multiple proximity sensors?

First time poster. I searched a bit and couldn't find anything on this topic, but please let me know if Im mistaken here...

Is it possible to have two, dual zone prox sensors?

I have a Jeep 4dr Wrangler and have had problems with the soft windows getting slashed. At the advise of a local audio shop, I recently had a Viper 5806 w/ prox sensor installed.

My problem is the location of the prox sensor does not pick up the rear window and the front seats at the same time. Is it possible to "daisy chain" two prox sensors? I'm thinking one for the passenger cabin and another for the trunk area?

Thanks!

Yes but you wire them in parallel and diode separate the blues and greens.

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Test before boxing up.

Thanks Howie!

So, the alarm triggers will still look the same to the viper Brain, but either prox sensor can send the trigger... Does this wiring diagram look about right? Assume 12 volt diodes, 2-5 amps would suffice?

Sorry about my limited understanding, self teaching myself alot of the electrical stuff in my vehicle!

No problems, diagram correct BUT:-
1)Diodes are the wrong way round, you should be passing a NEG signal to the 5806.
2)You only need 1 amp diodes, 1N4004 are my default rating.

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Test before boxing up.

Good stuff...

I've ordered a second sensor and will be stopping by Radio Shack to pick up a handful of diodes. Thanks again!

Just some follow-up questions related to the subject of multiple proximity sensors.

Am I right in assuming that in the situation with multiple prox. sensors, you connect and adjust them one at a time? Will the brain be able to cope with the power required by 3 sensors?

I'm installing an Intelliguard 770 in a 2010 Sprinter (the LWB-version). I've read a couple of times that Howie advices not to install these proximity sensors in the roof, since that would cause a lot of false triggers.

In order to solve this issue, I've thought of installing one prox. sensor below the wind screen / underneath the dashboard cover. Covering the hood and the front seats. And I'm installing cabinets in the rear, so that provides some room to install prox. sensors in a hidden place at a lower position. Will it work if I take 2 of those and install one on the left and one on the right? Covering the slide door and the rear doors.

Now in the rear there's no glass, so I assume that the outside perimeter will not be covered with a burglar sniffing around. That is find for me. However, the cabinets will comprise of aluminium profiles, to which I will attach the prox-sensors. Will this trap the signal also, preventing reliable detection inside the cabin also, or will this probably work out ok?

Absolutely no point in the rear sensors the door switches will provide all the security you need. The fastest way to install the 770 which is a rather obsolete unit is to add a DB-ALL2 flashed to that vehicle and hardwired (W2W) to the 770.
Siren, POS, NEG, CAN Hi and Lo and use a glass break in the front. That set up will also give window close.
1 hour tops for the install.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks a lot for your reply. I haven't made my considerations clear as to why I went this route, but perhaps they were inspired by my inexperience anyway.

By obsolete, do you mean it's just a lot of fiddling to install in comparison to the more modern alarms, or also that it's become insecure because the canbus alarms provide better protection?

I hear a lot of stories about canbus being hacked and criminals getting away with your car through hacking the obd-port, in particular but not limited to Volkswagens, BMW's and Mercs. That's why I thought it would be a good option to have an alarm that is completely separated from the intelligence of the car. That way at least the standard tricks that apply to any other car of that make and year do not work. That's why I opted to go for a hard-wired alarm instead of a canbus module, but as I said, this is just my gut-feeling and not really based on hard facts. Perhaps you can enlighten me regarding this item.

As for the sensors I think you are right. Although I do have windows in the middle section as well. Will I be able to adjust the sensitivity of the glass break sensor in such a way that it will detect breakage in this area, without increasing the risk of false alarms too much?

First CAN connection or not, yours is the hardest vehicle to steal, they try and steal the catalytic convertor from underneath.
A more modern unit such as the Viper/Clifford 33 series will give you a better result with a third of the effort.
With rear side glass I would suggest a second glass break device.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.