definitely not reading thru these 7 pages to find out, but unless it's an SLE Camry it does not have a hoodpin switch from the factory.
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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: April 06, 2014 at 2:40 PM
There does not seem any place to get through the fire wall? To place the siren? And the provided hood pin wires?
I was advised not to use the factory siren, now how to get through the fire wall?
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: April 06, 2014 at 3:13 PM
If there isn't a visible factory grommet, drill a hole where the clutch pedal would be....
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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: thrue1
Date Posted: April 08, 2014 at 7:58 AM
Success!
All done car works fine.
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