viper 5906v smart? this proves i’m not.

Hello out there 12volt family, it's been a long time since I've been this way. I've got a good one (I think) maybe a first even! To keep it short I upgraded my viper 5901 to 5906 the security install went smooth (as usual) then remote start uh-oh! did not work transmitter reported that "remote start was not possible" now this is it! I connected my bitwriter and in short used the "zap" function, so now the unit is at factory default "0 transmitters" the problem is I'm unable to get the system into "pairing mode." There's no blue "led" and no "chirps" from the siren anymore. I tried the pairing steps anyway but transmitter reports "pairing failed" so I'm unable to do any programming of the system /transmitter. Any ideas that I can try before contacting Dei to have them do the re-pairing?

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Learning is unending and as such the knowledge acquired. Vic

Make sure that either the green or violet depending on the vehicle which you should have mentioned, make model and year go to either ground if you used the green or 12v+ if you used the violet! keep the ignition on.
If the above fails, check your voltage at the 15 amp fuse to your ground.
First time I tried a pair I didn't realise that unlike programming you keep the ignition on.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry about not mentioning 2004 Ford F150 supercrew 5.4L I did not know that was needed, thanks Howie. In reference to the violet or green color wires I take it that it pertains to H3 (remote start) if I'm correct the green is connected to the key side of the starter and the violet to the starter side. All voltages have checked out according to position of the key in the ignition on the connected wires, 0v off, 12.7v acc, 12.7v run, ignition wire 12.7v start /run, starter key side 12.7v at start drops to 0v at run so does the violet to the starter side. The alarm did function correctly before the "zap" I will check the wiring as it is presently for all connectors and post the information. Thanks again Howie for the input.

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Learning is unending and as such the knowledge acquired. Vic

No, H2 door triggers use green. Ground it, then try.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Do you have any saved settings in the bitwriter that you can load into the 5906 to maybe get it to function?
I think I ZAPPED a Viper 571 once and couldn't do anything with it until I loaded a saved setting back into it.
If not, maybe you can connect to the 5901 and retrieve the settings from that.
You would have to power up the 5901 with a 12 volt source. Which can be done on the bench.

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Thanks Howie, thanks Smokeman, I had actually thought about the uploading /downloading file approach but was not sure it would be approved by the more knowledgeable members of the 12volt family, I'm happy to see that someone else thinks it's something that can be tried. In continuity I'm going to check Howie's suggestion and then move on accordingly, will post result(s) between actions. I'm trying to finish the "Honey do" list so I can get back to real business Thanks again guys.

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Learning is unending and as such the knowledge acquired. Vic

Howie, like Yoda and like Splinter you are the master; as soon as I connected the green wire I was back in business, this was just a few minutes ago so as I got through pairing I created this post. I'll try to get back to the remote start tomorrow 6/30/14 hopefully I'll get this done in a smooth fashion. Incidentally I tried the remote start function but get a message after the attempts stating "low battery" since there's no voltage present on the ignition wire during this time when there should be +12 volts I'm suspecting that I'll have to start from the key bypass, when I use the key in the ignition the truck starts with no problem. I'll keep updating with any results, thanks again howie and smokeman.


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Learning is unending and as such the knowledge acquired. Vic

The instructions state "Door Open" That is what you just did with the green wire.

Craig, I was working on the assumption of Ford NO door switch triggers and the Viper not having been programmed that way , hence "ground the green".
I always bench program and pair before the instal whenever possible.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hey, guys okay you can call me the disappearing man unfortunately for me I have not been able to get back to my project as yet, the grand and great grand kids have seen to that anyway while I'm waiting I ordered an evo all bypass it seems to offer a lot of add on for future projects, hope it's a good choice; will update accordingly and as always thanks.

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Learning is unending and as such the knowledge acquired. Vic

Hey guys I'm back the evo all arrived and I installed it, the present state of the leds on it is alternate flashing "red and yellow" I think that's step #15 "program 6" however no remote start operation, obviously I have not properly installed the viper 5906 following the quick install guide which is the only installation information I've been able to put my hands on (came in the viper's box)I can't seem to find detailed information (connections) specific to the 5906 of course the one place that most likely has it wont let me into their site since I'm not a "registered" Directed /Viper installer, as always I'm open to all advice and suggestions.
The wiring for the 5906 seems to be pretty much the same as my previous system 5901 except for some additional connector pins and wire color(s) more "bells and whistles" The symptoms I'm now having when I try to remote start is: "No lights in instruments cluster window, I hear the sound of relay(s)clicking in the brain (5906) the locks operate in conjunction with attempt to start, then finally the lcd's window displays low battery" incidentally the siren chirps when I use the remote and it displays 'armed' however the siren does not go off when a door is opened while armed, the blue led on the control center continues to flash normally. The connections are as follows:

Main harn. pin #1 red to battery (+12) I wired a fused 30 amp directly. #2 black to chassis (properly grounded) #3 brown to siren. #4 no conn. #5 to parking light. #6 no conn.

Aux/shutdown harn. pin #9 gray (had to install hood pin to avoid hood open message) normally open. #13 black /white, to chassis. #15 green (*) #18 violet (*) *Instructions state only for manual trans, however this is questionable to me at this point I will explain later on.

Remote start harn. pin #5 to ign dk blue /lt green. #6 green to start red /lt blue (key side) #7 violet to start red /lt blue (car side) #8 orange to black /green access'y.

When I start the truck all necessary voltages are present at the remote start harness, no voltage at all when using the remote.

I think that's it (phew)did my best to maintain perspective.




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Learning is unending and as such the knowledge acquired. Vic

vicvolt wrote:

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Main harn. pin #1 red to battery (+12) I wired a fused 30 amp directly. #2 black to chassis (properly grounded) #3 brown to siren. #4 no conn. #5 to parking light. #6 no conn.

Aux/shutdown harn. pin #9 gray (had to install hood pin to avoid hood open message) normally open. #13 black /white, to chassis. #15 green (*) #18 violet (*) *Instructions state only for manual trans, however this is questionable to me at this point I will explain later on.

Remote start harn. pin #5 to ign dk blue /lt green. #6 green to start red /lt blue (key side) #7 violet to start red /lt blue (car side) #8 orange to black /green access'y.

When I start the truck all necessary voltages are present at the remote start harness, no voltage at all when using the remote.

I think that's it (phew)did my best to maintain perspective.

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The internet is your friend for finding install guides for DEI products but the viper is a professional line product intended to be installed by those who have training and are experienced so the "instructions" that come with them are no beginners how do I connect this to my car step-by-step.

Yes, you will want to connect one, either positive or negative, door trigger wire to the vehicle in order for the alarm to detect doors opening and further more to allow you to enter into programming mode.

Your main harness #1 red to +12v needs to be down rated to the 15 amps it came with. This connection only supplies power to the viper's on-board circuitry and the parking lights, it does not power the ignition harness.

Which brings me to why the module clicks during remote start but the cars ignition appears unpowered. You need to hook-up the heavy gauged 30a fused remote start harness wires to their appropriate constant 12v spots on the vehicle. It is those wires that will power the ones you have hooked into your ignition.

Thanks for the input catback, please understand my state of confusion; I previously had installed (DIY) the viper 5901 a few years ago following the wiring instructions and it worked, I do however understand what you're saying in reference to being "Trained". About the (+12vdc) that I wired directly from the battery (30amp fused) to the main harness for the constant is the only different step I took as far as this install goes. You advise to lower the fuse rating (which I'll do) however the way I understand "conductors and circuit protection" the fuse would open (blow) if the current draw exceeded it's rating, I will update once I've done this. In reference to the RS harness what you've stated makes a whole lot of sense that "power" is needed, I only followed the written instructions that I have and honestly because of my limited knowledge did /do not want to "just try this and that" I would be quite comfortable working from an actual "wiring diagram" for this install or any as such, if I could get one instead of the "read out" which brings me to the RS and how it is to be connected in a successful fashion, (Help) The door open situation I can connect the violet wire and there's no door open message, Is this an error in the instructions that the green and violet wires mentioned in my earlier post are referenced for "Manual trans" incidentally the alarm does not sound when the door is opened even if I have the violet connected when armed, so I sincerely appreciate any help, suggestions and advice that I can get from the community. Once again catback, thanks for taking the time out to offer of the fruits of your knowledge to help one that's less knowledgeable.

This is now a shout out to Master Howie, "I hope all is well".

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Learning is unending and as such the knowledge acquired. Vic

Thanks for your thoughts, been all over the UK recently with work, not funny for a 67 year old but the state pension lasts me about two days, anyway your problems.
Firstly the fuse. Catback as usual is correct. Downrate that fuse! The point is even though you might have a short an uprated fuse can still damage the R/S circuits before it blows hence the lower rating. In fact if your white light output wire is NEG you could even safely go to 5 amps!
Right. H3 connectors. Are the red, RED / white and RED / black powered up from a constant source?
What you should have done in the first place was to join wire to wire (solder) from the original 5901 or do what we do, trace back to the source, remove 5901 wiring and replace with new.
Last. I don't know this vehicle but if the door trigger wiring is NEG, violet isn't needed.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Traveling can sometimes be fun even when work related, I did the same thing here in the US during the last 20 years before "having" to retire and yes I think I know what you mean about that monthly check anyway I owe both catback and you and yes the rest of the community that read my post in reference to the wiring an apology, I was not clear in my description of the Main harness' +12v connection.
   
The red wire for the constant +12v is not "Actually" connected to the battery; I ran a separate "Fused 30 amp" as a supply line rather than using the "Green /bl" constant 12v from the truck's wiring as was used before with the 5901. Main harness is "powered constant" with it's original architecture. I thought about it after I had replied to catback's post and realized I must've communicated some thing with error.

Howie what you've suggested in making the new connections, I'm so glad that's the way I started and somewhere between then and now ??? about the green wire from the Aux conn. that you had me ground which did restore "operation" of the brain, I did detach it's ground when I kept getting "door open" with it disconnected still got the message, so I'm going to take another look to see where I may have "fell asleep" by the way Master Howie I've got 3 years on you.

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Learning is unending and as such the knowledge acquired. Vic

Hey catback I wanted to say a special "Thanks" for the honest down to earth question(s) you asked me, because of that I actually got a clearer /better understanding of the RS system by having to listen to myself answer. I'm happy to say that I have had success in getting the viper 5906v remote start to function so now all that's left for a complete "successful" install is to get the alarm to function correctly. I'm going to try to get back to working on it as soon as I can which should /could be within the next few days, when everything is done I'll post the way I have the system connected. Of course as always I'm asking the community at large for any help that I can get; once again my sincere thanks and definitely not forgetting Master Howie's input.

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Learning is unending and as such the knowledge acquired. Vic

Hi guys I finally got around to wrapping up my project (for now anyway) everything's functional with a small quirk that I can live with (the door open message) I'm going to get back to that somewhere down the road, I guess I'll have to use a diode to isolate some one of the wires that's causing the "False" message. As always thank you Master Howie, as you stated I needed to have a constant 12v to the "red /black" wire (pin #2 remote start connector) as soon as I made that connection I got the r s to function. The green wire pin #15 (auxiliary conn)has an output of 12v, I now have this wire connected to the black / YELLOW wire in dkp which rests at 12v when the door is closed and goes - (neg)when the door is opened, which results in the siren sounding (alarm)funny thing though I could've sworn I had made this connection before but there was no alarm! anyway as the old saying goes "all's well that ends well." Thanks again catback

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Learning is unending and as such the knowledge acquired. Vic

Then a thumbs up! Try resetting/reprogramming to Menu 2, feature 4.
Default is on, turn it off to see if that makes any practical difference.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hello to you Master Howie and the rest of the members out there, as always Howie you are the man your knowledge, insight and wisdom as far as I'm concerned is without question. That's me saying thanks for the advise in changing that item in the menu of the system, like magic it took care of that little quirk; so until my next project I'll just be somewhat passive, that is unless there's something I see on the forum that my input can positively impact. Thanks again my friend, hope you and the family are doing well.

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Learning is unending and as such the knowledge acquired. Vic

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.