2010 town and country precision 500 alarm

i am installing a scytek precision 500 alarm on a 2010 chrysler town and country van. I hooked up everything according to the the ol-mdb-all bypass module diagram. (bench wired everything before installation.   The only thing I had left was the can wires and the wires going to each side of the ignition key harness, the mux wire and the door trigger wire. I also had the two 12volt wires going to the battery and the siren and hood trigger wires going to the engine compartment.   I hooked up everything but could not get the bypass light to turn on. the only thing i am getting is a faint whistle/chirp from the alarm. am i missing something?

https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-CH4/OL-AL(MDB)-CH4-EN_20140714.pdf

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spartacus12

There are a few things you can check / verify.

1.)  Verify that the OL-AL(MDB) bypass module is flashed with the correct firmware for your van.  It should be
       OL-AL(MDB)-CH4-EN.  There should be a white sticker on the box indicating what was flashed at the Factory
       prior to shipment.  If you have the ADS USB cable and flahed it yourself, ignore #1.
2.)  You didn't mention if you wired it as D2D or W2W.  I am not a SkyTek user, so I don't know if they are D2D
       capable / compatible with the OL-AL(MDB)-CH4-EN firmware.   If you wired it as W2W, it doesn't matter, it
       will work, just make sure to set the Installation Mode correctly ( either Data or Standard ) as shown on Page 7
       prior to vehicle programming.
3.)  There are two Pictorials on this van.  One using the ADS AL(DL) CH4 with early Firmware in W2W mode and one
       using an EVO-ALL in W2W mode on the slightly different, newer style van.  They show the important vehicle
       wires and could assist in verifying your connections.   https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130163

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Soldering is fun!

i wired it w2w and did it just like the pictorial. i tried the programing instructions it did blink twice green for w2w but i dont think i confirmed it in time and the light went red and now i cant get it to blink green again


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spartacus12

according to the box the firmware is ch4 2.5.

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spartacus12

if i do a factory reset will it erase the firmware

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spartacus12

No.  The flashed firmware will remain intact.

Try starting the programming process over again, starting with a Factory Reset.  Then select  & lock in Standard Mode ( 2 blinks ).  Next connect the rest of the harnesses and do the final programming step with the key and the Unlock button.

Version 2.5 is a little out of date ( it will still work ) and uses a different install guide.  The correct guide number might also be on that white sticker.  If it isn't, try comparing the guide you used to Guide # 8514.    https://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-CH4/OL-AL(MDB)-CH4_20120227.pdf

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Soldering is fun!

Hey kreg357 thanks for the info. your link did not work though. I got the module programmed and the van starts the hatch feature opens the hatch but when i tried to arm it the alarm would just go off so i disconnected the rearm wire to the door trigger and that got the alarm working but the door locks still do not work. I'm wondering if it would be ok to just wire the door lock wires direct to the vehicle instead of to the bypass module with the proper resistors?

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spartacus12

Sorry about the link.  Try this one and type in the guide number ( 8514 ) in the Search Guide Number box. https://www.omegaweblink.com/support   Don't think there are any wiring changes but its best to double check.

Anyway, as per the guide, you should have only the (-) Lock and (-) Unlock outputs from the scytek precision 500 alarm hardwired to the indicated wires on the bypass module.   Did Step 6 of the vehicle programming work properly?

And yes, you could use relays and resistors ( or a DEI 451M module ) to wire directly to the one-wire door lock system but I don't believe that will control the factory alarm ( if equipped ).

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Soldering is fun!

Hey no worries about the link i really appreciate your help. As for the wiring it appears to be the same. I reprogrammed the module and it does the same thing the doors will not lock or unlock. I am wondering if maybe i should have wired the door locks differently. here is what the install guide says.

pin 1 VIOLET: Lock and unlock common inputpin 2 BROWN: Unlock Normally Closedpin 3 BLUE:Unlock Outputpin 4 WHITE: Lock Normally Closedpin 5 GREEN: Lock Outputpin 6 N.APlug-in Connectors

what do you think?

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spartacus12

It would appear that the SkyTek R/S has built in lock relays.  Pin 1 supplies the source output polarity.  The bypass module
wants to see a (-) signal so Pin 1 is connected to Chassis Ground.   The wiring listed below should make the locks work.

pin 1 VIOLET: Lock and unlock common input pin        Connect to Chassis Ground
pin 2 BROWN: Unlock Normally Closed          not used - insulate
pin 3 BLUE:Unlock Output      to bypass Blue/Black Unlock/DisArm Input
pin 4 WHITE: Lock Normally Closed    not used - insulate
pin 5 GREEN: Lock Output     to bypass GREEN/ Black Lock/Arm Input
pin 6 N.APlug-in Connectors   not used

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the info that took care of the locking and unlocking but it is only locking and unlocking the drivers side of the van? do you think this could be a programming issue?

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spartacus12

Strange symptoms.  I've never seen that before with the CH4 firmware. 

The SkyTek sends the lock & unlock signals to the bypass module.  The bypass module takes those commands and outputs them on the CAN Bus.  For the Unlock, it probably is giving you "progressive unlock", so try doing and second Unlock within 3 seconds of the first to see if the rest of the van unlocks.  The Lock should do all doors and hatch plus set the Factory alarm ( if present ) with one press.

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Soldering is fun!

What colour Skytek wire did you connect to the module?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks keg 37 I tried that but still only the drivers side unlocks. ( driver and sliding door d/s) howie II, I hooked up the green and blue wires to the module and the purple to ground. I've been looking through the install manual online but have not found anything yet.

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spartacus12

Sorry kreg 357 for the misspell. The alarm has a factory set to unlock all doors and it also has a 1 and 3 second pulse setting. I will try to reset to factory setting to see if that works.

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spartacus12

Actually some confusion here, I meant door open trigger NOT locks then I realised that the CAN module should take care of that. The fact that the alarm triggers when you arm it makes me think there's there's a faulty door/hood/tailgate trigger on the vehicle.
As for the locks, try setting the alarm to double pulse. Alternatively try wiring directly from the alarm via the relevant resistors and programming for double pulse unlock.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks howie II I already took care of the trigger problem and will try the programming.   Thanks for the info.

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spartacus12

The double pulse was set on the alarm and that took care of the unlocking as follows: press the unlock and the drivers side unlocks then a second later the passengers unlock. The van makes a faint ping sound when it is turned on. dont know if this is normal or if it is caused by something in the alarm hookup.

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spartacus12

Fuel pump primer? You're outside the vehicle normally you wouldn't hear it from inside.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

this is inside and it sounds like its the alarm. but what does that mean as far as the fuel pump primer?

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spartacus12

No idea. Sorry I'm 5000 miles away and I don't even know what a Town and Country is!

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The ping sound might not be an issue.  On those Mopar mini-vans it's not unusual to get a "Tire Low" message on the instrument panel during key take over, too.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the info everything seems to be working fine.

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spartacus12