alarm on a 2014 crv

I will be installing the Scyteck 777C two-way alarm system in my wife's CRV and would like assistance with the following:

i) anyone know where i can find photos depicting wire locations for the alarm hookup.

ii) The crv has a wire where a single negative pulse will unlock the doors while the factory alarm disarm wire from the CRV requires a double negative pulse. The alarm comes with negative pulse wire for unlocking the door which can be programmed to do a double negative pulse. The alarm however does not come with either a factory alarm arm and disarm wires output. I got a tip to piggyback the alarm wire connection to the CRV door lock wire (a single negative pulse to) with a diode to the factory arm wire from the CRV. But i'm stuck on how to handle the double negative pulse that is needed to disarm the crv factory alarm. any help will be appreciated.
Mahalo.

-------------
CJ

On the CRV the easiest way is to not use the unlock wire at all. Instead, use the key cylinder unlock wire(which is brown in the drivers door harness listed as disarm). Connect your alarms unlock wire here and set the alarm for double pulse. This will both disarm and unlock for you with no diodes needed.


-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

You can do your idea with the two diodes, or Mike's idea with the double pulse.

(Note: Since you're installing only an alarm, this is not so complicated. If you were to install a remote starter, you'd also want to pulse the disarm wire before the remote starter starts the engine.)

Option 1: Split your alarm's unlock output with two diodes. The output from one diode goes to the brown disarm wire. The output from the other diode goes to the grey unlock wire.

Option 2: Without any diodes, connect your alarm's unlock output directly to the brown disarm wire, and program the alarm for double pulse unlock.

Both methods have advantages----#2 is easy and requires no extra parts, but there will be a slight delay while the alarm makes its second pulse. #1 requires slightly more work, but the system will immediately unlock all doors on the first pulse from the alarm.

PS: Are you just adding the alarm for the pager and shock sensor? Does your CRV already have a factory alarm? The base model (is it called the LX now?) doesn't have a factory alarm. The brown disarm wire will still be present in the car, but you don't need it----just go straight to the gray wire with a single pulse if you have no factory alarm.

Mahalo for the reply. It is my understanding that the 2014 LX model comes with a factory alarm. The horn will sound when any any of the doors or rear trunk is opened.
Now a follow up question:

The Scyteck Astra 777c alarm has this panic feature in which if I hold the armed button for at least 5 seconds, it will trigger the siren and open the doors. Don't really care for this feature if I accidentally trigger it off remotely and forgetting that I just unlock the door. This is a question for someone who owns this model, with #2 option, will the door open when the alarm is in panic mode? The other question for this person, will the door relock if I don't enter the car? I guess I can call the manufacturer.



-------------
CJ

Took a awhile to figure out where I would install the Scytek siren under the hood since there's not much free space to consider. Ended up placing it towards the fender to the left side of the battery.

Since my wife's car is an LX version, I had to install a pin switch for the hood. Now when i ran the wires for the pin switch and siren, I could not get it through the existing wire harness that protrudes through the firewall right above the gas pedal. The existing bundled wires don't allow me to string through my three wires. Will probably to drill a hole right through the fire wall.

Tried to locate the ignition wire and constant 12 volt near the key switch but I couldn't figure out how to remove the steering wheel column cover. There is no manual yet for the 2014 and I couldn't find anything blow up diagram or instructions on how to remove this item. So I called it a day. If someone has the instructions to remove the column, could you kindly share this with me? Appreciated much.

CJ

P.S. if someone has a more recent photo locations of the door trigger and door lock wires on the 2014 or 2013 crv, could you please share them with me. I only can find the 2012 wires diagrams on the net.

-------------
CJ

cj10,

Firewall: If memory serves, I think I ran a tachometer wire (for a remote starter) through a small, unused, black rubbery/plasticky grommet just above and to the right of the gas pedal.

(That point of view is from the interior of the car. Look at the gas pedal, look up toward the headliner, and look to the right toward the passenger side of the car. At least that's how I think I remember it.)

Steering column:

Sorry I don't have any pictures.

First, manipulate the telescoping steering column so it's pulled all the way out, as close to the driver's chest as possible.

Remove one screw on the underside of the steering column cover; you can see it by just laying down, looking upward. There are three holes; two are just "dead end" plastic holes with nothing in them, while the third has a silver screw in it.

Next, get yourself some kind of tool you can use for prying that won't scratch stuff. I use a small plastic door-panel removal tool. You can just use a regular flat-head screwdriver if you're patient and careful, or consider wrapping the head of the screwdriver in tape.

TIP: Cold plastic panels are brittle. I'd imagine it's not very cold where you are, but regardless, make sure the interior is at least fairly warm. If it's chilly outside, run the car with the heater on for a little while.

So anyway, start the engine so you have the power steering working.

Sitting in the driver's seat, turn the steering wheel a little to one side, and the part of the column that was concealed while the steering wheel was straight....take a close look there. You can actually see a little notch made to insert a pry tool. Just pry up there. Now turn the steering wheel the other way, and pry that side up too.

So now you've got the top half the the column shroud pried up and loose. (It'll still be flapping back and forth on a piece of vinyl; just leave it like that.) So now remove the two screws you exposed by the prying, and pull the bottom half of the column shroud down and away.

TIP: It's so hard to explain this in text, but as you're pulling the bottom half down, keep your eyes around the ignition keyhole. If you'll look closely, you'll see that the column cover has a sort of slot in it, and that lines up with a tab that's part of the steering column. (There's another on the left side too.) When putting the car back together, make sure you line these slots up correctly.

ALTERNATIVE TO STEERING COLUMN: I think there's another place you can go, especially since you're doing alarm only and not a remote starter.

On the left of the driver's dash, if my memory is correct, there's a gray "woodgrain" panel with a green ECO button on it, and below that, two regular black buttons.

You can pull the woodgrain/eco panel off with your bare hands, and unplug the switch.

Then, the panel below, with the two black buttons, will pull off with your hands as well.

With those panels off, you have a full view of the underdash fuse box. At the top, is a large plug without about five very thick wires. If you test ALL of them, I'm pretty confident you'll find constant and ignition right there.

I do use the existing grommet above the pedal. Take a metal coat hanger and straighten it out, you can poke it thru from the inside out. I use an electricians fish tape with a point on the end but the hanger works well. Stay close to the factory wires for the thinnest part of the rubber. Tape your wires to it and pull them thru.

-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Thanks for all of the feedback which is one of the very reasons I keep on coming back to the 12volt forums for my projects. Based on the responses, I will try to fish the siren wires (and my installed hood trigger wire) through the existing grommet above the gas pedal. Will also look for the constant 12 volt wire and ignition wire near the Econ button.

I forgot to ask assistance on the following. I am having a hard time taking out the driver kick panel. Can't figure why I can pull out the panel out. The top visible screw head has a tab like which I tried to pull or turn but it won't budge. Need help.

Also want to install the alarm antennae near the rear view mirror. Anyone tucked the antennae near the edge of the pilar cover and above headliner near the ceiling? I am leery about removing the pillar cover because of the air bag. Thanks.

-------------
CJ

I should also add to my recent posting that I was happy to see that i can tap into the constant 12 volt wire and ignition wire on top of the fuse box. Anyone knows if I can also tap in either a positive or negative wire for the parking lights in this area and if so which is this wire? If I can avoid going to the steering wheel column the better. Mahalo.

-------------
CJ

Hey cj10, that's good that the information is helping; sounds like your installation is coming along well.

KICK PANEL: Are you trying to hook up locks? I've never removed the kick panel on one of these cars before, and I don't think you need to.

Apply the foot-operated parking brake as hard as you can. Now look at the top edge of the kick panel. The wires you want are running just along the top edge of the panel, wrapped in this kind of black sleeving, and it's held on by being wrapped in black electrical tape in one spot.

Either unwrap or cut the electrical tape, and then you can pull away enough of the sleeving to see the wires.

After you've done this, I often find it easier to release the parking brake pedal at this point, and conduct your testing and splicing of the wires by reach behind the parking brake pedal.

PARKING LIGHTS: Information I have says it's positive, red wire, dash fuse box, 44 pin plug (B), pin 29. (A little more explanation: If you look closely at the fuse box, each connector is labeled---A,B,C, and so on. So you're looking for the connector with the B on it.)

Like Chris, I never remove the kick panel. I do however like to unplug the door harness to make my connections but it isn't needed as they are just at the top of the panel. You can get your hand in the hole where the harness goes to the door and unplug them, 2 plugs.
The headliner will pull down enough to tuck the wire, and the A pillar will pop out about an inch. Just pull on the top and it will be fine. Plug B is the top plug of the 3 horizontal plugs in the panel. Unplug it and pull it down, it's the only red wire there. This plug also contains the rear hatch pin wire and all the door triggers.


-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Hey Mike,
Sorry if it's obvious but does the horizontal plug looks like a long white one (spans the entire fuse panel width)? Wish I could include a photo but I'm not a premium member yet. There are three of these and I can see a red wire immediately from the bottom one not the top. Tried to look for a plug label but couldn't see any markings. Thanks.

Also to all, i pulled a 2013 crv wiring listing from directwire and it specifies only a green wire on plug b, pin 40 for the door trigger. Noticed on the diagram I see on this forum there is a list of four wires. Can anyone confirm only a single wire for my wife's vehicle as well?

-------------
CJ

To all,
Still want to remove the kick panel to access the light blue wire leading to the back of the vehicle in that triggers the trunk/hatch release. As mentioned in my earlier post, I can't figure out how how to loosen the upper right bolt/screw (and the bottom left for that matter) without breaking anything.
Mahalo.

-------------
CJ

Yes it is the top plug of the 3. Unplug it and pull it down.
I just looked at the 2013 listing and I don't see a single wire connection. I use the dome light wire(purple) for all doors myself.
As for the kickpanel, the plastic screw near the firewall just unscrews but it can be a little tricky. Remove the threshold next to the seat first, then pull the rubber seal away from it. You can then get in the crack and pop the bottom of the panel out.

-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Mike
I assume the 2013 wire diagram you looked at specify the same four wires as the 2012 crv pics at the driver side kickpanel you've shown in your previous posting?

As for this purple wire, is it at this 44 plug (b). Could I also run my dome supervision light wire from my alarm with a diode and relay? Thx.

-------------
CJ

I want to thank everyone who has provided assistance with my alarm installation on my wife's 2014 CRV, LX. Personally, I think this is the best and great looking installation I've done to date. I took my time patiently waiting for anyone's response to my many questions. Sorry if I should tried to figure out on my own on some of the questions I had but the car is still new, and I didn't want to upset my wife nor did I want to damage any panels or cut into the wrong wire.

In any event, here's what I found:
1) The 2012 CRV wiring diagram applies to the 2014 model. There was an error on the Directwire diagram for the 2013 model which specified a single green wire from the plug(b), 44 pin for the door trigger.
2) The kick panel is very difficult to remove because of the top pin that is closer to the firewall. Just wedge a screw driver in between the panel and the frame and you will be able to free this stubborn pin.
3) Don't need to access the steering column for non-remote start installation. You can access the ignition and constant 12 volt wires from above the fuse box.

4) You can tap into the parking lights from the same wire harness, i.e., red wire, from plug (b), if you can sent a positive parking light output from your alarm unit.

Chow.
CJ

-------------
CJ