first 2006 silverado 3500hd

Good evening everyone. For the longest time I have wanted a viper remote system. I purchased the system(5906v) and a xk01 and they have both arrived. Hopefully the xko1 will do the job.

I have them here in front of me getting them ready. Connecting wires and removing un needed wires. I seen the post for 2003-2006 yukon and got all the information. My truck is athe 6.6l duramax diesel. Should I not have any problems?

I plan on doing D2D to ease the installation. From what I have read I am pretty confident in the install.

A few questions for you guys,

Where should i mount the shock sensor, does it really matter as long as it is fastened to a solid piece of the frame/dash?

How do I switch the parking lights to (-) for my truck?

Any thing specific to look out for on the diesels? It is a automatic.

Thanks for your help!

I only have the brown wire left on my xk01 to install to my viper system. It is asking for ground when running, Is this wire 23 in the 24 pin harness? (-) 200ma accessory out put?

Also, with running d2d i have a quick question. I have a welding rig and wish to add truck locks to the lids on the tool boxes in the future. I wish to open these with my remote. can this be done since my truck does not have a truck? Can i just wire it straight from the viper system into a relay going to the latches?

1) Dark blue wire aka status output on H2.
2) Yes. You can use either the RED / white on H2 or one of the aux outputs to trigger a relay.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks Howie! Got the brown wire fixed up and most of the system installed. security system is working with a few minor issues.

first when I push unlock it says truck is open. I don't have a trunk?

Second, when programming the xk01 it says to hold down the program button to save mode 4 until the light flashes rapidly. It will only flash once then do nothing. Am I missing something?

Now my problem with the remote start. I could not figure out where to wire starter input. I believe i got the output on the correct wire(the one that goes to 12v while cranking only, heavy gauge wire yellow I believe).

Is it okay to run wires 4 and 9 from the rs plug off of the same ignition wire(white)?

Lastly(for now atleast!), do I have to wire the tach when doing d2d? I got the brake switch and the data wire done.

thanks for any help, hopefully I can get this completed tomorrow. Went a lot smoother than I though, just time consuming.

1) Read the post top of the page on trunk triggers.
2) Can't help, never seen an XK01 here in Europe.
3) Starter wire input if you mean fused RED / black, this along with the red and RED / white plus red at H1 goes to a constant 12V+ source.
If you mean the starter wire, test, find and cut then green H3 to key side, violet H3 to starter side.
4) Frankly better to distribute your load, a heavy duty fusebox batt+ supply near to hand?
5)Does the XK01 supply tach? If so, you're good to go but you must still program for it.
Remember over here in Europe we might run into a unicorn more often than a Dodge Ram so every thing I'm telling you is theoretical with regards to your vehicle, I can't answer any questions on wiring colours.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks so much again. I hooked the green wire(key side) to a constant 12+ (red under steering column). When I turn key to on position the truck cranks instantly. The 12+ from the green is automatically applied to the violet.

I removed the plug for the rs from the viper module. There is contact between Viiolet and green.

Here is how the rs is wired.

Orange accessory - orange accessory under column

Red black Fused 12+ accessory/starter input - brown accessory under column

Ignition 1 pink - pink ignition under column

Pink white ignition 2 flex relay out - white ignition under column

Red white 12+ fused ignition 2 / flex relay input - white ignition 2 under column

Red fused 12v ignition 1 - pink ignition under column

Pink black flex relay input - cut and taped off

Green starter input - red constant 12v ( temporarily unhooked becase of starting truck when ignition turned to on position)

Violent starter output - yellow starter wire under column

This post scares me.

Firstly, a revision to your R/S harness connections. Changes are marked with asterisks

Here is how the rs is wired.

Orange accessory - orange accessory under column

Red black Fused 12+ accessory/starter input - RED (constant +12v) under column *****

Ignition 1 pink - pink ignition under column

Pink white ignition 2 flex relay out - white ignition under column

Red white 12+ fused ignition 2 / flex relay input - RED (constant +12v) under column *****

Red fused 12v ignition 1 - RED (constant +12v) under column *****

Pink black flex relay input - cut and taped off

Green starter input - CUT THE YELLOW STARTER WIRE, THE KEY SIDE GOES HERE (green wire) *****

Violent starter output - CUT THE YELLOW STARTER WIRE, THE OTHER (vehicle) SIDE GOES HERE (violet wire) *****

Secondly, if your doing D2D you shouldn't need to connect the "ground while running" status wire to the XK01.

Cat back. Thanks for the info. I made all of your revisions.
I wired in the hood switch , grounded the neutral safety switch, wired the tach.

Even though I did d2d I went ahead and paired up all the wires from the harness to the viper module. Even the ones that were not needed. Will this cause problems?

My remote start is still not working. I am not confident the ak01 has programmed successfully.

Any tips? Thanks again

Me too, sorry I'm about 8 hours ahead, Catback's saved me answering, follow his instructions.😱

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yes, hooking up both D2D and W2W can potentially cause problems. Typically with the XK01 responding to commands twice (once over D2D and again over W2W).

As for setting up the XK01:
Is/Was the XK01 flashed with the AMDL v6.00 firmware?

As per the install directions for the XK01 in your truck

STEP 3
-------------------------------------------------------------------
To change the vehicle type, press and release the Programming button
until the LED flash pattern corresponds to the selected vehicle type. The
LED flash pattern will match the selected vehicle type.
For example:
- 1 flash = Type 1
- 2 flashes = Type 2


STEP 4
--------------------------------------------------------------------
To save the vehicle type selection, press and hold the Programming button
until the LED flashes rapidly*.
* For GM vehicles (types 1 to 4), the LED will not flash; it will stay
ON solid. You will need to use the key and start the vehicle to turn the
LED OFF and complete the programming sequence.

If you note in step 4 it states the LED will NOT flash (your silverado is vehicle type 4) and that you need to do that additional part listed in step 4.

After your wiring is done and the XK01 module is programmed, you'll need to program the 5906 for an automatic transmission, set engine check to tachometer mode, and do the tach learn procedure. After all is said and done remote start should have success.

Okay, Made a lot of progress! Got the tach learn done, and set the mode to automatic(i am pretty sure).

It goes into remote start mode then shortly says switch off, and lights flash 8 times for neutral safety switch. I have double checked the wire and it is good. It also says switch off, I am assuming that is referring to the switch that has the two black wires coming off. The switch shows continuity between each wire.

Getting excited about this system and I think I am getting close. Thanks for your time guys

Ensure that the BLACK/ white neutral safety/parking brake input wire is grounded and that the toggle (neutral safety) switch is plugged in and in the ON position. Both conditions must be met to not get the 8 flash error.

I cut the switch off and grounded all three wires to the frame.

How do I locate the version on my xk01? What would happen if it was not the most current?

To get the firmware version that's on the XK01 you have to hook it to a computer with the use of the XKLoader2 and the XpressVIP software. Where did you purchase the XK01 and did they flash it with the firmware for your vehicle?

If the XK01 was recently flashed I wouldn't worry about it not being the most current. The most current for your truck AMDL v6.00 came out 5/10/2007.

I wouldn't worry about the XK01 until the truck actually tries to start. It's then when you know if the bypass has taken by if the truck starts and stays running or if the factory immobilizer kills it or keeps it from starting.

If your still getting the 8 flashes I would rewire the "plug-in" neutral safety switch more to the way it works out of the box. You can omit the switch and just join the two wires but only ground the BLACK/ white wire that is meant to be grounded.

I purchased from a sell on ebay that had over 10k transactions and had 100% positive feed back. Hopefully I do not regret this.

I tried joining the two wore before I grounded them.

I am going back out when it cools down to see if I can figure it out. After I foxed the neutral safety switch the lights stop flashing and it only shows error on the remote. With the switch off message

So I ruled out the brake switch, the hood switch, and I removed the wires that were attached to the switch from ground and wired them together.i made sure it is fully seated in the module

So what's the alarm/remote start doing and not doing? What works and doesn't work?

Alarm worked correctly but remote start did not. It finally got dark enough for my flashlight to create enough contrast under there. I had violet / white and black / white mixed up. Swapped them ready did tach learn then it fired right up.

How sensitive should the shock sensor be? I can rock the truck pretty hard and it doesn't even chirp.

Also, should I be able to turn on the defrost with my truck? I get a error when I try.

Thanks again for everything

As per the XK01 install guide - "Defogger and Heated seats features may or may not function depending on the capabilities of the vehicle"

Activation of them by the XK01 is automatic upon remote start at 32ºF if the vehicle is capable.

As for the 5906v controlling the defogger by way of remote or automatically, that's an extra connection and programming step that has to be done.

Okay good. making sure everything is as it should be.

I turned the system arming to active w/o locks. I always work out side of my truck and leave the keys inside. So the alarm being on would not bother me but locking the doors would put me in big trouble.

I believe the only obstacle left is the turbo timer. I set it for 3 minutes and I believe I have to set the parking brake before I turn the truck off. It still shuts off. Is there more to it then just programming the viper?

I wish I could buy you a beer or something. You have made the difference 100% of this install. Glad I decided to give it a shot, but much more glad this forum is up.

Going back to the thread about the trunk message. I assume I need to buy the cable/device to hook up the bypass to my computer. I am also getting a door open message.

I found how to turn on the turbo timer, by turning on the with the remote. I seen there was a option to have a button on the dash but gave no further detail on what type of button to use.

How do I adjust the alarm sensitivity? I can't set the alarm off even if I try. I can jump on the bed and nothing. I already turned the screw on the side of the shock sensor. It has a red LED on the inside that flashes so I know it is hooked up.

Glad to help. Those that can should help those that can't but want to learn and that's what we do here

With your door open message, where do you have your green and violet door trigger wires going? The violet one isn't needed and shouldn't be connected to anything, the green I assume based on this thread is wired to the violet/white wire on the XK01. That will work for the front doors but it doesn't pickup the rear doors so you'll have to hook-up the 5906v's green door trigger wire to rear door trigger wires on the truck.

For on-dash turbo timer, you'll need to add a momentary push button to the truck somewhere. Connect one side to ground and the other side to the WHITE/ blue activation input wire of the 5906v. With the turbo timer programmed on, pushing this button will start the turbo timer.

For the shock sensor, if you turn the adjustment screw clockwise it'll become more sensitive. If it just gives a quick flash that's a warn-away event, the light will give a long pulse to indicate a full trigger. You can test this while adjusting the sensor, you should easily be able to fully trigger the alarm by hitting the sensor with your hand. Placement and adjustment is really a fine art, if it's too sensitive thunder and loud subwoofers will set it off all the time and if it's too insensitive it'll never go off. So play with placement and adjustment to find your happy median.

You are correct, I hooked both wires to the xk01. I will remove the violet. Since the green wire is already being used to I just tie it in to the rear door wires? Three wires into one, all going to xk01?

I will definitely be hooking up a momentary switch somewhere. That is pretty simple.

Technically, all the door triggers go to the 5906v.

Your XK01 will connect to the 5906v (XK01 violet/white to 5906v green).
The trucks door triggers will also be connected to the green wire of the 5906v.
All the doors hooked up to the green trigger wire have to be diode isolated to keep the circuits separated and functioning in the manner intended.

I am understanding you now. Since the front doors are in the d2d I am considering hooking the rear doors to the green wire and the other to the trunk wire.

Is there a trick to turning auto arm off? I set to active arming but it still locks itself.

Default mode is active arming, try changing back again.
Ref the rear doors, use the green wire and diode separate.
And to save you the next question, 1N4004, bands to doors.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Lol thanks howie

Okay, I'm back...


I've had a series of problems with my truck today. Thankfully this is probably the least of them(the bellows in the up pipe have cracked on the engine).

I swung by radioshack and picked up a momentary switch and the two diodes needed for the rear doors.

Today I only had time to wire up the switch. It works great, when the truck is already running. But since I installed the switch and wired it to wire #11(WHITE/ blue activation) my remote will not start the truck.

If I am sitting in the truck I can push the activation button and the truck will start(a full 12 min cycle, as if I were pushing the remote start on my key fob)


If i try with the remote it goes into remote start activation but then immediately deactivates. Does not give a reason, lights don't flash, just does not work. I can't even push remote start while the truck is running to put it into pit stop mode. It deactivates no matter what If the key fob is used.

also I noticed today when i used remote start(before it started acting up) a "service brake system" message was displayed. Is this something to do with my install? Its the first time I have seen it. Goes away as soon as I start driving.

thanks for any help

If you unplug the wires from the back of the push button switch and leave them unplugged/hanging does the key fob work? If it does the problem is the type of switch (needs to be a momentary normally-open switch). If the problem persists recheck various programming options and any possibly affected wiring.

Catback, there is no change if unhooking the switch. I am also now getting a panic alarm while driving at random times.

Since I unhooked all the unnecessary wires going from the xk01 to the viper module I have not received and trunk alarms. But I do still get a door open alarm when all doors are closed. There is nothing hooked up to the green wire so it has to be the module, or the xko1 right?


The only way to leave the truck running is to push the activation button. Then to keep resetting it every 2-3 minutes to keep the timer going. I am fixing to double check all wires.

I read somewhere that the service brake system was from the truck starting up before the bcm had time to start the abs module up. I originally did not hook up the diesel wait to start wire because I was just going to use the timer when it got cold. I think If i hook this wire up it may give it that 1-2 seconds before cranking the system needs.. although this problem did not occur until yesterday.

Good news. I re did the tach learn and reset the xk01. The remote start is now working.

With the turbo timer, I tried adjusting the time to 6 minutes. The run time was still at 3 min. Then I tries changing the timer mode. It was set to 12 min and when I press the activation button it sets run time to 12 min. This is fine for me just putting this out there if anyone is having trouble programming the time.

Only issue I'm still having is the open door and possibly the service brake system.

Tomorrow I will be removing my up pipe... yippie

Thanks guys

Now reset that turbo timer for 2 minutes or less, anything over that time will ruin it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Will do Howie, thanks again. Any input on the door open message?

No body has any input on the open door message? I have searched for hours with no results

Where are your green and violet door triggers connected as of present? Do you get the message when the wires are not connected?

When the all the doors are closed the green door trigger wire should NOT see a ground on it and the violet should NOT see +12v. If the culprit isn't with those wires then it would be with the bypass module which can be isolated by disconnecting the D2D connection between the bypass and alarm. You hardwired W2W so you don't really need D2D anyway.