programming viper 5704 problems

Hello all,
I recently installed a new Viper 5704 in my 2002 Chevy Silverado. So far the alarm works just fine although the remote start doesn't work. I'm assuming that it's because the remote start is in manual transmission mode when it needs to be in automatic. I can't, however, program the controller to be in automatic transmission mode. I actually am not able to enter any programming mode at all. I followed the directions in the manual but it still doesn't work. Just for completeness this is what I've done:

Opened door
Turned key to start
Turned engine off (key now at ACC)
Held down control button for about a minute
No chirps from siren

Turned key to start
Turned engine off (key now at OFF)
Held down control button for about a minute
No chirps

Turned key to start
Turned engine off (key to ACC)
Turned key back to ON (engine still off though)
Held down control button for a bout a minute
No chirps

Turned key to start
Held down control button for a minute (just to try something else)
No chirps

Took out 15 Amp fuse for 5704 power supply and left it out for about 5 minutes before replacing it.

Repeated above steps.

The siren never made a sound when I was doing all this so I'm guessing that it never entered the programming mode. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I might be doing wrong?
Thanks in advance.

Are your door triggers connected correctly? Green H2/ should go to ground when doors are opened.
Is the pink H/3 wire connected to ignition 1?
TEST the above.
Is this a refurbished/second hand unit?
If so transmitter/feature programming might be locked out, back to vendor or get your hands on a Bitwriter.

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No it's brand new. The pink wire is connected to Ign 1, but I forgot to mention that I am using the DBALL2 connected by D2D, if that makes any difference. Here are the wires in question with their connections:

5704
H1 Harness
1 Red => 12V constant
2 Black => GND
3 Brown => Siren
4 Wht/Brn => Not Used
5 Wht => Not Used
6 Orange => Not Used

H3 Harness
1 Pink => Ign 1 (Pink)
2 Rd/Wht => Ign 2 (White)
3 Orange => Acc (Brown)
4 Violet => Starter side of Ign (Yellow)
5 Green => Key side of Ign (Yellow)
6 Red => Ign 1 (Pink)
7 Pnk/Wht => Ign 2 (White)
8 Pnk/Blk => Not used
9 RED / Blk => Acc (Brown)

24 - Pin Aux Harness
9 Gray => Hood Switch
13 Blk/Wht => GND (Neutral Safety)

DBALL2
14 Pin Harness
2 Prpl/Yel => Pin 2 of OBDII

12 Pin Harness
1 Blk/Wht => Driver Door Sense (Tan wire of purple BCM connector)
2 Grn/Blk => Not Used (Bulb test wire)
8 Vlt/Grn =>
9 Vlt/Brn => Tied with 8 and connected to small gauge yellow wire coming from ignition switch

The DBALL2 has been programmed with the GM5 firmware.

Major problems with the H3 harness :
H3 Harness
1 Pink => Ign 1 (Pink)
2 Rd/Wht => Ign 2 (White)
3 Orange => Acc (Brown)
4 Violet => Starter side of Ign (Yellow)
5 Green => Key side of Ign (Yellow)
6 Red => Ign 1 (Pink)
7 Pnk/Wht => Ign 2 (White)
8 Pnk/Blk => Not used
9 RED / Blk => Acc (Brown)

Should be :
H3 Harness
1 Pink => Ign 1 (Pink)
2 Rd/Wht => +12V constant  Red or RED / White
3 Orange => Acc1 Orange
4 Violet => Starter side of Ign (Yellow)
5 Green => Key side of Ign (Yellow)
6 Red => +12V constant Red or RED / White
7 Pnk/Wht => Ign 2 (White)   ***Viper default programming is Flex Relay = IGN2
8 Pnk/Blk => Not used
9 RED / Blk => +12V constant Red or RED / White

That leaves the Brown ACC2 wire un-powered during a remote start.  You will need an extra 30/40 Amp SPDT relay to power
this vehicle wire.  The wiring for this extra relay is covered in the Pictorial.

Here is a pictorial on this truck :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~135786~PN~1

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Thanks for your help, I was using the "finding the wires you need guide" and it seemed somewhat confusing regarding the Polarity Feed for the Ignition and Accessory lines. If I connect the Rd/Wht, Red, and Rd/Blk to the Red or Rd/Wht 12 volt lines do I need to do anything special? Like with regard to amperage draw on the lines? Also the SPDT relay you mentioned, does it have to be continuous duty?
Thanks again.

I usually split the remote starters load between the vehicles available +12V supply wires.  With your remote start system, each
+12V input wire is fused.  Basically, the vehicles two +12V constant wires at the ignition switch are capable of supplying all the
power needs of the ignition circuits ( IGN1, IGN2, ACC1, ACC2, Starter ).  The Vipers system itself doesn't draw all that much extra
current.  The siren is minimal, (-) Parking Light control is minimal and the power lock control is a bit more but very brief in duration.
Most installers connect only to those two +12V ignition wires ( as shown in the Pictorial ) however, if you feel that the Vipers total
load would be too much, you can always run a heavy gauge wire ( appropriately fused ) directly to the battery.

Any standard automotive Bosch style 30/40 Amp relay should be suitable for the ACC2 circuit.  They are available at better automotive
stores, RadioShack and even from online stores & EBay.  Get one with the 5 wire harness / socket to make the install even easier. 

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Soldering is fun!

Interesting, that explains the original problem. Of course you couldn't program, you were dumping the constant power to the unit when you turned off the key.
Rule of thumb, the constant H/3 wires red, RED / white and RED / black will draw the same current as the ignition loom wiring, hence it's safe to use the ignition loom constant supply wires.
Having said that, like Kreg I often split them up where convenient*, for instance an adjacent thick battery supply to a fuse box.
*If only to have less bulk in the ignition loom.
The relay, H2/ orange NEG (-) ACC output to relay 85.
Constant fused at 30amps to 86 and 87.
Vehicle's second ACC joined to 30.
To safeguard the Viper aux circuitry H2, connect a diode across 85 and 86, 1N4004, band side to 86.

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Thanks for your help guys. I guess it's time to track down a relay and fire up the soldering iron.

Well I think I straightened out all the wires but it's still not entering programming mode. I did include the relay to power the ACC2 circuit, but instead of connecting one of the powers to pin 87, I connected it to 87a. The instant I plugged in the wire from ACC1 the relay would turn on 87, so my radio would be on even though the truck was off. Is this acceptable? Any other ideas what the problem could be? The truck locks and unlocks just fine so I know the DBALL2 is working. I'm adding a picture that shows my current wiring. Don't laugh. Please.

12 Volts constant to the 87 and 86 pins of the relay. NOT 87a. The H2/22 orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output to the 85 Pin. This will power the Acc 2 of your truck.

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If I connect the +12V to pin 87 then the ACC2 circuit is always on. When the car is off it is getting power via the relay since 86 is +12 and 85 is GND (is that right?), when the car is on it is getting power the normal way. Looking at the diagram shouldn't 86 be grounded? Then pin 87 will only turn on when 85(ACC1) goes to +12.

12v+ Constant to 87 and 86, fused 30amps.
H2/22 orange to 85.
30 to ACC 2.
1N4004 diode across 85 and 86 band towards 86 so you don't fry the H2 circuits.
87a isn't used.

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Pin 85 is grounded through the H2/22 Orange when the remote starter is activated. That's why is shows that wire as a (-).
Do it as described above. It will work.

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Ok I must have wired it wrong then. Can you look at the picture above (actually on the previous page)? The ACC2 line is still being activated when the truck is turned off, I believe because since the Viper H3/2 line (ACC1 out) is being pulled to Ground from the ACC1 line when the truck is off. This is causing pin 85 to be grounded which results in a 12 volt potential between 85 and 86, this ends up connecting 87 (+12) and 30 (ACC2) thus supplying power to ACC2 and, unfortunately, the radio. I'm assuming that since it works for everyone else that there is something wrong with my connections. That is why I originally connected the +12 supply to 87a, the relay would actually activate with the +12 potential between 85 and 86 when the truck is off and then shut off, thus connecting to 87a when pin 86 brought to +12 volts (0V potential between 85 and 86) via the H3/2 connection (and +12 from ACC1). Also the programming still doesn't work, I'm hoping that it is related to the above problem, but I have disconnected the relay from ACC2 to try to just have the Viper power ACC1, but that didn't work either.

Just wire it as I stated, then no problems. Your diagram is wrong!
As others have pointed out, wired that way your ACC 2 will be constantly live.
Forget the theory, I've been installing remote starts since '94 and missing with relays 20 years before that. Just wire as I said.

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Well I connected it the way everybody said but it's still not working right. Pins 87 and 86 are fused 12 volt constant, pin 30 is the ACC2 feed and Pin 85 is spliced into ACC1 from the Viper. It seems that the ACC1 is grounded all the time though, the instant I connect the ACC1 wire to the relay it clicks over and my radio turns on, even if the truck is off and the key is out. I thought I might have a short somewhere so I went back to where the harness with ACC1, ACC2 and the IGN wires tie into the drivers side fuse panel. I unplugged the harness and tested the wires I spliced in. They were all open and the female end of the harness was grounded. Could I have a short somewhere else? If the relay is on all the time it will end up draining the battery, just giving the radio (and whatever else is on the line) the little bit of power it needs.

PIN 85 is connected to the ORANGE wire of the 24 pin connector.
(-) 200mA accessory. This is only used to drive your relay!!
The 24 pin connector. NOT the heavy gauge wire harness.
NOT THE ACC1

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