only works connected directly? pics

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=136665
Printed Date: May 23, 2024 at 2:53 AM

Topic: only works connected directly? pics

Posted By: aviator172
Subject: only works connected directly? pics
Date Posted: May 20, 2014 at 8:57 AM

I could use some help.

I have a Cigarette Lighter Socket multiplier. It has 3 ports.
posted_image

It has a quick disconnect so that I can disconnect it when doing dash work.
posted_image

It is securely grounded to a frame post and tested for ground.
posted_image

I have it wired directly to the car's battery and there is an inline 10A fuse that is verified good. (I tried several)

I can read 12.7 volts at the car's battery with a VOM.
And, I get the same 12v at the connector.

For reasons that are baffling me, it will ONLY work when connected DIRECTLY to the battery. Should I test the RESISTANCE of the wires?

Replies:

Posted By: aviator172
Date Posted: May 20, 2014 at 8:59 AM

1999 Dodge Caravan (is that even important in this case?)

Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: May 20, 2014 at 10:48 AM

No - because the resistance of the wires is obviously good since it works (off 12V).

What other 12V supply are you connecting to?
If it's the cig socket, do you require ACC (or IGN) for that, or is it a crappy cig socket connection?

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 20, 2014 at 8:24 PM

Yes it is important. That is probably not a ground. Ground it to the actual chassis of the vehicle. Dodge is famous for having massive pieces of metal under the dash that are not grounded.

How did you test the ground? Was there a load present?

Posted By: i am an idiot
Date Posted: May 20, 2014 at 8:31 PM

With something plugged into one of the ports, use your volt meter and check the voltage between your ground connection and a known good ground.

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 21, 2014 at 1:36 AM

X 2 with Mr. I use a known ground point or any bolt (clean off the paintwork) adjacent to a factory ground point.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: May 21, 2014 at 4:05 AM

I agree.
To clarify, I interpreted "Should I test the RESISTANCE of the wires?" as meaning the Multiplier's wires. posted_image

Posted By: aviator172
Date Posted: May 23, 2014 at 7:57 AM

--- Resolved --

There was another fuse holder under the hood.
So this device has two inline fuses. One is ATO and the other cylindrical glass type.

I had not checked the ATO fuse.

The fuse holder had some scale(?) type oxidation and the connectors were loose. I pinched the connectors tighter and used NOLOX on them and that resolved the issue.

So it was reading 12v but was not able to carry sufficient current to power the device.

Thanks for all the replies. It is appreciated!

Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: May 23, 2014 at 11:32 AM

Glad it was resolved.
Glad too I was on the right track - ie, is there 12V to the socket etc?
(As to those other amateurs like IAAI and Howie - oh well, maybe one day... posted_image

. )

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: May 23, 2014 at 11:41 AM

Thanks pal an important reason to keep a meter with a load tester resistance how about an AVO Mk4 for testing CAN wires....

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.