Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2001 corolla, dei 535t, viper 5706v

Who did your 5706 install? The 535T connects between the window motors and the switch of two doors. The install guide is pretty straight forward if you read it through and understand basic electrical theory.

Interfacing it with the alarm requires knowledge of the alarm installation and it's installation guide, which is why I ask who did the 5706 install. If it was done by someone else they would be better suited to patch the 535T into the alarm module unless you desire to explore by first obtaining an install guide for the 5706 and digging up wires and the alarm module.

Any further questions don't hesitate to ask.

Catback,
Thank for your prompt reply, 5706 was installed by an Audio shop i opted out from them installing me 535T as they wanted to charge me $300 just for installing that module saying that they will have to run wires for all 4 doors so i felt like i was getting ripped off and told them no to install the 535T.

For 4 doors you'll need two (2) 535T modules. Installs on simple/older cars can be done right at the drivers door, it sounds like your car is the more complex kind. While doable by a DIY'er, I wouldn't recommend it as someones first dabble into playing with car (12v) wiring unless they had someone with experience assisting them first-hand. Many wires to cut, run, and connect. Many trim panels to pop off as well from the sounds of it.

according to user manual it can control 4 windows in 1 direction or 2 windows in Both Direction so i believe i wont need 2 modules since i want the windows go up when i arm the alarm.
i will search around for professional doing this project but honestly i cant spend $300 just for installing this module in a 2001 corolla

you are right with the windows module you have it only requires one if you just want to go one direction. Like catback said it pretty straight forward, if you had done the alarm istallation i would make things alot easier too because you whould already know where everything is.

You have to go to the up motor wires in each door does that explain the $300?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll,
YES Id does explain the $300 but its too much for an older car like this whereas the resale value at the dealer is only $500 that was why i was looking for an alternative option

Age of the vehicle is completely irrelevant, it's the amount of labour involved.
Actually I just checked, yes they ARE charging too much, you only have to access the master switch in the driver's door.
2 hour job, say $200.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks for checking in my car wiring and figuring it out that it does not need the wires to run through all the doors, i will talk to the installers about it and see what they says.
I honestly appreciate your help sir

car got viper 5706v on 2001 toyota corolla. how can i make the dome light to work when the system arm and disarm the unit? also how to run a hood pin thank you

i have viper 5706v already installed in my Corolla 2001, but the previous installer didnt do it right, also they forgot to install hood pin so instead of the hood pin but i have tilt sensor already installed but whenever tilt sensor is triggered the alarm goes off but on my remote it says hood is open i believe wires been mismatched. so can anyone varify if wires has been really mismatched for the tilt sensor

Domelight output requires a relay connected to the blk/yel wire on the 24-pin harness.

The hood pin switch goes to gry wire on that same 24-pin harness.

stanward,
Thanks for the clarification but like i said previous installer has messed up something down the line since the car got the glass and tilt sensor but whenever tilt sensor is triggered when the car is jacked up but on the remote it says HOOD OPEN and as of right now i have the hood open even installed, and when glass sensor is triggered on the remote it says sensor 2

well i have been struggling to get answers specially knowing English is my 2nd language makes it hard for me to exactly address my issues anyways
i have viper 5706v installed in my car, got the glass sensor and tilt sensor modules but when tilt sensor is triggered, on my remote it displays as hood open, but when glass sensor is triggered it displays Sensor 2 and the installer did not even install the hood pin on my corolla 2001, so i believe installer used to hood wire to hook the tilt sensor, is there any other way out that the tilt sensor to be connect on it own and display sensor 3 when triggered, in that way i can have a hood pin installed and use the wire that is actually designated for the hood?

The 5706 has two sensor ports on it. So the shock sensor is probably plugged into the sensor one port and the glass break sensor is plugged into the second port. If the audio sensor is the 508t it comes with a t harness to where the glass break sensor and the shock sensor can share the same port. Then the tilt sensor can be on sensor 2. If he does not have the t harness then have the hood pin hooked up as it should be and have him use the instant trigger wire which is blue on the 24 pin connector.

dairyboy3,
thanks for being perfectly detailed in this topic and am going to print out your message and show it to the installer as today after work i am taking the car for installing dei 535t module and also fix other issues that previous installer failed to do it that included dome light supervision, so actually i have 506T I.T. Audio Sensor and 507M Tilt Sensor you think its going to be the same process as 508t? all i want is hood pin to be hooked up as well thanks for the cooperation i know its an old car but i love my corolla lol

Tilt sensor blue wire is probably connected to the hood pin wire on H2 and the GWA orange at H1 thus saying hood would be quite feasible.
Quick comment, if your dome light stays on when you shut the door and only goes out when you lock the vehicle, you don't need it, it's already there.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

And if your tilt sensor keeps triggering, make your installer cut the loops. It should also be mounted on a flat surface facing along the Corolla's front rear axis.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

so u meant i should tell the installer to join both tilt and hood pin together? or its possible to have tilt sensor on it own?
and for domelight yes it does go off when i lock the door but does not turn on when i unlock

OK, no tilt sensor has to join either trunk or hood triggers otherwise it won't set off the alarm.
Yes, then ask for dome supervision.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok i got you thanks for the help i will just show the installer your message and also i have trunk pop but when car is armed and i use the key to open the trunk the alarm never triggers but when i normaly open the trunk with the remote, the remote does show that trunk open

and actually yes my tilt sensor every now and than does trigger right after about 5 to 10 seconds when i arm the car

Does anybody know if its possible to get Map light (the light under the rear view mirror) work as dome like supervision if so where is the location of the wire or how to wire it

Do you really want to open up that mirror?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

sounds like its a complicated job? i thought may be its something similar to domelight supervision that uses door trigger

Separate circuits but you'll have to switch it on all the time then cut the ground wire coming from the rear view and connect to the dome light switched ground. From your various questions don't even go there. You've had it if it's grounded through the mirror base.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thought to update you guys anyways yesterday the installer worked on my car and only got the dei 535t done plus took him 2 hours, failed the dome light supervision nor did he manage to run wire for hood pin he was very reluctant to listen to me nor read the print outs i brought in telling me he has been doing this for 30 years and after getiing 535t done he tells me dome light supervision couldnt get it done cause car uses negative door trigger and requires relays and i had brought the relays as well and i told him everything was here on the print out but u never wanted to listen i am sure he felt stupid, that was the worst installer i have ever come across charged me $160 and than telling me driver side door motor is almost dying and that is why the driver window moves an inch or so, and stops while the rest 3 windwos work perfect and quote me another 160 to get the motor replaced overall not happy plus i see the wire going from the switch to the door between the door (over the hinge where the door is connected to the body) i HOPE with time those wires dont rip off due to the open and closings of the door

And also another question i was thinking about starter kill/anti-hijack kind of thing like is it possible to have something like whenever any of the door is opened and closed when car is on, the driver should press a hidden switch usually under the seat within 5 seconds or various chirps before the car turns off if the switch is not pressed the car turns off itself since the injector will stop receiving the power feed, sounds crazy but this just came to my mind as a better kill switch options unlike we see them online talking about physically turning on and off the switch to feed the power