2006 toyota tundra headlight / door issue

Hello all,

I recently installed a Viper 5706V in my 2006 Toyota Tundra Double Cab and everything seems to be working properly, but I have noticed an interesting "quirk" and wanted to see if anyone had ideas on how to work around it.

I generally leave my headlights on, because the truck will automatically shut them off when I turn off the ignition. I like this feature because I don't have to remember to mess with them and have been doing it like this for years. However, if I do this and try to arm the system, it will go into Door Alarm within less than a minute of arming. The system does not see the doors as being open at arming time, just something seems to be triggering the door circuit shortly after arming. I am using the (-) door inputs and have all 4 connected with diodes as I believe it should have been done.

I know if I simply start to always turn off the headlight switch, it will fix the problem, but if anyone has some experience with this, I would like to explore some more "creative" options. I consider myself fairly skilled with relay logic and electronics, but I am not entirely sure where to start on this one. I appreciate and will entertain any suggestions.

With headlights on the door circuit is probably activated as part of the shutdown procedure.
Either use the green H2/ door trigger input connected to the domelight assuming that shuts down as soon as vehicle is locked (delay on when closing vehicle doors without locking)or go to programming menu 2 convenience, feature 4 door trigger error chirp, option 2 - OFF.

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Test before boxing up.

Are you sure it is the door trigger? If you were to disconnect the door triggers are you sure it still wouldn't activate the alarm?
If this for sure is the case, the guess is that something is backfeeding from the BCM at that time and triggering it. You need to wire your doors similar to the older mustangs as they had the same problem(tho it was caused from backfeed when the BCM fell asleep). To do this you cut each door trigger and add a diode inline, so that current will only flow to the BCM not back.
The easier way would be to simply use the negative light wire at the ring of the ignition key cylinder for door trigger. This triggers from all doors with one simple connection.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks guys for the quick responses. After digging into the situation a little more, I have determined that it certainly is being caused by the RR and LR Door Switches. After peeling the onion back further, I realized that they also would not cause the alarm to activate if opened with the headlights off. When I originally connected to the wires during installation, I tested them with the connectors unplugged, so I didn't notice I was not getting a good signal from them when closed. If I measure from +12V to the R/W Wire on either, I get about 10V with the door closed and 12V with the door open. The RF and LF Doors switch completely from 0V to 12V. If I disconnect the RR and LR doors from the input, the alarm no longer cares if the headlights are on and functions as expected either way.

I imagine the door panel lights could be the reason (only present at the rear doors) or some backfeed from the BCU also is possible but strange on only the rear doors. Here is the wiring schematic directly from the FSM: -- The Red Boxes indicate where I have tied into the circuit.

And I do hear what you are saying and realize that I can tie into the keyring or some other illumination source instead of the door switches. The burglar alarm installer in me likes the door switches better, but it it isn't going to work, I will certainly consider another route.

Thanks Again,

Mike

Dome light, never had any problems with that set-up. NEVER gone to individual door wires on Toyotas in recent years.

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Test before boxing up.