2013 toyota tacoma remote start

I have a 2013 toyota tacoma that I am installing an avital 5303 alarm system. I am having problems getting it to crank. I wired the alarm according to the Omega wiring diagram but I read that it needs a flex relay system can someone post the diagram for this system. also in another posting I read that the Tx and Rx data has to be hooked up from the ECM located behind the glove box but the link to the pictures 4 the location did not work. I am using an xpresskit pkall.

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spartacus12

Here is a link to the IMI / IMO wires :  https://ftp.idatalink.com/Support/toyota%20imi_imo/Main.swf

You can also use this Fortin Key-OverRide-ALL install guide ( Connection Type 19 ) for your PKALL : 

 https://fortin.ca/download/7551/key-override-all_installation_guide_(new_look).rev-20130219.pdf

The  Key-OverRide-ALL modules wire colors might be different but the pin locations are the same.

The 5303 can directly support the Tacoma's IGN1, IGN2, ACC and Starter1 circuits with no programming changes.
For the Tacoma's Starter circuit you will need a 30/40 Amp SPDT relay, in-line fuse holder and a 20 Amp fuse.  Wire
as follows :
Relay Pin 85 to 5303 PURPLE (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON wire in the Remote start ribbon harness
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant through 20 Amp fuse
Relay Pin 30 to Tacoma Starter2 wire BLACK/ White (+) @ ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate

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Soldering is fun!

here is what i have so far:

Main Harness(h1) 12-pin connecor

h 1/1 RED / white (-) 200ma aux trunk release-n/a
h 1/2 red(+) constant power to white red at ignition wiring harness.
h 1/3 brown (+) siren output to red for siren.
h1/4 not used
h 1/5 black to chassis ground.
h 1/6 violet (+) door trigger to green yellow under dash
h 1/7 blue (-) instant door trigger to hood pin switch with diode.
h 1/8 green (-) door trigger input n/a
h 1/9 BLACK/ white(-) door light supervision n/a
h 1/10 white blue (-) remote start activation input n/a
h 1/11 white (+)(-) selectable light flash output to (+) green 13 pin connector front left fuse box.
h 1/12 orange(-) 500ma ground when armed n/a

h2 harness, 6 pin connector

h 2/1 blue (-) 200ma second unlock ouput n/a
h 2/2 WHITE/ black (-) 200ma aux 3 output n/a
h 2/3 violet/black (-) 200ma aux 2 output n/a
h 2/4 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200ma factory rearm output n/a
h 2/5 gray/black (-) wait to start n/a
h 2/6 light GREEN/ black (-) 200ma factory disarm output n/a

h3 harness remote start 5 pin connector

h 3/1 BLACK/ white (-)neutral safety switch input to ground
h 3/2 violet/white tachometer wire to BLACK/ white obdII pin#9
h 3/3 brown (+) brake shutdown wire to blue (+) at fuse panel
h 3/4 gray (-) hood pin switch input, zone 6 n/a
h 3/5 blue/white (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger n/a

h 4 aux4/horn, 2 pin connector

h 4/1 ORANGE / black (-) 200ma aux 4 output n/a
h 4/2 brown (-) 200 ma horn output n/a

door lock, 3 pin connector

1 blue (-) unlock output to gray at driver kick panel
2 not used
3 green (-) lock output to blue/white at driver kick panel

heavy gauge relay satellite

h/1 purple starter output to starter (starter side) GREEN/ black cut
h/2 green starter input from ignition switch (key side) GREEN/ black cut
h/3 red(+) 30a high current 12v input to white red
h/4 orange output to accessory circuit to WHITE/ green at ignition switch wiring harness
h/5 red(+) (30a) high current 12 volt to WHITE/ blue
h/6 pink output to primary ignition circuit to black /red
h/7 RED / white 30a high current 12v to white red
h/8 pink/white output to second ignition/accessory circuit to blue yellow
all these are at ignition switch harness.

relay satellite 4 pin connector

1 blue (-) 200ma status output to express kit blue/white wire
2 orange (-) 200ma accessory relay turn on n/a
3 purple (-) 200ma starter relay turn on n/a
4 pink (-) 200ma ignition relay turn on n/a

xpress kit

PURPLE / white rx data in to pink/blue pin 4 at steering column
yellow/black tx data out to lt. GREEN/ red pin 5
blue white (-) while running status to blue relay satellite 4 pin connector
green key sense to GREEN/ black (-) at steering column.


is this right? or am i missing something


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spartacus12

1.  Add the external relay and wiring listed above for the Starter2 circuit.

2.  Is the +12V WHITE/ Blue wire in the ignition harness thick or thin?

3.  H1/6 Violet is looking for a (+) door trigger input.  The Tacoma's GREEN/ YELLOW wire is listed as (-).  Test to
verify and if (-) connect it to H1/8 Green instead.

4.  Ensure the Parking Light jumper/fuse is set to (+).

5. PKALL connections are behind the Glove Box for "G" key vehicles ( IMI / IMO not RX / TX ).

PKALL install guide:  https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=196

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Soldering is fun!

thank you sir for the great info as i am a newbie. i will try this.

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spartacus12

the 12v blue wire is thick the rest of the connections for the door trigger i got already. the jumper is set to positive all that works but the pkall wires are different color than the fortin is that still ok and do i just go by the wire position.

6 pin connector. fortin

PURPLE / white PURPLE / white
yellow/black  yellow/ black
blue/white blue
green        green
pink  yellow
black        white

4 pin connector
red  WHITE/ black
green        black
black        pink/black
blue pink

found the IMI and IMO wires in the second black connector from the bottom on the ecm. is this ok.

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spartacus12

Yes, if you use the Fortin guide, go by the pin position as the wire colors are different between the PKALL and the Key-OverRide-ALL.

I'm assuming you have a 2013 Tacoma V-6 automatic trans truck.  The IMI / IMO wire connection point are different between the V-6 and the 4 cylinder engines.

Just as easy to go by the PKALL guide : https://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7017&productid=196&firmwareid=1636

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Soldering is fun!

Yes its the V6 with the g key

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spartacus12

hooked up all the wires to the express kit but i am not getting a light to program it. do i need to hook up anything else? thanks for the input.

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spartacus12

Describe the PKALL's Black four pin harness shown as Connector 1.  Is it cut for W2W mode or just connected to the D2D port on the Avital?  Does the Avital have +12V power?

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Soldering is fun!

got it working thanks for all your help. i really appreciate it.

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spartacus12

went over all my wiring and it was cut wire that was the problem. fixed that and everything worked great. there is a whooshing/sucking sound when you turn off the truck but on another post they said this was normal. is this true? thanks for all your help.

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spartacus12

hey kreg357 sorry to bother you again but i got everything working and tested it several times. it worked great then i put everything together and now it just cranks and wont start. what could be causing this.

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spartacus12

My gut instinct would be to review anything done after it worked last.  In this case securing / neatening-up and putting everything back together would be at the top of my check list.  This doesn't happen often if you position / cut to length / solder and insulate each connection. 

There would be a few areas of higher probability. 

First would be the transponder bypass ( PKALL ).  You can see if this is your problem by unplugging the power to the bypass module and holding a key at the ignition switch.  If the truck starts, check the bypass module and all its' connections.

Second would be a blown fuse going to the R/S unit.  I have seen where the slightly exposed metal tips at the fuse body can be inadvertently  be bumped against vehicle metal frame, blowing the fuse.  I always wrap the exposed fuse with a layer or two of Scotch Super 33+ to prevent this.  If all the fuses test good, then verify good +12V power at the R/S itself at all the +12V inputs, in case of a wiring connection problem or vehicle blown fuse.

Third is a problem with the Tach wire or connection.  Some R/S units that are programmed for Tach Mode and then loose the signal give similar symptoms.

Lastly would be an ignition wire connection problem.  As mentioned, this should not happen to a soldered-in R/S installation, but...

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Soldering is fun!

this is what i did i disoconnected the pkall tried to start it with the key and it did not start so i then disconnected the alarm and tried to start it again with the key this time it started but now when i connected the alarm brain again now it wont even crank im totally frustrated with this thing. thanks for your quick response will check all wire connections again.

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spartacus12

Be cautious with what you disconnect.  Remember that if you cut the Tacoma's Starter1 wire to make the 5303 H/1 Purple and H/2 Green connections, it will prevent a regular key start if the thick wire H connector is unplugged from the 5303.  Similar situation with the PKALL and its' Connector 3.  There you opened the vehicles IMI wire.  The relay that supplies the N.C. connection ( and allows a regular key start ) is inside the module(s).

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Soldering is fun!

ok thanks i will go over all the connections one more time but like i said now it doesnt even crank with the remote start so ill just go over what you said and hopefully it will work. thank you very much.

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spartacus12

hey kreg357 thanks for all your help. the problem was a bad wire connection at the ignition wiring harness. and now all i have to say is solder, solder, solder.

again thanks
and now i move on the tackling the active restraint system on my van headrest.

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spartacus12