2012 civic remote start

My step-daughter asked me to install a remote car starter in her 2012 Honda Civic(automatic). Although I've never done an install on a Honda, it looks pretty straight-forward. I just want some reassurance on my install and maybe some tips. I plan on installing an Compustar FT-6200s using a FLCAN bypass d2d(flashed with ADS protocol of course).

Sorry if the images I clipped from my Excel spreadsheet appear kind of small. It's the only way I could post it.

That car doesn't have built-in Anti-Grind, so you might consider using the supplied Starter Kill relay and cutting the Civic's Yellow Starter wire.

Also, beware that most of the vehicle wiring ( door locks and transponder ) is very thin gauge.  Just did a few 2014 Accord's and either I'm getting old or they are down to about 28 gauge for a lot of the vehicle wiring........ 

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Soldering is fun!

I wasn't sure if the car already had anti grind protection built in or not. Now that I know it doesn't, I'll probably do the anti-grind relay.

Thanks for the heads-up on the thin wires. Nothing worse than having to stand on your head under a dash and strip a 22ga wire using only one hand. Ugh! Sometimes I wonder if it's not just easier to cut, strip, resplice and heatshrink.

Shafferny the second method is far better but time and "getting at" are against us. Kregg and I both now use magnifying glasses!
One European GM car uses a 57 pin quadlock plug BEHIND the fusebox/BCM with multiple colour repeats. I spent 6 hours last winter tracing the car only staring in get you home mode because I'd broken a thin CAN wire whilst soldering to it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Which brings up another question...how do you go about insulating these extremely small wires so you have a fully insulated wire and something that's secure? With these wires getting smaller and smaller, the insulation is no longer just for insulating the conductor, but for structural integrity as well. I usually put a small zip tie 3-4" up from the splice and then tape or heat shrink over the connection. Sometimes the tape gets bulky and sloppy because the wires are so darn small but I really haven't come up with anything better.

BTW, do all my wiring connections look good for this particular install?

Zip tie second.
My favourite. Cut OEM wire, wire to be joined, strip 10mm (c. 3/8) an inch back solder one side of cut wire to the stripped portion, heat shrink then slide a fresh piece of heat shrink over then butt joint soldered to other end of cut OEM wire and last slide and heat the heat shrink over that last joint.
Wait until you get to do an E46 BMW or getting at wiring on a VW down adjacent to the throttle in a right hand drive version.
Talk about eye, shoulder and muscle strain.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sorry, got carried away complaining about those thin gauge wires...

Your listed connections are correct.  The ADS AL-CA w/HA3 install guide should be very accurate for the wires they
list in the Type 2 diagram. 

A few notes...
1.  Looks like you want to go with D2D.  Default Compustar FT6200s programming is for Tach Mode, but you must
     still do the Tach Learn procedure.   Very easy with the Compustar.
2.  The bypass module should supply the foot Brake signal via D2D, so no need to hardwire to the Civic.
3.  If you want Horn confirmations from the Compustar, connect the Horn output to the Civic.  Easy to find in the
     steering column.
4.  You can update the Firmware on the Compustar without a Blade module installed using your ADS USB cable.
     Current Version is 7.15.  The big bonus is that while you are there, you can also make any necessary changes to the
     4 programming tables plus Special Option Group 2.  PM me if you need more info.
5.  Which brings us to the Rear Defrost.  Here is the info from AudioVox :
     Rear Defrost  LIGHT GREEN  (-)  @ MICU MODULE AT REAR OF INTERIOR FUSE BOX UNDER DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH
     Just choose one of the un-used POC's, set it to Defrost Type 17 in the Special Options Group, set Menu 3-14
     and connect the corresponding wire to the Civic.  Without a Temp Probe, you can only do a fixed time after a
     remote start.  Could install a Winter/Summer switch if you felt the need.

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Soldering is fun!

Don't laugh Kregg but Woof l and 2 have the rear defrost aka HRW in the Queen's English come on automatically when the temperature goes to 51f. or below.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

kreg357 wrote:

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Sorry, got carried away complaining about those thin gauge wires...

Your listed connections are correct.  The ADS AL-CA w/HA3 install guide should be very accurate for the wires they
list in the Type 2 diagram. 

A few notes...
1.  Looks like you want to go with D2D.  Default Compustar FT6200s programming is for Tach Mode, but you must
     still do the Tach Learn procedure.   Very easy with the Compustar.
2.  The bypass module should supply the foot Brake signal via D2D, so no need to hardwire to the Civic.
3.  If you want Horn confirmations from the Compustar, connect the Horn output to the Civic.  Easy to find in the
     steering column.
4.  You can update the Firmware on the Compustar without a Blade module installed using your ADS USB cable.
     Current Version is 7.15.  The big bonus is that while you are there, you can also make any necessary changes to the
     4 programming tables plus Special Option Group 2.  PM me if you need more info.
5.  Which brings us to the Rear Defrost.  Here is the info from AudioVox :
     Rear Defrost  LIGHT GREEN  (-)  @ MICU MODULE AT REAR OF INTERIOR FUSE BOX UNDER DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH
     Just choose one of the un-used POC's, set it to Defrost Type 17 in the Special Options Group, set Menu 3-14
     and connect the corresponding wire to the Civic.  Without a Temp Probe, you can only do a fixed time after a
     remote start.  Could install a Winter/Summer switch if you felt the need.

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2. Good catch. Just so used to connecting it that I forgot the FLCAN handles that.

3. Looks like it's a (-)orange wire at the horn according to the wiring on commandocaralarms.com I'll have to test it just to be sure...that is, if she wants it hooked up.

4. I just did this on my wife's '09 Wrangler. I updated the firmware on the CM6200 and flashed the ADS-AL CA bypass. I REALLY like the fact you can set the special options that way. This is also part of the reason I stopped using DEI stuff. The Compustar stuff is soooooooo much more user friendly!

5. If I have time with her car I'll look for the defrost wire and try to hook it up. If not, I'll at least set the program option that way I can always do it at a later date.

One other thing, I saw that the truck release doesn't work while remote started. I read somewhere that there's a green wire(+) in the driver's kick(I think) that can be triggered. I should be able to wire the GREEN / WHITE wire(pin 6 of the CN1 connector) to it for the trunk release as long as I change the internal jumper on the CM6200 to "trunk release" instead of "parking light output".

howie ll wrote:

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My favourite. Cut OEM wire, wire to be joined, strip 10mm (c. 3/8) an inch back solder one side of cut wire to the stripped portion, heat shrink then slide a fresh piece of heat shrink over then butt joint soldered to other end of cut OEM wire and last slide and heat the heat shrink over that last joint.

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I think I used that method when I botched one of my early installs. I used a low wattage soldering iron on a 12ga ignition wire. I melted the insulation before I could manage to flow the solder. Long story sort, I ended up replacing a section of the ignition harness by using this method.

I like the Compustar to beep the horn on the second lock press.  I usually end up using the Compustar remote
all the time and like that audible feedback ( especially for a PitStop ).

Here is the info on the Trunk Release fro Audiovox :
Trunk Release  GREEN  (+)  @ MICU MODULE AT REAR OF INTERIOR FUSE BOX, UNDER DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH
Be real careful when probing for this wire.  Try to get a better location ( Plug & Pin ) and only use a DMM.  Honda's
have been known to have a major BCM failure when testing for this wire ( usually in Accord's ).

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Soldering is fun!

That's scary! Maybe I'll leave well enough alone and not mess with it. :-)

FWIW, I came across Kenny's write-up for the '07. That should help somewhat. Might not be 100% dead-on with the 2012, but it should be similar.

2007 Honda Civic

Yes, Kenny has a nice photo of the (+) Trunk Release wire.  As you can see, there are several green wires in that bundle.  The correct one is slightly paler green and has two silver hash marks on it.  Of course the 2007 is an 8th gen and your 2012 is a 9th gen model, so it might look different.

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Soldering is fun!

I have to admit that getting to wires on that box on gen 7/8/9 are all PITA.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.