2000 dodge dakota door locks

Hey Guys.. I plan on getting my girlfriend a Viper Remote Start/Keyless Entry.

She has a remote with keyless entry now.

I am reading a lot of different stuff on other forums.

Can someone explain to me what to do with the door locks?

https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/printlist.aspx?MakeID=16&ModelID=13790

Factory keyless entry follow the diagram indicated https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_DAKOTA_DAKOTA%203-5%20WIRE%20DOOR%20LOCKS%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf

Aftermarket keyless entry, piggyback on previous install.

catback wrote:

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Factory keyless entry follow the diagram indicated https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_DAKOTA_DAKOTA%203-5%20WIRE%20DOOR%20LOCKS%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf

Aftermarket keyless entry, piggyback on previous install.

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So I did see that.. however in the PDF is 3 diagrams.. Which one is the one I would follow for Factory Keyless entry?

WTH is a JBS unit?

You would use the top diagram.  I believe most Viper R/S units do not have on-board lock relays.

But as Catback previously mentioned, if you already have an aftermarket R/S w/keyless entry, I would investigate how that was installed and just use the door lock portion - controlled by the new viper.  It is likely external relays or hopefully a DEI 451M module.  Try looking under the dash to see what is currently installed.

Your truck is not a basic install.  There is a bit of learning curve required.  Plenty of research and reading needed.

Here are some sources for wiring info :

Here is a link to Bulldog Security :  https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Here is a link to Ready Remote :  https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp
Here is a link to AudioVox :  https://techservices.audiovox.com/AccessRequest.aspx    Sign-up & info is free.

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Soldering is fun!

Looks a lot simpler then my 2013 STi :P

So there is not aftermarket anything in the truck..

It is factory keyless entry.

So the top diagram seems simple enough.. Should I do quenching diodes to protect the R/S lock outputs?

I am reading on the forums that people are saying to use resistors... I am assuming they are talking about 2000 dakotas without factory keyless entry?

Not exactly.  Guess I misunderstood about an after-market system in the truck.  It's currently stock and only has
the Factory FOB's with remote keyless entry.  That will make things easier with a virgin vehicle.  No prior mess to
sort through.

You didn't mention which particular Viper remote start with keyless entry system you plan to use.  Lets assume a
basic model without an alarm, like the Viper 4606V.  Like most newer Viper units, this system only outputs a low
current (-) lock pulse.  While this is fine for most vehicles, the 2000 Dakota requires a rather unique interface.

The 1997 through 2000 Dakota has two types or door lock systems ( as viewed from the after-market installers
vantage point ).  A truck without Factory RKE has basic Type A (+) locks.  This setup needs a high current +12V
signal from the R/S unit.  Your truck with Factory RKE has a hybrid system known as "3/5 wire" locks.  The Lock
wire needs just a +12V pulse but the Unlock wire needs a +12V pulse applied to only the motor side of Unlock
wire.  The relay used does this when triggered by the Vipers Unlock output.  Neither Dakota model requires
resistor(s).  The next version Dakota ( 2001 - 2004 ) had a "single wire" lock system and does require resistors.

The easiest way to accomplish this is with the DEI 451M Door Lock Module.  They are very available from various
"online" sellers for less than $10.  This module has many feature that make the price very attractive.
1.  The 451M has a 3 Pin connector that allows it to plug in to the Viper unit directly at the Viper locks connector.
2.  The 451M is a compact module that makes the install easy and very neat.
3.  No need for coil quenching diodes.  The 451M is a sealed unit.

Here is a link to the 451M install guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726

Unfortunately, there is no diagram in the guide to show the exact wiring necessary for your truck.  It's Type A for
the Lock wire and Type C for the Unlock.  You can follow the Bulldog diagram as a guide.  Here is the specific wiring
for the 451M for your truck :

WHITE/ Black     not used
Green Black    to Dakota ORANGE / Violet @ Driver Kick Panel
Violet/Black     to +12V constant through 15 Amp fuse ( with 451M Violet wire - do not cut / separate )

BROWN / Black   to Dakota Pink/Violet @ Driver Kick Panel  switch side - cut wire
Blue/Black      to Dakota Pink/Violet @ Driver Kick Panel  motor side - cut wire 
Violet to +12V constant through 15 Amp fuse ( with 451M Violet/Black wire - do not cut / separate )

The 3 Pin connector just plugs into the Viper's 3 Pin Locks connector.  That's it.

Here is a link to a nice document that provides a lot of information about vehicle door lock systems and testing :
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=708  The vehicle info contained in this guide only goes to 2001.

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Soldering is fun!

Wow.. once again.. Thank you guys!

Yeah FKE so Type A lock and Type C unlock.. Got ya!

I may buy the module.

Hey guys, got the door locks and starter working... down to one thing.

The horn. I am using a Viper system and it gives me a negative output.

I found a BLACK/ red wire for the horn put it is always positive until to press the horn and then the circuit breaks.

Any idea how to get the horn working?

I need it because this is just a keyless entry system, no alarm and it i nice to hear it lock.

jsigna wrote:

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The horn. I am using a Viper system and it gives me a negative output.

I found a BLACK/ red wire for the horn put it is always positive until to press the horn and then the circuit breaks.

Any idea how to get the horn working?

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Hook your horn output to the BLACK/ red wire. The circuit doesn't break, it grounds out.

Thank you I will do that.

Guys the door locks were working... I don't understand what happened!

They were locking an unlocking fine with the DEI door lock module.

Now the remote start can't lock/unlock and the switch won't lock/unlock! I am loosing my mind! I went to check the fuse that says PWR Locks and it looks fine. When I pull it out the interior lights turn off.

Please someone help me out!!

Quick update.. The switch for the door locks don't work as well as the Viper remote anymore.

However the factory remote locks and unlocks the car perfectly.

I was thinking maybe I blew out the master switch in the driver side door?

The way I wired the DEI module was like this.. The ORANGE / Violet and Pink/Violet wires I was told to use to wire up to the the DEI door lock module were very visible on the factory door lock/window switch.

I followed the wires through the door grommet into the cabin. I tapped into the wires there.

Now one of the wires just T tapped right into the wire. The other wire had to get cut and one end went to one wire and the other end went to another wire (on the DEI door lock module).

It said motor side and switch side. This kind of confused me because both were coming from the door and I didn't know which end went where.

Anyways... I wired it the way that made more sense and it worked!

Hour later.. The switch and remote stopped working. WTH?

Could I have wired it backwards and blown out something?

I put the cut wires back together and left the one wire still T'd in (don't think that should cause an issue?)

Still no go on the door lock switch. Meanwhile the factory remote works fine.

Help! Lol Thanks in advanced.

Bump :(

Check all fuses

When testing remove/isolate all suspect installations aka remove t-tapped wire or otherwise ensure it is not contributing to the fault

The switch side of the ORANGE / Violet and Pink/Violet is the side the goes into the door.

Master switch is the passenger side switch.

When things are isolated and back to factory, test door switches with test light for correct operation.

Master switch is on the passenger side? Whoa!

I will go through all the fuses, there are not many I think I looked through 90%.

Do you guys know of any other fuses/relays?

Also here is my main question. Lets say I blew the switch/fuse/relay somewhere..

Does the DEI module utilize that stuff? I though that relay module powered the locks itself stand alone of the car side stuff?

My point is.. even if I blew something in the car.. shouldn't the remote start still control it? (I mean obviously not, but why not?)

You're tapped into the switch side of the lock system as a whole and as such your utilizing the rest of the lock system and running under the requirement that the rest of the system is normal and working. In other words, you don't have a direct connection and means to work the lock motors.

Your knowledge gives me goosebumps.

Okay.. so it's something on the factory side.

A small side note.. The passenger side window stopped working a day before I installed the remote start.

I wonder if the master switch has anything to do with that too, or if it is just coincidence and a normal regulator/motor issue?

Does anyone on here know if any hidden fuses or relays for the door locks? It's interesting how the factory remote locks and unlocks fine and the switches are just dead.. Too weird.

The window broke before you touch it so I'd stay that was a coincidence unless time travel becomes practically feasible in the next little bit.

Power windows and power locks are separated circuits so one doesn't affect the other.

The factory doesn't hide fuses but as you know your aftermarket installation has it's own fuses.

The factory keyless connects directly to what would be the BCM and actuates the locks that way. The "BCM" controls the lock motors directly.

Aside from possible blown fuses, if you wired the relay backwards/incorrectly you can in theory burn up switches and small wires. Hence the suggestion of utilizing a test light and checking the switches for proper power and function. Test lights can also make checking ATC and ATM fuses quick and easy instead of pulling them out, visually checking them, and then putting them back.

I tested the with a meter on those 2 wires I tapped into and it was showing like .20 volts.. I guess I should try to find the main power feed on the passenger side master switch.

So is the BCM separate from the door switch (and what I messed with).. basically what I am asking is do you think the BCM is okay?

Sorry for all the questions but your knowledge is huge for me.

There will be a power feed to both door switches.

The BCM is indeed separate from the door and is tucked behind the dash. The wiring you tapped into on the driver side leads to the passenger switch which progresses to the BCM which has direct connection and control of the lock motors.

As to whether the BCM is ok, most likely it is. It's hard to mess it up doing this kind of stuff.

You seem to really know these trucks..

You don't know which wires should be showing what voltage do you?

Each of the wires you tapped should show +12v when you hit the switch in the corresponding direction. +12v on the OR/VT during lock, +12v on the PK/VT during unlock. Red at the switch should be constant hot.

Just wanted to give an update and say thanks!

The harness plug connected to the master switch much of fell out.. When I pulled the passenger side master switch out it wasn't connected.

Door locks and Window now works!

Only other issue I had was with a CEL where the ECM and TCM were not communicating.

Did some research and it was due to a small gauge GREEN/ Red 3rd ignition wire that needed to be wired in.

I guess that wire ran to the transmission.

I used the Aux harness 2nd ignition output wire to power the 3rd ignition quenching relay.

The 2nd ignition used the flex relay so I don't see there being an issue using the "2nd ignition pink/white" wire.

I used 2 diodes to protect the remote start wire and one for 85 to 86.

All is working great now!

Even the horn.

Thank you so much!

Good Job, congrats on a job well done.

Yes! Everyone loves the horn, can't get enough horn.