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avital 4x03 remote start, 98 lexus gs400

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136292
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 2:08 AM


Topic: avital 4x03 remote start, 98 lexus gs400

Posted By: kastenbm
Subject: avital 4x03 remote start, 98 lexus gs400
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 12:09 PM

Im new to this forum, so to anyone reading any help would be greatly appreciated!

I installed the avital remote start system in my 98 lexus gs400. The avital box an manual say model 4113 an the module says 4x03. Got everything hooked up an I can't get it to do anything...remote start will not program, status light will not come on at all, parking lights not flashing, etc. Everything is properly connected to best of my knowledge. Any ideas, thoughts, advice would be appreciated! Thanks



Replies:

Posted By: ccaudio
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 1:29 PM
You have to make sure the antenna is plugged in for anything to work. Or I would check all my connections again




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 1:34 PM
It definitely is plugged in. I also tried a different ground just to be sure, that didn't change anything. I'll triple check my connections though to make sure they're correct.




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 2:22 PM
Can you list out your connections for us please



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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: blanx218
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 3:29 PM
Tap the WHITE/ blue wire to ground. If the car starts then it's a remote/antenna issue. If it doesn't then you have a power/ground issue or a defective brain.




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 3:54 PM
Connections made:
     Module | Car
(-) Lights< >yellow/red
(Output) IGN< >BLACK / YELLOW
(Output) STA< >black
(Output) ACC< >blue / YELLOW
(Input) 12v < >WHITE/ blue
Program (Output)
for IGN/ACC < >BLACK/ white
        Tach< >BLACK / YELLOW(eng.bay ECM)
   (+) Brake< >GREEN / WHITE
*hood pinswitch shutdown connected
*Ground connected with bolt on crash bar under dash




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 3:56 PM
Try what bland suggested

Where did you connect the BLACK/ white neutral safety shutdown wire ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 4:00 PM
I don't currently have that switch connected. I was told it wasn't necessary since my hood pinswitch shutdown wire was connected. Wasn't sure if it was a must have?




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 4:07 PM
The switch isn't but the wire is. If it's an automatic it should grounded. If it's a stick it needs to be connected to the ebrake.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 4:35 PM
I wired the neutral safety switch wire to ground (without the toggle switch), still nothing. I tried touching the WHITE/ blue activation wire to ground, nothing happened there either.




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 5:29 PM
Can you list out the remote start to vehicle wiring you made.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 6:11 PM
I listed the connections earlier in the post. Was there any additional info you needed?
Also I checked again, just to be sure, I have good constant (+) 12v, an good ground going to avital module.
Should I ground the activation wire??
The manual confuses me, it says at the wiring description it isn't available on one button remotes, and at the activation wire description it doesn't say that it's not available for one button remote?? Also says not required unless using security or keyless entry remote.




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 6:15 PM
I just reread your post sorry you did list them try moving your ground to the kick panel clean any paint

You can try tapping the activation wire to ground if you haven't changed programming it will be one pulse

Also have you tried to do a take over see if that part works

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 6:40 PM
I'll try moving the ground to the kick panel (I'll try anything at this point).
Sorry, not sure what a take over is??




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 7:37 PM
Start the car with the key then without touching the brake activate the remote start. If it's working correctly the remote start system should take over and you should be able to remove the key with the car staying running.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: pentavolvo
Date Posted: March 18, 2014 at 8:12 PM
If you have wrong wire at brake switch and its seeing 12 volts the whole Time the unit won't respond at all




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 12:28 PM
Ok. Finally was able to try swapping the ground to the kick panel, still nothing. Also double checked my brake wire, only getting 12v when brake pedal is pressed. Also tried the take over method, didn't work. Starting to wonder if I somehow have a defective avital module? ?




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 4:18 PM
FINALLY! I realized that I needed BOTH constant 12v wires hooked up at ignition harness...only had one hooked up the whole time. Dumb rookie mistake! Lol.
However, now it turns over for six seconds an won't fire up. The manual says to check my IGN wires (may be connected backwards).
Any thoughts on this new delima?




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 4:56 PM
Meter each ignition wire using the key
And record the readings. Then do the same with the remote start and make sure they match.

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 5:27 PM
Both IGN wires reading 12v when key is in ON position. With remote start, both read 12v right before starting. Seems to be reading the same on both IGN wires.




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 5:50 PM
An ignition wire will remain powered while starting the car. Acc will drop then come back.

What are you using to bypass the chip key ?

You can try placing a key in the ignition cylinder ( just in not turning it on) and try the remote start. If it works your bypass isn't working (if you have one)

Now that you have the remote start powered correctly you can try the take over and make sure the car stays running. That will verify the rest of your install is good

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 6:07 PM
I've done the take over mode once I got it working. That worked, also I don't have any kind of bypass hooked up. Is there one I need that I'm not aware of?
Now after I tried to change something in the program mode, the remote start isn't working again..?? So aggravating!




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 6:21 PM
You should have a chip in your key. You will need a bypass to simulate the key. I personally like idatalink products.

As far as the remote start not working what is it doing ? What did you change ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 6:33 PM
Is that the fix for the 6 second crank an no start problem? An what exactly is the name of what I need?
Well I was trying to change the unlock from 1 pulse to a 2 pulse setting. Followed the manual but wasn't sure if it even changed it. After that I tried remote start- no go, not even take over mode.




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 6:45 PM
The car won't start without seeing a valid key signal.

You can go to idatalinks web site put in your car and it will show you what works with it.

As far as not starting now I'm not sure what you could have changed to make it not start.

To change the unlock pulses you should be on menu 1 ( 1 horn honk or led flash). Option 5. To get to option 5 you need to press and release the programming button 5 times then once more and hold the button down. (the horn should beep 5 times and the led should flash 5 times) then use the remotes lock and unlock buttons to change options. 1 beep/led flash for one, 2 beeps/led flashes for two and so on.

Recheck all your connections make sure nothing came loose

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 19, 2014 at 8:28 PM
I'll check out that website.
I figured out the no start. I went to menu 2 instead of menu 1 an changed the activation input pulse to 3. That's fixed now.
now I need to figure out the door unlock situation. I have the green unlock wire (-) run to the driver's door, which is why I changed setting to 2 pulse unlock. But right now, with car running, no unlock. ?? Do I have to install a relay?





Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 26, 2014 at 10:39 AM
Still need to figure out my unlock setup. I have the green (-) unlock wire running from the remote start module to my drivers door. In the door I'm running two wires with diodes to the specified factory wires. Nothing happening?? Any advice would be appreciated...




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 27, 2014 at 6:27 AM

A few thoughts.  The Avital 4113 is a one button remote start system.  This is not the ideal system to use on a Toyota / Lexus
vehicle as they turn off their RKE FOB's while the engine is running.  Also remember that the Avital 4113 unlock feature will
only work while the engine is running under a remote start.  Just pressing the Avital button for 1/2 second will not unlock the
doors if the vehicle was not already running from a remote start up. 

Probably just a typo but the Avital 4113 Unlock output wire is Blue, not Green.

Check to ensure that the two diodes have their bands towards the R/S unit.  Verify the correct wires in the door and a quality
solder connection.  It is possible that the R/S's (-) 200mA Unlock output is not "strong" enough to actuate the unlock.  You can
test and verify everything by unplugging the Avitals' 3 Pin Lock harness and briefly jumping the Blue unlock wire to a solid
chassis ground.  With the unlock connections in the Drivers door you might have to program the Avital 4113 to a double unlock
pulse as a single pulse will only unlock the Drivers door due to the vehicles "progressive unlock" feature.

Their appears to be conflicting info on the vehicles lock system.  ReadyRemote ( DEI ) suggests that TechTip 1070 is necessary
for the 1998 while Bulldog and Audiovox don't.  The 1999 LS400 is listed in TechTip 1070 but not the 1998 LS400.
ReadyRemote
Power Unlock     Pink/Green (key unlock) and Gray (lock detection)  TecDoc1070  Driver Door ECU, gray 18 pin plug, pins 5 and 3
Bulldog Security
Power Unlock       GREEN/ BLACK  (-)  NEGATIVE TRIGGER
Audiovox
POWER UNLOCK      GREEN/ BLACK (TYPE B)        @ ECU, INSIDE PASSENGER DOOR 

P.S.  Please ignore the above paragraph.  Somehow I thought it was a LS400 and not the GS400 you mentioned.  posted_image  Thanks to HarryHarris for catching my error.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: March 27, 2014 at 2:52 PM
Finally got to mess with it, an no that wasn't a misprint..I don't know what I was thinking at the time. The unlock wire is the blue wire.
I have it on double pulse setting. I switched wires to correct color, an checked to make sure wire is getting signal.
When I manually unlocked the driver's door, the remote (with car running) would unlock all other doors. With drivers door locked it would do nothing..I also changed the setting on my lexus to unlock all doors with one pulse from factory key remote. Still the same




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 27, 2014 at 3:19 PM

Almost sounds like you're not on the right Gray Lock Detection wire.  Double check this wire & connection. 

Maybe a bad diode on the branch going to the Grey wire?

Might be worth a try with a chassis ground double pulse manually applied directly to the Blue Unlock wire in the (unplugged) Avital lock harness.

Here is a link to another diagram, similar to the DEI 1070 document : https://documents.audiovox.com/710624.pdf



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: October 17, 2014 at 2:14 PM
Ok, it's been a while but I'm having trouble with the remote start again. It was working fine, I unplugged it to move it and after plugging back in..no go! It registered the rpm at idle, and it's getting power from both constant 12v wires, but it's not putting out any voltage to ign, acc or starter outputs. Need some help please....




Posted By: catback
Date Posted: October 18, 2014 at 10:37 AM
Using a transponder bypass? If so which one and how is it wired?

You have reverified your connections and made sure everything is in the right place?

What does it do when you try to remote start it? Does the unit respond to the remote? If not reprogram the remote to the unit.

Have you checked voltages coming in on both 12v inputs?




Posted By: kastenbm
Date Posted: October 21, 2014 at 4:34 PM
OK! FINALLY GOT IT! My neutral safety switch wire for remote start harness was not getting good enough ground.





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