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2012 mazda 6 can bus sleep?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137192
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 1:36 AM


Topic: 2012 mazda 6 can bus sleep?

Posted By: cz0f822
Subject: 2012 mazda 6 can bus sleep?
Date Posted: September 02, 2014 at 10:45 AM

Car: 2012 Mazda 6 (Without Push-To-Start)
Alarm / Remote Start: Viper 5706V
Bypass / D2D Module: DBALL2
Flash Kit: XLOADER2

I finished installing the 5706V in my Mazda yesterday, everything was working fine. This morning I went out, hit unlock on the Viper key fob and it appeared to go through it's motions but the doors did not unlock. I still had the Mazda key fob so I hit unlock on it, the doors unlocked fine, I hit unlock on the Viper key fob again and the doors unlocked like they should have the first time. It's almost like the system needed "woke up"? The system is wired in D2D mode, with connections being made at the back of the OBD plug and the door lock MUX wire at the BCM. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.



Replies:

Posted By: cz0f822
Date Posted: September 03, 2014 at 8:14 AM
The same issue occurred this morning. This time I used the key to unlock the door and immediately the Viper keyfob began controlling the door locks. Certainly appears that the bus is sleeping or the DBALL2 is going to sleep. Unfortunately it's under the dash so I can't see the lights from outside the car and it takes quite a while for it to go to sleep. If no other suggestions are given I can try setting up a mirror so I can see up there the next time this happens. Is there any other program option to send a "wake up" pulse or something? Thanks.




Posted By: wirewise
Date Posted: September 03, 2014 at 8:38 AM
I haven't done a 2012 Mazda 6, but it sounds like the BCM is going to sleep. Did you connect to the factory arm/disarm lead?

Factory Alarm Arm     black (driver door key lock)     -1000 ohms     BCM in driver kick, white 16 pin plug (6), pin 14
Factory Alarm Disarm     (same as factory alarm arm)     double -

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~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!




Posted By: cz0f822
Date Posted: September 03, 2014 at 8:54 AM
I did not.. the documentation for the DBALL2 in my application shows that it should handle the Arm / Disarm of the Factory Security so I didn't hook any of that up. If there aren't any other suggestions I can certainly give that a try.




Posted By: wirewise
Date Posted: September 03, 2014 at 9:22 AM
Did you program the "OEM alarm disarm output" for two pulses? By default it is set to one pulse.

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~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!




Posted By: cz0f822
Date Posted: September 03, 2014 at 9:30 AM
No I did not change that option. Does that setting apply to the D2D connection to the DBALL2 also? I understood I'd need to change that if I wired the OEM Arm / Disarm directly to the Viper unit but does this programming change in the Viper unit affect how the DBALL2 behaves also? If there is a programming option to set OEM disarm to two pulses in the DBALL2 I haven't seen that in the documentation anywhere.

I guess it wouldn't hurt anything to try though. I'll give it a shot in a little bit and report back.

Thanks




Posted By: wirewise
Date Posted: September 03, 2014 at 9:33 AM
Not sure if it applies to D2D or not, but worth a shot. There is also an option to set the disarm output before unlock. The default setting is with unlock.

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~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!




Posted By: cz0f822
Date Posted: September 03, 2014 at 11:43 AM
I have made both of these programming changes:

Convenience (Menu 2)
OEM Alarm Disarm Output (Item 7) = Before Unlock (Option 2)
OEM Alarm Disarm Pulses (Item 8) = 2 (Option 2)

I will report back in a few hours once the BCM has had a chance to go back to sleep.

Thanks.




Posted By: cz0f822
Date Posted: September 03, 2014 at 2:02 PM
Same issue occurs after the programming changes. I have also opened a ticket with Directed on this issue.. but have yet to hear anything. If there are no other suggestions I will bypass the DBALL2 for OEM Arm / Disarm and wire it directly to the Viper unit.

Thanks




Posted By: wirewise
Date Posted: September 03, 2014 at 2:14 PM
If it is the BCM going to sleep, which it sounds like it is, you could try pulsing the door trigger during disarm. As I said earlier, I've yet to do one of these, so just thinking out loud, but it won't hurt to try.

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~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!




Posted By: cz0f822
Date Posted: September 03, 2014 at 4:36 PM
I may give that a try also. Thanks for your assistance. I finally heard back from Directed and, as I expected, they refuse to help people who put revenue in their pockets unless they are "authorized". Which is extremely annoying considering that they sell their product through Amazon (direct to consumers), provide me the hardware and software to flash the product as well as provide the authorization to program the unit (Key2Go). Yet when there is trouble with their product or firmware they throw up the red flag. That's how it goes, I guess. Should have stuck with Crimestopper, at least they support their product.




Posted By: cz0f822
Date Posted: September 04, 2014 at 8:52 AM
Last night I hard wired the OEM Arm / Disarm on the Viper module -- everything worked fine this morning. It goes through quite a routine to wake up (I believe the drivers door also unlocks during the wake up routine) then unlock the doors. I might play with the settings a some more to clean that up but at least it's working now. Thanks again for your help!




Posted By: wirewise
Date Posted: September 05, 2014 at 9:05 AM
You're welcome. Glad you got it working.

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~wirewise~ Verify all wiring with your meter before making any connections!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 05, 2014 at 11:03 AM
Could I point out that DEI don't sell their product through Amazon; it's sold that way through sub-dealers.
Also the instructions are designed to be easily understandable to experienced installers, not the man in the street who dabbles in car audio.
Don't know why I'm defending them, they've just shafted us by restricting us to the 5204 rather than 57 and 59 previously available to us via Europe.
Having said that about 80% of the problems are down to first time installers not reading the instructions properly, not doing basic homework on their vehicle and poor jointing methods such as Scotckloks.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: September 05, 2014 at 11:08 AM
Also the experienced installer knows that the DB-ALL2 doesn't do everything that's written on the can (pardon the pun I couldn't help it!)
I used to discard the H2 plug and loom, now I keep it handy, sometimes no parking brake, hood or tach sense and you have to hard wire.
I always delete the OEM key on flashing yet unless I go W2W it STILL seems to recognise it.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: funkhouse9
Date Posted: January 12, 2015 at 9:18 PM
wirewise wrote:

I haven't done a 2012 Mazda 6, but it sounds like the BCM is going to sleep. Did you connect to the factory arm/disarm lead?

Factory Alarm Arm     black (driver door key lock)     -1000 ohms     BCM in driver kick, white 16 pin plug (6), pin 14
Factory Alarm Disarm     (same as factory alarm arm)     double -


I am experiencing this exact same issue with my 2013 Mazda CX-9 Sport. It doesn't have an alarm installed, so I'm wondering if that same factory alarm arm/disarm scenario would still apply to wake up the BCM. If so, any idea what wires those would be?





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