Printer Friendly Forum Posts - remote start / stop, 99 lexus rx300

You will probably need a bypass module, too. The Fortin Key-OverRide-All is a good module and readily available for about $35.
Here is a link to the install guide : https://fortin.ca/download/699/key-override-all_lexus_rx300_(1999).rev-a.pdf

Here is a link to the full Compustar CS800-s Install Guide : https://techfeed.compustar.com/ft_controllers/manuals/CM800_Full_Install_V1.1_EN.pdf

Here are a few resources wiring guide sources :
The 12 Volt : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/vehicles.html
Bulldog Security : https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Audiovox : https://techservices.audiovox.com/AccessRequest.aspx Requires free sign-up.
DEI : https://www.readyremote.com/main.asp

Good luck with the install!

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Soldering is fun!

Keg I keep trying this link and it brings me back to your post. H.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry, sorted.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thank you for the links. I guess what threw me off was the manual says its for a CM800s and my unit says its a CS800s.

Gotta luv Compustar. They are referred to as CM800-s and CS800-s pretty much interchangeably. Then there is the 6000 series ( where they use FT, also ) and the 600 series plus all the Remote Kits...

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Soldering is fun!

I've been downloading their catalogs (you know why) and I'm soooo confused. posted_image

You know why.
Can't wait to play with the real thing though.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

kreg357 wrote:

Gotta luv Compustar. They are referred to as CM800-s and CS800-s pretty much interchangeably. Then there is the 6000 series ( where they use FT, also ) and the 600 series plus all the Remote Kits...

I kinda think maybe they call the control unit a CM800s which is used in the CS800s which is basically an installation kit.

I think i will give up a key instead of buying a bypass unit and the extra work. I only need one key anyway.

Your choice. For liability reasons, I always go with a data style bypass module.

You could buy a new un-cut transponder key off EBay for $8 and use this method to program it to the car.

Lexus 1999-2003 RX 300 Key Programming - For NEW UNCUT KEYS
Process works with all keys - remotes, valet, non-remotes

1. Enter the car with a working pre-programmed key and close all doors. Simultaneously depress and release both
    the brake and the accelerator pedals.
2. Within 5 seconds, insert the working pre-programmed key into the ignition. DO NOT TURN THE KEY.
3. Within 15 seconds of inserting the ignition key, depress and release the accelerator pedal 5 times.
4. Within 20 seconds, depress and release the brake pedal 6 times.
5 Within 10 seconds, remove the working pre-programed key from the ignition.
6. Within 10 seconds, completely cover the remote head off the pre-programmed key with aluminum foil, hold the
    head of the new unprogrammed and uncut key next to the pre-progammed key head and insert the pre-
    programmed key back into the ignition.
7. Depress and release the accelerator pedal one time. The security light should now begin flashing to indicate that
    the computer is reading the new key and programming the system.
8. Leave the pre-programmed key in the ignition for at least 60 seconds with the new unprogrammed key head still
    next to this covered pre-programmed key head. When the security light stops flashing, the programming process
    should be complete.
9. Test the new, uncut key. Place the pre-programmed key (still covered with the aluminum foil) into the ignition and
    verify that the SUV will not start since the transponder signal cannot be read. Remove the key and place the newly
    programmed uncut key next to the covered pre-programmed key head and insert the cut key into the ignition again.
   Turn the key and see if the SUV starts. If it does the new uncut key has been successfully programmed into the
    vehicle's electronics.

This way you still have two working keys and the key hidden in the car and used with the remote start can't be found
by a thief and used to steal your car. Of course, $8 for the key and $15 for the "key-in-the-box" universal bypass
module isn't that much less than a data style bypass module, which are more reliable in cold climates.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you for being so helpful. It's refreshing to see so many helpful members. Question, If i just use my spare key, do i still need this ... "key-in-the-box" universal bypass module ? I don't know what that is.

The "key-in-the-box" is the usual way to transfer the key's transponder chip info to the vehiles' antenna at the ignition switch, The most
common one is the DEI 556U. If you are proficient with soldering, have a relay and some 22+ gauge wire, you could do the "key wrap"
method. The 556U Install Guide is in the Downloads section.

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Soldering is fun!

Well if all of that is needed, wouldnt i be better off with a data style bypass module? and which one one you recommend Kreg?

Also, is the data bypass module vehicle specific? easy installation?

The Fortin Key-OverRide-All ( or PK-ALL ) mentioned earlier would be your best bet. Not a difficult install. Just follow the guide. That's the way I always do them.

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Soldering is fun!

One last question, ( hopefully ) lol... Using that method, if someone broke the ignition could he now easily steal the car since the immobilizer is bypassed?

The immobiliser is only by-passed when the remote start is in operation.
And don't forget the doors would still be locked.
No alarm so he breaks in, revs up or puts his foot on the brake, the R/S shuts down and the immobiliser is back on line.
In other words or in the real world the odds are no more or less than a "normal" break in.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I should have researched more before buying the remote start unit. I did not realize the hassle and extra cost of the bypass system. live and learn.

It's a good learning experience. posted_image

Knowledge is good.

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Soldering is fun!

Im thinking about this one for $20 and it seems fairly simple. ( Bulldog Security 791 Universal Remote Start )

Same as the 556U from what I've heard, not as good. A data bypass is far more reliable.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I have used the 791 bypass module before. They are slightly more expensive than the DEI 556U ( because they include Passlock & VATS bypass capability ) but work well. Just be sure you get the bypasses antenna loop properly positioned and secured on the ignition switch. If you're not in a cold area, you should have no problems.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok I ordered the 556UW for only $13 shipped. Thats cheap... Thanks for all of your help.

Hi, I have wired in almost everything for my remote start / keyless entry in my 99 lexus RX300. Im using the compustar CS800S and the DEI 556uw bypass. Keep in mind im no professional and this is my first remote install. I did not know that this vehicle is harder to add the keyless entry because it has a door ECU in each door. It appears that for me to control the door locks, i would need to run a lock and unlock wire through each door which seems impractical and a lot of work. Im enclosing 2 images. I cut the grey wire between the LSW and lock so the factory alarm hopefully won't interfere with the locks operation. Please help me with details. I want to use the first pulse to unlock only the drivers door and the second for the others but im just not clear on exactly what to do now.
posted_image

To do what you require you will need to run a relay as well from your unlock as per 5 wire to the driver door motor wires.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I think you will be wasting your time, Directechs doesn't even give a listing for motor wires.
Actually it's quite easy to get into the doors, in fact I've done a right hand drive version which didn't even need the relay.
I simply followed the loom to the rear of the door and caught those wires (lock/unlock in the loom just before it entered the actuator.
Extending the lock pulse (comfort close) closed the windows and roof.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Im not following you. Can someone tell me how can i control the door locks when the control unit is in the doors as well as the wiring between the unit and locks?

Ive seen others post that it was easy so im sure they didnt run wires to each door to bypass the ecu. I cant see having to carry 2 remotes just tp start it and the other to unlock doors. On another note, I cant even get it started. lol... and its not throwing any codes. It flashed one time like its supposed to when i sinked the tach. It just goes through 3 series of cranking and never starts. The manual says it will flash 3 times when theres a fault. And then flash a number of times signaling the fault. It flashes 1 time like everything is fine but never starts. I guess im just lucky.

bobster0007 wrote:

Im not following you. Can someone tell me how can i control the door locks when the control unit is in the doors as well as the wiring between the unit and locks?

If you look at your wiring diagram for the car, you'll note the driver door ecu. If you look beneath it at the next box that has the lock motor and lock/unlock, you'll notice that it's separate from the ecu and appears to be connected by wires to the driver door ecu. This in fact is what you'll see inside the door. Howie is explaining that you tap those wires (between the lock motor assembly and the driver door ecu).

catback wrote:

bobster0007 wrote:

Im not following you. Can someone tell me how can i control the door locks when the control unit is in the doors as well as the wiring between the unit and locks?

If you look at your wiring diagram for the car, you'll note the driver door ecu. If you look beneath it at the next box that has the lock motor and lock/unlock, you'll notice that it's separate from the ecu and appears to be connected by wires to the driver door ecu. This in fact is what you'll see inside the door. Howie is explaining that you tap those wires (between the lock motor assembly and the driver door ecu).

So if i tap those wires, everything will work properly? The door ecu wont have a problem with an external pulse? This will not cause any alarm issues?

Done, correctly you'll be mimicking what happens electrically when you turn the key in the door. That said I make no guarantees of anyone else's work.

From the diagram lock wire is pink, unlock pink/blue.
Lock wire to pink unlock via relay cuts either blue/red or blue / YELLOW, whichever goes live on unlock, second unlock to pink/blue that will give you your second unlock.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I still cant get it to start. When i use the ignition key, I notice the security light does not flash. When i use the remote start button, I notice the light still flashes. Could the security light flashing mean the immobilzer is not letting the car start?

ok not the problem cause i inserted key and light stopped flashing.still no start.

Im disappointed in this forum and let me tell you why. This thread has has 932 views and only a couple people have offered a few fleeting vague comments knowing i know virtually nothing on this subject. I believe that its connected properly but i dont know the troubleshooting steps to track down the problem. I can assure you that im no sponge or tard and offer help to others on the daily on other forums where i have knowledge and skill.I guess if you guys like coming on here for entertainment thats ok too. Sad but ok with me. I need a purpose for doing something, getter done kind of thing. Anyway, you can remove this thread and myself as I see no reason to come back here for any real help.If your'e happy, Im happy for ya! Good luck to us all!

Well that's sad but such is the free internet forums. 932 doesn't mean 932 people have seen the thread and considering this forum is more filled with people that need help than people scouring to offer help number of views really mean nothing. But if your disappointed in not getting a response within 24 hr's then so be it, the "help" usually have day jobs that pay actual money and can't commit to a 24-hr response guarantee.

If you want to have us help troubleshoot, how about telling us what you installed, how it's installed (wired), and what is and isn't happening. "Won't start" is a VERY vague assessment.

bobster0007, views include all views. These include search engine spiders/web bots, members, non-members, and your views. You've received replies and help from some of our most knowledgable members. Your frustration is understandable, but it seems to be misdirected.

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posted_image

the12volt • Support the12volt.com

catback wrote:

Well that's sad but such is the free internet forums. 932 doesn't mean 932 people have seen the thread and considering this forum is more filled with people that need help than people scouring to offer help number of views really mean nothing. But if your disappointed in not getting a response within 24 hr's then so be it, the "help" usually have day jobs that pay actual money and can't commit to a 24-hr response guarantee.

If you want to have us help troubleshoot, how about telling us what you installed, how it's installed (wired), and what is and isn't happening. "Won't start" is a VERY vague assessment.

I have actually listed everything that you mentioned here and it has been way longer than 24 hrs. I will be glad to list details once again as the thread is getting long. 1999 lexus RX300. compustar CS800s just a cheap 0ne way remote and keyless is all i need. I wired in a DEI 556uw. It reads the tach ( based on the manual )and flashes once before going through the 3 start cranking series. If there is a problem in the system, the lights should flash 3 times then pause and flash a number of times for certain codes. I tried inserting my ignition key and that dont help. The 556 is a simple unit but i dont know if it is actually operating properly and dont know how to check if the signal is recieved etc... Its frustrating because i do have some electrical skills but not this type of electronics. And i have not even addressed the door locks which i see is going to be another issue with this car having door ecu units to overcome.

the12volt wrote:

bobster0007, views include all views. These include search engine spiders/web bots, members, non-members, and your views. You've received replies and help from some of our most knowledgable members. Your frustration is understandable, but it seems to be misdirected.

Yes i have received some replies, none that helps me systematically track down the problem... I have a paypal account will gladly send some $$$ for a resolution.

when you inserted the key into the ingition and tried to remote start the truck did you still have the 556U plugged in and the antenna around the ingition ? If so you need to unplug the 556 and try it with the key in the ingition (not turned at all just slid into the cylinder) If it starts with the key in the ingition then you know the rest of your wiring is good. If not then we need to look into the rest of your wiring to make sure it is correct.

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

chev104275 wrote:

when you inserted the key into the ingition and tried to remote start the truck did you still have the 556U plugged in and the antenna around the ingition ? If so you need to unplug the 556 and try it with the key in the ingition (not turned at all just slid into the cylinder) If it starts with the key in the ingition then you know the rest of your wiring is good. If not then we need to look into the rest of your wiring to make sure it is correct.

Ok I unplugged the 556 unit and inserted my key in ignition. It still just cranks a series of 3 tries but no start. Are you sure the transponder in the key should transmit signal to immobilizer unit just from being inserted in cylinder and not turned? I have re checked the wiring and can see nothing wrong?

yes the truck should start with the key inserted into the ingition not turned. I would double check the remote start wiring to make sure it does the same thing as the key does (Ingition acts as Ingition and ACC acts as ACC). Another thing where did you grab Tach From ? Did you proform Tach Learn procudure ? But from your above post about the theft light flashing it would indicate the truck isnt seeing a valid key. This could be because somthing isnt getting powered up correctly or the bypass module isnt working.

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

chev104275 wrote:

yes the truck should start with the key inserted into the ingition not turned. I would double check the remote start wiring to make sure it does the same thing as the key does (Ingition acts as Ingition and ACC acts as ACC). Another thing where did you grab Tach From ? Did you proform Tach Learn procudure ? But from your above post about the theft light flashing it would indicate the truck isnt seeing a valid key. This could be because somthing isnt getting powered up correctly or the bypass module isnt working.

I rechecked with test light at the ignition harness. All check good except i do not have the blue wire connected to anything because it appears that its only for powering up accessories. Description reads = positive 12v 0+) output that powers up during remote start. The behavior of this wire is selectable by a jumper inside the control module. By default the wires power up as a second ignition trigger. It is changeable to a 2nd starter or 2nd accessory. All other 7 of the 8 pin ignition connecter check out.

Please connect the second ignition also helps to start the vehicle, injection etc.
If it powers up with the key, logic says use it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Please connect the second ignition also helps to start the vehicle, injection etc.
If it powers up with the key, logic says use it.

I connected to the blk/wh IGN 2 wire and pushed the remote start and it just kept cranking, i had to pull the compustar connecter to make it stop cranking.

does that suggest that the default jumper is not set to ignition? is set to starter setting?

Not sure, I'd set it as second ignition if that's how it tests.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I opened it up and it is set to 2nd Ign. as default just as stated in the manual. This dont make any sense.

please tell me your testing these wires before connecting to them. According to the wiring diagram BLK/WHT is the starter wire. So if you connected the ing2 output of the remote start to your starter wire then that would explain your continuous cranking.



DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - LEXUS / RX 300 / 1999 / Remote Start

[PRINT THIS PAGE]

12volts WHITE/ red (20A) + ignition harness
Starter BLACK/ white + ignition harness
Second Starter N/A
Ignition black or BLACK/ red + ignition harness
Second Ignition BLACK / YELLOW + ignition harness
Third Ignition N/A
Accessory pink + ignition harness
Second Accessory N/A
Keysense blue - ignition key switch
Power Lock pink (key lock) and gray (lock detection) TecDoc1070 Driver Door ECU in door
Power Unlock pink/blue (key unlock) and gray (lock detection) TecDoc1070 Driver Door ECU in door
Lock Motor
Unlock Motor
Parking Lights+ green + driver kick, gray 12 pin plug, pin 10
Parking Lights- GREEN/ red - headlight switch
Hazards
Turn Signal(L)
Turn Signal(R)
Reverse Light
Door Trigger RED / white - ignition key switch light (reads delay)
Dome Supervision use door trigger
Trunk/Hatch Pin WHITE/ red - Body ECU under driver dash, white 21 pin plug, pin 5
Hood Pin RED / blu or RED / wh (need to diode isolate from ECU) - Body ECU under driver dash, white 21 pin plug, pin 6
Trunk/Hatch Release
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock
Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock
Disarm No Unlock use keysense
Tachometer orange ac right of fuse box, white 10 pin plug, pin 9
Wait to start N/A
Brake Wire GREEN / WHITE + brake switch or driver kick, gray 12 pin plug, pin 9
Parking Brake RED / black - parking brake switch
Horn Trigger WHITE/ red - steering column

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

Ok Joe, I will fix that in the morning cause its raining hard here right now, and report back with my results. Dont know if anything will change but at least the engine wont keep cranking. lol. . Here is the diagram i pulled from this sites downloads section. As you see, the starter and Ign 2 is listed as the same wire. I guess ive gotten so frustrated i missed that mistake. posted_image

You need to test each wire before connecting to it . I test even if I've done the truck/car 100 times before. I would go over each connection individually with multimeter and make sure they match what the key does. The diagrams are just guides they can be wrong. I always power everything at the ignition switch same as the key would do. That way you can avoid issues. We need to get the basic wiring correct before we can tackle anything else. Good luck

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

Thanks Joe, for some reason i didnt think the ign 2 wire was needed and i dont know why i thought that. remote start works now. Any help with the door locks? unfortunately, this car has a door ECU in each door. I would like to have drivers priority set for the locks. ps..... i need your paypal address and i will send you $20 for lunch.

Glad you got it working. I appreciate the offer but that's what this forum is for. As far as the locks I will need to wait till I get home check my notes. I haven't been inside a rx300 in 10 years. If I remember right you will need at least 1 relay and diodes to interface with the locks. Then adding drivers door priority you will need a relay to control just the drivers door lock actuator. I won't be home till later on this evening out doing mobile installs. Typing this from my phone

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

chev104275 wrote:

Glad you got it working. I appreciate the offer but that's what this forum is for. As far as the locks I will need to wait till I get home check my notes. I haven't been inside a rx300 in 10 years. If I remember right you will need at least 1 relay and diodes to interface with the locks. Then adding drivers door priority you will need a relay to control just the drivers door lock actuator. I won't be home till later on this evening out doing mobile installs. Typing this from my phone

Thank you very much. I will wait for your info. Please be detailed as you know im not real sharp. lol...thanks again!

ok for the locks you have the diagram you need on page 4 of this post. You will need to run wires through the door jam into the door. To test these wires don't use the rocker switch on the door test them by turning the key in the drivers door. You will also need a relay and some diodes (something like 1N4001 will work fine for this application). If I remember correctly there is a thick Constant power at the window switch you can use for pin 85 of your relay just remember to fuse it between the relay and the power wire. once you have the locks working correctly we can move on to the driver door priority portion. For drivers door priority you will need another relay and will need to 5 wire the motor wire. I've never done drivers door priority on one of these trucks and none of my diagrams list the motor wires so you will need to test to figure out what is what there. Good Luck

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

Ok I will give it a go after i order the parts. Thanks

Constant power to pin 85 Joe posted_image

The OP's previously posted wiring diagrams give us the required posters, OP needs to test.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ha ha yea I said 85 because it was the one used in the diagram didn't want to cause anymore confusion. Yea he needs to do some leg work

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

What are you guys saying?

What relay do i need? You said PN 1N4001 for the diodes.

Standard Bosch type automotive type relay 5 or 4 pin will work for this application. I don't have a part number handy for those.

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

Here's how to do priority unlock using the lower diagram you supplied on page 4:rx_300_prriority_unlock.png
Yes it's in the driver's door and you will have to pass through three wires, dead easy if you have any WD40.
Unplug the door wiring plugs in the driver's kickwell and pull them out to the door. Spray WD40 into the exposed tubing and push -pull use welding rod into the door being careful to miss any moving parts in the door. SIMPLE.
I'm still not sure since your unit is an R/S not R/S with security that you need to do what's in the Avox diagram you might just try grounding the marked (-) lock and unlock wires first to see what happens. I did a UK spec RX 300 and that's all that was needed, in fact extending the lock time gave me window and roof close.(Comfort control).

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Howie now that you say it the last one I did worked the same way. I also extended the pulses for comfort close.

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

Always ignored that relay diagram. Except you MUST go into the door. Are you reading and even understanding this bobster?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Always ignored that relay diagram. Except you MUST go into the door. Are you reading and even understanding this bobster?

Ok Howie, Is everything in that diagram all i need to do? One question, On the relay, is power supplied to 87,85 and 86? Thanks

If you have to ask that question don't even try to attempt it. Power is supplied to 87 and 86. The unlock wire from the R/S NEG (-) goes to 85.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Just 86 and 87

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If i Can't Install it I Don't need it Joe

Ok i got it. I read it wrong. I can and will handle this. I have everything except the diode so i will have to wait until radioshack opens probable tuesday. I will report back. Thanks guys!

Just to clarify, The motor wire, unlock, lock wire connections must be made between the door ECU and the lock itself not at the combo switch. Correct?

Between the ECU and the combo switch.
Frankly wherever you can get at the wiring the easiest way.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

Between the ECU and the combo switch.
Frankly wherever you can get at the wiring the easiest way.

The lock function works on 3 doors not drivers. The unlock function does not work on any door. Oh well, more wasted time. The following is copied here from another member from way back. I guess i will try it next.

HOW TO DO KEYLESS ENTRY:

It's a little tricky, but not hard once you understand how the system works. I forget the wire colors, but I'll give you an overview and you'll be able to find them yourself.

First, find and test these three wires---they should all be at the power window switch:

Lock wire---it tests by twisting the key in the door, NOT by using the rocker switch.

Unlock wire----again, it tests with the key in the door.

Unlock detection wire----often, but incorrectly, called the "child safety wire:" This wire will show a ground if the doors are unlocked; and be dead (or nearly dead) with the doors locked.

HOW TO UNLOCK:

This is the easy part. Take your unit's negative unlock output, split it with two diodes. One side goes to the unlock detection wire, and the other goes to the unlock wire. When the car sees both wires go negative at the same time, the door(s) and hatch will unlock.

NOTE: If you do this in the passenger door, all doors open on a single pulse. If you do it in the driver's door, only the driver's door unlocks on the first pulse; a second pulse unlocks all the others. Also, in either case, this disarms the factory alarm too. Furthermore, as long as the motor's not running, the factory domelight supervision kicks on too. NOTE: I use Audivox units with strong 300ma lock/unlock outputs.......if yours is weaker, you may need to use a relay to give enough strength to power up both of these wires at the same time.

HOW TO LOCK:

A little trickier here, but not too bad. Two things need to happen to lock the car-----the unlock detection wire must go dead, AND the lock wire must see a ground, at the same time. To do this, you'll tie your unit's lock wire into the car's lock wire, AND at the same time, to the 85 terminal of a relay.............

Cut the unlock detection wire in half. One side to 30 of your relay, the other side to 87a---doesn't matter which is which. 87 will be unused. For the constant power you need for the 85 terminal, there's a thick constant wire at the power window switch----no need to run your own wire from inside the car for this.

So, here's how it happens: When the user presses Lock on his remote, the lock wire in the car sees a ground, and the relay temporarily interrupts the unlock detection wire, fooling the car into thinking it has gone dead, and thus the doors lock. Also, this arms the factory alarm.

Take your unit's negative unlock output, split it with two diodes. One side goes to the unlock detection wire, and the other goes to the unlock wire.

( Above )Can someone tell me which way does the band on the diodes point when splitting?

Away from the lock and lock detection wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Well I did as the guy said and once again nothing good for me. I only tried the unlock first which is rather simple. I connected the units unlock wire after splitting off via 2 diodes with the band toward the unit. One wire to the unlock wire and other to the lock detection wire. I hear the unit's relay click when i press the unlock button but no lock movement. I thought maybe the signal was too weak to trigger both wires so i physically grounded the wire on the side of the unit and the drivers lock sounded like it cycled but none others did and no door actually locked. This doesnt seem that complicated but i cant seem to make this work. Any other suggestions?