Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2011 titan viper 4606 wont start

Hey guys just installed a viper 4606 and idatalink bypass module in my 2011 Titan.
I used to be a 12v installer when I was younger so I decided to do the install myself.
Was a fun install until my problem arose...

It will only start with a key in the ignition.
I have had the idatalink flashed to the correct vehicle, twice.
Iam doing a W2W install, the idata programing seems simple but maybe im doing it wrong?
After a factory reset
I press and release the program button, then I press the program button untill the light flashes green 2 times for W2W and then push and hold the program button to lock it in
I then put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position, the light on the idata flashes RED / green very rapidly then turns solid green for 2 seconds
I turn the ignition off and try to remote start and it attempts to start 3 times.
It doesnt crank during the attempts which lead me to think it isnt programed to the idata.
So I tried it again, same result.
When I put the key in the ignition it remote starts fine every time.
I should mention the truck does have a factory alarm and I do have the arm/disarm from the remote start hooked up and working.
Infact everything is working, locks, alarm disarm, power rear window, and rear defrost.
Im at a loss, just hoping that since I have been out of the game for 10 years im over looking something obvious.

Did you hook up the status/-negative while running wire

I sure did, its the dark blue wire labled staus from the viper rs
its connected to the blue/white wire on the idata
i tested for negative output on the status wire with my multi meter but it doesnt show continuity to ground
probably because its such a weak pulse?
so i tried just manually putting the blue/white wire to ground while I tried a remote start
it still tries to start 3 times with no crank

i dont have the second accessory cconnected, but it still starts with key in the ignition so that doesnt seem to matter
i was just out looking over the wiring and i may have this wrong....
i have the parking brake input on the idata connected directly to ground and the parking brake input from the viper connected to ground as well
i had them connected together (as per idata wiring diagram) to start with but the remote start would just attempt to start then stop and flash the park lights 7 times
instructions said that it was a neutral safety switch diagnosis code
thats when i decided to connect both to ground, this way i atleast can get it to remote start with the key in the ignition
sooooo lost now

Where are you getting your tach signal? From the bypass or the vehicle direct? What's the LED on the bypass doing during a remote start?

Based on having to connect the neutral safety switch wire to ground directly vs the bypass e-brake output I suspect either the bypass isn't communicating with the vehicle or you didn't have the vehicles e-brake on during prior remote start attempts. What bypass module is this specifically and what firmware and version is flashed onto it?

Im getting the tach signal from the bypass, virtual tach signal they call it
but that seems to be good as it learned the tach and runs fine with key in the ignition
I didnt have the e brake on while trying to start the vehicle, its an automatic so I figured it wouldnt need to be on?
If thats all it is im going to be a happy man lol!
The bypass module is the Idatalink DBI-AL(DL)-N14-EN
I cant tell you what firmware or version is flashed to the module as the local car audio shop flashed it for me to match my vehicle year and factory key/alarm configuration
Im at work now but ill try connecting the ebrake status wire from the bypass to the remote start e brake input and put the ebrake on
thanks for the ideas, ill post my results later
fingers crossed

I tried connecting the e brake wires and pushing the ebrake on and no difference...
It just attempts to start then flashes the parking lights 8 times
i wired it back so both ebrake inputs are direct to ground again
the led on the bypass is flashing green while attempting to start
after the three attempts at starting the light stops flashing green and turns off
im baffled

Well Iam about ready to just zip tie a transponder key to the ignition colum and get regular key blanks to use.
Does anyone know what firmware and version I should be getting flashed onto the idata module?

Black connector plugged in and switched on?
BLACK/ white at H2 to a good ground.
Are the red, RED / white and RED / black connected to a constant feed?
The dark blue at H2 will give you a constant NEG about 1 second after you initiate R/Start, it gives enough current to light a Snap-On incandescent bulb tester.
Program the R/S to automatic.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Zip tying keys to the ignition column doesn't work without relocating the antenna.

The bypass modules e-brake output should not be grounded, if your not using it leave it disconnected.

Virtual tach and real tach are two different things, real tach has to be manually learned by starting the vehicle and within 5 seconds pressing and holding the program button until 4106's LED lights constant. Virtual tach self learns on the first remote start and doesn't require a tach wire connection. It utilizes voltage monitoring instead of actual rpm (tach).

I'd have to say closely scrutinize your installation and ensure things are connected where they should be. The idatalink has 6 wires that connect to the vehicle at 3 different locations. Make sure they are right and tight. Barring that I'd say the module or firmware is not working because so far in this post I've yet to see you mention any particular thing the bypass can do actually working. It is supposed to do e-brake, tach, hood pin, door pin, and brake pedal (while ignition on) status as well as doing transponder bypass.

howie ll wrote:

Black connector plugged in and switched on?
BLACK/ white at H2 to a good ground.
Are the red, RED / white and RED / black connected to a constant feed?
The dark blue at H2 will give you a constant NEG about 1 second after you initiate R/Start, it gives enough current to light a Snap-On incandescent bulb tester.
Program the R/S to automatic.

^All these connections are correct, I have checked and re checked 3 times including re soldering incase of a possible cold solder.
I will check the negative from the dark blue status wire though to be sure.

howie ll wrote:

Black connector plugged in and switched on?
BLACK/ white at H2 to a good ground.
Are the red, RED / white and RED / black connected to a constant feed?
The dark blue at H2 will give you a constant NEG about 1 second after you initiate R/Start, it gives enough current to light a Snap-On incandescent bulb tester.
Program the R/S to automatic.

catback wrote:

Zip tying keys to the ignition column doesn't work without relocating the antenna.

The bypass modules e-brake output should not be grounded, if your not using it leave it disconnected.

Virtual tach and real tach are two different things, real tach has to be manually learned by starting the vehicle and within 5 seconds pressing and holding the program button until 4106's LED lights constant. Virtual tach self learns on the first remote start and doesn't require a tach wire connection. It utilizes voltage monitoring instead of actual rpm (tach).

I'd have to say closely scrutinize your installation and ensure things are connected where they should be. The idatalink has 6 wires that connect to the vehicle at 3 different locations. Make sure they are right and tight. Barring that I'd say the module or firmware is not working because so far in this post I've yet to see you mention any particular thing the bypass can do actually working. It is supposed to do e-brake, tach, hood pin, door pin, and brake pedal (while ignition on) status as well as doing transponder bypass.

The only reason I hooked up the ebrake wire is because the idata instructions say its required.
I try disconnecting it.
I do know the difference between the 2 tach options but that seems to be working, as does the hood pin, door pin, and brake pedal
Just seems like the transponder bypass is the only thing not working.

catback wrote:

Zip tying keys to the ignition column doesn't work without relocating the antenna.

The bypass modules e-brake output should not be grounded, if your not using it leave it disconnected.

Virtual tach and real tach are two different things, real tach has to be manually learned by starting the vehicle and within 5 seconds pressing and holding the program button until 4106's LED lights constant. Virtual tach self learns on the first remote start and doesn't require a tach wire connection. It utilizes voltage monitoring instead of actual rpm (tach).

I'd have to say closely scrutinize your installation and ensure things are connected where they should be. The idatalink has 6 wires that connect to the vehicle at 3 different locations. Make sure they are right and tight. Barring that I'd say the module or firmware is not working because so far in this post I've yet to see you mention any particular thing the bypass can do actually working. It is supposed to do e-brake, tach, hood pin, door pin, and brake pedal (while ignition on) status as well as doing transponder bypass.

So your W2W setup grabs the brake pedal, hood, and doors from the bypass and they all work. During a remote start/take over session pressing the brake pedal kills the remote start whilst not being wired to the brake pedal switch but only to the bypass module. If this is functioning then the only suspects left are connection to the immobilizer wires at the ignition, the firmware on the bypass module, and the module itself.

I'm basing this on the statement that if the key is in the ignition with the vehicle and key off that a remote start executes successfully, powers up the ignition and cranks the vehicle no problem.

If wires and connections are good, you can always try the alternate firmware. The ADS-AL(DL)-NI4 (1.7) or even the transponder bypass only ADS-AL(TB)-NI4 (1.3) or DBI-AL(TB)-NI4 (1.3).

I also want to be sure with the wire connections you have cut and properly connected the immobilizer data wire at the ignition to the bypass module.

^My W2W setup works exactly as you describe. Grabs hood, doors etc and the brake pedal does interupt the start sequence when pushed and it is only wired to the bypass module.
I just had a tech from the local 12v shop here take a look at it quick and flashed all the options of firmware onto my original bypass module and same outcome.
Then we grabbed a new module and flashed all the same firmware options available onto it and same out come.
He then tried going D2D and still the same result.
It has to be the imobilizer wires, but even the tech said that its weird the bypass module is programming to the key correctly yet not starting.
Im going to look at imobilizer wiring again. I followed the idatalink instructions on where to take the imobilizer wires from. The instructions show a pic of the plug and wire location on the plug for the imobilizer wires.
I just noticed though that the wire colors I found dont match the wire color description in the idata instructions.
Im sure I have the correct imobilizer wire plug as its the ony 4 wire plug near the steering column.
Im digging into it this afternoon, it will start!

Does any body know what/where the imobilizer wires are?
I used the #2 and #4 pins on the 4 pin white plug that attaches to the steering column.
#2 pin has a pink wire
#4 pin has a GREEN / WHITE wire

You could compare it to the Fortin EVO-ALL install guide. Here is a link :
https://fortin.ca/download/15791/evo-all_nissan_infiniti.rev-20140507.pdf
Use the Connection 3 Diagram. Fortin started the Pin numbering from the other side of the plug and shows an illustration
of the White transponder connector location on the ignition switch. It lists the TX or Data wire as either Orange or Brown.

Also double check that you didn't mix the Key side and the Vehicle side on the ADS AL-CA ORANGE / Black Data wire.

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Soldering is fun!