keyless entry has me beat

Hi, I looked through to vehicle guides on the site but nothing seems to match my wire colours, maybe because my car is for the Aus market and is wired differently, I am trying to install a basic Keyless entry system into my 1995 Subaru Liberty(Legacy) and it has me beat, I have aquired the factory actuator and harness for the drivers door and is all in , fitted and working, the car runs a very basic one (white)wire setup that is either earthed or not earthed for LOCK and UNLOCK. I can get it to either lock, or unlock with my remote but I cannot for life of me figure out how to get it to do both with the system I have. Is anybody able to please tell me what wires need to be connected according to the diagrams below before I give up completely.
Thanks in advance.

KEYLESS UNIT DIAGRAM


My factory door wiring diagram

Not sure with your diagrams / OZ Subie, but does the Knob-Lock Switch physically move / change position when the doors Lock or
Unlock?  Meaning that it is not just a momentary pulse that cause the door locks to switch to the other state.  If it functions
like a door lock knob ( plunger ), then a steady open on the "W" wire is one position ( Unlock, perhaps ) and a steady
Ground on the "W" wire is the other position ( Lock, possibly ).   Once we know how this knob functions, we can supply wiring.

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Soldering is fun!

Hi thanks for the reply, Below is the photo of the one I removed from the drivers door,it is just the standard door lock latch on the drivers door that mechanically moves the switch position down inside the door, the one I replaced it with is exactly the same only it has the electric actuator on it. When you move the door lock it stays in the position you put it in. If I earth the white wire, the doors unlock, and if I take the earth off, they lock again.

DOOR LOCK SWITCH


OOOR LOCK MECHANISM

It's a one wire ground (earth) and open circuit, not as the OP described.
Show us what the individual lock wires in your first diagram do, I'll show you how to wire it.
Orange, white, yellow/ORANGE / black, WHITE/ black and yellow/black.
Functions of the above should be listed.Normally closed, normally open etc.

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Test before boxing up.

Thats it as far as the wiring diagram goes sorry, "made in China" keyless entry unit and thats all it came with just to make it a little more confusing. Is there some way I can test them with the trusty multimeter lol

Ok, here's a test procedure, test the unit run yellow and yellow black to ground, orange and ORANGE / black should then be continuous. A.K.A. NC
The white and white black should have no connection, A.K.A. NO
If so, proceed as follows.
1) Locks on grounding vehicle WHITE
Orange not connected.
White to vehicle white.
Yellow to ground (earth).
Cut vehicle lock wire.
ORANGE / black to car side.
WHITE/ black not connected.
Yellow/black to door side.
2) Unlocks on grounding vehicle WHITE
Orange to vehicle side of cut vehicle white wire.
White not used.
Yellow to door side side of cut vehicle white.
ORANGE / black not connected.
WHITE/ black to vehicle white wire.
Yellow/black to ground.




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Test before boxing up.

Thank you so much for your help, the day is almost done here, I have printed it out and will give that a try first up tomorrow morning and will post back with the results.

Thanks again

That's OK, just finishing breakfast here in the UK, another miserable wet day.

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Test before boxing up.

As usual I may only be adding confusion here, but isn't this the type of lock system that it is easier to add a new actuator to the drivers door? You would have your relays controlling the new actuator that when it moved the drivers door lock, the car would then take over for the rest of the doors?

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To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Not normally, I'd have just looked at the circuit diagram and tested the white wire at the timer without opening up the door. I'm being a smartarse because I'd already worked on a similar vintage UK model early 90s and I remembered it because that was the first time I came across and worked out the method.

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Test before boxing up.

I am just about ready to admit defeat, I cant seem to get any wire to remain open or closed, all they seem to want to do is send a pulse for some reason.

I think my best option is going to be setting it up using the positive and negative trigger system, I can get it to attempt to trigger the actuator in the door doing this, but it doesn’t have enough power to work it so setting it up with relays should work I think, so now to try and find a wiring diagram showing how to do that and I think it will might work as intended.

It says it for a Nissan but would this relay setup work for me?

If so, I understand the diagram but am a little confused by the two orange wires and what precisely they are referring to.

Yes, if your dock lock system locks/unlocks just as you described in your first post of this topic, that should work.

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Thanks for your help everyone but unfortunately I am sad to say that I think I have bitten off more than I can chew, I feel like I was so close but to save my last remaining sanity, I am over it, and will just have to resort to doing it the old fashioned way and using the key. I honestly never thought it would be so confusing to simply get an earth wire to connect or disconnect remotely lol.

I tried one more thing, I have an old 91 Model Liberty here that had aftermarket keyless entry/alarm fitted at some stage so I pulled the cover off the dash to see what I could see, I dont know if you would call it cheating or not but they simply used the "positive and Negative" trigger setup, cut the two wires to the actuator in the drivers door and hard wired the keyless unit to trigger that one actuator, when it is trigger this in turn triggers the rest, tried it on my system and it works, I tried that right from the start, but I didnt cut the wires first si I guess the unit was trying to supply enough power to trigger them all and it just couldnt do it.

Just one more stupid question, my unit also has a wire marked as "siren", that pulses a + bust when the remote is activated, does this get hooked to the wire going to the horn button on my steering wheel, or do I have to track down the horn relay and tap into that?

Shame about the locking but the siren query, no 99% certain your horn at the steering column is NEG (you normally wouldn't need to go to the relay).
The output won't be enough to drive your horn directly.
Incidentally the relay shown is what your unit should do without an external relay, there's no such thing as cheap stuff. It just doesn't work properly.

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Test before boxing up.