2006 Chevy Express, Viper 5204v

Ok so i installed this thing on my own. I do HVAC by trade so im already pretty accustomed to wiring. Im a lot more familiar with car audio than with car alarms.
I have 3 questions.

1. How the hell do i hook up the parking lights? I have the white and white with brown and i cant figure how to hook it up. Which seems funny to me that I hook up this entire alarm with relays and all and i cant figure out how to get the parking lights hooked up. lulz I read where "if you have a multiplex." Idk if i have multiplex. lol

2. Well i have an issue with remote start. It starts and dies immediately. And i cant see what fault its throwing cause the parking lights arent hooked up.

3. My truck is utility body and i wanted the shock sensor to go off if someone messes with the back of the truck and no matter how sensitive i go it wont go off. Right now i have it zipped to steel. I guess ima try to zip it to some wires? So itll move easier?
Cause now i can open doors, get in the back the truck and it wont go fof. Itll basically only go off if i kick the front tire pretty hard.

Should it be attached to steel or to some wires? Also if that doesnt work are there like more sensitive shock sensors i can get? Cause the back doors on my truck have no sensors and i need them protected too.

Oh and 1 more in the wrong section for the heck of it. I have a kenwood dpx500bt in the same truck and it will drop the left speaker for a couple seconds and then come back. Just throw that out and see if anyone knows that here.

12volts      RED / black (40A)      +      ignition harness
Starter      yellow      +      ignition harness
Second Starter      N/A           
Ignition      pink      +      ignition harness
Second Ignition      white      +      ignition harness
Third Ignition      N/A           
Accessory      orange      +      ignition harness
Second Accessory      brown      +      ignition harness
Keysense      lt. green      -      ignition harness
Power Lock      lt. blue      -      driver kick or BCM, lt. blue plug, pin B5
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the passenger side dash, behind the knee bolster.
Power Unlock      white (all doors); lt. green (driver door only)      -      driver kick or BCM, lt. blue plug, pin B10; gray plug, pin A7
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the passenger side dash, behind the knee bolster.
Lock Motor      gray      5 wire      driver kick, door harness
Unlock Motor      tan      5 wire      driver kick, door harness
Parking Lights+      brown      +      fuse box under driver seat, black 68 pin plug, pin E1
Parking Lights-      BROWN / white      -      headlight switch or BCM, brown plug, pin B2
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the passenger side dash, behind the knee bolster.
Hazards      white      -      hazard switch or BCM, gray plug, pin A5
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the passenger side dash, behind the knee bolster.
Turn Signal(L)      lt. blue/white      +      turn signal switch
Turn Signal(R)      dk. blue/white      +      turn signal switch
Reverse Light      lt. green      +      BCM, black plug, pin F
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the passenger side dash, behind the knee bolster.
Door Trigger      tan      -      driver kick or BCM, lt. blue plug, pin B4
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the passenger side dash, behind the knee bolster.
Dome Supervision      gray/black or dk. blue/white      +      BCM, black plug, pin E
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the passenger side dash, behind the knee bolster.
Trunk/Hatch Pin      same as right front door trigger           
Hood Pin      N/A           
Trunk/Hatch Release      lt. blue (unlock rear cargo door only)      -      BCM, gray plug, pin A8
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the passenger side dash, behind the knee bolster.
Power Sliding Door      lt. blue (F), lt. grn (R) (left side access panel)      -      BCM, purple plug, pins B8 and B7
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the passenger side dash, behind the knee bolster.
Factory Alarm Arm      N/A           
Factory Alarm Disarm      N/A           
Disarm No Unlock      N/A           
Tachometer      white (4.3L), purple (4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L)      ac      PCM on driver fender, green plug, pin 26
Notes: On diesel models, the tach wire is dk. blue/white at the ECM on driver fender, black 96 pin plug, pin 56.
Wait to start      dk. blue      -      instr cluster or ECM on driver fender, black 58 pin plug, pin 16
Brake Wire      white      +      brake switch
Parking Brake      lt. blue      -      parking brake switch BCM, lt. blue plug, pin A7
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the passenger side dash, behind the knee bolster.
Horn Trigger      tan      -      horn switch or BCM, gray plug, pin B9
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the passenger side dash, behind the knee bolster.
Memory Seat 1      N/A           
Memory Seat 2      N/A           
Memory Seat 3      N/A           

Interface Module:     Category:
Combo Interface     Required:
No     Type:
Data Bus
Part #: 1700G
Alternate Part1 #: 457GW
Notes: Can use the 1700G or 457GW to bypass the Passlock II, but it will not control the door locks on this model year.
Interface Module:     Category:
Immobilizer Bypass     Required:
Yes     Type:
Passlock II
Part #: GMBP
Alternate Part1 #: PLJX
Alternate Part2 #: 556LW
Alternate Part3 #: 555LW
Alternate Part4 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part5 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes: Standard on all models. The Passlock II wire colors are yellow, tan, and ORANGE / white (not used).

You only need the white parking light wire, WHITE/ brown is for when you have to cut the parking light wire and keep power from going towards the switch/control.

Are you using a bypass? How are you addressing the Passlock II? Is the tachometer hooked up? Have you learned the tach?

There is a small door on the top of the brain. Inside of it should be a fuse that needs to be installed according the how the parking light output. Either (-) or (+). It has to match which wire you have connected to. You should be using the H1/5 White.

What bypass are you using?

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Ref. above by-pass or tach issue.
Shock sensor won't help.
You need a single or dual zone proximity detector mounted in the rear.
Door pins to the rear or is this a pickup?
If so again the prox but mounted in a waterproofed plastic enclosure.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Um no bypass. I know my year says its sposed to but its a base model work van. Even when i did the stereo i was told i needed a lil door chime deal and when i got the head unit out all those extra wires i paid $80 for werent even back there.

If there as issue with bypass it would still crank? But again when i had the keys copied they said there was no chip.


No tach wire. did the virtual tach thing. Ive set it and reset it multiple times. But since i got no parking lights i got no fault code.


Its a box truck with a utility back. So tool doors on the side. How does proxy sensor hook up?

For the parking light i was only using the white wire. Going to brown white. Set up for +. So then i need to set it to -? Idk if i was mistaken but i thought i tested that and it threw +.

Make sure that on plug H3 the red, RED / white and RED / black all go to a 12v+ constant source.
Have you connect green and purple on H3 to the starter wire the right way round, cut starter wire, green to key side and purple to motor side?
Soldered joints?
Forget prox, you need to mount pin switches in the door returns.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Make sure that on plug H3 the red, RED / white and RED / black all go to a 12v+ constant source.
Have you connect green and purple on H3 to the starter wire the right way round, cut starter wire, green to key side and purple to motor side?
Soldered joints?
Forget prox, you need to mount pin switches in the door returns.

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Yea. The starer wire i have butt connectors. And theyre the right way. Most of it is soldered but i still have a couple that arent soldered cause i wanted to make sure everything works first.

It cranks and starts it just shuts down right after it starts.


Man pin switches? lol I have 7 doors back there. I was trying to avoid all that wiring. I just want it to go off if someone moves the back of the truck around.

Would a proxy sensor plug into the same place as the shock sensor? Would i remove the shock sensor or have both?


Oh And im not sure cause it will only crank start and shut down. But im getting radio and a/c on remote start but the fan doesnt actually blow.
Do i wire the accessory orange to both of the vehicle accessories? Or can i set this pink/black wire to accessory 2 and hook it up to the vehicles accessory 2?

Does your door chime work when you leave the lights on and/or the key in the ignition and open the door?

Yes, the vehicle will crank. Passkey II is not a chipped/transponder key system. It's a classic VATS/Passkey I system with the resistor integrated into the ignition rather than on the key itself. You'll likely notice a security light on the dash during bulb self-test. If the Passkey II isn't bypassed and you don't use a legitimate key in the ignition but just hotwire it, the engine will start and then shutoff.

If the vehicle doesn't stay running until the remote start shuts it off then it will not learn the virtual tach.

If you want to have the alarm protecting the utility doors then you need to put a door pin or other switch on those doors.

If your going to use the BROWN / white wire then change the polarity of the parking light wire as indicated in the manual (or in an above post). It goes without saying test before making connections, wrong assumptions is the easiest way to let the magic smoke out and getting that stuff back in is a b*tch.

Howie, the vehicle cranks/turns-over.

Pin switches are the only reliable answer. Yes I've done a full size Winnie so knuckle down and away you go. Otherwise you'd need a prox in each box. Very expensive and unreliable.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

catback wrote:

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Does your door chime work when you leave the lights on and/or the key in the ignition and open the door?

Yes, the vehicle will crank. Passkey II is not a chipped/transponder key system. It's a classic VATS/Passkey I system with the resistor integrated into the ignition rather than on the key itself. You'll likely notice a security light on the dash during bulb self-test. If the Passkey II isn't bypassed and you don't use a legitimate key in the ignition but just hotwire it, the engine will start and then shutoff.

If the vehicle doesn't stay running until the remote start shuts it off then it will not learn the virtual tach.

If you want to have the alarm protecting the utility doors then you need to put a door pin or other switch on those doors.

If your going to use the BROWN / white wire then change the polarity of the parking light wire as indicated in the manual (or in an above post). It goes without saying test before making connections, wrong assumptions is the easiest way to let the magic smoke out and getting that stuff back in is a b*tch.

Howie, the vehicle cranks/turns-over.

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Word.

Yea the door chime works.

Naw i was using the white wire on teh alarm and was going to the BROWN / white wire on the truck. The WHITE/ brown wire on the alarm i had unused.

How much is a bypass and what one should i get? I mean idk if i will i had bought this to put in my personal truck and it sat in my house a couple months then i ended up getting a work truck and putting it in there. I really only need the alarm and keyless entry but i figure if remote start is on there I may as well use it. But if its too involved ill probably say fudge it. More importantly i need to wire up pin switches on all these doors.

How does that go down? Since i have you here. Do all the pin switches just get wired together with door pins or would i have to wire them somewhere else?


The side doors have a sliding lock with a pad lock on them to lock all 3 doors on each side. which i plan to add heavy duty actuators at a later date. But for now the back door,its a double door. Is there an after market part/actuator kit for those to be lockable? Or do i just get actuators and custom make myself a bracket for them? Was figuring 2 actuators, 1 top and 1 bottom and make myself up some sorta bracket and pin. Ive not been able to find any sorta kit like that. Just curious if such a thing exists or i just gotta make some stuff up?

oh crap yea i might have the polarity backwards on the parking light. wow thats really stupid. I thought i had even double checked that.

So then just to double check with one of you. I want the white wire of the alarm going to BROWN / white of the truck and to be set as -.

Correct.  The Viper White Parking Light Output wire goes to the Express Van (-) BROWN / White Parking Light wire.
Triple check to ensure that the Viper internal jumper fuse is set to (-).

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Soldering is fun!

Sorry Catback,never met the original resistor based system.
As for the pin switches, series or parallel, makes no difference, whatever's easier for you then hook them into the alarm's blue wire.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

cool parking lights are working. thx for the info guys.

1 last question. You were saying a bypass. Im looking up a box with a ton of wires on it. Isnt the passlockII just resistor based so if I busted open the ignition and found that could i not text the resistance and just put an inline resistor?

Yes, you could do a permanent bypass using just a resistor but the link below shows you how to do as a bypass
used in conjunction with your remote start system.  The Factory ignition immobilizer will remain functional.
  https://documents.audiovox.com/700054.pdf

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Soldering is fun!