ignition wire harness

Quick questions guys so in my alarm installation for my 97 accord, currently i have the accessories wire for my remote start to the ignition wire harness to the cable that provided power to my accessories, witch does not include my A/C (same harness different wire) so when i remote start my car it powers my radio, windows, accessories but not A/C witch is some what the point.

So i was thinking i can just change remote power wire to accessories to the cable that turns on my A/C but i was wondering if there was any way or what would be the best way to wire it up so both cables get power at remote start?

One has to ponder the worth of working windows, wipers, radio, and yada yada in an empty car.

If you want it that way you'll add a relay to power up the additional accessories wire. #86 & #87 to a fused +12v source, #85 to the RS Accessory (-) output, and #30 to your extra accessory wire.

i know what you mean by powering accesories in an empty car, but i have found it useful whenever im driveing with my family and i need to stop somwhere to get off the car and my wife and baby stay in the car, while i can remove the keys and take them with me. I want the A/C to work because oviously i dont want the car to get hot with my family inside and well the music helps my baby stay calm or to entratain her while im back.

So as you can see i have a reason behind wanting both to work, it not something of huge importance so if its not a must but i figured if i can make my family stay cool and entretained at the same time why not.

I always thought that car had a second ACC, Directwire says no.
Check your loom BLACK/ white = starter, BLACK / YELLOW = ignition, yellow -ACC and I'm guessing if there's a WHITE/ black that's your second ACC.
Don't confuse it with the white constant 12V+ supply.
If that's the case and you have it and it tests out that way and your unit is DEI, Viper , Clifford, Python etc. then simply connect the pink/white H3 lead to it You won't need a relay.
You go into the programming, Menu 3 Feature 8 and change it from the default second ignition 2 second ACC.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You are correct howie, in what noramally other cars have all in one my car has two but i guess is somewhat common otherwise DEI alarms would give that option, not sure what other models or cars use similar setup.

I do remember seing that option, will definatly look it up in my manul today and will let you  guys know how it turns out.

Hondas used a second ACC where other Japanese manufacturers used 2 x ignitions.
Probably to have extra functions such as windows, wipers etc. without having to turn the key past ACC.
My car's ignition loom has 3 x constants, starter, ignition 1,2 and 3 plus ACC which I have to treat as a second ignition 1 to fire the engine.
My car up to last week had 2 starters,3 ignitions and an ACC.
Many modern cars only a constant and an ignition, various DATA systems taking care of the rest until you take that too far as in the current GM ignition switch problem.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Many modern cars only a constant and an ignition, various DATA systems taking care of the rest until you take that too far as in the current GM ignition switch problem.

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I keep telling people the GM ignition switch issue isn't a problem, and it isn't a defect, it's a feature

Your honda has too many wires.

Actually agree you really need only two wires, output to control signal processor.
Edit push button switch driving a pic-axe. Data systems do the rest.
And wait for the East European software to remove your vehicle.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Linkarmy,

You didn't tell us what kind of remote starter you have installed, but unless it's something very old or very cheap, it should have, generally speaking:

An ignition output
An accessory ouput
A second ignition output, which usually can be changed in the programming menu to behave as an accessory output

It should be just a simple matter of programming your Ignition 2 as accessory, and connect it to the heater/AC wire in the car's ignition harness.

Otherwise, time to look through the Relays section of the site and consider doing it with a relay.

ok so i didnt have time to do it sooner but got it to work. I was not able to get that second accesorie wire to work though. Tested in just about every way and was never able to get any power thorugh those wires. Anyway i went with the first option witch was with the accessorie output and a relay witch worked perfectly.

On an other note witch cable would provide a single pulse negative output when arming the alarm? the only one im thinking at the moment would be the factory alarm arm but was not too sure if it was just a single pulsed negative.

Yes but again what alarm R/S are you installing?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

sorry python 5106

Either GREEN/ black factory disarm or GREEN / WHITE factory arm.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok so will they both trow a negative signal at the point of arming my alarm. Main reason i as is because i have the relays setup to leave my radio on until door open. So as you all know to activate my remote start i have to leave car running close door and arm. So my realays have no clue that i have actually left the car leaving my stereo on until i open my door.

My idea is to ad an other negative trigger to the relays that can act as if my door was opened to shut the relays down.

on second though that would also make my alarm think my door was opened disableing my remote start!!! Dang lol. Would adding a diode to the door trigger going to the relay prevent this? i think i just confused myself. anybody got any thoughts on this?

I'm confused, go back to Catbacks first answer, you're making this so complicated, also why should the R/S shutdown on opening the door?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

yea i got my self confused also.

First: so my remote start works fine and it is a manual car so i am required to do the stes to activate my MTS mode to be able to remote start my car. So to enable MTS i have to press remote button, take key off, get out of the car and then lock my car and then it shuts down.

Second: i have the two relays setup to leave my readio on until door open (relay diagram was used from here the12volt). So when i enable MTS im exiting my car while my car is running and then i close my door and the car is still running and then press the remote start button and car shuts down, leaving my MTS mode enabled to remote start. So the car was running with the door closed and then shut down. the relays are still on because after the car shut down the door was not opened anymore leaving my radio on until i open my door again. Hope this helps understand what im trying to solve.

Get rid of the relays. Why is it so important to have the radio running when the R/S is engageds, I know your answer but really?
They can't sit for two minutes with the radio off?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Get rid of the relays. Why is it so important to have the radio running when the R/S is engageds, I know your answer but really?
They can't sit for two minutes with the radio off?

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+1 on this

I also have to expand, if your leaving your family in the car why must and/or would you have the keys and arm the alarm with them in the car? I can understand if only kids are in the car but even in that situation A) You should not set the alarm as people in the car may open a door for a variety of reasons and set off the alarm needlessly, B) Kids should not be left alone in a car, and C) Your car is a manual transmission (gathered from earlier posts) and kids should not be left alone in a running car that has a manual transmission - bad and expensive things can happen in no time at all.

Catback is 110% right in the last post.
You're trying to gild the lily and in doing do will put your family in a dangerous position.
Never left kids or grandchildren alone in a car until they were about 14 and I'd already given them some basic off road lessons pointing out the dangers.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I think my first mistake was asking the second questions in the same post because you guys are now gettin the questions confused and i know a good part is my fault for not being able to explain myself.

1-my baby never stays alone in the car my wife is always with her and this is really helpful whenver we dont want to wake up the baby so i can go get something quick, it helps keep the A/C on in the 100 degree weather in Oklahoma.

2- I WOULD RATHER USE THE PIT STOP MODE, LEAVE MY WIFE IN MY CAR WITH A/C RUNNING, DOORS LOCKED. WHY? BECAUSE IF I LEAVE THE KEYS IN AND SOME THUG/DRUG ADDICT SEES THE CAR RUNNING AND NOBODY IN THE DRIVERS SEAT HE CAN JUST OPEN THE DOOR AND DRIVE AWAY WITH MY FAIMILY. Its been done here in OK so i rather have my doors locked. My wife knows she cannot open the doors and if somebody tried to open the door the alarm would go off and car will shut down.

Get rid of the relays. Why is it so important to have the radio running when the R/S is engageds, I know your answer but really?
They can't sit for two minutes with the radio off?

Howie to your comment that i am NOT trying to leave my radio running while R/S is enabled. Im trying to make it shut down when i enable my MTS. The reason why i have the relays is because of the same reason a lot of people use the realays, and if you dont know why people use the realys or dont think they are handy well you can either ask all the other people that use them why! Or take them off the website if they are not useful

OK, so let's start again what are you trying to achieve.
I think Catback and myself are somewhat confused here.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

yea i know and i do apologiese for all the confusion, i like this forum you guys are great at this and always very helpful.

So forget the first issue of the original post that has been solved thank to you guys. Let me give it a try once again to explain at my best. The "radio on until door open relays" are working great and my radio stays on until i open the door. Thing is when enableing my MTS mode (you guys already know the steps) i have to exit my car while it is running so the radio relays have not kicked in. I exit my car, close my door and lock so my alarm arms and shut down my car. The relays do not know about the alarm so they still think someone insisde just turned off the car and the door is closed and will not shut the radio off until door is opened.

You guys with me so far?

OK use either your factory arm or disarm whichever goes NEG when you lock the door, to trigger the relays. Diode separate it from whatever you're using now.
Alternative, 528t timer relay I think can be set for 5 minutes.
Or even more simple, an aux linked to R/S via relay (5 pin)timed say 90 seconds.
Just feed the radio from those sources as well as original source.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

yea fist thing im going to try is the factory arm way since i know where the cable is and it would be just a matter or routing it to the relay and adding a diode. Hopefully i will try this on the weekend.

Once again i wanna thank every one of you guys for all the help. I know you guys have no obligation on doing all of this so it is greatly appreciated.

If you hooked up the second acc relay as I indicated earlier and executed a proper MTS pit-stop procedure the radio would remain on for the duration of the remote start.

I know what your trying to accomplish and my thoughts are if you love your family and don't trust them to protect themselves in a situation then you shouldn't leave them alone in that situation. A thief that looks for running cars to steal never checks the ignition or door locks first. You family is safer with the car off in those situation because the peep has no clue if the occupants have the keys until they get close.

True. Better off leaving everything off and doors locked.
When my daughter was a little older she had two VERY protective German Shepherds for company.
At one she or my wife wouldn't have stayed in the car.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

You guys are still mixing the old original post with the last one. At theis point what i am trying to fix is the fact that when i enable MTS mode (example when i get to work if i enable MTS so i can start my car before i leave the building when im ready to go home so my radio stayed on the whole time i was at work right until the time i opened the door.

the second question has nothing do do with the first one but i do see your guys point and i will take in mind however the avility to acomplish what i am trying to do will certenly help in a lot of other situations and the fact that my family does not have to bear in the car in 100+ degree weather is a plus also.

Howie is on point for a solution with his post before last. You have a trigger going to your door to kill your makeshift RAP put a diode in that wire between the door and the makeshift RAP (relay) then connect the factory arm output of the R/S to the makeshift RAP (relay). The factory arm will trigger the "open door" action and the diode will prevent that signal from reaching other parts of the car, remote starter included.