2010 highlander hybrid, compustar 6200

Hi All,

Have an existing install of a 2010 Toyota Highlander Hybrid with a Firstech Compustar 6200 and ADS-BLADE-AL. Connected DTD. Also have Compustar Drone installed connected to 6200 DTD. Has been working without issue for some time (years) but now car will only go to ON when remote started and does not actually start (the "Ready" light it the dash does not illuminate as it used to on a normal start). Door locking/unlocking work as before, so definitely communicating with car. BLADE shows slow flashing blue light when remote started (means correctly operating). Basically, everything works but car doesn't start, just goes into ON mode (this is a push start). Stays in ON mode for 15 minutes and turns off - which drains the battery quickly. Drone reports successful remote start, however.

Thought perhaps 6200 went bad or BLADE, but since door locks are working doesn't make sense.

Thanks for the help.

Make sure the brake switch wire is receiving +12v at the beginning of a remote start.

Thanks for the suggestion. I don't recall a brake wire input. All communication is via the CANBUS. The only connections besides power and ground to the 6200 are the green ignition wire via a diode. All other connections are via the blade connector (CANH, CANL, STS, ignition - on the other side of the diode, and STSW - starter switch wire). The ignition and STSW connect at the body ECU and the CANH and CANL connect at the OBDII port. The BLADE manual specifically says not to connect any other wires.

I do use the pink slave trigger wire on the 6200 with a 4 pulse sequence to allow remote start using the lock button on the dongle in case I don't want to use the Drone. That is the only other input to the 6200.

This has all worked flawlessly for a couple of years and suddenly stopped.

I went through iDatalink's install guide #10347 type 3 diagram and there is wiring to the brake switch. A push-to-start vehicle won't start without stepping on the brake.

Forget the last post, your using the DL firmware which does does transponder bypass/remote start.

Verify your STSW wire is connected and outputting +12v at the beginning stage of a remote start.

Thanks, Catback.

I'm not picking up the +12V from STSW, unless it's too fast to register on my meter. Checked the connection and it seems solid. Wonder if there is something messed up with the connector to the ECU. It's hard to reach and I wonder if I've loosened the wire too much in the connector. Since the car still starts using the push button, I would think the wire is still making contact to the ECU. Not sure what else to try at this point.

e_sully wrote:

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I'm not picking up the +12V from STSW, unless it's too fast to register on my meter.

I wonder if I've loosened the wire too much in the connector.

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An LED test light can be a wonderful thing, as can a quality meter or scope.

Say what? How did you attach the WHITE/ black stsw output wire?

Oh CB I was just trying to write LED tester, MAC 120 and wonder whether loose in connector meant Scotchloks.
If someone uses them one does wonder about the overall installation job.
I've come round to thinking that if they don't care enough to use them do we care enough to advise them?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The LED tester is a good idea. I use a DMM, but not a very expensive model. By loose connector, I did not mean the connection I made (and I didn't use a Scotch Lock), I meant I might have tugged on the STSW wire going into the molex (?) connector on the factory harness and pulled the pin out slightly from the factory plug. Just a guess.

There is very little slack on this cable even when it is unplugged from the ECU and it is high up so was a difficult connection (at least for me). I'll recheck all connections again and see if that fixes it.

Thanks for the help.

All seems to be working now. I made sure the wires were well seated in the factory connector. Not sure if it was really loose, but it seems to have had an effect. In any event, everything is now fully functional as before. Thanks.

Note for the future, nearly all Japanese brands are very critical of connector position, I always push home hard then do the "tug" test. BTW had the same pin problem on a Ford Fiesta, also apologise for that assumption you were using Scotchloks.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

No worries, Howie. I appreciate the help.