5704v to dball2 d2d and no remote start

I want to install a Viper 5704v alarm on my Audi A4, B8 2012, directly to the CAN (in D2D mode only) but with NO remote start.
I have purchased the following items:
1.     Viper 5704v Full Feature Car Alarm with Remote Start and 2-way Pager
2.     Xpres DBALL2 Kit Databus all Interface Modul
3.     Directed Electronics Inc XKLOADER2 XpressKit
4.     New-DIRECTED ELECTRONICS 508D DUAL-ZONE RADAR SENSOR - DEI508D
5.     Directed Electronics 506t Glass Break Sensor
6.     Install Essentials 507M Tilt Sensor
7.     Install Essentials 620V Viper Electro Luminescent Indicator
I have already flashed the DBALL2 for Audi A4, 2012 (I`ve checked all available options in “Standard install” configuration) but I have difficulties in understanding how to wire the Viper 5704v with DBALL2 and with the CAN using the D2D mode only.
I would be grateful if someone can help me.

Got to be one of the easiest installs going, I do 4-6 VW/Audi/Seat per month and they don't come any simpler especially without remote start.
DEI have actually got the DB-ALL2 spot on with VAG cars, at least here in Europe.
On the main brain you need to connect H1 all except the white and BROWN / white cut off and tape away.
Orange and a spur fused 1 amp from your red to the 620V.
Red to any thick plain red at the dash side fuse box.
Black with an 6mm (10mm spanner size)bolt to any pre-tapped hole on the cross-brace.
Brown to the red of siren, siren black to the black mentioned above.
On the brain all you need is H1 no H2 except the blue instant trigger wire,, lock wires or plug in on-off switch.
On H3 use ignition in out (pink) and connect to grey black on the DB-ALL2 red plug.
If you want starter cut use the green and violet on H3 to the ignition or starter switch and cut and join green to switch and violet to starter what ever wire goes hot on start for under one second as the engine fires up.
You can discard the white plug with its thick leads, 18ga wire and crimp terminals are all you need.
Shock sensor to mux 1, 508d to mux 2.
Tilt sensor; red to your 12V+ supply, orange to your orange mentioned above, at the Y join diode separate, bands of diodes (1N4004) towards the alarm brain.
Glass break joins in with shock sensor but again diode the green and blue, diode bands away from the alarm brain.
Test all these sensors separately, start with the prox then glass, shock and tilt, frankly with the glass and tilt I wouldn't bother with the shock.
I also cut the two loops to reduce sensitivity and false alarms. Frankly if you don't follow my last paragraph advice you will be plagued with false alarms.
Last plug in blue plug to DB-ALL2 I twist the CAN pair, P.S. those CAN wires are also at the body control under dash and ignition leads.
Last finger on DB-ALL2 push switch,plug in the white DB-ALL2 plug and
release on Orange. Follow key programming to let your factory remote control the alarm BUT I wouldn't in case someone who shouldn't gets hold of or copies your factory key fob.
Last comment use Internet Explorer not Chrome to down load the Xpress kit software and for your flash programming, it won't work on Chrome.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hey, why am I even bothering? The Romanian distributor is where they developed the DB-ALL2 for Europe, not Canada.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you!
I really appreciate your help.

18ga wire = c .0.75mm.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Before starting please confirm if I am right with the wiring.
Here is what I have understood from you.
I have some other questions regarding the key programming but I will ask you letter if may allowed.
Thank you once again for your help.

VIPER 5704V

MAIN BRAIN, 6 PIN CONNECTOR
H1/1 - RED (+)12 DC CONSTANT INPUT @ CONSTANT 12 VOLT
H1/2 - BLACK (-)CHASSIS GROUND @ GROUND
H1/3 - BROWN (+)SIREN OUTPUT @ RED POSITIVE WIRE OF SIREN (Black wire of Siren @ Ground)
H1/4 - WHITE/ BROWN PARK LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87A OF ONBOARD RELAY – NOT USED
H1/5 - WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT – NOT USED
H1/6 - ORANGE (-) 500MA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTUT @ ORANGE (-) TILT SENSOR AND BLACK (-) LUMINISCENT INDICATOR (with 2 diodes (1N4004) – Y join towards the alarm brain)

AUX/SHUTDOWN/TRIGGER BRAIN 24 PIN CONNECTOR
H2/1 - PINK/WHITE(-) 200MA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/2 - BLACK WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT – NOT USED
H2/3 - BLUE/ WHITE (-) 200MA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/4 - GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200MA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/5 - RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/6 - GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT NORM OPEN NORM CLOSE – NOT USED
H2/7 - BLACK YELLOW (-) 200MA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/8 - BROWN / BLACK (-) 200MA HORN HONK OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/9 - DARK BLUE (-) 200MA STATUS OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/10 - PINK (-) 200MA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/11 - WHITE BLACK (-) 200MA AUX 3 OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/12 - VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT – NOT USED
H2/13 - WHITE VIOLET (-) 200MA AUX 1 OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/14 - VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200MA AUX 2 OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/15 - ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200MA AUX 4 OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/16 - BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT – NOT USED
H2/17 - GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT NORM OPEN NORM CLOSE – NOT USED
H2/18 - VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200MA STARTER OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/19 - BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C or N/O) @ BLUE TILT SENSOR
H2/20 - GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT - NOT USED
H2/21 - WHITE BLUE (-) REMOTE START/TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT - NOT USED
H2/22 - ORANGE (-) 200MA ACCESSORY OUTPUT - NOT USED
H2/23 - VIOLET WHITE TACH INPUT - NUMBER 4 INJECTOR - NOT USED
H2/24 - GREEN WHITE (-) 200MA OEM ARM OUTPUT - NOT USED

REMOTE START, 10 PIN HEAVY GAUGE CONNECTOR
H3/1 - PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT @ PIN 7 GRAY/BLACK (+) IGNITION OUTPUT (DB-ALL2)
H3/2 - RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 30A IGNITION 2/ FLEX REPLAY INPUT 87 - NOT USED
H3/3 - ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT - NOT USED
H3/4 - VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT CAR SIDE OF STARTED KILL - NOT USED
H3/5 - GREEN (+) STARTED INPUT KEY SIDE OF STARTER KILL - NOT USED
H3/6 - RED (+) FUSED 30A IGNITION 1 INPUT - NOT USED
H3/7 - PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY OUTPUT - NOT USED
H4/8 - PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A KEY SIDE IF REQUIRED OF FLEX RELAY - NOT USED
H3/9 - RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 30A ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT - NOT USED
H3/10 - NO CONNECTION

DOOR LOCK 3 PIN CONNECTOR
1 - BLUE (-) 500MA UNLOCK OUTPUT - NOT USED
2 - EMPTY
3 - GREEN (-) 500MA LOCK OUTPUT - NOT USED

MUX 1 @ SHOCK SENSOR AND GLASS BREAK (green and blue Y join with diodes away from alarm brain)
MUX 2 @ 508d SENSOR

TILT SENSOR – cut two loops to reduce sensitivity
RED @ 12V+ SUPLY
ORANGE (with diode toward the alarm brain) @ H1/6 - ORANGE (-) 500MA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTUT
BLUE @ H2/19 - BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C or N/O)

All sensors must be tested separately (prox and glass then shock and tilt)

RF PORT @ CONTROL CENTER

DB-ALL2 (BLUE PORT)
PIN 5 ORANGE / GREEN:FT CAN High @ ORANGE / GREEN: VEHICLE CAN High
PIN 6 ORANGE / BROWN:FT CAN Low @ ORANGE / BROWN: VEHICLE CAN Low

D2D RED PORT (VIPER 5704v) @ D2D WHITE PORT (DB-ALL2)
     

Absolutely correct.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I am a little bit concerned about the warning you make me aware in regard with the key programming.
If I correctly understood during the key programming (Remote Pairing) I have to take care that there is no other person that is doing the same like me but with another remote control.

If you program the OEM key and someone "obtains" (steals or in collusion with a crooked stores manager they can turn the alarm off and drive away.
If you don't program the OEM (factory) key AND do the starter cut, there's no chance of that happening.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry but my English is not so good and I don’t understand very well.
Do you mean that the OEM key (the key I am starting the engine of my car) can be programmed to arm/disarm the alarm?

Yes but don't.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Definitely I will not do that. What I am going to do is to pair the LC3 remote with the alarm. Is this OK?

Of course.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

In regard to the starter cut you have previously suggested I think I have to use a relay to cut the direct link between the ignition switch and the starter motor. Am I right?

No, built in, cut the starter wire, green to switch side, violet to starter side.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you! I understood and is not complicate. I hope I will be able to identify the starter wire.

I need a confirmation that the Remote Start 10-pin Harness Pinout is correct as it is indicated in the picture.
Thank you!

Yes, green to key side, violet to starter side.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

If you do it W2W rather than D2D your OEM key will not control the alarm.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you!
The reason I am asking those questions is because I tried to eliminate the unnecessary wires but from my mistake I removed all pins and I didnt marked the Connector.
My actual Connector is looking like this:

Here I attached a scheme of the Connector. I hope is good.

Bottom line, left hand 1 = green, 2 = violet. Depending on the starter wire thickness, you can use lighter gauge wires, especially for the bottom right pink in your photo.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I put them back.
This is the new picture.
Are they OK now? I think they are.

Yes, you only need green, violet and pink.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Meanwhile I tried to install the alarm on the car and I got into a new problem.
The problem is that the DBALL 2 does not detect the CAN.
First I had a solid red after that I had 1 red flash.
Those are the steps I did:

1. I flashed the DBALL 2 using the XKLOADER2 (No connection at this stage between the DBALL2 and the Viper 5704v. I used the computer, USB cable, the XKLOADER2, the connection with the DBALL2 and the DBALL2)

Attached is the capture from the screen. I checked all options.



2. I did all connections according to the following:

MAIN BRAIN, 6 PIN CONNECTOR

H1/1 - RED (+)12 DC CONSTANT INPUT @ CONSTANT 12 VOLT
H1/2 - BLACK (-)CHASSIS GROUND @ GROUND
H1/3 - BROWN (+)SIREN OUTPUT @ RED POSITIVE WIRE OF SIREN (Black wire of Siren @ Ground)
H1/4 - WHITE/ BROWN PARK LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87A OF ONBOARD RELAY – NOT USED
H1/5 - WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT – NOT USED
H1/6 - ORANGE (-) 500MA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTUT @ ORANGE (-) TILT SENSOR AND BLACK (-) LUMINISCENT INDICATOR (with 2 diodes (1N4004) – Y join towards the alarm brain)

AUX/SHUTDOWN/TRIGGER BRAIN 24 PIN CONNECTOR
H2/1 - PINK/WHITE(-) 200MA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/2 - BLACK WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT – NOT USED
H2/3 - BLUE/ WHITE (-) 200MA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/4 - GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200MA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/5 - RED / WHITE (-) TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/6 - GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT NORM OPEN NORM CLOSE – NOT USED
H2/7 - BLACK YELLOW (-) 200MA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/8 - BROWN / BLACK (-) 200MA HORN HONK OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/9 - DARK BLUE (-) 200MA STATUS OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/10 - PINK (-) 200MA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/11 - WHITE BLACK (-) 200MA AUX 3 OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/12 - VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT – NOT USED
H2/13 - WHITE VIOLET (-) 200MA AUX 1 OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/14 - VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200MA AUX 2 OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/15 - ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200MA AUX 4 OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/16 - BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT – NOT USED
H2/17 - GREY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT NORM OPEN NORM CLOSE – NOT USED
H2/18 - VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200MA STARTER OUTPUT – NOT USED
H2/19 - BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C or N/O) @ BLUE TILT SENSOR
H2/20 - GREY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT - NOT USED
H2/21 - WHITE BLUE (-) REMOTE START/TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT - NOT USED
H2/22 - ORANGE (-) 200MA ACCESSORY OUTPUT - NOT USED
H2/23 - VIOLET WHITE TACH INPUT - NUMBER 4 INJECTOR - NOT USED
H2/24 - GREEN WHITE (-) 200MA OEM ARM OUTPUT - NOT USED

REMOTE START, 10 PIN HEAVY GAUGE CONNECTOR
H3/1 - PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT @ PIN 7 GRAY/BLACK (+) IGNITION OUTPUT (DB-ALL2)
H3/2 - RED / WHITE (+) FUSED 30A IGNITION 2/ FLEX REPLAY INPUT 87 - NOT USED
H3/3 - ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT - NOT USED
H3/4 - VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT CAR SIDE OF STARTED KILL - NOT USED
H3/5 - GREEN (+) STARTED INPUT KEY SIDE OF STARTER KILL - NOT USED
H3/6 - RED (+) FUSED 30A IGNITION 1 INPUT - NOT USED
H3/7 - PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 FLEX RELAY OUTPUT - NOT USED
H3/8 - PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A KEY SIDE IF REQUIRED OF FLEX RELAY - NOT USED
H3/9 - RED / BLACK (+) FUSED 30A ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT - NOT USED
H3/10 - NO CONNECTION

DOOR LOCK 3 PIN CONNECTOR
1 - BLUE (-) 500MA UNLOCK OUTPUT - NOT USED
2 - EMPTY
3 - GREEN (-) 500MA LOCK OUTPUT - NOT USED

MUX 1 @ SHOCK SENSOR AND GLASS BREAK (green and blue Y join with diodes away from alarm brain)
MUX 2 @ 508d SENSOR

TILT SENSOR – cut two loops to reduce sensitivity
RED @ 12V+ SUPLY
ORANGE (with diode toward the alarm brain) @ H1/6 - ORANGE (-) 500MA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTUT
BLUE @ H2/19 - BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C or N/O)

RF PORT @ CONTROL CENTER

DB-ALL2 (BLUE PORT)
PIN 5 ORANGE / GREEN:FT CAN High @ ORANGE / GREEN: VEHICLE CAN High
PIN 6 ORANGE / BROWN:FT CAN Low @ ORANGE / BROWN: VEHICLE CAN Low

D2D RED PORT (VIPER 5704v) @ D2D WHITE PORT (DB-ALL2)

I dont understand what was wrong.

You have no ignition input from the audi to the dball. I know your not doing remote start but during programming the dball needs to know when you've done things like inserted the key (assuming non-PTS). So I'd say more wires are in order.

I was thinking about. I red the Troubleshooting section and the ignition input for dball must be "properly" connected.
I will try to identify the ignition wire and to make the connection.
Do you have any clue on how to identify the ignition wire. I am thinking to use a multimeter and to identify it in the Fuse Panel.

Err read where I said the pink remains connected on H3!
Black blue at the fusebox, or ignition switch loom, black, black yellow.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Err read where I said the pink remains connected on H3!
Black blue at the fusebox, or ignition switch loom, black, black yellow.

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And I'll ask the question preemptively, those are 3 wire colors so am I to assume they are three separate wires? Also where do I connect these wires on the dball or 5704v

And that's the rub!
I had exactly the same problem with an 07 A6 last week, the pink ignition goes to the grey/black generated by the DB-ALL2.
I wonder if it's worth while connecting an ignition source to the pink on the black plug of the DB-ALL2?
I tried ignition directly to the BLACK/ white on the DB-ALL2 red plug. It didn't work.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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And that's the rub!
I had exactly the same problem with an 07 A6 last week, the pink ignition goes to the grey/black generated by the DB-ALL2.
I wonder if it's worth while connecting an ignition source to the pink on the black plug of the DB-ALL2?
I tried ignition directly to the BLACK/ white on the DB-ALL2 red plug. It didn't work.

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Your the Audi man (I appoint you so) so you tell me? The pink on the black plug is a RS signal to fire up the ignition (DBall -> Audi) not so much a signal that the ignition has been turned on (Audi -> DBall). The BLACK/ White is a negative trigger so if your ignition was +12v yeah that wouldn't work. My thoughts are either the CAN wires are indeed incorrect OR the keysense (BLACK/ white) needs to be hooked up to the audi (BLACK / YELLOW) everything else that attaches to the audi for ignition and brake appear to be outputs. Not sure about the Start/Stop switch (GREEN/ black) that connects to the Black, BLACK/ Red, and Gray/Blue. Off hand it looks like a negative output but it has potential to be a positive sense/input.

And the million dollar question, how much time was actually saved trying to save time not hooking up wires you don't think you need? Every wire could have been hooked up to that DBAll in W2W mode by now.

Yes, I take that point, I've just been lucky with D2D so far.
When I get back to that Audi, it's naturally North West of Birmingham, about 120 miles away, I'll W2W it.
As for the CAN wires ORANGE / green hi and ORANGE / brown lo applies to all VW/Audi/Seat and Skoda from about 02. Before now I've picked them up anywhere but where Xpresskit say, wherever is easiest.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

My advice wasn't really referring to you although I hope it helps. It's more targeted towards the OP who was trying to save time and effort by only attaching two wires from the DBAll to the Audi and my how long that method has taken. When everything is hooked up per the install guide you can fault DEI or your wiring but no one can say you didn't follow instructions (Which really helps if you ever end up on the phone with DEI or even doing tech support here).

P.S. D2D should work and I don't believe that is the issue here or in your case howie.

It's really teeing me off. I tried two DB-ALL2, reflashed both at least twice. Even tried direct power and ground to the module, still wouldn't take. Next option is to go back, try the pink wire on the black plug to ign as I suggested above or stick a CAN-EVO in.
The irony for the poor poster is that Falcon Electronics in Romania is the major European test and development centre.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Dove into fortin's instruction set for the EVO-All and they too hook up the Black, BLACK/ Red, Gray/Blue, and BLACK / YELLOW to what would be the GREEN/ Black and BLACK/ White on the DBAll. The fortin manual gives good indication that those wires are inputs to the bypass module for ignition and keysense respectively.

If this was MY car, for all the hassle thus far I'd just go ahead and wire up the full remote start just plant an uncut valet key somewhere utilizing the homebrew wire loop method. But then again I'm also someone who would be satisfied with what the audi was equipped with from the factory and not want to bother with all this just for the add-on security system.

True but the factory system is garbage. Unlike VW they bury the siren in the rear quarter and it's somewhat muffled to put it nicely so owners inside their house can't hear it going off hence selling Vipers with LCD/OLED remotes.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

If you can afford an Audi, you can afford a garage; at least in these parts you can. That's my solution to that

Ha,Ha garage space in this crowded island? Very droll, most of them are RS versions guys in their 20s and 30s who aren't married, live in apartments.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

My sister and brother in law older than me both retired, Audi and BMW!
$1.5m house, 70 metre driveway and a one car garage.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I can get ignition from the cigarette lighter to program the DBALL but where to connect the ignition to DBALL?

Try the pink on the black plug and please let me know if works.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok. I will do it tomorrow.

No, didnt work but was one change when I turned the ignition ON/OFF. Before (no ignition connected) I had a solid red after that 1 flash on DBALL. With the pink wire from the black harness connected to ignition I had solid red until I turned the ignition off and after a wile I had 1 red flash.

So still effectively the same. I hate to say this but try W2W instead of D2D?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes. Next month I will return to Romania and I will do it there.
Thank you again for your help. I really appreciate it.

Don't forget if you go W2W you don't need to connect the starter outputs, brake or clutch bypass, tach, dark blue GWR wire, brake switch etc. Just doors, hood and trunk, lock unlock, ignition, indicators from the 5906 to the DB-ALL2

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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So still effectively the same. I hate to say this but try W2W instead of D2D?

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I hate to say you two likely aren't going to get away with just the two CAN wires attached to the vehicle. At least not when programming is concerned. Here goes the logic, the DBAll as part of programming involves inserting the key and pressing it on. There are dedicated wires to the DBAll to detect both of these events directly (I have made this conclusion). Without having knowledge of how the firmware works you can't determine that your unconnected wires aren't the cause of your problems.

Simply, stubbornness is biting you in the ass. IMHO

In theory CAN, 12V+, ground and not even an ignition input* according to the relevant diagram but two of us have come a cropper here so that's why I'm suggesting W2W.
*Ignition output is generated via the DB-ALL from the CAN wires. I've looked at the damned relevant diagram till I was blue in the face, tried and reflashed the modules twice, can't think of anything else, by the way the modules were from two different batches.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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In theory CAN, 12V+, ground and not even an ignition input* according to the relevant diagram but two of us have come a cropper here so that's why I'm suggesting W2W.
*Ignition output is generated via the DB-ALL from the CAN wires. I've looked at the damned relevant diagram till I was blue in the face, tried and reflashed the modules twice, can't think of anything else, by the way the modules were from two different batches.

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Don't see how W2W makes a difference, the alarm/rs unit need not be present to program a bypass module.

If you spent more time connecting wires than starting at the diagram you'd be done by now

By both your extreme opposition of going at the ignition switch wiring I can only conclude doing so is as difficult as changing a clutch in a front wheel drive manual transmission car.

Ha Ha I did try the DB-ALL without the RS connected, power ground CAN and ignition but not the pink, and it still didn't work hence my thoughts on the pink at the back plug.
It's that old conundrum Catback, follow the wiring diagram or your own common sense.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

What wiring diagram are you following? Idatalink, Xpresskit, and Fortin all hook up more than just power, ground, ignition (XK doesn't make vehicle connection), and CAN to these Audi's.

Your assuming you fully understand what the module does with all it's wires but your also the one having issues after following "Your (custom)" install guide.

Oh well what can I say, stare at the diagram more I guess. Maybe it'll work if you stare at it some more. Usermdr already tried your pink at the black plug idea. I don't believe the DBall turns off that input in D2D mode.

So what's the answer, original connections as D2D and yes LED stayed red on DB but I got IGN+ at grey/black on blue plug.
wth are we going wrong????

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

If I was DEI tech support I would tell you that you didn't hook up everything so I can't help you.

It's really quite simple, if you try to cheat then you do minimal work/effort to do so but if minimal doesn't work then you add more effort and if it still doesn't work you add more and this continues until you either have success at cheating or your no longer cheating and putting in your all.

I'll wait until I go baor more likely get another to do of the same type.
I know I've done correct wiring to use as an alarm not remote start so.........
Like you I test and verify each stage before wrapping up.
As an example I did a van sold here as a GM, Renault and Nissan, built in the UK from French parts. Siren (grounded locally) and hood switch, test inside vehicle before closing hood.
Test all load area and cab domelights via the pin switches first, etc. etc. So where did we BOTH go wrong on this vehicle?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Only other thing I can think of is I looked at the EVO-ALL diagram, even had a chat with a Fortin tech about it, he'll remember me because we support rival London (UK) soccer teams!
Assuming and I use the word loosely, that Fortin and DEI use the same colours, the Fortin wires going to the vehicle CAN are different colours though that may well be a red herring.
This is one instance where I'd actually trust DEI to get it right, VW/Audi/Skoda/Seat were the first manufacturer they designed the original CAN-1 for and they have a crew dedicated to doing the firmware for Euro cars in Romania.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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So where did we BOTH go wrong on this vehicle?

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What you think is for alarm and what is for remote start is where I think you both went wrong. The bypass (this DBAll or any of the others) are all wired to three start/stop wires, and one keysense.

You'd think these would all be outputs from the DBAll as they all go the ignition but just as the remote start harness on the 5704 things are not all so one sided. Even if you don't use the remote start on the 5704 you would still connect the ignition wire on the RS harness to the ignition. Now you know this and you know why but someone who doesn't fully know how the wires are used could make many arguments why they don't need the remote start harness or any of it's wires/connections when they only are setting up the alarm on the 5704 and then they would be on here trying to figure out why the 5704 works but doesn't program.

All I can say is Fortin lists the start/stop wires as (+), diode isolates, and ties the three of them into one connection. That connection on the DBall lists as a (-) so take that as you will. Three positive trigger wires that all are triggered together at once by a negative output - do you really think that's the case? Also a wire listed as keysense, on a push-to-start? Do you really think that would be an output from the DBall on a push-to-start vehicle?

Those are my thoughts on the subject from afar as well as it's easier to hook-up all wires that can be hooked up and not need them than it is to troubleshoot what's broken.

You're right I caught the POS NEG think and I take your point about not needing the starter wires. The vehicle wires in question are positive by the way and the DB-ALL gives a POS output on the grey/black wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.