2003 ford taurus, viper 5706v

2003 Ford Taurus, No Factory Alarm* (Must test) or Keyless Entry.

Viper 5706V
Xpresskit DBALL2
VSM50BT
Bulldog FD-1 Remote Start T-Harness

Modules:
500T (2), 506T, 507M, 508D (2), 513T (2?), 520T, 529U, 535T (2), 2 sirens.

I have a few questions and also just want to double check my connections and looking for general advice before I get started.

How do I correctly wire multiple sensors to a single zone? I've read the DEI makes a Y adapter for this, can anyone confirm this? What is the part number?
I'm willing to do it manually as well but it seems it would be much cleaner to use an adapter for at least one of the sensor ports.

A few connection questions, looking over the wiring diagrams, which I have created a spreadsheet for:

Parking Light Isolation Wire?

Flex Relays Inputs/Outputs, H2/1, H2/10, H2/18.
Pictorials don't really mention much of H2, does this vehicle need relays for the remote start at all? Should I depin these wires? If I do need relays, what should they be wired like? I haven't done a 12volt install since high school, please be gentle.

What functions/applications could I use H2/9 & H2/22 for?

Using the two wiring guides for my vehicle, located
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=41851
and
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=54255

Both have slight variations, also marked with * on the spreadsheet. Any recommendations or preferences on these?
The defogger I decided to use the (-) wire, as according to further in the pictorial forum for this vehicle, located here
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135035&KW=ford+taurus

Spreadsheet

5706V Install Guide

The rest I believe I do understand how it should go. I plan to do a pictorial as well of this install and a complete audio overhaul of this vehicle as well. I am very excited!!! Thanks for any and all help!!!!

Just one comment having that many sensors will drive you mad.  You will spend more time adjusting those sensors and still be running out in the middle of the night from false alarming, also the 5706 won't sustain the load from that many sensors, you will need to relay some or burn out the R/S sensor circuitry.

A 508d well placed centre roof (if no moon roof) and the supplied shock sensor are all that's required.

Extra, good quality locking wheel nuts are a  cheaper alternative to the 507m.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I did plan to relay most of the sensors and I know it seems like overkill, which it just might be, but my profession and personality will allow no less. I also am highly against a 508D as it is an impracticality of both. You are quite the credentialed expert on this forum though, does my wiring otherwise look correct? Thanks for the input though, I really hate to sound so dissenting.

On a side note, one of the extra shock sensors is recycled from an old install and a totaled car as well, would have no use for it otherwise.

Test your cars Trunk Release wire.  If it is Grey/Red, it should test as a (+) and you will need a relay to convert the Vipers (-) Trunk Release
to the (+) signal the vehicle needs.

Don't forget to program the Vipers' Flex relay output to ACC2 for this connection :  H3/4 (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT   BLACK/ GREEN

Verify the Vipers' Parking Light jumper/fuse position is set to (+) for this connection :   H1/5 PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT      BROWN (+)
The Viper H1/4 Parking Light isolation wire is not needed / used for your application.

If you are going with a D2D connection between the Viper and the DB-ALL2, H2/9 (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT is not used.

H2/22 (-) ACC Output is not needed for your vehicle.  The Flex Relay is handling the cars ACC2 ignition circuit.

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Soldering is fun!

Is there any advantage d2d? Other than easier connecting?

No, not with your application ( transponder bypass function only ), and some possible disadvantages...

W2W always works. 

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Soldering is fun!

What are the disadvantages, just out of curosity?

Good question.

In your specific application, the disadvantages are minimal.   There really isn't too much data going back and forth between
the DB-ALL2 and the Viper.  It's basically only one way and only the GWR signal for the transponder bypass function turn-on.
Possible problems are a bad harness, bad DB-ALL2 D2D port, bad Viper D2D port and perhaps the Viper D2D port issue
detailed in this post :  https://www.12voltdata.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=8315

The difference between D2D and W2W for your install is the D2D harness or three wire connections.   As such, going D2D
should work OK.  Problems usually arise as the amount of D2D data signals increases, especially the signals from the
DB-ALL back to the Viper.  Things like Tach and Brake sometimes don't work or quit working a few months down the
road.  The biggest issue is troubleshooting D2D.  With W2W, you can just tap a DMM into the signal wire and see what's
going on.  With D2D data, you can't do that so your options are limited.  Replace the D2D harness, the Viper, the bypass module,
or try a re-flash / re-program of the bypass. 

While D2D is getting better, I would still rather go W2W and hardwire all the inter-connections.  I am not afraid to solder,
I am not trying to get every install done in 90 minutes and I would prefer to see my customers return when they get their
next vehicle.

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Soldering is fun!

Did you wire the domelight as (-) or (+)?

Bump. Also, what should the wiring for H2/1, H2/10, and H2/18 look like? I am otherwise nearly ready to get started on this install.

I have come to the conclusion after further reading that none of those above connections (H2/1, H2/10, and H2/18) will be needed either, could someone please verify that is correct?

Which leads me into my next question, related to the 535T. Is this vehicle's window system considered to be a 'direct wire' or a 'factory control module'? Page 13 says 'many ford vehicles' have factory control modules.

535T Install Guide

I also uploaded a copy to the downloads section for anyone who wishes to reference it.

My spreadsheet has been significantly corrected, updated, and formatted. I've got the 535T all worked out. I have a rough draft of a table of zones that I think is pretty good, could someone look? How many sensors can I safely run off a single relay? I also checked and photographed my 26 Pin GEM Harness, and I don't see a TAN/LT. GREEN hood pin wire. My hood has no light, and I've been told some models may, can anyone confirm this? I don't see how/why it would be built in as OEM otherwise on a car like this.