classic car, viper 3305v, 506t, 507m, 508d

The alarm is going on an older classic vehicle, that I am restoring. I purchased the Viper 3305V, along with the 506T (Glass Break), 507M (Tilt), and 508D (Invisibeam). I noticed that the processor only has one 4 pin terminal plug (for one sensor). I was curious as to the best way to incorporate the additional sensors, and isolate them. I am not sure if using other triggers would be better or multiplexing into the 4 pin terminal?

I will not be using the remote start, or power locks, etc.  Basically the only things that I have, as it relates to the alarm, is door pins that turn the dome light on and off, and thats about it. The vehicle is pretty simple without all the electronic gizmos of modern vehicles. In addition the above, location suggestions for the central processor unit, and sensors would be great! Thanks. Hopefully I can get most of this done this weekend. The all steal dash has been removed and cleaning up the wiring harness on the vehicle...

Ooop should have mentioned that I don't have a trunk or anything like that as well... So no need to use that feature...

I found this article useful for my application maybe it will to you too

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=131683

Just my comment mainly because I too have older vehicles (all of my registered 4 wheelers have been form the 1960s), and noting that MAYBE technology & reliability have changed...

My alarm would sense door switches etc - NOT voltage changes, dome lights etc.
I'd add a microwave for proximity or entry - NOT glass break, ultrasonic etc.
I probably would not have a tilt sensor UNLESS effective and not too sensitive.

The above result from years observing false triggers. Even today I rejoice at the odd glass sensor I set off because of my exhaust - it's not load, but probably a bit too oldskool and less mosquito farty - and also the odd same or movement sensor triggered by my passing wake.

I'd also like to be able to leave windows open yet detect intrusions.


And yes - you can probably parallel all sensor outputs via diodes (eg, 1N400x) assuming all are grounding outputs like most door & hood & trunk pins etc.
However note local regulations. Some triggers may be be allowed to retrigger but others not. (If one-only alarm is ok, then no need to retrigger on later triggers.)

Too many sensors, they will all interfere with each other giving you loads of false alarms. 508d or glass break are all you need.
Doubt that there's any complicated circuitry between door pins and dome light or domelight exit delay, hence any one door pin will do.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

oldspark wrote:

---

The above result from years observing false triggers. Even today I rejoice at the odd glass sensor I set off because of my exhaust - it's not load, but probably a bit too oldskool and less mosquito farty - and also the odd same or movement sensor triggered by my passing wake.

---

Hate to say your exhaust isn't setting off glass break sensors, what your setting off is a shock sensor which is a common sensor on alarms.

Maybe, but apparently some did not have that. However I might have meant ultrasonic sensors.
I was thinking more of mechanically frequency responsive sensors and didn't consider the glass HP filters.

But it would surprise me if so many were shock sensors - tho there I do think more of tilt sensors - I'm not close and it's far from being a Harley, tho probably 2 in 3 times occurs in car park houses.


Thanks for your correction.
IMO is still shows why I dislike those other sensors (except on silent alarms - eg no local sirens); I'll leave shocks to camera security (they'll pay far quicker when I unexpectedly turn up LOL).